Scotland and the Solar System

In early April I met Greg and Alex up on the Mendips for a long overdue catch up and some enjoyable walks which included traditional food and beer courtesy of the ever familiar Hunter's Inn at Priddy.  Later a  group of us met near Bridgwater to cycle the canal down to Taunton that  was originally intended to cut across the south west peninsula to allow shipping cargo more direct access from the Channel to the West coast of Britain. However the arrival of the railways rendered the link obsolete and the final section was never completed, thus today the route stands isolated from the rest of the canal network but offers enjoyable riding in an oft overlooked corner of the West country. 
We started from the visitor centre and car parking at Maunsel lock heading north first to Bridgwater where the canal wharf and marina has seem some sympathetic development but lacked a cafe. Returning south we stopped for lunch at a canal side pub before continuing down to Taunton encountering en route the various plinths and installations that constitute a scale representation of our solar system with the planets marked at intervals from an enormous replica sun - the size of the planets was also to scale with Earth amounting to a tennis ball compared to the head height sun. 

Riding in to Taunton we passed some very attractive housing and the Somerset County Cricket Ground before finding a cafe in a sunny square for coffee and cakes. On our return a puncture caused a short delay before we picked up quiet lanes to complete a circuit after which I headed north to Sheffield - a straightforward run of under four hours.
Monday saw a good walk in the north of the Peak District and other walks and rides later in the week. I had left my old mountain bike for repair and collected it only to find four miles in to a trip to meet Mandy from work that the cassette body had failed leaving me to walk back across town and get the shop to rectify the problem.






On the Friday I left for Scotland avoiding Leeds by using the motorways and then turning off in to Northumberland and passing through Barnard Castle and Middle Teesdale. After Alston I did a walk on an old railway line with an impressive viaduct before tucking away in the Scottish Borders in Reiver country. It was lovely to be back in the van once more with nothing but birdsong and a sunset to add to a fine evening.
Saturday saw a smooth trip through to Killin on Loch Tay where I met the rest of the gang for a week in a well appointed holiday cottage that had red squirrels in the garden and access to some good walks and bike rides. Munroes and Corbetts were bagged on some days whilst I cycled the Killin to Callander Sustrans route that took in a lofty viaduct on one day and completed a hard circuit of Glen Lyon returning via an old estate track the next.
Glen Ample provided a good off road route and exhilerating downhill to pick up the Callander Sustrans route again where the Forest Holidays cafe provided refreshments and a roaring wood stove.



An excellent meal at the Courie Inn in Killin rounded off a good week and as the gang headed south I tackled Ben Lawers on a sunny day with a good covering of snow on the upper reaches. Quite a blizzard blew up on the final ridge but once on the summit the skies cleared revealing extensive views and an ice encrusted trig point. I descended via another path to collect another summit before returning to the car park for a peaceful night after a very satisfying day.




Sunday saw an early start for Sauchie where I met Mandy at her brother's house and after walking the dogs we decided to head for the ferry to Arran that evening as it would give us an extra day in the fine weather. En route we passed the Kelpies we had cycled to in January and stopped at the Falkirk Wheel - an ingenious method of linking two canals whereby two boats sit in sections of canal that can be isolated and then simultaneously be lowered and raised largely by gravity. The kids Zorbing on the ponds looked to be having a great time as well but we were soon off to Ardrossan for the ferry over to Brodick - an enjoyable hour as the sun set. 

