Tuesday, 23 July 2024

The Final Few Days ....

A stunning sunset at Lough Cullin led to a good night's sleep and I was away the following morning to climb through the eastern end of the Nephin Beg mountains over the Windy Gap road stopping briefly to explore some old mines before dropping down to Castlebar. Following the shore of Lough Mask through Joyce Country and then just touching Lough Corrib after Cong which was a pretty but busy village I then headed south to Galway Bay and pulled in at Spiddal for the night. Families were enjoying the beach as it was low tide and I found a good spot with a view out west to enjoy the evening.

 


I skirted Galway City itself and headed north to visit the serene ruins of Ross Abbey before moving on to Athenry, a walled town with an interesting museum and solid castle. In the main keep were examples of wood and stone work from the apprentices who are learning with the Office of Public Works - very impressive and boding well for the future of conservation work.

I returned for a quiet night along the Shannon at Meelick Weir and then moved on to the Slieve Bloom mountains as I had enjoyed the mountain biking there so much. I repeated the long ride over to Kinnity and back with a cake and coffee stop at the hotel once more.

A family stayed the night with the parents kipping in the back and the kids in a roof tent with a bat awning for outdoor cooking but although it was an impressive set up I think the midges made it rather uncomfortable for them all.


 


With just over a week left I moved on to the more easterly reaches of the Grand Canal and settled in at Robertstown where vans are welcome and there was easy access to water and bins. A motley collection of boats in various states of decay were moored up, a few were in good order and others were under renovation and seemed to be occupied. Just along the Barrow branch there were more occupied boats and judging by the bits and bobs on the tow path many were there long term. This canal's towpath had a good surface for the most part and I passed through Rathangan to Monasterevin where a trendy bistro provided a decent bite to eat. 


 

 

Back at Robertstown a couple of other vans had pulled in but there was plenty of room for all and I talked with a few of the guys fishing the clear water. Next day I rode west as far as Edenderry that I had reached a few weeks back and then on the Tuesday rode in to Dublin on the Grand Canal, crossed the huge Phoenix Park with its 450 strong herd of fallow deer and then picked up the Royal Canal back as far as Enfield before cutting south back to Robertstown. The 67 miles was very enjoyable although apart from a Greenway in to Dublin from near the M50 much of the towpath was bumpy grass and surprisingly hard work.

A laundry and shopping stop on the way to the Wicklow mountains saw me set up for the final week and I pulled up at the mountain biking trail head at Ballinastoe having crossed the surprisingly wild Wicklows via the Sally Gap and Loch Tay. There was nowhere level enough to stay overnight so I parked a few miles further on at the start of a walk up the Sugar Loaf hill but drizzle and low cloud put me off walking up there. Back at the trailhead next day I set off in drizzle on a twenty mile circuit that felt like a day in Mid Wales and provided yet more well thought out trails which I had to myself.

Johnnie Foxes' pub a few miles north allows vans to overnight and although I enjoyed a quick Guinness they were fully booked for an evening meal as the quirky pub, the highest in Ireland, is popular with coach parties down from Dublin.

 

I fancied taking the train from the seaside resort of Bray south to Arklow so parked alongside the funfair and enjoyed the run along the coast followed by a very good lunch in the town. The return train was quite full so I stood in the doorway for the hour or so return looking out over the Irish sea which I would soon be crossing.

I returned to Robertstown for one more night and walked in to the village where the old hotel dominates the locks and village centre. A coffee bar provided refreshments as a huge barge moored up - it is popular for wedding receptions and the like - and chugs a few miles each way along the canal - the only boat I have actually seen moving. That night my gas ran out so I used my back up camping stove to good effect as I would be taking the bikes off the following day to deal with the loo as well.



The Meath Eco Park west of Dublin was my final base and provided a peaceful night before my trip in to the city centre. I was on hook up to boost the leisure battery which has been doing sterling service, the last EHU being over six weeks ago and dealt with the loo which has easily lasted 3 weeks going solo. A final CG 907 went in as well - as Calor have now reintroduced their 3.9kg  (and there are plenty in Sheffield available)  I will exchange the other 3 in France at the start of my next trip. I spent a few hours using a newly purchased steam cleaner and will get in to all the nooks and crannies of the van, fridge and engine bay once back in Sheffield as after 8 months away everything could do with a good freshen up - it was surprisingly powerful and effective - and addictive......

With closely monitored access and being adults only it was a good place to leave the van and a regular bus in to town ran from the main road a ten minute walk away. £4 each way seemed a bargain for the 50 minute run in to the centre and after walking along the Liffey to see where the Grand Canal meets the docks I decided to hop on the city tour bus - again £20 seemed a good way to see all the main sights from the open top upper floor whilst avoiding the people and traffic at street level. I enjoyed the bird's eye view and actually went round twice before jumping off at Halfpenny Bridge. Lunch in a Turkish cafe was a hot and spicy bargain shared with numerous cultures from around the world - the booming Dublin mostly, but also wider Irish economy, has attracted people from around the world to well paid jobs in IT, pharmaceuticals and the like. However as anywhere some people are left behind and there were a number of beggars and homeless on the street with a larger group of asylum seekers camping out on the canal banks and even in Phoenix Park which is upsetting the locals. 

 


 

 


So after getting the bus back I spent a final rainy evening planning the next couple of months in the UK and have today dropped back in to Dublin before the overnight ferry to Holyhead.

This trip has been a huge success and Ireland's friendly people, varied scenery and welcoming approach to van life have all contributed to this. There is a plan to return for a few weeks in October when the popular Ulster coast will be quieter and we may drop in on the Isle of Man on the way over.

 So for now the extra pics  sit here as ever.

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