Wednesday 5 December 2018

Full English Break --- fast.

A temporary change in the weather put the dampers on Marvao's annual Chestnut Fair with the hill top town shrouded in a thick mist with heavy rain - thus I decided to give it a miss and tucked away in the van with Mia, Gary's dog, dozing contentedly at my feet.
Predictably the very next day it dawned dry and bright and I spent a useful day giving the van a thorough clean and tidy up.
A trip to Portalegre for shopping saw me neatly customise the bike rack round a handy lamp post but with no real damage done it served as an ideal work platform to thoroughly clean and service both bikes before they are stored for three weeks. 

Various old friends from the area dropped by and I made arrangements to catch up properly when I return for the festive period.

My journey to Lisbon was uneventful passing through oak dotted grazing land and as I neared the coast large waterlogged paddy fields were evidence of the local rice cultivation.
The dockside aire in central Lisbon was busier than last time but still uncrowded and on impulse I decided to hop on one of the regular fast boats that link Lisbon with largely residential towns across the Tagus and was soon alighting at Cacilhas. I walked west along the old wharfe passing endless derelict warehousing that will no doubt one day see much needed development heading towards the spectacular Pont de 5 Abril bridge. An external glass lift took me up to Arialva from where I walked to view the dominant feature of the area's skyline the impressive Cristo Rei statue completed in 2013 and at almost 400' high mirroring the perhaps more famous one overlooking Rio de Janeiro.
Back at the van I checked my rucksack for the following day's flight and slept well on a mild night.


Aeroporto Parque's efficient check in soon saw me on the shuttle to Terminal 2 from where an Easy Jet flight left on time - the transit over Spain and the Bay of Biscay and clipping the Brittany coast was under blue skies but as we passed over Cardiff the clouds thickened for our descent to Manchester where the tempertaure of 4 degrees contrasted sharply with the 22 of Lisbon.

A slow train over the Peninnes to Sheffield saw me queuing in the rain for a taxi and then crawling through the rush hour traffic with a friendly taxi driver from Srinagar in Kashmir for company - he was astounded that I had ridden a bike round his home some 30 years ago.



It was lovely to be home and catch up with friends and family before I nipped to the local hospital for a blood test as one before I left had showed a slight anomaly (all fine), obtained a repeat scrip for pills and showed outstanding bravery for a flu jab.

Thus on the Saturday we were packed and ready for off to the Lake District via Skipton where after a walk along the scenic canal we improved the balance sheet of the local Tesco's by a substantial margin.
Lodge 21 was as ever presented in immaculate condition  and we fondly remembered the many years that Mum and Dad had enjoyed here.

A decent day took us over Lingmell and back along the Great Langdale Valley where Penny had arrived for a few days during which we enjoyed spectacular views from Latterbarrow near Wray Castle overlooking Windermere, a good meal in the on site restaurant, expensive drinks and a quiz in the nearby Wainwright's pub and some relaxed swimming in the luxurious pool.
A walk across to the Drunken Duck pub for an excellent lunch took in my grandfather's old home where 50 years ago my brother and I were lucky enough to spend our summer holidays in a 'Blytonesque' idyll.

We called at Ambleside to see the excellent Queen film ' Bohemian Rhapsody' and nose about the shops where everywhere seemed surprisingly quiet.

On the Thursday we enjoyed a prolonged session in the spa including an hour or so in the heated out door pool made all the more enjoyable by occasional heavy showers.

My annual cold had started to clear by the time friends from Bristol arrived on Thursday and Friday saw a memorable walk over to Grasmere and up Easedale Beck , past the tarn and then a stiff climb in very gusty winds and the odd hail shower before dropping to Stickle Tarn and the descent of Dungeon Ghyll.

Saturday's low cloud and rain persuaded us to stick to lower ground so we walked to Chester's at Skelwith Bridge, followed paths and tracks to Tilberthwaite and sought shelter for lunch in the deep quarry at Hodge Close.
The water was cascading down Tilberthwaite Ghyll but as it was a very grey day and dusk was arriving early we decided not to climb higher on the flanks of Wetherlam and returned down the other side to pick up the path back to Little Langdale.

Our evening in the Brittania was initially overshadowed by a large noisy lass who brayed constantly at an adjacdent table before we eventually had a word and back at the lodge an impromptu quiz gently stirred the grey matter.

Sunday saw the Bristol crew  depart before we walked up to view the nearby Burlington slate quarry where in recent years they have been crushing the huge piles of waste slate for use on footpaths and as a weed suppressing layer.

Glorious weather on the Monday gave us the opportunity to enjoy good views as we walked via the Loughrigg caves to Ambleside, along to Waterhead dropping in to Hayes Garden Centre to see their Christmas display and after a coffee in the late afternoon sun returning over Loughrigg to view a property that has been built on the site of a now demolished traditional house. The stylish modern design with a mix of local stone, timber and glass occupies an elevated position with panoramic views but the steep access track on a north facing slope would be a seasonal issue.

Yesterday we returned to Tilberthwaite Ghyll via different paths to more fully appreciate its grandeur but by mid afternoon the fog had descended and we were glad to get back to the cosy lodge before a swim.

So we have a final few days here before returning via York to vist family after which I return to Lisbon a week today until New Year. Then its down to the wilder west coast of Portugal south of Sines before meeting Mandy in Gibraltar in mid January for a return to Morocco.

Piccies of the foregoing appear here.


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