The Certificated Site at Shiskine provided a quiet pitch with hook up and our base for 3 nights with day one comprising a sweep round the south of the island and including an off road link through forestry followed by a long climb across the centre of the island. Day two started with another climb across to Brodick passing en route a rather unhappy van driver who had dropped the nearside of his van in to a substantial ditch. After a quick look round Brodick and Arran Aromatics we headed north to Lochranza stopping at the delightful hamlets of Corrie and Sannox before another stiff climb and a swift descent to the Arran Distillery for coffeee and cake.
In Lochranza itself we turned on to a side road to head round the coast a little towards Newton to enjoy warm sunshine and good views before returning to the castle where deer grazed the surrounding grassland and a rather fine private yacht moored up. The castle was in an impressive setting but before long we were heading north and then west pasing a row of fishermen's cottages known as the Twelve Apostles. A superb road took us south under a hot sun and on stopping at Pirnmill we decided to dine out on their terrace looking over to the Kintyre Peninsula on a calm and idyllic evening.
The final hour home soon passed and we enjoyed hot showers at the small site which is planning to double in size (still to only 20 pitches) as the recent 50% reduction in Calmac Ferry fares has increased visitor numbers substantially.
We drove across to Lochranza for a mid morning crossing to Claonaig passing the yacht we had seen moored the previous day. We were almost only the car on board and it was a shortish crossing followed by an even shorter drive across to Kennacraig for the ferry to Islay. Not having booked we were lucky to get on the next sailing an hour later and enjoyed the two hour journey on a flat sea with extensive views including a very attractive new build right on the fore shore.
Entering the Sound of Islay we spotted Mcarthurs Head lighthouse and the nearby MBA bothy before docking at Port Askaig.  A quick crossing of the island with a brief foray to the local shop at Bruichcladdich saw us parking up near Machir Bay for 3 nights of wild camping - the stream provided additional cooking and washing up water and the hot sun topped up the battery via the solar panels.
We walked along the deserted beach to enjoy a couple of hours sitting on the sun warmed rocks before heading back for a peaceful evening and an impressive sunset.
A rewarding day exploring the local lanes and coast took us to some stunning coves and beaches such as Saligo Bay and Sanaig Mor with its memorial to those lost from an Irish migrant vessel 200 years ago before we arrived at the Loch Gruinart RSPB centre. This was very informative and provided a welcome respite from the strong northerly winds -  the coffee machine was very much appreciated and once revived we pedalled up the west coast of the loch to enjoy the extensive dunes and views at Ardnave. Returning mid evening to the van after an enjoyable day we walked on the beach under a full moon around 11pm before sleeping soundly.

The next day we visited the ruined church and military cemetery at Kilchoman before a quiet road took us back to Bruichcladdich for a bacon sandwich enjoyed in the sunshine outside the excellent cafe and shop. Heading south we passed the distillery and then through Port Charlotte with a small harbour and some very attractive waterside properties. The village also has a community run campsite utilising the sports field and facilities with good views across to Bowmore.
The almost deserted road led us down to Port Wemyss and Portnahaven both unexpected delights with seals basking in the clear waters and a sturdy lighthouse on an offshore island.
Turning north we stopped at  the stunning beach near Lossit before taking an off road back to Machir Bay.
Moving on  after a relaxing morning we decided to stay at the Port Charlotte campsite which gave us a chance to have hot showers, fill up with water and top up the battery from hook up as well as taking a moderate ride across to the West coast and back spotting deer in the woodland as we followed an off road track. The historic cemetery at Nerabus had some remarkable carved headstones and the campsite provided a cosy base with even a TV signal available from across the waters.
We then headed back to Port Askaig via Finlaggan - the ancient seat of power for the Lords of the Isles - and the Bunnahabhain distillery which seemed deserted but did have a shop and tasting area tucked away. We were surprised that the old workers cottages were largely unoccupied as we had been told that the islands have plenty of job opportunities but affordable housing is in short supply. We were due to catch the short ferry over to Jura before lunch but low tides meant that the next sailing was delayed giving us a chance to chat to the local lobster fishermen and enjoy a pint in the pub as the Calmac ferry from the mainland arrived. The five minute crossing to Jura put us on the island's only road which we followed to Craighouse and then took a track down to the beach at Kells for a memorable pitch just yards from the sea. We cycled up to the nearest high point past Knockrome before taking a track right round Ardmenish bay to reach the two Light Houses that sit at the far end of the peninsula alongside a stone jetty. On our return we decided we had time to grab a pint at Jura's only pub back in Craighouse before sleeping soundly back at Kells where offshore a Norwegian motor launch had dropped anchor.
A short drive to Tarbert saw us parking up to spend the day walking round the coast to the newly renovated MBA bothy Cruib Lodge which was a credit to all those involved. It is a demanding route and forms part of a tough multi day walk up Jura's wild west coast - see later.
Our final day was spent cycling to the very northern tip of the island passing Barnhill where George Orwell wrote 1984 and remote Kinuachdrachd before walking the couple of miles to the waters between Jura and Scarba that house the Corryvreckan whirlpool. Wild goats grazed the craggy headland but sadly there was no sign of the sea eagle nest I had seen on a previous visit four years ago. Our return south was assisted by a strong tailwind but this also brought in the first rain of the trip making it a rather strenuous day so we decided to treat ourselves to a night in the Jura hotel and were soon enjoying hot showers and good food with a view across the bay where a small French yacht had moored up. The comfy room came with a heart breakfast and we departed for Islay amused to see that the bin lorry timed its arrival to the minute for its return crossing.

