We headed west via the Woodhead Pass, passed a busy Manchester and then headed on in to Wales stopping in Newtown for a food shop and arriving at Sue Pope's small campsite near Llangurrig for a night before walking in to Nant Rhys bothy on Sunday morning where all was well, as was the Elan Valley bothy later that day. Four uni students from Aberystwyth had stayed the night and whilst it was all rather chaotic I was sure they would leave the place in good order.
Later at Lower Chapel we sorted out the bikes prior to our trip and caught up with Ian and Jan's news from the last year.
On a grey but mild morning the three of us set off to climb up to Upper Chapel, cross the Epynnt via the lonely Drover's Arms and then whizz down in to Garth where Jan left us and looped home via Builth Wells.
We took the turning to Llangammarch Wells and then Beulah with a short break at the church on the way to Abergwesyn. The stunning lonely valley brought us to the foot of the notorious Devil's Staircase which was beyond our ability to ride, partly as my chain was dropping off the larger cog intermittently but mainly because I am far less fit than a year ago. Once at the top it was an exhilarating descent to Nantystalwyn and a mile along their track brought us to the Elenydd Wilderness Trust hostel at Dolgoch.
We had arrived in good time and were made very welcome by the wardens George and Zack who showed us our four berth dorm and said that given another ten minutes the showers would be warm. Unfortunately despite the new solar installation undertaken recently this was not the case as there had been little solar input in recent days so we were soon out and warming up in front of the stove in the common room. The new solar does power much improved lighting, charging points and a fridge and no doubt would provide hot water in the summer months.
We chatted to the wardens, who are familiar with Moel Prysgau bothy a few miles further up the valley and another guest working for NRW on the reintroduction of bog habitats. There was a comprehensive library including some interesting information about the bothies of the area compiled by Tony, our Wales Area MBA Organiser who is a dab hand at researching local archives.
After a comfy night we were soon away on a much brighter day and headed up the Towy track before taking the middle track that avoids several river crossings and looping round the head of the valley before dropping down to Moel Prygsgau where unfortunately some of nature's finest had been at play.
Quad bikes had ripped up the grassy area in front of the building splattering the door, walls and windows with mud and scattering bags of rubbish equally minded neanderthals had tried to burn outside. As ever this is somewhat dispiriting but as we had time to spare we soon had things washed down, the rubbish gathered and sorted and the burnable stuff in the stove. The remaining bag was taken up to the top track for eventual collection by either NRW or Chris and Frank the long time MOs. They had been instrumental in blocking off access from above and down at the confluence a new steel barrier prevented access via the river but lower down the quads had forged a new way in by destroying the bank, crushing the vegetation and leaving a large track in to the bothy. Unfortunately tactically felled trees that would have provided a long term solution were removed in error as part of harvesting during a clear fell two years ago so we need to rethink the issue.
As always it was good to leave the place in better order than when we arrived and we headed out along forestry roads before the sustained descent to Strata Florida Abbey where the information centre was happy to provide hot drinks and for us to eat our sandwiches in the warm. In the newly restored barn of Great Abbey Farm a lovely old local lady full of enthusiasm and local gossip was keen to show us a range of old artefacts, machinery and tools from days gone by - whilst they close at the end of October until the Spring the renovation of the rest of the farm will continue and should in due course become well worth a visit.
After a spell on the road we picked up the cycle track in to Tregaron and arrived at the Talbot Hotel where again we took one of their very well appointed ' Garden Rooms'. After washing off the bikes and storing them in a locked shed we enjoyed hot showers and a rest before dining rather too well.
Wednesday centred on a ride down to Aberystwyth and back via Sustrans Routes 82 & 81 although due to intransigence from a land owner you have to leave the old line for a short steep descent on a busy twisty road before climbing steeply back to the track bed.
This section makes it dangerous for families but otherwise it is a cracking ride and arrives at the harbour entrance from where we headed in to town. I made use of two bank branches that were actually open and borrowed a roll of sellotape to temporarily fix my cycling boot before buying a cheap pair of trainers that might actually get me home. The corner cafe provided warmth and refreshment before we returned to Tregaron after 41 thoroughly enjoyable miles.
Thursday was only a short day so we checked out after a substantial breakfast, left the bikes locked away and enjoyed a look round Tregaron which whilst far less significant than in the heydays of droving is still a lively enough place with a lovely craft centre and excellent home baking at Gwen's Cakes.
