Cycle Paths in Somerset, Bolt bashing in Brecon and Wildernesses in Wales.

 The unsatisfactory first effort at refurbishing the van roof was much improved by sanding everything back and adding another coat with fresh rollers that still fell apart all too soon as the paint thickened.

 

Thus I left Lower Chapel heading for Priddy on Mendip but stopped en route in the Clydach Gorge to explore the two railway tunnels seen previously.

The field at Priddy was empty as usual and I spent a couple of superb days enjoying some warm sunshine and experimenting with the rigging up of a basic awning for future hot spells.

John the hedgehog rescuer came up from Crediton for the day on his Royal Enfield and met Mark who used to live on site but now has a house in Wells - we discussed the forthcoming volunteering week over at Shepton Mallett - and later I rode over to the Priddy campsite for a few items from the shop which is also used by the village.

Unfortunately on a ride the following day I got caught out by torrential rain which drenched me and even infiltrated my original and 7 years old SatMap rendering it kaput. A quick look on Ebay saw two second hand units available so I placed bids of £150 having recently bought a second unit with the platinum GB card for £340.

Friday saw me packing up and doing a quick shop before heading over to Shepton Mallett where I was planning to join a week's work party helping create part of the Somerset Circle Bike Route. The Greenways and Cycleroutes Charity is building on and adding to the remarkable work achieved by Sustrans in creating the National Cycle Route and indeed the driving force behind much of Sustrans early work is now a hugely motivating and inspiring giant with this new body. John Grimshaw has a wealth of experience in the construction and engineering professions which he applies to these ambitious projects with the enthusiasm and energy of someone half his age.

 

Following the excellent pre arrival instructions I pulled in to Rock Farm and was directed down to the old limestone quarry by Gavin who had generously made his home available for the volunteers to use as a base camp. Passing a remarkable collection of old Land Rovers and other vehicles I parked near to the large marquee that would be our mess tent with a venerable campervan supplementing a camp kitchen in an old railway goods waggon. I met Chris, Claire and Wendy who were on catering duty, a variety of other volunteers and then Caroline Levett who is another dynamic force behind Greenways.

We were given an overview of the plans for the week with work centred on two external sites and Gavin's sheds and workspaces given over to the construction of shuttering for reinforced concrete structures, wooden benches for seating at the cemetery, preparation of over 100 steel sections for the planned pergola and a multitude of other tasks. The following is an article written to thank all those involved and summarises what was most definitely......

An Unforgettable Week

 

When a friend from my caving days suggested the prospect of joining a volunteer week on a cycle path building project in Somerset I thought it would be worth turning up to see what’s what and contacted Caroline from the Greenways and Cycleroutes Charity.

Her prompt reply with meticulous details of the work proposed, accommodation and catering arrangements should have given me an inkling of what lay ahead and I arrived at ‘base camp’ in Shepton Mallett full of anticipation.

The old quarry at Gavin’s remarkable property provided flat ground for a number of tents, camper vans and the all-important catering tent complete with large camp kitchen augmented by Chris and Claire’s venerable camper van. Portaloos and a shower were available plus a variety of working environments including an articulated trailer body and across at the farm a range of sheds and open spaces which over the next week would see various teams of skilled and enthusiastic volunteers construct reinforced concrete abutments for a proposed bridge replacement, create sturdy benches from timbers repurposed from a Dutch harbour, assemble gabion cages for filling at both sites and cut and drill the steel bars and tubes for a planned pergola that would form part of a link up to the cycle path for locals.

Thus my first couple of days were spent preparing the metalwork for Charlotte the welder to assemble with the working days followed by excellent meals created and served by Chris, Claire and the ever reliable Wendy who regularly shot off on her bike to deliver snacks, hot drinks and sandwiches to the two off site teams.

Socialising in the marquee at the end of a long day created a host of memories and new friendships and I became deeply impressed by the commitment and goodwill offered to this and other allied projects around the country from a cohort of people from all walks of life with many years of experience across a wide range of careers and hobbies.

John amused us with his bicycle based steam locomotive complete with sound track, Charles’ cargo ebike looked fit to transport all materials for future projects, David sported a new bandage most days and in the background Caroline was constantly orchestrating a hundred and one tasks to keep the project running from her lair: cunningly disguised as a shepherd’s hut

Once the steels were ready I transferred my energies to the cemetery site where mindful of the sensitivities of the location a team were creating a new pathway around the perimeter using the gabions for support and adding hand crafted wooden benches and steel planters to enhance the already peaceful surroundings. Malcolm’s skill on the digger supplemented the physically demanding work by numerous folk who barrowed stone for the gabions and new walls up a slope that after the regular sharp showers became ever more arduous. Each evening tired, muddy but happy workers returned to base camp for yet more exceptional catering and the donated cider before retiring to tents for well-earned rests. As the wet weather moved away temperatures dropped and frosty mornings were followed by drier working conditions.

