Staying High, Keeping Cool.

I filled up with water as I left the wooded camping area where most people had left the night before and returned to the main road heading generally west towards Eskisehir but turning south before the city in to the large area generally known as the Phyrgian Valley that covers some 2000 square kilometres. 

Dozens of sites relating to that time cover the area and just outside Cukurca I pulled up beneath a stunning temple and tomb carved in to the granite rockface which was just casting a late afternoon shadow that persuaded me to stay the night. The temple contained a number of carved tombs both in the walls and on the floor and adjacent rock faces had other rooms carved in to them. It was a quiet spot and a farmer rumbled past on a rickety tractor whilst later on one of the huge Kangal or Anatolian shepherd dogs came over in search of a snack. They sport a ferocious looking collar studded with spikes as a defence against the wolves they deter going for the throat but he was amiable enough and soon wandered away. After dark a mixed flock of sheep and goats ambled by with bells ringing and the two shepherds using their torches for a good look over the van which must have intrigued them.

After a quiet night with remarkable stars I move on less than ten miles to Yazili where somewhat remarkably the local council provide a park up for camper vans with hook up and all at no charge. Tall cypress trees provided shade as did a couple of open sided picnic shelters so I settled myself in and waited for the afternoon to cool off a bit before walking to the nearby Midas City with a number of superb attractions. A huge rocky outcrop had been carved out both by man and the weather to create a multi level structure of interconnected rooms that would have been the main residence of King Midas. Adjacent was a carved temple facade some 20 x 17m high and beyond that were more carved out rooms and tombs overlooking the village below. Walking on past these structures brought me to a huge underground cistern reached by a long steep flight of carved steps and another carved temple facade - The Unfinished One - which was almost glowing in the evening sun.  Further on again were another three similarly sized cisterns, all carved out by hand, with the same steep staircase access and channels in the surface rock carved out to direct as much of the rainfall as possible in to the storage systems. A steep path led up to the upper plateau where there was a fairly usable 4G connection as well as panoramic views. In the fields below the baled straw was being loaded on to lorries as the cereal harvest was well under way - even the smallest patches had been planted and the combines were of a size suited to these modest fields.

A small cafe on my way back was run by a very friendly woman so I stopped for tea and an ice-cream before returning to the the van and later a long and wonderfully hot shower in an attempt to ease my shoulders which have had a chronic ache and discomfort for months now - no doubt residual issues from my two heavy falls last autumn.

I spent a second day revisiting the rocks and structures and whilst a few Turkish visitors arrived there were no international tourists and I've not seen a foreign camper van in weeks. The large city of Kutahaya is known historically for the production of ceramics and whilst the large modern factories are located on the outskirts there is still a vibrant small scale artisanal scene especially in the old streets around the main mosque. Mixed in with this is a large fruit and vegetable market and the numerous, often dilapidated, wooden houses of the Ottoman Empire which all adds to a timeless scene. Overlooking the city is a substantial fortress which I decided was too much of a climb and after a doze in a shady park I returned to the van parked up on a large and shaded gravel area. The main Izmir road ran south west with a side turning taking me in to sleepy Cavdarhisar which had clearly once been a centre of great significance through many cultures and over many centuries. Two of the four Roman bridges remain and I parked up by one adjacent to a circular stone structure regarded as the oldest Stock Exchange in the world with carved panels listing the standard price for a range of goods and services. Further away across the bridge stands the best preserved temple to Zeus in Turkey which was hugely impressive and surrounded by fallen columns, stunning carvings and the like. Perhaps the most impressive feature was hidden away as beneath the temple floor and accessed by a steep staircase was a huge vault with a curved ceiling.

Back on the surface I walked past the remains of the bath houses where a statue of Hygiena, the goddess of health, had been discovered and then on to another remarkable structure. In fact it was two as this was the location for the only known feature of a combined Roman stadium and theatre but built as separate entities. Time and earthquakes have dislodged much of the tiered seating in both venues but as at other places it was possible to imagine the roar of the sports spectators and the cheers of the theatre goers.

Back at the van I decided to follow the suggestion in P4N and called at the small restaurant hidden away behind the Street of Columns which turned out to be a real gem. Shaded tables in a well kept garden were perfect after a hot couple of hours walking round and I was soon tucking in to an excellent pizza cooked in the simple wood fired oven. However the real attraction was the home made cheesecake which served with fresh blackberries and ice cream was sublime.

A turn off at Gediz saw me climbing steadily to 4,500' where another free campground spread out amongst the pine trees met my every need. Families with tents were scattered about and I parked up on a level patch looking down through the trees. Water points and an electric cabinet nearby confirmed my decision to stay a few nights and after sunset everyone retired to bed in what was a very special place. Most people were cooking on open fires and content to enjoy the peace and quiet, there was the odd camper and 4x4 roof tent set up but also a few small caravans parked up which seemed to be more or less permanently parked there. I walked up to the Terrace Cafe, passing a Youth Leisure Camp set up and enjoyed sublime lamb chops and a view across to distant hills as the sun set all for a very reasonable £7.

Later that evening after I had gone to bed there was some activity outside as a small caravan was manoeuvred alongside but the tow vehicle then drove off and no one seemed to be occupying it.

The elevation and shade kept me cool all day and I returned to the Terrace for another meal before back at the van a couple with two young children had arrived to stay in the newly delivered caravan - presumably they are rented out and he explained that they were to be joined later by friends. He asked if I could move over so they could all be alongside each other which of course I was happy to do and I later fell asleep as they all sat chatting quietly amongst themselves in to the evening.

So today I have moved on to another picnic and camping area north of Simav where a volcanic crater lake provides plenty of room for families to gather. I paid to enter and parked up under the trees but a guy came over later and seemed to want me to move - I didn't really understand and he eventually said via Google Translate that it didn't really matter and buzzed off on his moped. Later walking round the lake I realised that the proper camping area was on the far shore but decided as it was in full sun and had a concentration of tents and families I would stay put as it was just for the one night. The two mile circuit of the lake gave me some much needed exercise and back at the van I was content to watch various family groups enjoying themselves. At one point a group of five young women approached rather shyly to ask where I was from - all had good English and were studying pharmacology at university in Istanbul. They wanted to know where I'd been in Turkey and what I thought and were also interested to see on my Europe map where I am largely based. They had visited a number of countries in Europe last year as part of the Erasmus scheme connected with their studies but of course post Brexit the UK had not been part of the schedule. Anyway they were good company and left with a flurry of waves and smiles and now as most day visitors are heading off a thunderstorm seems to be brewing.

I have a fortnight to cover the remaining 600 miles to Thessaloniki and can enter Greece in ten days time so will head slowly towards Canakkale on the Dardanelles, cross over to the Gallipoli Peninsula and see if I can find a spot on the Aegean Coast for a swim and a sun bathe. This last few weeks across central Turkey has been just what I hoped for, a genuine insight in to the Turkish way of life, some memorable historical sights, stunning natural history and wonderful park ups. The freedom to more or less stop anywhere is refreshing and despite the language barrier I have enjoyed some great interactions with the people i have met who have without fail been polite, friendly, welcoming and where possible helpful. 

More pics sit Here