BACK IN TO EUROPE AND HEADING EAST

So after 24 hours at Tangier Med we moved through the exit formalities which included passport control, customs who dealt with the vehicle export by cancelling the small white slip of paper issued some 3 months previously and then the whole vehicle scan which involved all occupants and pets exiting their vehicles whilst the truck mounted scanner carefully screened a batch at a time. From there we were directed to one of many lines of vehicles for the final wait, slightly extended by two hours as our orignal vessel had been replaced. Alongside us were dozens of Moroccan Mercedes and Transit vans all carrying huge roof top loads - presumably those many carpets being delivered as well as other goods and produce heading for outlets in Europe. I also think a lot of the vehicles were Moroccans working in Europe and returning home after Ramadam - presumably they send money home regularly but perhaps rarely make the journey as travelling each way would be a significant sum. Late evening our vessel docked and disgorged a comical variety of similarly overloaded vans with roofracks piled high with bikes, sinks, furniture and all manner of goods for onward sale in Morocco. I was surprised they had escaped the attention of the law in Europe but over here they fitted in just fine. One guy's exhaust fell off as he jolted over the ramp but he just jumped out and tucked it inder the roof top netting and carried on his way. A couple of HGVs also disembarked followed by a huge 360 excavator on a special loader before we were finally waved on board after one final police check around 2am. I had given away a gas cylinder and regulator to a group in a van who were very grateful - no point me lugging around an empty one until my next return.

We found our cabin which was huge with a lounge, shower/loo and porthole but it was dated and lacked coffee making facilities or any of the similar touches you might expect. In fairness I think this ship had been drafted in at very short notice and replaced what should have been a modern and luxurious vessel and this became more apparent as our voyage unfolded. We had paid for two super food passes but at breakfast the next moning the choice was very limited and the cashier said we had to pay extra for a paper plate of congealed scrambled egg and drinks. I refused so we sent it back and later consulted the purser at information who said it should have been included - I became very aware of our overall good fortune compared to the Moroccan people we have just spent time with but felt that the ship was not providing the level of service we could reasonably expect. Their queuing and payment systems both at this cafe and the lunch bar were haphazard which again led me to believe that the crew were working an unfamiliar ship. In the shop the girl more or less ignored us and at dinner the staff seemed confused by the two eating options side by side with different menus. Anyway without wishing to go on it was actually a very enjoyable way to reach Italy with two and a half days on board to enjoy the calm Med, warm sunshine and views of the Balearic Islands before a stop for a few hours in Barcelona. A number of motorbikes joined the ship after a few vehicles had left and we enjoyed the view of the much overdue cathedral, two superyachts owned by Arab sheiks and the sight of tourists passing above the ship on a cablecar. We also had phone connectivity for a couple of hours before we headed once more in to the simmering blue Med bound for Genoa. During another exploration of the ship we found all the Moroccan van drivers had set up camp in and around the cinema and reclining chairs as stretching to a cabin would be be beyond their reach - again we should count our blessings.

Genoa was reached on the Thursday morning giving me a couple of days in hand for the Brexit ballet as time aboard doesn't count. It is a busy port with links to Sardinia, Sicily and Corsica amongst others so we threaded between numerous container ships and brightly painted ferries before finally tying up opposite a queue of yet more heaviily overloaded vans heading back to Tangiers.

 

We were soon off and away and had decided to have a quick look round Genoa but the sat nav flagged up an environmental zone ahead so with no knowledge of its limits or implementation decided to head north to our intended stop at Voltaggio with a brief interuption at Compomorone where we withdrew euros, enjoyed a first Italian coffee and replenished the fridge and food cupboards at a small supermarket. We had also stopped at a motorhome workshop to get a replacement water cap but they didn't do gas or our sort of regulator unfortunately.

Voltaggio provided an excellent first night's stay with a walk up in to the hills above the medieval village, coffee and ice cream in a friendly cafe and a walk down to the 12th century bridge. The aire was on the edge of the village by the football pitch and had water available. We slept very well and woke to a couple of guys setting up a spit roast for a whole lamb that would take all day to cook - it was a public holiday and a bike race was due to pass by late morning. We decided to try and catch it so walked back in to the village, decided it was unlikely to fly through the narrow cobbled streets and walked down to the old bridge and on to the main road just in time to see the safety cars and peloton flash by followed by the local police.

 

We decided to move on in to the Apennines in case the lamb roast got busy and after some hair raising encounters with suicidal motorbikers, one in particular jamming on the brakes and compressing his forks as he headed straight towards us, we turned on to minor roads through the hills and climbed to La Piane campsite located above lovely Cerignale. We were greeted by Tracy from Yorkshire who has lived in Italy for 20 years and has run the site for a couple of years with her Italian husband having both previously been welders. She had a lovely mixed accent and parked us up in a spot beside one of the many wooden cabins that she said would be drier ground if the forecast heavy rain materialised. We walked down to Cerignale and then returned to eat at their quirky onsite restauarant and enjoyed some good cooking whilst talking to a German couple.