Various contacts from the local and national bodies behind schemes such as this from across the country joined us midweek to actually get hands on and one evening enjoy a retrospective slide show given by the true giant behind this and many other projects – John Grimshaw.

As the final profile of the path was reached we were able to install the complex but meticulously measured pergola and stainless steel wires that will one day create a green tunnel for the cyclists thus preserving the privacy of cemetery visitors who will also benefit from five new benches. Visitors were greeted respectfully and encouraged to comment on our work and our efforts seemed to be very much appreciated.

The last work day saw the path finished, the boxes planted up by Lucy, Jane and Debbie whilst the two Petes, David, Tim, Jane and others trued up the steel work before a final tidy up of the site leaving just a stone wall to be finished by Geoff before a final curved bench is installed.

Gavin employed a number of his remarkable collection of vehicles, machines and trailers to supply tools, equipment and materials to the various sites whilst juggling family and working life and kindly donated firewood for the evenings which took the edge off the chill and displaced the midges

People began to head home after a hard week, those heading to York and Cumbria having long journeys and those who had cycled over from Wellington, the Forest of Dean and elsewhere looking to exercise a different set of muscles whilst the final group broke camp on the Sunday.

I departed after a truly memorable week and would just like to record my thanks to all those involved for providing such a rewarding (and exhausting) experience and would encourage anyone to get involved in future stages of this remarkable effort. I only visited the bridge site today so will have missed out much of that team’s efforts but their turn will come in mid-October when a new overbridge is installed on the preparatory work they have undertaken.

I returned to Priddy on the Sunday and passing the Hunters decided to pitch up and cycle back for two very enjoyable pints of farmhouse cider and quite possibly a ham and mushroom pasta dish that set me up well for a doze in the afternoon, unfortunately I missed the deadline for the first Ebay auction!

Monday was spent easing aching bones, pulled muscles and blistered hands before on Tuesday with the van cleaned and the domestics serviced I headed in to Bristol to get some new trainers from GoOutdoors and drop a spare MTB tyre in to Dale who had been kind enough to help us out on the Saturday. He gave me a quick tour of the printers he works at - a remarkable array of highly sophisticated machines and equipment were churning out 2025 calendars, posters, leaflets and books.

I took my spare alternator in for testing to an auto-electricians that I had last used almost 40 years ago whilst living nearby and was told contrary to the opinion of a place in Sheffield that it was in perfect working order leading me to suspect that that place had planned to rip me off with a non existent rebuild....Finally I called at Machine Mart for their largest breaker bar and a replacement 19mm socket as I had sheared one in the quarry whilst trying to free off the rear NS wheel bolts that had defeated a garage in Ireland.

As planned I collected Mandy on time from Bristol Parkway and we stopped briefly at Aust services to walk the bridge before arriving in Lower Chapel where Jan produced a good pork supper and we refreshed our knowledge of the various animal routines. A short break near Abergavenny had secured the second Ebay SatMap for £140 including the all GB 1:50,000 SD card : happy days.

I later discovered we had picked up a nail so I took the tyre back in to Brecon where ATS fitted one of the set of five due to be fitted next week rather than repair a puncture. Penylan's water supply had been off since arrival so we filled up at the Morrison's garage - thanks guys - and then returned to see Jan and Ian off on their trip to Devon. A quick whizz out to Sennybridge garage to get my post work party laundry done gave me a chance to get acquainted with Ian's luxurious and powerful Range Rover before I set to on releasing the wheel bolts that had been a nagging worry for the last few weeks. I'd borrowed a powerful blow torch from Crad and this plus the new bar eventually saw the first of five bolts give way. None had rusty threads as I had greased them all on reassembly a year ago following my annual strip down so I can only assume the shoulders had become tight on the steel rims. Much relieved I then removed all four wheels, checked the pad wear and condition of the calipers and reassembled everything having meticulously cleaned all 20 threads and torqued up the bolts.

I'd used the quarry facilities to cut and drill a replacement steel support bar for the waste tank after that had taken a knock in Ireland so fitted it and then gave the van interior a good clean and sorted out all my tools and equipment following the work party. Finally I used the hand held steam cleaner to refresh the cooker, sink, bathroom, blinds and other surfaces of the van before turning my attention to the engine bay.

On the Friday we nipped over to Crad and Dawn's to get instructions re their chickens and horses before a birthday meal in the Shoemakers and a return to LC during a dramatic thunderstorm.

