Dawn disembarkation at Holyhead was fast and efficient with no customs or border controls so after a speedy run across North Wales, around Manchester and over the slinky Snake Pass I was back in Sheffield for a late breakfast and soon had the van contents unloaded and swapped around. We collected two exchange 3.9kg Calor cylinders, had a spare alternator tested and I made use of the hand held steam cleaner to attack grease and grime around the van's interior that has accumulated over the last 9 months or so. We joined friends for an excellent curry before heading south via the Midlands to arrive at friends in Sennybridge for a good meal at the locally owned Shoemakers with the delightful company of their young grandchild.
A day in Brecon coincided with the colourful Pride march and acccompanying festival before we pitched up at Lower Chapel for a couple of days with Jan and Ian. As always the farm looked stunning and we took our favourite perch by the Nissen hut and shared excellent pizzas from the Proper Pizza Company in Brecon whilst catching up with their news.
Sunday saw three of us ride across to the craft centre at the old Erwood Station for refreshments accompanied by a local band and on the Monday Mandy and I cycled to Talybont along the canal and then climbed over the Beacons to Merthyr Tydfil, via the Brecon Mountain Railway station cafe at Pontsticill, where I dealt with some finances at the Nationwide branch. We then retraced our steps along the Taff Trail to the station before turning off past the old Neuadd reservoirs and beginning the long ascent of the Gap Road on the hottest day of the year so far. It was slightly cooler with a breeze as we reached the high point and sat down to enjoy the remarkable views north down to Brecon. Mandy did amazingly well as mountain biking isn't really her thing and we were grateful for the loan of Jan's full sus bike to make things slightly easier. The fast descent in to Brecon followed St Mary's lane which was often a thrilling finish for entrants to our much missed Brecon Beast event.
We stayed on at Pen y Lan on the Tuesday as the fine weather had allowed hay to be cut and baled and soon had the 40 or so bales stored safely in the barn - Jan had left to see family in Switzerland so was relieved that we were able to pitch in. Thus we drove steadily over to Watchett in North Somerset and found a good space in the town centre car park for the night right alongside the West Somerset Railway arriving in time to enjoy another excellent Indian meal at the Spice Merchant
Friday was a rest day apart from a short ride in to Priddy for some shopping and we prepared the bikes for our planned ride covering the Avon Cycleway. Thus on a sunny Saturday morning we dropped down to Chew Lake to pick up this 80 mile route that took us through back lanes to Saltford, alongside the Avon Valley Railway to the eastern edges of Bristol and then north to Wickwar. The 4 star Devere hotel at Tortworth allowed us to secure the bikes in the gatehouse to what was originally a spectacular country mansion and suggested we took a quieter room at the back away from an ongoing wedding. It was smart, well presented and had good facilities to ease our legs after 50 or so miles after which we ate well in the Atrium restaurant and then watched the wedding fireworks on a perfect evening.
Following a substantial breakfast we went to retrieve the bikes but the lad couldn't open the door so maintenance were called out - with the Leyhill open prison right next door I guess there were other options....Dropping back down the hill we were soon back on track and passing through Thornbury to the banks of the River Severn where we turned south, passed under the M4 and then after the rather dismal suburb of Lawrence Weston rode over the Avonmouth Bridge with the river far below and the usual acres and acres of imported vehicles sprawled out around the port. The decline in UK manufacturing is clearly evident and with no doubt many of those vehicles being EVs shipped round from China I again question a policy that increasingly threatens my use and ownership of an economical vehicle made once 22 years ago that facilitates a low power, gas and water lifestyle.
A hidden road paralleling but beneath the M5 was very enjoyable and led us to the Clevedon Arts Centre for excellent sausage rolls that sustained us over the last few miles. Climbing up Brockley Coombe to Bristol Airport was the least pleasant part of the whole trip as it was a long twisting climb with more than the usual number of idiots racing towards the terminal buildings. Up on the A38 as I indicated right and took up the appropriate position in the filter lane a taxi driver undertook me and then cut right across my path - I'd seen him in my mirror so was able to express my anger in the international sign language understood by all. Quiet lanes back to Chew were followed by the steep climb back to Priddy where the field was empty and we were able to enjoy a relaxing evening after a successful hundred or so miles.
We then moved over to a friend's drive in Frome after doing laundry in Wells where the coin only antiquated machine jammed up requiring us to summons the reluctant owner. We enjoyed a walk in to the town and ice creams outside the Cheese and Grain. A good forecast set us up for starting the Wiltshire Cycleway which we joined near Longleat - the route passes through the estate and right in front of the main house before heading south towards Shaftesbury passing through idyllic villages with some stunning rural properties and a lovely shop/cafe at Semley where I picked up two bargain T shirts. The Chalke Valley led us to our first night's accommodation at The Queens's Head in Broad Chalke where Theo the manager was happy for us to put the bikes in the very comfortable room. We dined and slept well and had a good breakfast the following morning before setting off to Salisbury where the famous cathedral spire towered above the surrounding countryside.