Next day we did a good walk up in to the hills passing a large well maintained walker's refuge and returning through Cerignale after a short thunderstorm for coffee and cake.

Dropping down to Bobbio the next day after doing our laundry we encountererd more mad bikers but enjoyed the large square, cathedral and impresssive bridge in this attractive little town. Leaving the hills behind we dropped in to the Po valley with its flat arable fields and stayed the night at Farini adjacent to the river where in a very friendly bar in the otherwise closed town we enjoyed snacks and pizzas with our drinks. 

From Monticelli D'Ongina we enjoyed another ride clocking up 45 miles around the embankments above the river and walked in to to the town with its brick built castle and cloistered streets. The following day we rode along the Po and crossed in to Cremona partly in a futile search for gas and stopped at a Decathlon where we bought a small bar bag and gel saddle pad. Back at MDO we walked in for a drink before sleeping well in the aire alongside a couple of other vans. 

Moving on east we stopped at Sala Baganza at an aire next to a sports centre and hooked up to the electricity for a couple of hours as the gas side of our 3 way fridge has packed up - I think the exhaust and flue have collapsed after 20 years so hope to repair or replace when home later in the year.

We cycled up the valley and then turned in to the hills for some steep climbs on a sunny evening before returning to the aire where a huge Swiss van had also arrived. Next day we cycled in to Parma and really enjoyed this very cycle friendly city with its fine buildings, pretty squares and gentle pace. Raw horse meat for lunch was surprisingly good and with no apparent side effects and we cycled home just ten minutes too late to avoid a downpour but soon dried off in the van. We noted in Parma as elsewhere that there are large numbers of beautiful old bikes still in use, many must be approaching 50 years old and were generally kept in very good condition.

From Guastalla we again enjoyed a long ride through the countryside along the Po river which had almost dried up last year and yet saw damaging floods earlier this year. An intricate network of leats, drains, canals and levees has operted in this area since Roman times and it is still a hugely productive area although a fair bit of the arable crop had seen wind damage.

With the weekend approaching we pulled in at Pieve Di Cariano and paid the 20 euros for 3 nights that included power - partly because of the fridge issues and also because yet again, as in Spain Campingaz was proving elusive. We walked in to the village and had a beer at a restaurant busy preparing to serve at least 50 covers and checked out the water and waste point by the council yard for later as the water at our site by the river was apparently not drinkable. Later that evening we were treated to music from a local group down on the pontoon and were very moved by a Dutch couple in a camper who danced gently - she was clearly suffering from some form of dementia but came alive with the music. A little further on a huge American army truck had pulled up and was providing food and drink to the various people who turned up - we enjoyed a beer and a prosecco before joining the music.

Next day after walking in to the village again for bread we enjoyed a few hours relaxing as it was very hot but still fitted in a 25 mile ride that afternoon and had a quiet night with no further entertainment. On the Sunday we set off again on the bikes following a number of cycle tracks along various water courses and discovered beautiful San Beniditto Po with its huge square, large church and cool cloisters. We enjoyed drinks at a small cafe just before it closed and then set off again to find a place for lunch but eventually returned to the same village and stopped at a tiny pizza place run by an old lady. Her pizzas were absolutely delicious and were served in a shady seating area by a girl who spoke excellent English. Back by the river the truck had returned so we walked over for a beer but due to a misunderstanding ended up with a bottle of prosecco instead of a glass so decided to stick it in the fridge and substitute it for a glass of our own wine. The truck finally left around midnight giving us another peaceful night in this lovely area.

 

Monday the 12th of June saw us moving on with a stop at the walled town of Montagnana to Este where the aire was tucked away in a square in the town centre and had free hook up with only the parking to pay for at 1 euro per hour until 6pm. We found a hardware shop for some glue as the mirror glass door runners in the shower had slipped loose - fortunately the falling glass did not break and all was soon well - at 20 years old it's not surprising that some of the van's fixtures and fittings are on the way out but all should easily be resolved in due course. Having been away 7 months and with 2 still to go there is an ever lengthening list of minor jobs and repairs to keep me occupied back in the UK from mid August. Este had a large castle and gardens and made for a good walk round and we moved on the following day to Montselice and Padua with again the odd futile foray in search of gas - fortunately we have two full cylinders in hand and with not using the fridge or cooking much due to the heat I expect it to see me through to Germany in late July.