We were up and away early yesterday for the stunning drive over the Epynnt to Garth, past Beulah and up to Abergwesyn and then over the Devil's Staircase to Tregaron with the van performing well on the steep and twisting roads. Our purpose was to attend the AGM of the Elenydd Wilderness Hostels who have run two former YHA simple hostels for the last couple of decades. Y Talbot Inn provided a comfortable function room for the meeting which also involved members attending by Zoom and we enjoyed learning more about the history, work and issues affecting the charity. Many of their concerns echo those of the Mountain Bothies Association with the ever increasing burden of regulations suited to urban housing being imposed on simple shelters - Fire Regs, Building Control, H&S, Waste Management, Safeguarding and the like all making the work of volunteers and trustees so much harder and removing the simplicity of life that so many visitors to these alternative shelters seek, if only temporarily.

After the meeting we all relocated to one of the hostels - Dolgoch - for a buffet lunch and a chance to have a good look round. I committed to returning in November for a work party weekend but will be unlikely to volunteer as a warden any time soon as their training sessions take place in April when I am usually away.

The return to Sennybridge to check on the animals took us round the superb Llyn Brianne reservoir with Mandy taking the wheel on a mystical evening. All was well at both farms and we have returned to the Sennybridge location for the week with a mixed forecast but plenty of things to do round and about.

 That's it for now...

Pics 'ere.... 

 

Busy Back in The UK.......

Dawn disembarkation at Holyhead was fast and efficient with no customs or border controls so after a speedy run across North Wales, around Manchester and over the slinky Snake Pass I was back in Sheffield for a late breakfast and soon had the van contents unloaded and swapped around. We collected two exchange 3.9kg Calor cylinders, had a spare alternator tested and I made use of the hand held steam cleaner to attack grease and grime around the van's interior that has accumulated over the last 9 months or so. We joined friends for an excellent curry before heading south via the Midlands to arrive at friends in Sennybridge for a good meal at the locally owned Shoemakers with the delightful company of their young grandchild.

A day in Brecon coincided with the colourful Pride march and acccompanying festival  before we pitched up at Lower Chapel for a couple of days with Jan and Ian. As always the farm looked stunning and we took our favourite perch by the Nissen hut and shared excellent pizzas from the Proper Pizza Company in Brecon whilst catching up with their news.

Sunday saw three of us ride across to the craft centre at the old Erwood Station for refreshments accompanied by a local band and on the Monday Mandy and I cycled to Talybont along the canal and then climbed over the Beacons to Merthyr Tydfil, via the Brecon Mountain Railway station cafe at Pontsticill, where I dealt with some finances at the Nationwide branch. We then retraced our steps along the Taff Trail to the station before turning off past the old Neuadd reservoirs and beginning the long ascent of the Gap Road on the hottest day of the year so far. It was slightly cooler with a breeze as we reached the high point and sat down to enjoy the remarkable views north down to Brecon. Mandy did amazingly well as mountain biking isn't really her thing and we were grateful for the loan of Jan's full sus bike to make things slightly easier. The fast descent in to Brecon followed St Mary's lane which was often a thrilling finish for entrants to our much missed Brecon Beast event.

 

We stayed on at Pen y Lan on the Tuesday as the fine weather had allowed hay to be cut and baled and soon had the 40 or so bales stored safely in the barn - Jan had left to see family in Switzerland so was relieved that we were able to pitch in. Thus we drove steadily over to Watchett in North Somerset and found a good space in the town centre car park for the night right alongside the West Somerset Railway arriving in time to enjoy another excellent Indian meal at the Spice Merchant

 

 

A section of collapsed cliff meant that the direct lane to Blue Anchor was closed to cars but we were able to cycle over to Dunster after enjoying the local craft and produce market on the harbour front. We met Greg and Alex at the Luttrell Arms in Dunster, catching up over lunch on their news in the shaded gardens. Back at Watchett we enjoyed an evening pint as a local group performed on the harbour front, had another quiet night and then looked round the art collective before heading to Bridgwater. The pub on the marina was happy for us to leave the van there after eating whilst we cycled along the canal to Taunton for much needed refreshments at a stylish wine bar. By mid evening we were parked up at a favourite place in Priddy high on the Mendip Hills with just a few long termers and a summer archaeology party staying on the well kept field.

 

Friday was a rest day apart from a short ride in to Priddy for some shopping and we prepared the bikes for our planned ride covering the Avon Cycleway. Thus on a sunny Saturday morning we dropped down to Chew Lake to pick up this 80 mile route that took us through back lanes to Saltford, alongside the Avon Valley Railway to the eastern edges of Bristol and then north to Wickwar. The 4 star Devere hotel at Tortworth allowed us to secure the bikes in the gatehouse to what was originally a spectacular country mansion and suggested we took a quieter room at the back away from an ongoing wedding. It was smart, well presented and had good facilities to ease our legs after 50 or so miles after which we ate well in the Atrium restaurant and then watched the wedding fireworks on a perfect evening. 