The flat road along to Llandewi Brefi lulled us in to a false sense of ability as we then climbed steeply back in to the Cambrian mountains on a sunny afternoon. A long descent brought us to the gate of the Tyn y Cornel hostel where the warden Terry made us very welcome and showed us our accommodation for the night. We had booked their excellent shepherd's hut which was immaculate and set away from the main hostel building. We soon had the underfloor heating on, enjoyed hot showers and then on a blustery late afternoon walked down the track to the Doethie river that then leads on out to Soar y Mynydd Chapel. The onward track has been impressively eroded and is now in places a 10' deep gulley that would defeat any vehicle - repairs carried out a few years ago failed to address the issue of track drainage and unfortunately all the good work has literally been washed away. Back at the hut we had a comfortable night having cooked up a simple ready meal but my cough which had appeared at the start of the trip unfortunately disturbed us, as did the water pump located under the hut which clicked in regularly.
We had a chat with Terry before leaving as he was working in the unlocked shed provided by EVT for walkers and cyclists and I expect to meet him again in early November when I return to Dolgoch for a work party. It was a cold and wet start as we dropped down to the river and began the steep climb on a narrow path above the deep gouge of the damaged track so we were soon warmed up as it levelled out and we were able to pedal onwards. Another steep descent brought us to the Chapel where we stopped briefly before following forestry tracks around the western side of Llyn Brianne passing above Dalarwen which had once been a potential bothy project. We crossed the dam and noticed that the military exercise known as 'Cambrian Patrol' had set up a base above the car park. As we dropped in to Rhandirmyn we could see the extensive scorched hillsides caused by a serious fire in the summer, turned towards the Towy Bridge Inn and then dropped towards Cilycwm. Just before the village at Cwm Rhaedr we met Frank from the MBA and a contact from NRW who was going to show us a new bothy project. As it was raining heavily and we were getting cold we cycled up the final mile and a half, actually getting there first as there was a tree down across the track.
The old Scout hut had been located in an L shaped range of farm buildings and once James from NRW had opened up we had a good look round. The larger building had lovely old signs from the scouting days but would be difficult to scale down to make a cosy bothy, despite an existing if redundant Rayburn. Alongside another building seemed viable but in fact the two smallest ones to the right would be nearer the mark and perhaps provide an initial 'test bothy' requiring minimal input initially and an opportunity to gauge over a year or two the degree to which the building was used and with what level of acceptable behaviour.
Anyway as we were getting cold again we left Frank and James to discuss the project and rode down to Llandovery as the sun came out. We checked our train was on time (always advisable on the HOWL) and retired to the West End Cafe for lunch, hot drinks and a dry out in the sunlit window.
The train passed under the Sugar Loaf Mountain and dropped us off at Garth for our return climb over the Epynnt which initially involves a long climb to the plateau that will form part of next year's Welsh stage of the Tour de France. We pushed most of it so the peloton needn't worry about the competition and eventually reached the turn up to Jan's as dusk arrived. The new water heater is considerably more efficient than the previous one and we were soon showered and changed after a hugely enjoyable 5 day ride.
We spent Saturday helping detach two large branches hung up in a beech tree, kept a bonfire going to tidy things up and whilst Mandy tackled the old tomato plants I gave all 3 bikes a thorough clean, service and lubrication. A meal at the local pub on Saturday night was middle of the road at best and after a leisurely start we were off towards Somerset for the next round of events. We stopped under the old Severn bridge at the former ferry causeway and watched the swirling brown waters head out to the Bristol Channel. At one point the SARA lifeboat was launched but returned soon after as it had been a malicious call out - bothies are not by any means the only recipients of unacceptably antisocial behaviour.
We reached our overnight campsite near Trowbridge, after calling in at Bradford on Avon, by late afternoon and stretched our legs on local lanes before retiring indoors with some of the russet apples from a nearby tree. We'd bought eggs from the farmer and the simple and reasonably priced site had water and waste facilities but no hook up so the Eber kept us warm and cosy.
Monday saw us heading over to Frome where I dropped a deformed rear wheel in at Pronto's bike shop who said they couldn't look at it until Friday. We then met Mandy's sister in law and niece who are touring Europe for five weeks using Interail passes, flights and hire cars. Sonia seemed adept at driving a stick shift RHD car on unfamiliar British roads and Jenny was keen to show us the multitude of places they had visited.
We then returned to BoA and took them to see the magnificent mediaeval tithe barn before walking back along the Kennet and Avon canal and explaining the mysteries of lock workings as neither had seen one before. We thought (correctly) that they would enjoy the high tea served at the Bridge Tearooms. A remarkable spread served elegantly really hit the mark before we all jumped in the hire car (a modern Fiat 500) and drove to Bath where they checked in at the Old Mill Hotel on the Avon.
