ON THE BOG

 After waiting around in Limerick for three days for Decathlon to replace a simple broken freewheel I had had enough by the Wednesday. I had enjoyed the town of Limerick and the Bunratty attractions and had the van oil and filter changed so was keen to get going again. The garage had refused to use my oil and filter even though they couldn't get the semi synthetic I wanted putting in but it shouldn't do any harm and will be changed again at the end of the year before my winter travels. Whilst hanging about I came up with a third option for Decathlon which that morning they agreed to - basically I upgraded to the same bike but with Shimano Deore gearing, air filled forks and a few other tweaks. I got 15% off the shop price and a full refund on the initial purchase and felt that was a fair deal all round with me paying the balance of about £100. They had been insisting that the bike would have to go off to Dublin for a specialist repair as the replacement wheel was fouling the brake pads and out of true - all developments since it had been in their possession. Anyway I left happy with the deal and drove across to the more or less mid point of the Grand Canal, one of two which link Dublin and the Shannon and parked up at Daingean alongside the tow and cycle path. I set out to test the new wheels and just did a ten mile loop around local lanes on a hot sunny evening before enjoying a pint outside the local pub. The follwing day a 64 mile out and back west along the canal took me to Shannon Harbour via Tullamore where the well stocked if pricey Blakey's Cycle shop supplied and fitted a new bottle and cage. 

 

 

That evening a local guy, Cahel, stopped for a chat about the van and my lifestyle and very kindly insisted on giving me his number should I need any assistance whilst over here - much appreciated. An easier day took me east to Edenderry passing a curious lift bridge that allowed the canal and a narrow gauge railway once used for peat extraction to cross each other. A friendly cafe at the top of town provided hot coffee and a decent sausage roll before I returned to the van pleased that the replacement bike seemed to have been well set up and was as comfy as the other.  With time to spare I returned west a couple of miles to follow a spur off the main canal up to the village of Kilbeggan - well worth doing as the canal dug by the villagers who wanted to be part of the action is now largely filled in but the old harbour and associated warehouse buildings are well worth a look. The following morning after picking up the rubbish left by some youths after their Friday night junk food extravaganza I headed down to the Slieve Boom Mountains where two mountain bike trailheads were beckoning. Ballyoughter deep in the woods looked like the perfect place to spend a night or two with a large level carpark and no facilities other than the boards detailing the choice of routes. I tackled the blue route to test the bike's ability off road and suitably reassured did the red run after lunch as the clouds cleared. The trails were superbly designed and built offering miles of free flowing descents with generally well graded ascents on the forest tracks. Various people turned up for after work rides but by late evening there was just myself and one other van for the night. 

 

 

Sunday dawned bright and sunny and as other riders arrived I set off to repeat part of the previous day's blue route and then take the link lane over to the Offally trails at Kinnitty. These provided yet more hugely enjoyable miles with coffee and a cake at the hut in the grounds of Kinnitty Castle - a 4* hotel that was hosting a meeting of motorcyclists. Returning across to Laois I then picked up the previous day's red trail for a final hour of exhileration to cap off one of the best day's off road riding in recent times. Another quiet night followed a few hours sunbathing before I headed north enjoying extensive views from the high road above the bogs of central Ireland and pulled in at Thomastown on the Royal Canal opposite a pub and restaurant. I rode east the following day as far as Enfield, no not that one, and returned to the van disappointed to find that the pub was shut until Thursday. However I had plenty of good food in stock and enjoyed some IPlayer catch up as it seems that not only does Three not charge their EU Roaming fee in Ireland but they also allow the full unlimited data package I pay for - yet another Brexit quirk.

There was information on the Famine Trail describing how over 1600 people, mostly children, had walked all the way to Dublin to escape starvation and poverty, a bronze cast of a pair of child's shoes added a note of deep poignancy.