 Following a substantial breakfast we went to retrieve the bikes but the lad couldn't open the door so maintenance were called out - with the Leyhill open prison right next door I guess there were other options....Dropping back down the hill we were soon back on track and passing through Thornbury to the banks of the River Severn where we turned south, passed under the M4 and then after the rather dismal suburb of Lawrence Weston rode over the Avonmouth Bridge with the river far below and the usual acres and acres of imported vehicles sprawled out around the port. The decline in UK manufacturing is clearly evident and with no doubt many of those vehicles being EVs shipped round from China I again question a policy that increasingly threatens my use and ownership of an economical vehicle made once 22 years ago that facilitates a low power, gas and water  lifestyle.

A hidden road paralleling but beneath the M5 was very enjoyable and led us to the Clevedon Arts Centre for excellent sausage rolls that sustained us over the last few miles. Climbing up Brockley Coombe to Bristol Airport was the least pleasant part of the whole trip as it was a long twisting climb with more than the usual number of idiots racing towards the terminal buildings. Up on the A38 as I indicated right and took up the appropriate position in the filter lane a taxi driver undertook me and then cut right across my path - I'd seen him in my mirror so was able to express my anger in the international sign language understood by all. Quiet lanes back to Chew were followed by the steep climb back to Priddy where the field was empty and we were able to enjoy a relaxing evening after a successful hundred or so miles. 

We then moved over to a friend's drive in Frome after doing laundry in Wells where the coin only antiquated machine jammed up requiring us to summons the reluctant owner. We enjoyed a walk in to the town and ice creams outside the Cheese and Grain. A good forecast set us up for starting the Wiltshire Cycleway which we joined near Longleat - the route passes through the estate and right in front of the main house before heading south towards Shaftesbury passing through idyllic villages with some stunning rural properties and a lovely shop/cafe at Semley where I picked up two bargain T shirts. The Chalke Valley led us to our first night's accommodation at The Queens's Head in Broad Chalke where Theo the manager was happy for us to put the bikes in the very comfortable room. We dined and slept well and had a good breakfast the following morning before setting off to Salisbury where the famous cathedral spire towered above the surrounding countryside.

Heading north we passed through Amesbury and across the rolling Downs which were very different to the previous day before finishing for the day at the Pelican Inn at Froxfield where we had a reasonable room and a good dinner but they weren't offering breakfast. We chatted to a guy in the village restoring an old Morris Minor before reaching Marlborough for a late breakfast in a trendy cafe. The forecast rain arrived but by chance we had a short 26 mile day planned so arrived at the Wiltshire Golf Club near Royal Wooton Bassett who were happy to let us take our room early. There was nowhere to put the bikes so we locked them up under our window and enjoyed a restful afternoon before dinner.The Indian staff were all lovely but obviously worked long hours and reappeared at breakfast time with the same sunny outlook. Malmesbury charmed us with its Abbey and associated tea room and we bought some good deli food from two stalls outside that was enjoyed later before we reached Bradford on Avon. The picturesque town is at a busy junction of roads and has the Kennett and Avon passing through but we were soon on our last leg back to Frome after 180 miles of riding. By chance Pete arrived soon after following an unsuccessful trip up north to get his van fridge fixed by WildAx and later we all moved on to Priddy once more for the weekend. We had called at Cheddar to do more laundry and were surprised at the car cruising scene that occupied the Gorge as we passed by - quite intimidating.

Dale arrived on the Saturday morning and we drove over for a walk up to Crook's Peak in hot and humid conditions - lunch in the breeze near the summit with panoramic views was followed by a beer down at the Webbington Hotel and later that evening Bill and Sue joined us in the Hunters for a beer and their excellent no nonsense food. Sunday saw three of us doing a loop out across the Mendips, dropping down to Sandford and following the Strawberry Line up to Yatton and then back and round to Axbridge for another break. The long climb back up to Priddy from Draycott did for us all due to the gradient and heat after which Pete headed for home leaving us to enjoy the sunset and later see a few shooting stars as part of the Perseids display.

Monday was a much needed rest day although we still walked in to Priddy and popped down to Harptree briefly to collect two Calor cylinders off Gumtree for friends in Wales that we delivered the following day to Talybont. An overnight in Brecon was enjoyed followed by calling in at the Welsh Rarebit Centre in the Old School, Defynnog : well worth it, before parking at the Tesco's in Ystradgynlais to start the ride down the Swansea Valley, through the waterside developments and round to the Mumbles. Here a large ferris wheel caught my eye and we were soon high above the pier with excellent views across Swansea Bay and across to North Devon. Excellent fish and chips set us up for the ride back after which we moved on to another old favourite : Kidwelly Quay. We checked out the new aire behind the community hall and found the tap but not the black waste point as it was almost dusk. We joined a couple of other vans at the quiet quay and slept well after another busy day.