The SNP were canvassing in Bowmore and secured my vote with free scones and jam before we headed south to walk on the Oa peninsula passing the poignant if intrusive American Memorial to fallen naval crews that stood atop impressive cliffs.
Round at Port Ellen we  walked out to the Whistling Beach and back via the oddly square shaped lighthouse that guards the port entrance and checked out the ferry terminal before passing the Laphroaig distillery and calling in at Lagavullin which is celebrating its 200th anniversary. We bought a bottle as a present for Mandy's brother and discovered that the once free Portuguese and Spanish sherry barrels now cost around £2000 as the collapse in the consumption of sherry means that much is poured away leaving only the barrels to be sold as a source of income. A good view across to the distillery was enjoyed from the ruined castle further round the bay.
Round at Ardtalla we found another superb wild pitch adjacent to a pebble beach with deer appearing at dusk and two swans paddling just offshore. Whilst it was still dry it had turned much colder and as we were alone decided to fire up the genny giving us a cosy evening.
Overnight quite a bit of snow had fallen on the local tops and across on the mainland peaks but at sea level all was well allowing us to walk north to the estate bothy half way along the route to MacArthurs Head lighthouse. We descended the steep steps to the small stone wharf as a fierce wind blew from the north and after watching the ferry pass headed back to the van for another cosy night in with the genny purring away almost inaudibly.

 

Early on the Friday morning we were off for the first ferry of the day back to Kennacraig - it arrived disgorging mostly commercial and freight vehicles and we were soon loaded up and tucking in to a breakfast during the two hour crossing. Three hours down to Stirling rounded off a superb trip in the form of a good evening meal out with family before the haul south to Yorkshire.
I then headed to Shropshire and mid Wales to attend to family paperwork, play some badminton in Brecon and catch up with Ian near Neath.
Across in  Bristol  I gave Bill a hand to rehang his van door following some minor bodywork (a T4 door is a surprisingly heavy thing) after which we explored some off road tracks and lanes in and around Berkeley having first cycled along the Severn from his sailing club near Oldbury Nuclear power station - currently being decommissioned. After a good meal in the Anchor's garden I returned to my place by the inlet but decided to move as a family were having a rather smoky barbecue nearby.
After sleeping soundly I woke to the alarming site of my initial pitch being under two feet of water courtesy of one of the higher tides of the year - that would have almost certainly been the end of the trusty old van which later that day clocked up 322,000 miles.
A good walk in the Peak District saw us sweltering in hot sunshine before on the Monday three of us with four bikes headed down to the Swansea Valley for another visit to the Ancient Briton at Penycae.
Jean eventually turned up after a torrential downpour to join Penny in a comfortable room while we pitched up on the peaceful campsite. There was time for a walk to the Craig Y Nos country park before dinner although the rain had arrived and stayed during Tuesday. However we togged up and enjoyed a walk in Waterfall Country above Pontneddfechan before a good lunch at The Angel and another walk visiting the cave entrances at Porth Yr Ogof and walking down to the Clyngwyn falls.
That evening the four of us were joined by local friends for an enjoyable evening and on the Wednesday despite leaden skies we loaded the bikes up to drive down to Gorseinnon and the start of the Millenium Coastal Route heading to Pembrey. During coffee at Llanelli the skies cleared giving us a good day following the trail, watching two 360 excavators dredging Burry Port Inlet and returning after a total of 30 odd miles in the saddle.
That evening saw a good curry in Ystradgynlais before we returned to Sheffield on the Thursday.
So I am currently back in Scotland as the wild west coast of Jura has tempted me in to a four or five day walk from Tarbert across to Cruib Lodge and back via Barnhill. The logistics involve a sailing to Islay at 09.45 tomorrow, followed by the Jura ferry, a drive to the end of the tarmac, a ride halfway along the track to dump the bike, a walk back to the van which will then be left at Tarbert whislt I walk in to Cruib Lodge. Some days later I should return to the bike and then pedal back to the van with the option of a similar circuit covering the southern half of the island if the weather holds.
I collected a young French couple hitching north of Glasgow who are also heading to Islay and was pleased that my French was less rusty than expected. With up to two weeks here I may try and RV with Pete and Jan before heading south to farm sit near Brecon and then enjoy the Horizons Unlimited event at Clyro in mid June - well worth attending if you have the travel bug : check it out at www.horizonsunlimited.com/events/hubbuk-2016/

My photos sit at THIS LINK

and my forthcoming locations can be checked HERE

Emerging From Winter

An unusually long gap between posts largely reflects some major changes in my lifestyle - whilst still predominantly occupying the trusty old van that is now approaching 320,000 miles and still provides cosy and reassuringly comfortable accommodation I have also been spending time in northern England and exploring new areas, revisting old favourites and still taking adavntage of the stunning variety of scenery across mid Wales.

A challenging pair of muddy rides in a rain soaked Wiltshire tested our skills and endurance but it was, as ever, good to explore new routes and catch up with friends although our departure from near Brecon was almost thwarted by a heavy fall of snow that transformed the farm yard and buildings.
Dyrham Park near Bristol is undergoing major refurbishment work but its extensive parklands still provided a good walk and extensive views across Bristol.