We then all walked along the K&A Canal in to the centre with Sonia and Jenny amazed by the various live in boats and the views across Bath's Georgian architecture. The shops and buildings on the Pulteney Bridge provided further fascination and I was reminded of the time I nearly came to grief on the eponymous weir whilst kayaking there forty odd years ago. We went our separate ways with S&J hopping in a taxi before we caught the train back to BoA and drove back to our site.
On Tuesday I dropped Mandy off at Trowbridge as she was joining her relatives again for the day whilst I dealt with the van domestics and headed off to check in with Pete at Frome as we were due to help with his 'Missing Link' cyclepath project on Friday which is part of the Somerset Circle. I then moved on to Greg and Alex's new home on the edge of Frome as they moved up from Lynton this summer. It's a lovely cosy cottage with well kept gardens, some useful outbuildings and a paddock for their 3 dogs to roam in and it was good to catch up before I headed to Trowbridge to collect Mandy who had ended up going to Stonehenge for the day.
Wednesday saw me relocating the switch for the gas side of the new Truma so I can switch the hot water on whilst in bed (luxury) whilst Alex and Mandy took the dogs up on to the Ridgeway to see the Westbury White Horse and later we all enjoyed a good Italian meal at Castellos in Frome.
Mandy and I headed off on Thursday and parked up at the White Horse on a sunny day with excellent views. We walked down in to Eddington, admired the beautiful church and then discovered that the excellent Three Daggers pub, farm shop and micro brewery were on the edge of the village. We had called in last year whilst returning from our King Alfred's Way ride so again enjoyed their excellent produce before climbing back up to the Ridgeway. Near the car park are some impressive art installations in the shape of large steel silhouettes representing the various people who live, work or play in the area. I was intrigued as to how the faces appeared equally clearly on both sides of the steel.
We occupied Pete's drive on Thursday night before walking across to the cyclepath project where new fencing is being erected on a strip of land kindly donated by the owner of the adjacent manor. This will allow a new and wider track to be installed once gabions have been constructed and to this end we were charged with assisting to move many tons of stone from the manor's old quarry. A new four wheel drive dumper had been hired in to supplement the project's own rather archaic two wheel drive machine and in pleasant sunshine we loaded each by hand before they chugged off down to the woods. We had a lunch break watching two tree surgeons reduce and remove two pine trees before resuming our efforts with the stone. Greg and Alex dropped by to see what was going on and just as we were packing up the steel mesh for the gabions arrived. Thus a final effort was made to get them on site before we called it a day. Back at the van Mandy showered whilst I walked in town to pick up the wheel which was apparently beyond repair - they hadn't got a replacement in stock but Pete offered to bring over a spare bike for our planned ride over the weekend.
Nick and Bill got in touch to say that Eastwater Farm's small campsite was closed as sadly dear old Dorothy had gone in to care (something I feared would happen as she seemed frail even a year ago). They had tried the CACC site in Priddy who were asking for almost £35 a night even for members so we decided to try the alternative at Ebborways - £20 but no hook up.
Thus we all met up that evening on a largely empty field and gathered in the battle bus for beers and a catch up with the heater on as it was chilly outside. I managed to get my wheel in to a usable shape for the day ahead, a good job as Pete's spare bike seemed to lack a front brake and once Dale had joined us we were zipping down Ebbor Gorge for a cracking day over to Glastonbury, through the Shapwick Heath wetlands and on for a break at the Avalon Marshes Visitor Centre. More flat riding brought us through to Wedmore and eventually busy and tacky Cheddar Village before we started on the climb up the Gorge. We had included a visit to last year's bridge installation which was now fully landscaped and finished off with a 'simplicity bench'. The 3 ebikes zoomed off home whilst Mandy, Bill and I climbed steadily as a succession of motorbikes and cars took away the very tranquility of the place they had come to see.
Three of us rode to the Hunters and were joined by the others for the usual hearty and no frills meals washed down by local ales and ciders before a fast ride back for a comfortable night. My new panel had topped up the LB but Nick's battery is in need of replacement so he had to fire up the engine first thing for pump, light and power. Dale joined us again for a walk via Priddy Pools and eventually over to East Harpreet for a pint before the return which involved the odd road section as there are no footpaths across the Priddy Circles.
Finally we said our goodbyes and headed back to Wales using a section of the newly dualled Heads of the Valleys road to reach Glynneath, turn up the hill, pass the lane to my old place and park up in the Ancient Briton carpark as their campsite is closed for the winter. It was a quiet night, costing £15, refundable if you ate in the pub but food finishes at 4pm on Sundays so we dined well in the van.
After a look round Ystradgynlais we had lunch with our old friends the Pegges, heard most of Tony's jokes for the umpteenth time and then drove to Brecon for yet another social occasion.
