Last few days in Georgia

Continuing the descent from Mestia in the High Caucasus meant following the rushing waters of the Enguri river, grey and swollen with meltwater. I remembered it being a poor road surface with precarious overhanging cliffs and sections of landslide but with no snow and the trees in leaf it didn't feel as daunting as last year. Tiny villages clung to the valley sides and a number of sawmills occupied any flat areas. Eventually though the headwaters of the Enguri reservoir tamed the flow and a huge floating mass of lumber offcuts occupied the calmer waters. Below the eponymous dam I found a cracking park up alongside the river reached initially by a short steep rocky section of track but soon becoming a flat grassy series of meadows with seclusion and privacy. A few cows wandered by and later an old guy brought his grandson down for some fishing but otherwise I had the place to myself.

In Zugdidi on a baking hot day I parked up to visit the Dadiani Palaces and Botanical Gardens that had historic connections to Napoleon and more recently Prince Murat who I had stayed with last year. Both buildings were full of history and artefacts surrounding their past and that of the wider area whilst the large gardens provided much needed shade.

When I got back to the van I decided the city centre parking was a bit exposed for an overnight so pushed on towards a truck stop near Poti. This also didn't feel right and was by a busy road so I carried on out to the coast further south, took a long sandy dead end of a track out to the shoreline and was soon parked right on the Black Sea's edge with the city of Batumi glowing some 50 odd miles further south. 

Apart from a couple of fishermen on the adjacent lagoon there was no one about and a good onshore breeze kept things pleasantly cool. I was surprised to notice blue and red strobes at about 01.30 as the police drove by and turned round but they didn't bother stopping and it was an otherwise peaceful night.

Information from Salvo and Sylvie persuaded me to alter my plans slightly and head in to Turkey via Vale rather than the much busier Sarpi crossing which takes all the trucks and other vehicles from the main coast road. Thus I headed inland to stop at Camp Itara north of Ozurgeti which is run by a family of German expats. They allow people to stay in their large garden with plenty of space and shade, a very good shower facility and access to a washing machine with a campers kitchen available as well. I spotted the German couple from a couple of weeks ago in the valley below the Chkumi monastery and parked up nearby for a catch up. The whole set up was very well organised and relaxing so I dealt with the laundry, cleaned out the van and planned my onwards progress. A huge German MAN 4x4 truck pulled in the following day and yet again I could only imagine the limitations and frustrations of such a huge rig most of the time.

Heading off after two nights I made my way east again passing Samtredia, filling up with diesel and then south of Kutaisi turning south for Baghdati and the mountains of the Lower Caucasus which lie between Georgia and Turkey. After a decent road as far as the spa resort of Sairme I began the 20 odd kilometre climb along a forestry track to the Zekari Pass. As the trees thinned out the track became rougher and included numerous sharp hairpins before at above 2,000m the clouds obscured the view at a point where a local shepherd had his humble dwelling. After a few more foggy kilometres and another 200m of ascent I reached flat ground at the top of the pass with visibility well under a 100m. There was a picnic shelter and I could hear a few voices coming out of the mist from various directions so chose a level spot and parked up. It was too foggy to see anything other than close by and at one point a minibus crawled by heading up the grassy slope. Later on a shepherd appeared on horse back and seemed to indicate things would clear up overnight so I settled in, fired up the heater and with no internet connection, devoured a couple of books. At one point the well strung out group of mountain bikers I had passed on the ascent reached the col and were grabbing a break under the shelter and looking out in to the gloom - they faced a long cold descent but were in good spirits. They were all from various cities in India and were on a 14 day visit to Georgia for the mountain biking and had a young Georgian guide with them.

After a bit of thunder and lightning overnight things did clear up first thing and I could see the minibus had only continued on another couple of hundred metres to where half a dozen tents were set up. The views were remarkable with 2,500m peaks towering above cloud filled valleys and bright green slopes leading up to their beckoning summits. I packed sandwiches and a drink and set off in the hope of reaching Didimaghala but what had looked like a steep grassy slope turned out to be knee high dwarf rhododendron that was impossible to pass through safely as the branches were so intertwined. I was reminded of my last encounter with the full sized stuff on Goat Fell on Aran that had nearly ended badly.

As the clouds had gathered in again and another thunderstorm was brewing I headed back to the van and was passed by another group of mountain bikers just as the heavens opened so was as always grateful for the heater.

Monday dawned bright and sunny with fantastic views, especially to the north where the snow clad summits of the High Caucasus shimmered in the distance. Overlooking the astronomy complex  on the way to Abastumani to the south I stopped for a quick reconnection with the internet before starting down a sinuous track that eventually reached some very basic shepherds dwellings. After these the track became much steeper and for an hour or so I drove with baited breath as the route became much rougher with washed out gullies, rock strewn hairpins and glutinous muddy stretches - I later found out that the route had been closed by snow until three weeks previously. Landslides and very narrow sections added to the mix and whilst I met the odd 4x4 heading up I was concerned that if I couldn't get past it would be nigh on impossible to turn round let alone retrace my steps. However after a final tricky section where the van performed beyond any reasonable expectation I reached tarmac with huge relief. Outside Abastumani which is a popular spa resort I filled up with water from a small spring and then dropped down to Akhaltsikhe. A rather dodgy looking LPG outfit filled two 907 cylinders for a fiver in total before I parked up by a lake on the edge of town, unfortunately with no shade but at least there was a decent breeze. 

We had visited the huge castle last year so I was content with a look round the town, an ice cream in the park and later a walk round the lake with a number of locals. People were out till late on a barmy evening but no one troubled me and I slept through until a couple of delivery vans arrived early to redistribute parcels and packages.

After filling up to use most of my final lari I drive the few miles to Vale and the Turkish border a few miles beyond that. A modest line of HGVs were passed and I presented my passport at Georgian control. A slightly grumpy customs guy insisted I remove the bike cover to reveal.......... a bike, but then stamped me out and I was then presenting my documents to the Turkish officials. They had a quick look round and then directed me to the vehicle import booth. Here I was asked for my insurance and as I needed to buy it the friendly lass told me to leave the van, walk out to the sigurta office and then bring my policy documents back. To exit I had to leave my passport at the final barrier but then the insurance guy said he needed to photograph it and they only took cash. So back to the van it was for my stash of lire but this time I left the barrier guy an old driving licence as security and before long had my insurance valid for 3 months for £36. Back at the vehicle import booth this was soon processed and I was away within an hour and a half all told.

The small town of Posof was apparently where to buy a Turkish SIM so I parked up, asked a friendly copper for directions and was soon at the TurkCell shop where the assistant struggled to issue me with a local SIM. She seemed to think my passport was wrong but I showed her the morning's stamps and my driving licence and eventually after an hour and a half we were good to go. A quick chicken and rice dish nearby followed by some shopping and I was off down to a picnic site by the river where I have found a shady and idyllic spot to regroup. There is plenty of space and family groups have been enjoying themselves but as it's all quiet now the genny is up and running so a hot shower beckons.

I will stay up in the mountains for as long as possible as here at 4,600' it is pleasantly cool. This area of Turkey used to be Georgian so there is a good mix of churches, mosques and castles to keep me amused.

More of this eventually so for now enjoy these.... Extras