Friday 8 April 2011

Not a bore.

After the peace and quiet of Lincoln NP more of the same was found round at Coffin Bay and Point Avoid which I explored largely by bike. The west coast of the Eyre Peninsula was very quiet with good bush camping available, some remarkable cliff top views at Locks Well and a large sea lion colony at Point Labatt worth the long trek out there. Dolphins at nearby Venus bay were surfing the swell and a night in Acraman Creek NP provided an impressive night sky.
Ceduna marked the last town before the long crossing of the Nullarbor and a couple of hours beyond that Fowler's Bay provided a remote place to bush camp with a new moon joining the stellar array.

The Nullarbor crossing is around 700 miles of mostly flat road across the world's largest limestone outcrop but in detail is surprisingly varied. Whale watching in the right season is available from a lofty viewpoint over the blue seas of the Great Australian Bight and irregular roadhouses provide food, fuel and accommodation for weary travellers.

I turned off north to a remote and abandoned homestead 'Koonalda' where the deserted house, ancient fuel pump and assortment of rusting vehicles spoke volumes about the harshness of the crossing before the route was realigned and resurfaced in the 1970's. Two other couples turned up and we all enjoyed an evening in the former workers quarters in a place steeped in memory.

Back on the road and after the border quarantine inspection a long day ensued with fellow travellers being mostly caravans and large roadtrains that thunder across the empty landscape.

Lunch at a roadhouse and a refuel - expensive at $2 a litre - saw me fit to carry on for a few more hours through an unimaginably remote scenery that was both absorbing and daunting.

Half way along the 'Ninety Mile Straight' - which does what it says on the tin- I stopped in a lay by as driving at or after dusk significantly increases the chance of an encounter with the wildlife.

Norseman has provided the first Internet or mobile signal for 3 days but has little else to offer before I now head down to the coast to enjoy the parks and scenery between Esperance, Albany and round to Perth. Easter approaches so I will head inland that week possibly to Kalgoorlie although that is quite a long loop back but we are unlikely to return that way in the future so it would be worth it.


Photos here locations here and for this post the bonus slides are from Sarah's trek and ride in Peru.

1 comment:

  1. Loved the pics esp the dolphins! And the waves, very beautiful! We are jealous, it looks lovely! Mrs Hen and Mrs Horse X

    ReplyDelete

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