Moroccan Finale

 From my eyrie above the Tizi'n Test I headed north passing the Tin Mal mosque where the restoration had made some steady progress. I had thought to stop there but as it was early I carried on down through Ourigane and took the turning west to Amizmiz. Almost immediately I spotted a nice stand of well spaced pine trees used as a picnic area and decided it would suit me very well for a lay up. The shade was welcome as the temperatures approached 40 degrees and I walked up to the small village later on to buy bread and a huge melon. I spent a very relaxing couple of days with shepherds passing, locals stopping to chat and a walk up to the dam of the nearby reservoir.

 

I also headed off to Amizmiz stopping at a font for water but found nowhere nicer above the lake so was back amongst the trees later that day. The following morning a tortoise emerged to enjoy some vegetable scraps before burrowing under the pine mulch to avoid the heat of the day.

On the Monday I tracked Mandy's flight down from Manchester before heading to the airport parking, stopping briefly at a small supermarket for a food top up, filling up with fuel and taking on board water from the car wash. the large empty parking was ideal for awaiting the evening flight and slightly ahead of schedule I walked over to the modern arrivals hall in the evening heat.

We decided to take some exercise and walked in to the local neighbourhood, ducked in to the backstreets and were immediately rewarded with that heady mix of noise, light, smells, vehicles and people all buzzing around the roadside stalls. We stopped in a cafe for drinks to soak it all up before returning to the parking for a good night's rest. I had noticed a number of UK plated cars jotted about on flat and perished tyres - all had long expired MOTs and tax with some having being dumped there for a decade or more. I guess people just fly out and forget low value wrecks but It's surprising that they are just left in situ.

The following day we headed out to Camp Zebra at the Cascades d'Ouzoud and whilst my previous pitch was occupied we took a nice one with plenty of shade and privacy. It was very hot so we stayed put until late afternoon and then walked down to see the falls and take tea on a cafe terrace where the local lads were absorbed in the footie on a large TV.  A sheet was all that was needed overnight and the next day we set off early to walk down to the cave at the confluence stopping at two lovely simple cafes down by the water's edge and returning past the string of shops and stalls on the one side of the gorge. A very relaxed group of monkeys were delightful - even a mother with a small baby was trusting enough to be photographed. The afternoon saw us in the pool again and talking to an amazing Dutch couple who had spent almost 20 years criss crossing the globe in a Land Cruiser camper. On our last evening we walked in to the village again for a delicious dinner half way down the gorge before another very warm night.

 

The natural rock bridge of Imi n'Ifri near Demnate was well worth the walk down and through with a local guy shovelling up the bird droppings in to bags as fertiliser and the worn and exposed steps adding some excitement before we headed east to take R203 towards the Ait Bougumez Valley. This is clearly an area to return to and spend more time in as we passed through numerous small villages with stunning mountains to the south, endless terraced fields and plenty of places to stop overnight.

We eventually passed over the Tizi n Ilisi pass at the snow line before dropping sharply down to Zaouiat Ahansal and pulling in to the Auberge Ahansal where we could park up on a level terrace surrounded by rose bushes. The facilities were excellent and we had a good look round the very beautiful accommodation and decided a meal in the remarkable dining room would be a good choice. A French group were also staying and we enjoyed a very good chicken dinner before a quiet night under starry skies.

 

From here I knew we could cautiously follow the R203 as it became a piste and threaded its way through the craggy mountains to arrive once more, for me, at La Cathedrale where a few Moroccan groups were also staying for the weekend. We parked in shade and set off to walk up to the summit passing a large flock of small black goats being tended by three generations of women. It was a good view back down to the river and van and further along at the summit some lads were set up with food and drinks - one was planning to stay the night for sunset and dawn photographs so had made up a sleeping bag and foam mattress. As we dropped back to the van we decided to give the ladies some coins as they looked pretty impoverished but turned away as I took out my camera where I keep notes stored.