 

Kidwelly Castle was even better than anticipated with the impressive gatehouse hiding extensive and very accessible walls and towers beyond. The Sustrans route through to Pembrey kept us traffic free and we emerged on to the westerly end of the beach at low tide enabling us to enjoy the vast and deserted sands as we rode east passing a couple of land yachters and then the skeletal timber remains of the SS Paul shipwreck. Burry Port. Llanelli and Trostre were passed before we reached Loughor and then rode home after a memorable day for a quiet night. One young couple were staying in their car which looked a bit harsh and yet again we were very appreciative of the comforts of our modest van.

 

Leaving Kidwelly we found the other facilities - well done the town council for making vanners feel welcome - and then headed off east with the intention of visiting St Fagans. En route we bought a tarp for my awning project and looked in at a bike shop which seemed only to want to sell us ebikes which are not our thing : yet. There was a queue for SF so we decided to return later in the year, stocked up at a Tesco's and felt sorry for the owner of a car that had been hit by a hit and run driver. 

The Whistle Inn at Blaenavon provides basic camping for £10 a night and whilst the site was busy with families there was plenty of room and after a walk down to the ponds we went over for a pint later in what was a very friendly pub. Sunday saw us ride down the Clydach gorge to join the Brecon and Monmouth Canal with a break at the Goytre Wharf and then on to Pontypool. Here we joined the Sustrans route on the old Blaenafon to Pontypool Railway and reached Blaenavon station in time to see the last steam train of the day and support the cafe. Back at the site the weekenders had left so on a cool evening at 1500' ASL we tucked up to watch a film after another great day's ride.

 

Two nights followed in Brecon with a day out taking us via Llanfilo's beautiful church with mediaeval rood screen over to Talgarth where we bought lunchtime snacks at the deli that is now part of the George family butchers. Brian was there and although it is now 20 years since I was arriving there with pigs and sheep destined for the freezer he recognized me despite the different context. A quiet back road through Pengenffordd crossed the edge of the Black Mountains and dropped us back on the canal at Llangynidr for the return to Brecon.

 

The Hop In was yet again a star venue for an evening with friends before we left for Sheffield the following day dropping the bikes at Lower Chapel en route as I woud be returning that way at the weekend.

A short visit to Sheffield allowed us to sort out the van from previous trips and prepare for future ones as well as see family and friends. We called on Yolande to give her some tips and advice in preparation for her planned trip back to Portugal where she used to live near Gary at Marvao and I collected the bedliner paint for a project on the van roof.

I called on my brother in Bishop's Castle for a long overdue catch up and then stayed a night with Sue Pope at her site near Llangurrig - it was busy with the BH due so she kindly tucked me away in a spare field and dropped by later for a catch up.

Thus yesterday I arrived at Lower Chapel and spent the day removing trim and sanding the van's fibreglass roof as the lacquer and paint was giving way after 22 years. With everything ready I removed the TV aerial so we could get in to Ian's barn and  I began the painting process.

Unfortunately despite following all the instructions to the letter the end result was not nearly as good as I had hoped : the paint didn't mix well and devoured the recommended foam rollers resulting in a poor finish with numerous imperfections. I hope to get different rollers after the BH and improve the finish but either way at least the surface deterioration will be halted.

 

 

Tomorrow will be a day of bike cleaning and servicing as we intend to tackle the Shropshire Ring before long although there are two farm sits and a Sustrans work party week to fit in during September - full reports in due course.

 Pics here as always....

The Final Few Days ....

A stunning sunset at Lough Cullin led to a good night's sleep and I was away the following morning to climb through the eastern end of the Nephin Beg mountains over the Windy Gap road stopping briefly to explore some old mines before dropping down to Castlebar. Following the shore of Lough Mask through Joyce Country and then just touching Lough Corrib after Cong which was a pretty but busy village I then headed south to Galway Bay and pulled in at Spiddal for the night. Families were enjoying the beach as it was low tide and I found a good spot with a view out west to enjoy the evening.

 

I skirted Galway City itself and headed north to visit the serene ruins of Ross Abbey before moving on to Athenry, a walled town with an interesting museum and solid castle. In the main keep were examples of wood and stone work from the apprentices who are learning with the Office of Public Works - very impressive and boding well for the future of conservation work.

I returned for a quiet night along the Shannon at Meelick Weir and then moved on to the Slieve Bloom mountains as I had enjoyed the mountain biking there so much. I repeated the long ride over to Kinnity and back with a cake and coffee stop at the hotel once more.