 

The following day I rode west to Mullingar with its huge cathedral and had the usual faff sourcing up to date information on Campingaz outlets, eventually finding Outdoor Sports on the small industrial estate out beyond the station. Obviously I wasn't carrying the two empties but reserved two to exchange the following day at the exhorbitant price of 55 euros each. Not the shop's fault as that is the going rate over here and around the £40-£45 mark in the UK - basically a rip off and hard to justify by the owners of Campingaz. Mainland Europe is half that price and I was getting the same size cylinders exchanged for one euro in Morocco so to date my average gas cost has been under a pound a day since leaving in December. If we do use campsites in the next few weeks any EHU at a fiver will be cheaper than gas as a cylinder lasts 7-10 days and once back in the UK I will switch over to FloGas. Using the genny would also be an option in any thoroughly remote locations so there are plenty of options. Incidentally the EcoFlow battery pack has been very useful on those days when the sun has hidden away taking some of the load off the LB and soon charging up as I move around so medium term I might install a 1600w Delta model that could then effectively provide hook up for the van out in the sticks.....

As I returned to the van the heavens opened for the last half hour - my first true soaking in years so after I had loaded up the bike and put the cover on I was grateful for the Eber's heat and a long hot shower. Returning for the gas bottles the next day I also called at an Aldi for supplies and was soon engaged in a conversation with a Spanish guy living over here who was really taken by the van and wanted to know all the ins and outs of van life - Eduardo again kindly offered me the chance to fill up with water as he lived nearby but I had no need as the tank lasts about a week when flying solo.

A short drive to the car park at Streamstown Station placed me mid way along the Old Rail Trail that links Mullingar and Athlone. There is a good clean loo block and water available even though the cafe was closed and there were no signs banning overnight parking so I tucked away in a corner before setting off to Athlone passing through Moate which had another lovely old station. Athlone Abbey alonside the Shannon was impressive and I returned along the same route admiring the carved limestone sculptures, some incorporating buddhist type prayer wheels and reading the boards that explained the formation of the surroundings bog land interspersed with higher eskers. Back at the Streamstown station a volunteer was planting up flower beds and confirmed that staying would be fine and I enjoyed a quiet evening with just one fellow cyclist also stopping to admire the van and very surprised to find it was 22 years old. Remarkably he had been in Mauritania in January as well but had been with a friend and hired a local driver and 4x4 to get down to the Gambia and Senegal - he had heard of the ore train but not actually ridden it - I am very tempted to return in a year or two and try to get further this time - lack of working ATMs and ready cash being the main cause of my stalled attempt this time.

 

Thursday was, after some 250 miles of riding over the last week, a day off with my destination a small campsite at Ballinderry near Lough Derg with a laundry stop on the way. En route I spent an absorbing couple of hours at the remarkable holy site of Clonmacnoise with its two round towers, ruined cathedral and numerous temples. Safely on display in the museum were two of the original and finely decorated crosses - well worth a visit.

 The well maintained campsite had mostly statics with a level grassed area for vans etc. so I arrived after lunch and rang Sean the owner who said to get set up and he would call by later. There was almost no one around so I filled up with water and connected to power as I wanted to give everything a good charge, clean the shower area and generally get ready for Mandy's arrival down at Shannon airport tonight. I got all the laundry dry, swept out, washed out the fridge, checked the various screws and bolts on both bikes, pumped up the tyres, checked the van tyre pressures and wheel bolts and gave the engine bay a wipe round. Following the sandstorms of the Western Sahara it really needs a good blow out with an air gun as there is fine sand in many of the nooks and crannies and then perhaps a deep clean with steam.

Sean has yet to make an appearance so I have dealt with the loo, loaded the bikes, strapped down the cover and completed this update. I am in no hurry to leave as it's only a ninety minute journey with the flight not due in until 10pm. We will stay at Bunratty once more as it's only 15 minutes from the airport - I am in danger of becoming an attraction having already stayed 3 nights.

We will then take our time following the coast clockwise round to Larne from where we will get the ferry across to Scotland with my only commitment a possible farm sit near Brecon in late July.

A few pics here as per usual..