 

 

We had decided to stop at Noale for one night and arrived at the aire adjacent to the bus station to find a barrier in situ, a quick call to the number on a poster and we were in - as well as being informed that the electric was not working. However we had bought a bag of ice in Este and filled water bottles and a lunchbox so that plus some driving had kept the fridge cold enough. Noale was suggested as being a handy place to get the train to Venice and although we had had no intention of going in in the van this option came as a surprise to us and we decided to give it a go. A quick walk down to the station confirmed train times for the following day and we returned to the van to find a local flag waving group practicing nearby.

 So we were at the station first thing next morning but failed to get the ticket machine to work so Mandy asked in the adjacent bar and they promptly issued two returns for the thirty minute journey. We hadn't really realised that the city was actually connected to the mainland and were delighted to arrive on the edge of this remarkable place and be straight out on to the Grand Canal. Plenty of people were heading out trailing suitcases behind them as we set off to explore deciding just to wander randomly and head for the quieter areas. It really was an amazing place with beautiful buildings, hundreds of bridges, dozens of canals and backwaters and at the outer edges remarkable views across to other islands around the bay. We lunched alongside a side canal and were served by a very friendly Tunisian waiter. Watching the life on the water was fascinating as apart from the passenger ferries and gondolas all the construction materials, hotel and shop supplies, food and drinks etc were being delivered by numerous barges of various sizes all jostling with one another to tie up, move off, load or unload. Inevitably we arrived at St Marks Square which was busy but not rammed and admired the fabulous basilica before seeking out the Bridge of Sighs and then following more paths and bridges around the edges.  Reluctantly after a wonderful day we caught a train back to Noale and just had time to look round the town which was preparing for a medieval festival which I'm sure would be worth returning to another time. Before leaving the next morning we took a look at the huge market that occupied most of the town and then headed off for Treviso pleased that the barrier opened automatically - no one had come for payment and we had been able to fill up with water.

 

The aire at Treviso was on the edge of a tree shaded car park but was itself in full sun so we nipped out for another bag of ice and then explored this lovely town with its narrow streets, a few waterways and several waterwheels. We watched a laid back coypu float down the river, saw a pair of swans with seven cygnets and admired the large fish swimming in the clear water before returning to base. Later that evening we walked in to town again and after following a flow of people along the city wall came across a large event we had seen posters for - basically an Elvis Tribute festival : The King is in Town. All manner of fast food stalls were offering dishes from around the world but with a leaning to the American scene and there were stalls with t-shirts and other merchandise as well as some lovely old American cars and motorbikes. It was a great atmosphere and before long a superb Beatles tribute band - the Beatboys from Spain - were belting out some old favourites. They were very good and kept the crowd entertained for almost two hours leaving us a late night walk back though empty streets. I misread our direction so we ended up with quite a walk back but at least saw parts of this enchanting place we might otherwise have missed.

Passing the oustskits of Trieste we arrived at the parking for Grotta Gigante and booked for the guided tour giving us time to look around the informative museum before as a thunderstorm erupted we began to descend the 500 steps in to a huge underground chamber richly decorated with stalactites, stalagmites, columns and flowstone. It was all on a remarkable scale and the main chamber is high enough to allow two long pendulums that can actually detect slight movements in the earths crust - for example a slight deformation when there is heavy snow on the Alps.

 

Back on the surface we crossed briefly in to Slovenia and then in to Croatia where at the mid point of the Parenzana cycle trail lies the Eco Gecko mini camping at Triban. The friendly if eccentric Michael cycled over to open the gate and we decided to pitch up in shade behind the small facilities block. There were perhaps a dozen pitches in total with a range of nationalities and Michael lived in a caravan/awning combo on the adjacent field as he was also renting out the house. We walked in to the village to check out access to the trail and then retired for a very peaceful night after sitting in the evening cool.

The trail took us along the route of an old narrow gauge line that ran back to Trieste so dropped gently to Izola on the coast passing through a busy campsite where people were lying on the pebbly beach. We found a beach cafe for lunch and a beer before returning round the edge of the salt workings that occupied many acres of enclosed lagoons and climbing past a hotel on a back road to cut off a long loop out thus returning us to Triban after 42 miles.

The trail in the opposite direction the following day was much more rural and passed through a number of cool tunnels and over various viaducts before we reached Livade. Here a restuarant with a shady terrace tempted us to enjoy a good lunch out of the heat before we pushed on and climbed steeply to the hill top village of Montovun. This is arranged on various levels and contains a variety of old buildings surrounded by defensive walls. We pushed the bikes up the last few steep streets and then locked them up to explore further. There were great views across the valley and forested hills beyond and we could well understand local opposition to a proposed golf course and 500 room hotel down below. Drinks on a terraced bar and replenished water bottles saw us fit for the long but steady climb back on a hot afternoon and we made the right decision to deviate slightly to beautiful Groznan which we felt topped Montovun. Ice creams refreshed us before we walked the maze of streets with houses decorated with flowers and painted bicycles - it is an area renowned for truffles but we only stretched to a bag of truffle flavoured crisps as we weren't stopping to eat. Another musical evening was scheduled for later but we still had a few miles to go so set off back along the track to find the campsite almost empty. Chatting to Michael the next day he explained that Croatia is aiming for upmarket tourism and he was only allowed to open as a 3* site which meant providing more facilities than he had planned but he is closed for the winter as visitor numbers drop right off. He had an interesting lineage and life story and I look forward to returning there one day as I plan to return to the Istrian peninsula and further down the Adriatic coast in the off season.