Back up north I joined the Halcyon Walking Club on a route around Castleton that included Mam Tor and reminded me of many happy times caving in the area thirty years ago.

As part of celebrating Mandy's father's 80th birthday we visited the National Motorcycle Museum near Birmingham where over 800 models spanning the development of the motorbike were presented in perfect condition. It was very moving to see Graham transported back to his youth when these very machines had been a source of pleasure and adventure.






Returning south we walked the impressive Pontsycyllte viaduct near Llangollen before calling in on Mum who is still safely and cosily ensconced in her new home although a nasty fall in the village rather shook her confidence and sensibly a stick is now the order of the day when out and about.


We were heading for the comfortable accommodation provided at Nannerth near Rhayader in their Granary which made the base for a good wintry walk over to Lluest Cwm Bach bothy whose door as ever was proving troublesome. Otherwise all was well and after a sheltered lunch headed south to the dam wall to pick up the track east over the tops. The weather turned quickly giving us a demanding walk in snow across to the mountain road from where a more sheltered bridle path took us back to the cottage.

The following day we cycled round the Claerwen reservoir with the intention of reaching Claerdhu bothy but my chain snapped a couple of times which delayed us a little allowing us only enough time to glimpse the remote buildings from the track. However it was a stunning ride as was our final one on the last day which saw us complete the Elan Valley circuit giving a good view across to LCB and the awesome sight of all the dams overtopping following the heavy winter rains. That evening we sat outside under a starry sky in the newly installed hot tub - a truly memorable experience.

Late February saw me visiting most of the central Wales bothies to check their condition prior to the bi annual Area Meeting that I would be unable to attend. Most had withstood the winter well but again a small minority of mindless users had left rubbish, damaged fixtures and caused issues that could lead to the loss of these very special places. However the publicity surrounding the MBA's 50th anniversary last year has led to a surge in membership so with luck the influx of more responsible and respectful visitors will ensure that the less desirable elements will be deterred.

A Canadian visitor to our bothy in the Black Mountains was very appreciative - I met her on a real cracker of a day when I was giving my newly acquired carbon fibre mountain bike its first real test - a long high loop over Waun Fach and down the superb track to the Hermitage. It took the steep rocky descents in its stride and the 10kg weight made for a fast and responsive ride in superb conditions. Up above the ridge a pair of gliders soared in the sunshine whilst at ground level a substantial path is being built to counteract the erosive power of many pairs of feet on the soft peat.



The bike was a replacement for my 4 year old KTM that has seen a lot of use in largely demanding conditions and needs a few new bits and bobs - these will be fitted in due course as it is the bike I plan to use for our attempt on the Hadrian's Wall cycleway starting in west Cumbria and finishing on Tyneside. A return on the C2C is a possibility with the event taking place in late June.
Three of us walked in to Moel Prysgau to remove some rubbish and were able to pinch a lift across the swollen river in a Land Rover whose occupants seemed to have little idea of where they were or where they were going - indeed with no accompanying vehicle their solo descent of a substantial washout seemed foolhardy at best.
A trip south of Brecon gave me a chance to catch up with friends near  my old haunts - Ian's woodland camping is a continuing success and Paula has now seen the back of her horse box dweller.
Later that week I joined Mike at Nant Rhys to repair some snow damaged guttering, paint the interior walls and investigate the source of a water leak - this turned out to be a cracked upper window sill so can be easily rectified with lead flashing at a later date. A quick trip to LCB with Martin and his son saw the recalcitrant door eased once more and the stove doors reinstalled with their new glass before I took off for sunny Sheffield once more and walked with Penny. 

My 56th birthday in early March revolved around the Brecon Beacons with a combination of good walks and rides in the company of good friends.

On our journey south we visited dramatic Raglan Castle before enjoying the BANFF film festival in Brecon where one of the more original films followed a lad parcouring on the Isle of Man.
We enjoyed a quiet field with excellent shower facilities behind the Ancient Briton pub in the Upper Swansea Valley which also provided an exceptional meal in the great company of Tony and Sylvia.
Friday saw a 40 mile round trip down to the Mumbles and back on Sustrans routes - our reward being a good Italian at Verdis and views across the Bristol Channel to Somerset. Up at Jans we embarked on a snow bound walk above Llangorse over Mynydd Troed before that evening she produced an excellent meal, entertaining birthday card and sumptuous cake - thank you VERY much Jan as always.
Sunday saw a group of us on a wintry ride round the tracks and trails of Crychan forest before we headed south once more to the Ancient Briton from where we explored the waterfall country of the southern Beacons around Ystradfellte and took in the tour of the Welsh Whisky distillery at Penderyn which provided a fascinating insight in to the production of this elusive spirit.