Heading north we passed through Amesbury and across the rolling Downs which were very different to the previous day before finishing for the day at the Pelican Inn at Froxfield where we had a reasonable room and a good dinner but they weren't offering breakfast. We chatted to a guy in the village restoring an old Morris Minor before reaching Marlborough for a late breakfast in a trendy cafe. The forecast rain arrived but by chance we had a short 26 mile day planned so arrived at the Wiltshire Golf Club near Royal Wooton Bassett who were happy to let us take our room early. There was nowhere to put the bikes so we locked them up under our window and enjoyed a restful afternoon before dinner.The Indian staff were all lovely but obviously worked long hours and reappeared at breakfast time with the same sunny outlook. Malmesbury charmed us with its Abbey and associated tea room and we bought some good deli food from two stalls outside that was enjoyed later before we reached Bradford on Avon. The picturesque town is at a busy junction of roads and has the Kennett and Avon passing through but we were soon on our last leg back to Frome after 180 miles of riding. By chance Pete arrived soon after following an unsuccessful trip up north to get his van fridge fixed by WildAx and later we all moved on to Priddy once more for the weekend. We had called at Cheddar to do more laundry and were surprised at the car cruising scene that occupied the Gorge as we passed by - quite intimidating.
Dale arrived on the Saturday morning and we drove over for a walk up to Crook's Peak in hot and humid conditions - lunch in the breeze near the summit with panoramic views was followed by a beer down at the Webbington Hotel and later that evening Bill and Sue joined us in the Hunters for a beer and their excellent no nonsense food. Sunday saw three of us doing a loop out across the Mendips, dropping down to Sandford and following the Strawberry Line up to Yatton and then back and round to Axbridge for another break. The long climb back up to Priddy from Draycott did for us all due to the gradient and heat after which Pete headed for home leaving us to enjoy the sunset and later see a few shooting stars as part of the Perseids display.
Monday was a much needed rest day although we still walked in to Priddy and popped down to Harptree briefly to collect two Calor cylinders off Gumtree for friends in Wales that we delivered the following day to Talybont. An overnight in Brecon was enjoyed followed by calling in at the Welsh Rarebit Centre in the Old School, Defynnog : well worth it, before parking at the Tesco's in Ystradgynlais to start the ride down the Swansea Valley, through the waterside developments and round to the Mumbles. Here a large ferris wheel caught my eye and we were soon high above the pier with excellent views across Swansea Bay and across to North Devon. Excellent fish and chips set us up for the ride back after which we moved on to another old favourite : Kidwelly Quay. We checked out the new aire behind the community hall and found the tap but not the black waste point as it was almost dusk. We joined a couple of other vans at the quiet quay and slept well after another busy day.
Kidwelly Castle was even better than anticipated with the impressive gatehouse hiding extensive and very accessible walls and towers beyond. The Sustrans route through to Pembrey kept us traffic free and we emerged on to the westerly end of the beach at low tide enabling us to enjoy the vast and deserted sands as we rode east passing a couple of land yachters and then the skeletal timber remains of the SS Paul shipwreck. Burry Port. Llanelli and Trostre were passed before we reached Loughor and then rode home after a memorable day for a quiet night. One young couple were staying in their car which looked a bit harsh and yet again we were very appreciative of the comforts of our modest van.
Leaving Kidwelly we found the other facilities - well done the town council for making vanners feel welcome - and then headed off east with the intention of visiting St Fagans. En route we bought a tarp for my awning project and looked in at a bike shop which seemed only to want to sell us ebikes which are not our thing : yet. There was a queue for SF so we decided to return later in the year, stocked up at a Tesco's and felt sorry for the owner of a car that had been hit by a hit and run driver.
The Whistle Inn at Blaenavon provides basic camping for £10 a night and whilst the site was busy with families there was plenty of room and after a walk down to the ponds we went over for a pint later in what was a very friendly pub. Sunday saw us ride down the Clydach gorge to join the Brecon and Monmouth Canal with a break at the Goytre Wharf and then on to Pontypool. Here we joined the Sustrans route on the old Blaenafon to Pontypool Railway and reached Blaenavon station in time to see the last steam train of the day and support the cafe. Back at the site the weekenders had left so on a cool evening at 1500' ASL we tucked up to watch a film after another great day's ride.
Two nights followed in Brecon with a day out taking us via Llanfilo's beautiful church with mediaeval rood screen over to Talgarth where we bought lunchtime snacks at the deli that is now part of the George family butchers. Brian was there and although it is now 20 years since I was arriving there with pigs and sheep destined for the freezer he recognized me despite the different context. A quiet back road through Pengenffordd crossed the edge of the Black Mountains and dropped us back on the canal at Llangynidr for the return to Brecon.
The Hop In was yet again a star venue for an evening with friends before we left for Sheffield the following day dropping the bikes at Lower Chapel en route as I woud be returning that way at the weekend.
A short visit to Sheffield allowed us to sort out the van from previous trips and prepare for future ones as well as see family and friends. We called on Yolande to give her some tips and advice in preparation for her planned trip back to Portugal where she used to live near Gary at Marvao and I collected the bedliner paint for a project on the van roof.
I called on my brother in Bishop's Castle for a long overdue catch up and then stayed a night with Sue Pope at her site near Llangurrig - it was busy with the BH due so she kindly tucked me away in a spare field and dropped by later for a catch up.
Thus yesterday I arrived at Lower Chapel and spent the day removing trim and sanding the van's fibreglass roof as the lacquer and paint was giving way after 22 years. With everything ready I removed the TV aerial so we could get in to Ian's barn and I began the painting process.
Unfortunately despite following all the instructions to the letter the end result was not nearly as good as I had hoped : the paint didn't mix well and devoured the recommended foam rollers resulting in a poor finish with numerous imperfections. I hope to get different rollers after the BH and improve the finish but either way at least the surface deterioration will be halted.
Tomorrow will be a day of bike cleaning and servicing as we intend to tackle the Shropshire Ring before long although there are two farm sits and a Sustrans work party week to fit in during September - full reports in due course.
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