The locals were enjoying themselves around camp fires on our return but it was all quiet by mid evening and we slept well before heading out to the Bin El Ouidane reservoir again. We stopped at the garage for fuel and water and made use of the jet wash to clean the bikes and van - a few lads were kicking a 5l water bottle around and were beyond delighted when on impulse I bought them a football from the garage. Staying out at above the water was as sublime as ever with a lovely sunset and the lights of tiny houses emerging across the water. Our road east towards Imilchil passed through more mountain ranges and after stopping for lunch in a very basic roadside cafe we pulled up at Auberge Tislit pleased to see that the lady in charge was back from her stay in hospital. Unfortunately she said that the lad who had been in charge during her absence had run off with the takings - he was the artist and I had asked him to do me a portrait so was glad not to have paid in advance. As always it was a great place to stay and a couple of other vans turned up with a few spread out across the lake and some Moroccans in tents on the disused campsite - surely a good business opportunity in such a stunning setting....We cycled off down the valley south of Imilchil and reached the end of the tarmac having been joined by an energetic and friendly group of boys on a real mish mash of old bikes. At the final village we got talking to an older guy who said that the valley continued west and would after a four day trek reach the La Cathedrale valley - something we later confirmed on the map - remarkable..... we had a good tajine in the village before,during our final night, the weather turned as forecast and it rained heavily with the temperature falling and to our surprise fresh snow on the higher tops next morning

Our route east towards Boumia took us high up in to the Atlas on a rough road with snow falling - at one point as we waited for a straw lorry to unload a guy asked us for a lift so we took him the 20 miles to Tounfite where he insisted we came to his house for refreshments. He directed us up a narrow side street and across a largely dry riverbed to his simple home where his rather surprised wife soon produced omelette and bread, he'd even nipped out for some fizzy orange juice for us and we felt very honoured to be in their humble home - he had five children and showed us the physics and maths textbooks in Arabic that he was using to study for a baccalaureate.

That night we stayed up amongst the cedar trees of the Middle Atlas - the rough and dusty tracks of recent weeks had taken their toll on the fridge and I think the exhaust flue has failed as the CO alarm kept activating. It will have to wait till I get back in August but still works on 12v when driving or hook up if on site so is not a big issue. The Trumastore water heater was also acting up but removing the second cowl seemed to resolve that for now.

We moved on to Azrou and stopped for a walk round and an excellent lunch in a smart cafe before pulling in to the Camping Amazig we had used before. However with no one around we returned towards town and decided to experience the bizarre Eurocampings set up. A huge and elaborate hotel with Disney style towers, a double gated arched entrance and extensive gardens provided camping up on the higher terraces with an enormous circular tent as a meeting place, elaborate loo facilities and what looked like a spacious owner's house even higher up. There were a few other vans there and we took a spot with hook up near a trio of 6 wheel drive French military style trucks. We walked back down to the hotel itself passing a sorry looking pool with a collapsed boundary wall and were invited in by a friendly guy with seriously deformed legs to look round the main buildings. It was absolutely amazing to be shown huge furnished suites with extravagant bathrooms, endless upholstered seats and benches, a huge but empty basement kitchen and a similarly bereft ballroom. Clearly the place had never opened since being completed a decade ago and would need a lot more spending on light fittings, linen, tableware and catering appliances - none of which seemed about to happen. We were at a loss to explain it all but enjoyed a quiet night overlooking the well tended gardens. 

 

We pulled in to Ifrane which felt very different to other places with clean wide boulevards, smart detached colonial houses and numerous hotels although many of these were empty or in disrepair. The king has his summer palace there and there is a large university but it really felt quite out of place and yet had a large number of tourist coaches stopping by.

A longish drive took us in to the Rif Mountains where at Taounate we turned off in search of a camping spot - the sat nav took us down some very rural tracks and through some tight hamlets with no sign of the correct location so we circled back on to tarmac and then spotted a sign in Arabic only that looked promising. A steep forest track climbed up for a mile or so before emerging above a lake overlooked by a number of Berber tents within a fenced off area. This was clearly Montazyfrane and the friendly gardien Abdelsamallah directed us to park up with the most amazing view. We stayed two nights and did a 30 mile ride round the lake which took in a fair few hills. In Taounate which is draped over several of these we had a fresh orange juice in a cafe where the locals were amazed to see a foreign face.