Back up north once more we drove over to just south of Buxton to enjoy the cycling on old railways that cris cross the White Peak. From Sparklow the High Peak Trail took us right down in to Cromford after which lanes took us round Carsington Water to pick up the Tissington trail north of Ashbourne and return after over 40 miles of delightful riding - 11 labrador pups in a sunny garden were perhaps a notable highlight.
Next day we took a friend and her dogs on a good walk with her sophisticated off road chair coping admirably with the rough path as we climbed above the woods where her son and friends have created a network of challenging downhill trails.
In Sheffield we attended another adventure film festival - this time it included a film made to publicise locally built AirDrop bikes in which Mandy's lad and his mates played starring roles.
Sunday saw a group of us walking above the Snake Pass on Kinder Scout in beautiful weather - the rocky outcrops provided good shelter for lunch with outstanding views.

Nipping across to York I collected Mum who had been visisting her sister and then called in at Keighley on the way back to vist another of her friends - heavy traffic on the M62 meant a slow return but at least the late night drive back through mid Wales proved the worth of the new headlamp loom upgrade I had fitted to the van during a recent service.

Over the last week or so back in the Brecon Beacons I have clocked up a couple of hundred miles on the bike - a loop above Talybont and back over the Gap Road under clear blue skies was followed by a thrash along the Sarn Helen and a cold return past the Storey Arms before attending a talk on the vernacular buildings of Powys at Brecon theatre. A walk on Saturday was aimed at breaking in a new pair of boots before next month's trip to Scotland and three of us repeated the Gap Road ride on Sunday encountering above Pontsticill an illegally off roading Land Rover well and truly impaled on a large ash tree. On the Sunday night we were kept very much entertained by Mark Beaumont whose talk about his endurance cycling around the world included some remarkable statistics - 500 miles in 37 hours.......??
An easier day on Monday took me on old Roman tracks above Myddfai and the Usk reservoir but yesterday saw a much longer undertaking, the Monmouthshire and Brecon canal providing an 83 mile round trip to Newport which left me ready for bed at 8pm last night.

So Easter sees me in Yorkshire again, then a quick return south for a follow up to a recent blood test - a cholesterol level of 4.3 is encouraging so I should be raring to go for an April to be spent largely in Scotland that might include a trip to Mull for a bothy work party.

Later in the year I am looking after the farm near Brecon and in mid June assisting with and presenting at the HUBB 2016 event near Clyro - this should be a really good event for all those interested in travelling around the world, more details in my next post or just go to Google.

Photos from the last 10 weeks sit here.

Locations here.

MI(L)D Winter in the UK

After the heat of South America I was expecting something of a shock to the system but unusually mild weather for December prevented any adverse reaction and after a quick rv with Mum I headed north to the Lake District travelling by chance past the old church in Adel near Leeds where my grandparents had lived and worked and my parents married. It was quite an emotional moment for me especially as we found my grandparents grave - I had quite forgotten that Gran had passed away in 2000 - a year when I was celebrating a decade at the farm and the completion of all the major tasks that had entailed : new roof, kitchen, woodburners, conservatory, bathroom, electrics, bore hole, barn extension, polytunnels, greenhouse and seemingly miles of fencing and gates by the dozen. A very different life to the one I now lead and at the time an absolute privilege to pursue.

 

The Brimstone Hotel, part of the Langdale complex at Elterwater, provided a sumptuous room with complimentary food, drink and a full breakfast so acted as the base for a few days revisiting old favourites such as Dungeon Ghyll and Stickle Tarn, Cathedral Cave at Tilberthwaite, the hills behind my late grandfather's home and Tarn Hows which looked almost spring like.

A covering of snow on the Saturday added to the beauty and made for an interesting return long after dark with our route through Little Langdale illuminated by head torches. In fact we enjoyed the accommodation so much we stayed an extra night returning to Yorkshire after a very enjoyable break.
I then headed south for a memorable badminton club Christmas meal near Brecon and then made use of Ian's barn at Penylan to replace my front discs and pads on the van thus curing an alarming wobble in the steering under heavy braking. After a day in Halfway and Crychan forests with Jan we were joined by Bill, Pete and Greg for an excellent meal above Lower Chapel after which Bill, Pete and I headed to the Elan Valley for a mild, wild and wet ride up to LCB bothy. The dams were overflowing dramatically and the bothy was in fine order providing shelter for lunch before we hared back over the hills to Rhayader.