A family stayed the night with the parents kipping in the back and the kids in a roof tent with a bat awning for outdoor cooking but although it was an impressive set up I think the midges made it rather uncomfortable for them all.

 

With just over a week left I moved on to the more easterly reaches of the Grand Canal and settled in at Robertstown where vans are welcome and there was easy access to water and bins. A motley collection of boats in various states of decay were moored up, a few were in good order and others were under renovation and seemed to be occupied. Just along the Barrow branch there were more occupied boats and judging by the bits and bobs on the tow path many were there long term. This canal's towpath had a good surface for the most part and I passed through Rathangan to Monasterevin where a trendy bistro provided a decent bite to eat. 

 

 

Back at Robertstown a couple of other vans had pulled in but there was plenty of room for all and I talked with a few of the guys fishing the clear water. Next day I rode west as far as Edenderry that I had reached a few weeks back and then on the Tuesday rode in to Dublin on the Grand Canal, crossed the huge Phoenix Park with its 450 strong herd of fallow deer and then picked up the Royal Canal back as far as Enfield before cutting south back to Robertstown. The 67 miles was very enjoyable although apart from a Greenway in to Dublin from near the M50 much of the towpath was bumpy grass and surprisingly hard work.

A laundry and shopping stop on the way to the Wicklow mountains saw me set up for the final week and I pulled up at the mountain biking trail head at Ballinastoe having crossed the surprisingly wild Wicklows via the Sally Gap and Loch Tay. There was nowhere level enough to stay overnight so I parked a few miles further on at the start of a walk up the Sugar Loaf hill but drizzle and low cloud put me off walking up there. Back at the trailhead next day I set off in drizzle on a twenty mile circuit that felt like a day in Mid Wales and provided yet more well thought out trails which I had to myself.

Johnnie Foxes' pub a few miles north allows vans to overnight and although I enjoyed a quick Guinness they were fully booked for an evening meal as the quirky pub, the highest in Ireland, is popular with coach parties down from Dublin.

 

I fancied taking the train from the seaside resort of Bray south to Arklow so parked alongside the funfair and enjoyed the run along the coast followed by a very good lunch in the town. The return train was quite full so I stood in the doorway for the hour or so return looking out over the Irish sea which I would soon be crossing.

I returned to Robertstown for one more night and walked in to the village where the old hotel dominates the locks and village centre. A coffee bar provided refreshments as a huge barge moored up - it is popular for wedding receptions and the like - and chugs a few miles each way along the canal - the only boat I have actually seen moving. That night my gas ran out so I used my back up camping stove to good effect as I would be taking the bikes off the following day to deal with the loo as well.

The Meath Eco Park west of Dublin was my final base and provided a peaceful night before my trip in to the city centre. I was on hook up to boost the leisure battery which has been doing sterling service, the last EHU being over six weeks ago and dealt with the loo which has easily lasted 3 weeks going solo. A final CG 907 went in as well - as Calor have now reintroduced their 3.9kg  (and there are plenty in Sheffield available)  I will exchange the other 3 in France at the start of my next trip. I spent a few hours using a newly purchased steam cleaner and will get in to all the nooks and crannies of the van, fridge and engine bay once back in Sheffield as after 8 months away everything could do with a good freshen up - it was surprisingly powerful and effective - and addictive......

With closely monitored access and being adults only it was a good place to leave the van and a regular bus in to town ran from the main road a ten minute walk away. £4 each way seemed a bargain for the 50 minute run in to the centre and after walking along the Liffey to see where the Grand Canal meets the docks I decided to hop on the city tour bus - again £20 seemed a good way to see all the main sights from the open top upper floor whilst avoiding the people and traffic at street level. I enjoyed the bird's eye view and actually went round twice before jumping off at Halfpenny Bridge. Lunch in a Turkish cafe was a hot and spicy bargain shared with numerous cultures from around the world - the booming Dublin mostly, but also wider Irish economy, has attracted people from around the world to well paid jobs in IT, pharmaceuticals and the like. However as anywhere some people are left behind and there were a number of beggars and homeless on the street with a larger group of asylum seekers camping out on the canal banks and even in Phoenix Park which is upsetting the locals. 

 

 

 

So after getting the bus back I spent a final rainy evening planning the next couple of months in the UK and have today dropped back in to Dublin before the overnight ferry to Holyhead.

This trip has been a huge success and Ireland's friendly people, varied scenery and welcoming approach to van life have all contributed to this. There is a plan to return for a few weeks in October when the popular Ulster coast will be quieter and we may drop in on the Isle of Man on the way over.

 So for now the extra pics  sit here as ever.