Back at the camp a group of retired bankers had been having a reunion and meal with a small band playing in the open air and a very happy atmosphere. We were a source of intrigue and plenty of people came over to talk to us whilst a drone hovered overhead. We had arranged to eat in the largest open fronted tent and enjoyed an excellent tagine with the tenderest meat as the sun set.

Moving on north we stopped at Targuist for a phone top up and emerged at the campsite at Kala Iris set above the small fishing port where recent heavy rain had caused a substantial landslide. We walked up the track I had arrived by a few years ago which had been very rough and was now almost impossibly slippery and indeed ended up pushing a local guy in his van that was struggling on an incline. After walking down to the port for a coffee alongside the main gate we watched the various fishing boats leave before dusk and noted the dramatic change in colour of the bay as the local red rivers entered the blue Med.

A showery day saw us ride down to the small bay at Torres de Alcala but we soon sought shelter in a small cafe as a heavy shower passed and decided to cut our losses. It cleared up enough to to ride up to the recently restored towers and as we headed back a large digger and two lorries were making good progress at removing the landslip.

 

A recently married Moroccan couple were in a tent and a German couple occupied a low roof T3 with an awning for extra space but we were grateful for more solid accommodation as heavy rain fell again. A wiry cyclist turned up as well and pitched his small tent in a corner but was away early the next morning. After 3 enjoyable nights we moved on too and headed along the coast road to El Jebha for food and grilled sardines in a coastal cafe. The Park4Night App had listed a small place in Oued Laou which we found tucked away at the end of a sandy track right by the beach. It was simply a parking area with a primitive loo but suited our needs and gave us the opportunity to walk in to the village, pick up the promenade and return via a cafe and for me a barbers for a much needed trim.

It was a lovely simple place to stay and worthy of a return - a Dutch couple in a Land Cruiser camper provided amusement by attempting to shower behind a makeshift shelter and we were pleased that less dust and perhaps some time on hook up had sorted out the water heater issue. The van has performed amazingly over the last 6 months and 7000 miles but I am aware that all the appliances and bathroom mouldings etc are now over 20 years old.

Moving on to Chefchaouen via the swooping coast road included a brief stop at another beach with an opulent well landscaped promenade - at one end the police and local security forces were supervising a group who were being evicted from some makeshift housing - with Ceuta the disputed Spanish enclave only a couple of hours north this may have been to do with managing potential migrants and was thought provoking.

Chefchaouen campsite was fairly empty and we took a pitch overlooking the town with EHU and near a huge French lorry that contained a family of four on a 5 year odyssey to save the planet and spread goodwill, according to their website - donations welcome.....

We walked down in to town noting that the Hotel Atlas was still closed up and enjoyed the familiar sights and sounds of the densely packed alleys in the old centre. From a cafe overlooking one of the squares we watched families enjoying fairground rides before taking the steep path back.The following day we walked down to the springs and took the path up to a mosque with good views across the blue town before dropping down and exploring parts new to both of us.

That night an impressive thunderstorm and torrential rain passed through but the morning dawned bright and sunny so we dropped down once more for a final look round as our departure for Genoa was looming. 

Tetouan was well worth a visit en route to Tanger with a a long bustling souk full of masses of fruit, veg, fresh fish, clothing and shoe shops, metal and woodworking shacks and a twisting mass of busy people. Out at Martil we had a huge salad overlooking the sandy beach and finally turned up at the port with an hour left on our 90 day vehicle insurance. We were a day early for the ferry but have been allowed to stay overnight and are now watching a large number of Italian registered vans lining up for the 55 hour journey to Genoa. Presumably they are importing Moroccan goods as all are hugly overloaded so no doubt customs will be busy.

It has been a fantastic return to to this amazing country and I hope to be back again before long - we have 3 weeks left together to cross Italy and drop in to Slovenia before Mandy returns home and I begin a slow loop home via Hungary, Slovakia and Germany.

All police, customs and vehicle export formalities, including the whole vehicle scanner have been accomplished so : that's it.......

 

More pics here.