The excellent small site at Llangurig provided showers and electric alongside peace and quiet before on the Sunday we drove across to Nant Yr Arian to tackle the Sydyfrin black route that explores the remote hills west of Nant Y Moch reservoir. It was one of our best days out ever with good weather, stunning views and some superb single track to finish with.

After for me a second night at Glangwy I cycled in to Nant Rhys bothy after a morning of heavy rain - the sun came out and again the hut was in fine order sporting an unusual stag's head on the dividing wall.
Back in Shropshire I enjoyed a family Christmas before heading north once more where after a few days walking and cycling in the Peak District including Ladybower reservoir we headed north to Scotland. Despite the dire weather warnings and recent flooding we had an uneventful journey arriving safely in Stirling on the Forth estuary. Here we were warmly welcomed by Mandy's brother and sister in law and met her father Bill who at 83 has recently bought a new Triumph motorcycle and regularly heads off in to the Highlands - quite an inspiration.
Two good bike rides on mostly traffic free routes took us to Culross, an old village with cobbled streets and to see the art installation known as the Kelpies. These are two huge metal horse heads rearing out of the ground which provided an impressive sight and the opportunity for some arty photography.
After a traditional Scottish seeing in of the New Year with whisky and haggis we headed up to the west coast staying at the excellent Lagnaha farm campsite near Duror on Loch Linhe (www.lagnaha.co.uk). Glencoe had looked as dramatic as ever and the site provided clean hard standing pitches, excellent showers and the all important hook up to keep us cosy at this time of year.
Sunday saw a walk in to a nearby bothy which provided a spot for lunch - several large pines blocked the forest tracks and some had been snapped clean off several feet above the ground - we found out that a couple of days earlier a localised storm had passed through and even flipped an 8m motorhome on to its side - apparently a write off.
The owners had bikes available and as the site lies adjacent to the Fort William to Oban Sustrans route we borrowed one and headed up to Ballachulish and Glencoe before stopping on the impressive girder bridge as the wind screamed through the lattice work.

Calmer weather on the Tuesday saw us cycling south to Appin and dramatic Castle Stalker. A very smart hotel welcomed us in for hot soup and sandwiches by the fire and after checking the ferry times to Lismore we returned to the site for another very comfortable evening. A quick foray in to Fort William restocked our fresh food but the town was very quiet at this time of year so we did not linger long.
Wednesday started off damp but we were off by mid morning to Port Appin for the ferry over to Lismore. I had failed to notice that the crew enjoyed a lunch break so we had to wait for the 2pm sailing but this gave us time to spin round the local area which took longer than expected leaving us a dash to catch the small boat for the ten minute crossing.
With limited time available we turned off for Sailean and the small sheltered jetty alongside an old limestone quarry and kilns that had once been a thriving community. Abandoned crofts stood forlornly and even the tied up boat looked as if it rarely set sail, indeed the pungent smell from several rotting barrels of salted herring rather indicated that the local economy had failed.
Across the loch though the lights of a large marble quarry accessible only by sea indicated that there is still industry in the area and the island still boasts a school and shop, craft centre and holiday accommodation.
We caught the 17.15 ferry back and enjoyed a final night of comfort in the van having packed up most things as poor weather was forecast - it was a wild night but the van proved as trusty as ever as we headed through Glencoe and south alongside the overflowing Loch Lomond.
Glasgow's motorways were quiet and the sun emerged as we headed to Carlisle where the sight of a skip each outside many houses in the centre was sobering. We treated ourselves to another night of luxury at Brimstone and had the pool more or less to ourselves in the mid evening and early morning before heading across the Peninnes after an excellent 10 days away.
On the Saturday I caught the train to York to visit an aunt who is recovering well from a heart attack and stroke before on the Sunday we walked on the outskirts of Sheffield.
Monday gave me a chance to catch up with Penny and all her news and I am now in Brecon for the first badminton of the year before heading over to Wiltshire for a weekend of walking and mountain biking.

Photos can be found here
and 
Locations here.

Last Days in Peru and return to the UK

A day was spent sorting out the Hyundai after our four weeks on the road, disposing of items that would not be worth returning to the UK and enjoying a few days of rest and relaxation. We dropped in to Cajamarca and explored the lively market, took time to enjoy the natural thermal waters at a local health club and enjoyed a couple of excellent meals out with all the team and family before on the final night Suzy cooked us a superb three course meal which we shared in the large dining room of Dave's property.

An early taxi ride had us at the airport in time for the one hour flight to Lima - clear weather offered us views of the remote mountainous areas I hope to visit one day before we landed in the chaos of Lima once more.

Guillarmo was waiting to whisk us away in his taxi to Miraflores and our hotel but first we had to return a slightly frantic Canadian customer to his hotel as he had forgotten his phone - we are all too dependent on these fragile and easily mislaid devices but all was well and after an hour or so of the demented traffic we were in the quiet hotel once more.