 

En route to Divaca from where we could cycle to the Skocjan Cave we visited a tiny church in the rural village of Hrastovlje which contained stunning centuries old frescoes including one of a macabre line of skeletons dancing as well as depictions of biblical scenes in the various roof vaults and wall niches.

The aire at Divaca was very well organised with power, water and picnic tables but a bit near a busy road. We offloaded the bikes and cycled the 20 minutes over to Skocjan Cave where we just managed to join the 2 o'clock tour. After a walk down a limestone valley we reached the entrance and joined the English speaking tour. Unfortunately photography was not allowed inside the cave which was reached by a long tunnel blasted through the rock so you'll have to Google it for piccies. It was another remarkable place with an almost unbelievable array of karst formations occupying numerous chambers and passages. At the far end there was a choice of routes back to the visitor centre and we chose the longer option which took us through a deep gorge through more caves, past waterfalls and over a bridge before a final massive cave passage brought us back to the surface. After a quick ride home we walked in to the small town for a beer near the station after a quite remarkable day.

The continuing high temeperatures triggered cave fever so we booked a trip to Postojnska cave and drove there the following day - it had an aire and we could have stayed but time was against us so we parked up after some confusion over ticket procedures and walked through to the main visitor centre. This venue was far more developed than the other two with additional attractions available, a host of gift shops and cafes and a large hotel. It was also much busier but we only had an hour until our tour so were soon on our way in. We were directed on to a long train of simple metal carriages and were then taken at quite a speed through 2km of cave passage - quite amazing as other trains were returning on the parallel track, such was the scale of the passage. We all then dismounted and began a long walk through a cave system that defies description in terms of size, content and variety. It was almost unbelivable and despite the huge numbers of people down there the caverns still towered above us in all directions. It was hard to take it all in such was the scale and extent of the place and whilst the trains are questionable it is probably the only way most people would ever see such a remarkable place. We bagged a front seat on the return journey which was perfect as the small engine whizzed us back to the entrance.

Our ticket also included entry to the Prejama Castle a few miles up the valley (but not the parking which is a bit naughty) so we headed off there and were yet again totally absorbed by this cave castle. It had been built to allow for the natural rock features so many of the internal walls were the actual limestone and channels had been cut to gather fresh water for times of siege. In the cave high up behind the main castle a metal shroud had been fabricated round a dripping stal to gather further water and a secret cave tunnel had allowed the occupants to reach local villages to restock if a siege was mounted. Various steps and passages led out to terraces above the valley whilst within the rooms included the kitchens with a cave shaft used as the chimney, the armoury, master bedroom and adjoining chapel, a rather gruesome torture chamber in a deep dark cave, the day rooms and servants quarters. It was another place well worth visisting and topped off a very enjoyable few days in a fascinating area. We moved on to a farm based camping with excellent facilities and pitched up in a recently mown hay field with a few other vans dotted around at Grahovo Lipsenj.

The continuing very hot weather tempted us to stop by a river on a small campsite at Priseki where we hired an inflatable canoe to spend an hour on the river to cool off. The owner Stefan was a really nice guy and had gone to great trouble to provide a smart site with excellent facilities in the field behind his mother's cafe. He'd only been open 2 years but was full of enthusiasm and interested in my suggestion that he should stay open in winter for self contained vans. He explained that the cafe closed at 4 as his mother couldn't find any staff as many Croatians leave for better wages in Germany and beyond. Croatia has only just adopted the euro this year and is hoping for a more stable future so I hope he does OK. In fact it was so nice there that we stayed another day in the shade of adjacent trees and occasionally sitting by the river.

After dealing with the various van services we departed for Zagreb and arrived at a small site on the outskirts having decided against visiting the city as rain was forecast. The owner greeeted us with bread,ham and cheese but was a bit obsessional about lining up the van to his power post. We sat in the shade until in the early evening a dramatic thunderstorm erupted with lightning filling the skies. It eased by bedtime and Saturday dawned bright and sunny for our short drive to Zagreb airport. Another slight confusion about parking was resolved and we soon had Mandy waiting to check in in a couple of hours time. I headed off and was pleased to hear of her safe arrival back in Sheffield later that day.

My travels east continue so until next time the usual piccies sit here ....