We parked out on the promenade where a new drinking water station has been installed but what is really needed is a fresh water tap and waste disposal point as these are lacking across Powys despite it's very reasonable tolerance of camper vans. As the Tour will pass through the town next year and many van owners from the UK and abroad will arrive I think this is something the council should consider and which I might pursue.
As we looked round town I made various appointments for my annual health MOT, called in on Jason at BiPed cycles, bought a new watch for me and then returned to the van to freshen up before joining Crad, Dawn, Mike and Claire at Zeera's for an early but excellent curry and a long overdue catch up.
On Tuesday we dropped some caving gear off at Jan's and then drove back over to Garth where we both caught the train to Shrewsbury on the HOWL. It's a lovely journey and as Mandy departed on her Sheffield bound train I took a walk round the town despite heavy rain. The Abbey was impressive but the poor weather persuaded me to take a comfy chair in the cosy arts centre cafe and sit out the time until my return to Garth.
I stayed overnight in the car park and caught a mid morning train down to Swansea on a much better day that showed off the Welsh countryside to its best. In Swansea I got a flu jab in a walk in pharmacy, enjoyed an Indian for lunch and walked back to the station thinking how little that part of Swansea has changed in the 30 years plus that I have known it.
After another thoroughly enjoyable journey I headed in to Llandrindod Wells for a grocery shop to see me through a five night stay at Llangurrig during which Storms Austen and Boelo were due to hit. I then spent a very quiet night at Pont Ar Elan in the Elan Valley and was away across the bog to Lluest Cwm Bach bothy to assess recently reported damage. This must have taken place the previous weekend as all was well on our visit two weeks earlier. There was rubbish lying around, the shed side panel had been kicked in and the picket gate burnt. A timber from the memorial bench had also been burnt : nice one.
Anyway I set too and tidied up, swept out, burnt the dozen black bags of mixed rubbish outside as they contained gas cartridges which added a frisson of excitement and then sorted through the embers to remove the glass and metal which I bagged up for removal next weekend when we return to repair the damage. I measured up for what materials we would need and noticed a group of 6 red quads led by a blue dirt bike literally tearing up the Monk's Trod byway across the water which is in theory closed to all traffic. Back at the van the unplated blue bike roared past me and later in Rhayader I saw him and the 6 quads filling up at the petrol station, opposite the police post. I knocked on the door and explained what was going on but they said as I had no photographic evidence they couldn't really do anything. Despite the 3 officers inside and two patrol cars outside they also cited a lack of resources...
I had dropped my bike in at Neil's Wheels where I had bought it from and he said he could look at it straight away so I took my laundry off to be done and on my return he advised that the wheel rim was distorted beyond repair and that as the freewheel was also knackered a new wheel was the only option. Fortunately he had one in stock and could do it that afternoon so I headed up to the Elan Valley Trust Office to catch up with the team there who were so proactive with LCB 15 years previously. Only a new girl was there, Shin from Taiwan on a 3 year placement so we had a good chat and I asked her to pass on news of the recent bothy damage to the Estate Rangers. I also confirmed it would be OK to use their skips for next weeks rubbish removal.
Neil had my bike all sorted for a very reasonable £85 and I was soon up at Llangurrig filling up with water and catching up with Sue and Amey who are missing the lad Ozzie as he is working on a farm in New Zealand. The summer had been a challenge for water for both the livestock and campers but that was due to change over the weekend. Later that evening a large number of quads, dirt bikes and off road karts passed through, the latter sporting powerful light bars, loud sound systems and LED lights and poles all over the framework. It was quite intimidating and they had pulled up to reattach their number plates before hitting the highway. Sue said they were an increasing menace but contacting the police had produced a similar response to mine earlier.
Saturday saw Austen come and go so I rested up in the van with the heater on reading books on a Kindle found amongst the litter at LCB. I also passed on two sleeping bags and a wind up LED lantern which I had repaired to a guy hunkering down in a tent at the far end of the site. Apparently he is a bit of a loner working his way down from Scotland and I hoped dry bags would make life more comfortable for him. Boelo blew through overnight in to Sunday so that by late morning it was bright but breezy so I gave the bike a test run up to NR bothy where all was well and two guys who had stayed the night before had left an appreciative note in the bothy which was clean and tidy. Unfortunately our MO of 25 years up there felt so intimidated by the aggressive behaviour of 8 lads who had driven in illegally the previous weekend that he has decided to step down from the role.
It is ironic that we could do with more volunteers to help at out bothies and yet people blame antisocial behaviour on the lack of things for young people to do - how we square that circle is something to think about but for now that is more than enough from me so enjoy a few more pictures HERE
My next post will be a little sooner as I am still in Wales for another 3 weeks with plenty going on.
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