In and Out Of The Irelands

The Singing Inn produced an excellent meal for both of us and we had a quiet night in the carpark on a fresh evening - the following morning as hinted at in reviews there was no one around to return our key to for the 20 euro deposit so we took a loop round Melmore Head and returned to find a chef who could help - it's a daft system as you don't actually need the fob to leave anyway.

Before long we were pulling up at Fanad Head with its lighthouse and old coastguard buildings standing on rugged cliffs with stupendous views. A virtual reality experience was very well done (so much so we did it again) and told the story of the wrecked HMS Saldanha which pre-empted the construction of the lighthouse overlooking the entrance to Lough Swilly. A tour of the lighthouse itself was very enjoyable - the old lighting system has been replaced by automated LEDs that looked far too modest to do the job - a red shaded section of the glass casts a coloured beam over a reef further in to the Lough to warn ships of the danger. The derelict coatguard station was identical to that on Innishmore - a huge concrete structure now falling in to extinction.

 

 

 

 

Further down the coast we stopped to walk down to a magnificent sea arch before pulling up above the Old Pier Stores pub at Portsalon where we enjoyed a drink before walking out past the golf club and on to the strand where a few hardy youngsters were in and quickly out of the water. Some porpoise surfaced a few hundred yards offshore and we returned to the van at sunset and clicked the Eber on for a while.

Down at Rathmullan we had considered catching the 11am ferry but as we were an hour early and it would have cost almost £40 we decided to run down to Letterkenny and back up the east side of Lough Swilly to Buncrana where we intended staying the night. In fact the official aire was by a noisy road, rather full and hemmed in by construction work so we moved on to the far side of town and found a much better spot by the RNLI station. There was plenty of time on a sunny and breezy afternoon to ride up to Dunree Head, the location of a large modern day fort, which we decided merited a longer visit next day so we just stopped for coffee and a cake before taking a back lane towards the inland mountains. We passed a number of posters protesting at a local scandal whereby substandard concrete blocks containing too much mica were failing and causing structural issues in a number of properties - a relatively localised issue I guess but yet another in the long list of substandard construction problems such as RAAC, cladding and dodgy cavity wall installation. So glad to no longer own property.... A tough climb over the Mamore Gap dropped us in to a network of quiet lanes that led out to yet more stunning beaches and a few static caravan sites as this is a popular holiday destination for the people of Northern Ireland. Another steady climb followed by some swooping descents returned us to Buncrana in time to walk in to town along the coast path, past the two castles and over a lovely multi arch bridge to enjoy a memorable Indian meal at the Sherpa Restaurant. 

Our final day together was spent exploring the Dunree Fort more thoroughly before heading out to Mallin Head, a point I had long seen as the final destination for this trip. A side detour to Carrickabraghy Castle was well worth it as in the rocks beyond the ruins a large blowhole roared and whistled and we stopped for a quick lunch looking out over yet another magnificent bay and coastline. Up at a rather blustery Mallin Head we listened to the England match at the Euros and decided we would return here on an Autumn trip to do it justice and see the attractions of the Antrim coast out of season. 

 

Thus we returned to Buncrana but parked just along from the old bridge on a quiet and level space overlooking the river. We walked along the coast and were intrigued by the old Fruit of the Loom factory that has stood empty for 18 years but once provided 3000 jobs for the area, a huge blow at the time. A final meal together of Irish steak and another great trip came to a close leaving only the mundane tasks of van servicing and a visit to the launderette before I dropped Mandy off at Derry Airport - another small and very manageable place. I tucked away nearby until her flight had left and then found a quiet spot up in the Sperrin mountains on a sunny evening. She arrived home safely despite bus replacement services and I began to adjust to soloing once more by diving in to books and maps to plan my last 3 weeks here.

Thus next day I arrived at the Forestry Commission run Gortin Glen Forest Park which had a few good trails to keep me amused and provided a quiet place to stay the night with fresh water available - the gate is locked at 9.30 so there were no disturbances and just one other van for company. Being in Nothern Ireland now we had reverted to mph and sterling and there were bins for rubbish - Eire rarely provides these as people are expected to recycle at home, something of a problem for itinerants like me.

 

The Ulster American Folk Park was another very worthwhile visitor attraction and as I'd arrived just as it opened I had the place largely to myself and enjoyed the various buildings, some original, some relocated and a few purpose built that portrayed the life and hardships faced by the rural populations of Ireland even before the potato blight caused years of famine. The displays then moved on to a reconstruction of life on the sailing ships that carried up to 2 million people across to the New World of North America or even down to the southern hemisphere. The final area of the display spread out over many acres was a reconstruction of the ways things would have been once the new arrivals had settled in and started developing first the east coast and then having crossed the Appalachians through the Cumberland Gap moving on towards the west coast.. It was all very impressive and well worth a visit should you ever be that way and I left after 6 hours to move on to Castle Archdale on Lower Lough Erne where a quiet car park did for me and a young German couple in a very basic van conversion. 