That evening a final meal in the Haiti restaurant included for me delicious scallops before we retired early in preparation for our flights home.
Another white knuckle taxi ride saw us at the airport in good time and we departed on schedule at 11am.

The twelve hour flight passed reasonably well - I worked on photos and video clips as the hours ticked away before we emerged bleary eyed in to a clear Spanish dawn.
The two hours to Gatwick were a breeze and for once the Epassport gates were working and before long on a grey blustery morning we were returning to the Sussex countryside.
Chris and I then began the plod west arriving in Brecon around 6pm after some 36 hours travelling and I was pleased that the trusty bus fired up first time - Crad had kindly turned up in case of problems but I was soon on my way to the family home in Shropshire.
There, as is usually the case in my simplified and slimmed down lifestyle, there was almost no mail and no unexpected developments in my life or Mum's so I am now adjusting to the change in temperature, planning for Christmas and looking forward to catching up with many friends both old and new.

 It would be appropriate to thank Chris,Dave,Franco,Horje,Mario and Suzy for some wonderful memories - it was sad to say goodbye to most of the team but there is a chance that we will all meet up one day, I very much hope so.

The trip was a useful introduction to South America and has inspired me to return for longer one day, although this will not be for some time. However there are plenty of plans afoot and I will remain as determined as ever to enjoy the good fortune and opportunities presented by my survival of and recovery from a heart attack exactly four years ago to the day.

It is so much more than a cliche to say that every day is a bonus and I have been very fortunate to have been able to visit amongst others 

Ireland, France, Belgium ,Holland, Germany, Sweden, Finland, Norway, Denmark, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Australia, Peru, Ecuador and Colombia

over those years and remain optimistic that most people are warm, generous, friendly and helpful wanting only to share life experiences and do as well as possible by their families.


Last of the South American piccies sit here

and whilst in the UK Spotty Spot will be at best random - here

Ecuador Again and Back through Peru

Heavy traffic in Quito - something we had experienced ourselves prevented Mario from joining us that night as planned - even on a powerful BMW 650 so we dined well in great comfort as the party had indeed dispelled as promised.



Early next morning the random chirps and bleeps of the Hyundai's alarm woke me but it was only Franco who had decided to replace his front tyre and was busying himself in the hotel car park.
Mario arrived after breakfast
 and after a photo shoot with the vivacious receptionist we set off north initially and then turned west heading for Esmeralda and the coast.


As we dropped in altitude the temperature and humidity soared and we were soon in valleys almost inundated by the lush green vegetation of a tropical zone.
Bananas, coconut and date palms, mangoes and pineapple all grew freely and we enjoyed good local ice creams after a friendly military stop from an adjacent shack.


Whilst always polite and open it was amusing to see how the soldiers sharpened up their act when Mario produced his military ID and we were soon away to stop in a local village where the kids thought we had dropped in from space. They were all really good and friendly and asked politely to sit on the bikes and in the van - again I was reminded of times away in Morocco when I had allowed the local youths to jump in and experience the van which for all its modest comforts is a world away from their impoverished homes. We drank the ice cold milk from fresh coconuts, rapidly prepared by a huge fellah with a top notch machete before heading down to the coast where the heat almost knocked us over.





Overnighting in Pedernales gave us a chance to walk in the slightly cooler evening before finding a good place for dinner and as we left being entertained by a street act - a young lad on a unicycle juggling burning torches - all very clever but not a brilliant source of income for his partner and toddler who were alongside. Earlier we had met a young Argentinian couple living in a Type 2 VW air cooled van and selling handmade trinkets which again seemed a precarious existence.






The two bikes roared off in tandem as we continued to follow the coast south stopping to enjoy views of the vast Pacific Ocean before pulling up at a viewpoint just before a long bridge over the Rio Chone to Bahia de Caraquez which looked like a mini Manhattan on its distant peninsula.
By late afternoon after a lofty viewpoint outside the village where the buildings seemed in imminent danger of collapse we pulled in to Montanita and took rooms in a central hotel with secure parking and access on to the long sandy beach. The place had a real buzz with lots of bustling narrow streets lined with trinket and fast food stalls that were popular with the numerous young American travellers.
I took a long walk on the beach as the hours in a vehicle were playing havoc with my fitness and waistline - after a summer of exercise and dieting I had lost a fair bit but this trip will have undone all my good work.

 We found an excellent Italian for dinner where although the service was slow the food was good and a Charlie Chaplin film on the huge TV screen had us in fits of laughter - silent movies neatly surmount the language barrier in a noisy situation.
On our way back we noticed the remarkable sight of swifts or similar perched for the night on the power cables in huge numbers.