 

 

After a very windy night I walked down to the pier but the choppy conditions meant that renting a boat to visit White Island was not possible. I called in at the campground to see if they had Campingaz which they didn't but I did learn that Calor has now reversed last year's decision and reinstated the 3.9kg cylinders but not as yet in NI. Apparently uproar in the boating community changed their minds so I hope to be able to get my 2 empties, currently stored in Sheffield, back in use again as unusually I plan to be in the UK for almost 5 months after my return.

I drove down to Enniskillen along the shore of Lower Lough Erne and found another hideaway just a couple of miles from the town. A large Belgian van squeezed in and later a UK van rather selfishly parked right across our views over the waters but otherwise it was yet another fabulous place to spend a night and left me plenty of time to visit Enniskillen Castle and its military museums before joining Bryan on the Erne Water Taxi which took us round the island town beneath the castle walls and then out to Devenish Island a couple of miles away. Bryan's knowledge, enthusiasm and humour was infectious and made for a fascinating two hour experience. 

 

The ruins on the island which once housed a thousand people are very much unspoilt and with few other visitors around it was possible to soak up the atmosphere of peace and a sense of history. The joint castle and island ticket also included tea and cake in the cafe to which I added a very decent salad before heading out to the Marble Arch Show Cave where I had booked on a late afternoon tour. I was bumped on to a slightly earlier one and as the water levels in the cave were low enough we were able to take the small electric boat along a section of the underground river before walking a kilometre or so through an impressive array of limestone formations, large chambers and then an unusual section where we walked in a trough through the river bed with our heads at river level. 

 

A large number of steps brought us out to the surface just as the rain began so I was soon off to my overnight park up near Belturbet amongst the complicated maze of waterways, inlets and islands that form Upper Lough Erne.

 

On the Saturday morning I decided to back track to the area of the cave and parked for a tenner courtesy of the local farmer in the field for the start of the Cuilcagh Stairway to Heaven Boardwalk. I donned full waterproofs as there were dark clouds above and there had been two heavy downpours but in fact the day stayed dry as I walked the couple of miles of gravel track to the start of the boardwalk which snaked across the bog before climbing via some steep steps to a look out near the summit of Cuilcagh. Plenty of families were also on the route but small children and unsuitable footwear saw a majority turning back early and whilst the boardwalk was unusual I'm not sure it lived up to expectations and the walk back seemed to take forever. I stayed on the field for the night in glorious solitude with panoramic views.

I moved on to stay in Ballinamore on the Shannon Erne waterway that has extended the navigable amount of river/canal considerably and enjoyed the peaceful setting alongside a lock and weir with the odd river cruiser passing by and an old couple in a huge rusting steel barge mooring up. Loos and showers were available to those in possession of an Irish Waterways Card but the fresh water taps were available to all and sundry. I walked in to the village for a few supplies and noticed that the Poor Scholar pub had a musician in later so returned after tea for a couple of pints and an enjoyable session. It was one of those places that felt good to stay at so yesterday I took the bikes off and just followed my nose over 48 miles of quiet lanes and small hamlets with just the town of Carrick on Shannon being of any size. In one small village I stopped for a smoothie and as I set off noted 3 children manning a small stall of their unwanted toys - presumably hoping to raise some school holiday spending money. It was quite the most touching of encounters as they couldn't agree the price of anything, accepted my offer of 3 euros for a small key ring and then tried to give me a free offer on something else. I gave them some basic business advice and wished them well before covering the last few miles back to the van where I spent a quiet evening. I had noticed that morning that an elderly couple had slept bolt upright sat in their car overnight and was somewhat amazed that they returned mid evening and did the same again - no blankets, window coverings or any sign of comfort...bizarre. 

 

Anyway I departed after filling up with water and have headed west passing through Ballina once more as I want to see the loughs of Galway that we missed by heading up the coast road a few weeks ago. I have a final fortnight here and will return to the excellent mountain bike trails of the Slieve Bloom mountains and then do some more trails south of Dublin before a ferry to Holyhead. Carrick on Shannon earlier had a shop selling the CG 907s at 55 euros and a decent Tesco so I am good to go for this last stage of what has been a superb visit to two most endearing countries. A quiet park up on the sandy shore of Lough Cullin is yet another example of the hundreds of lovely free park ups available and bizarrely being surrounded by young trees and granite boulders along the water's edge feels like the barragem at Povoa e Meadas near Marvao in Portugal.

Further pics sit here.