Our final day as Mario's guests took us towards the border with Peru with a visit to the large city of Salinas en route. Here in the posh bit we admired the hotels and marina where pelicans amongst others shot vertically in to the water just yards from the shore. Two guys painting the upper floors of a hotel dangled precariously on ropes whilst I gave an elderly Argentinian camper bus the once over.

A final diversion to a barren headland marking Ecuador's most westerly point at La Chocolatera involved passing through one of the bases that Mario had served at - plenty of soldiers were milling around but from what we could see there was no imminent threat of invasion from the vast expanse of ocean before us.

A light drizzle and descending dusk caused us to review our plans and we soon turned in to Hotel Jeshua that promised much and failed to deliver - a noisy pentecostal service in an adjacent building went on for hours, traffic thundered by on the road and my 3 neighbours seemed incapable of sleep.




The shower had another of the lethal looking direct shower heads I had seen in Montanita, again the earth wire was missing but this one did at least work and left the body tingling and clean - a good job as it was still hot and the fan was too noisy to leave on overnight.

A few mozzies were dealt with and I was glad to have shelled out a fair bit for anti malarials as this coastal part of Ecuador is a high risk area.






After a poor night's sleep we were away early as Mario had a long journey back to Quito - he had kindly bought us all a memento of our trip to Middle Earth and was grateful for his bottle of Scotch from Cali in Colombia where it is a third of the price. He was a very likeable guy and I hope to meet him again on a return trip one day - local contacts count for so much in a foreign land.
The Ecuador/ Peru border process was very efficient taking under half an hour - a sign of the approach to things came when a security guy yelled at us to use the pedestrian crossing but took no action when a car and van nearly ran us down by failing to stop - hey ho.

Near Mancora we pulled off the main road and followed a rough and dusty track to one of the nicest places we have stayed in. La Caprichosa has been raised from a dry dusty valley over the last 8 years by a Swiss Austrian couple whose attention to style and detail was a true credit to them. A number of stylish detached villas spread out over the land with a central dining area overlooking a salt water pool surrounded by palms. It was, sadly, almost empty and apparently they are losing around £5000 a month - a huge amount in anyone's books let alone by local standards and like El Hato and Madre Tierra it would no doubt be up for sale in the near future. However it served our purpose very well and we enjoyed a good meal outside before retiring to the spacious and well appointed rooms - my bed was larger than the whole of my living space in the van!!

After a refreshing dip in the pool we headed the few miles in to Mancora itself and pulled in to Las Pocitas which lay a couple of miles down a dusty and rutted track - an unpromising start. However the place itself was superb. Simple paja (palm) roofed shacks lined a stunning beach which stretched for miles with the sea no more than 30 yards away from our doors. There was a slight swell so the waves rolled in regularly and a breeze kept it bearably cool, however the sun is so strong here that I resisted the temptation to swim until later in the afternoon.

We enjoyed relaxing in hammocks and the swim when we did go in was sublime : warm, invigorating and good exercise. The rough track shook us up as we returned to the town for a meal in an Asian restaurant - the busy Pan American ran as usual right through the centre and carried the usual mix of long haul bus services, heavy trucks, local taxis and tuc tucs all blending in to a by now familiar mix. The various stall holders tried to entice us in but were never pushy or offended when we declined their wares and we enjoyed the mix of cultures, art forms, food styles and music.
Returning to the peace and quiet of our rooms we again tackled the track which now thronged with half lit tuc tucs, stray dogs and wild scooter riders.
Early next morning three of us walked south for an hour or so watching the pelicans skimming the waves, a fishing boat dragging in its nets and avoiding the stench of a bloated seal carcass. After another swim and reading I walked north past the new fishing jetty under construction and in to the village again. Birds of prey were attacking another carcass in the blistering heat and despite wearing a wide brimmed hat I was reddened by the sun's rays reflecting off the almost white sand.
Later that evening I walked back up again to avoid the road to hell and joined the others for dinner in an open fronted restaurant for grilled pork chops and ice cold beer. It looked hot and sweaty work over the charcoals but the end result was delicious - it is surprising how the hotter countries also favour the peppery and spicier food and I think over the last month I have become accustomed to the heat of various accompaniments.

What was to be our final day on the road started well with an early departure after a good breakfast on the terrace and a final traverse of the tortuous track. We deviated briefly to see the turtles at El Nurro but declined the opportunity to swim alongside them and headed off to Piura which had been the venue for a very noisy night 3 weeks earlier.

 We then tackled the long Sichura  desert where unfortunately one of  the Trans Alps exhausts began to smoke ominously in the middle of nowhere. A stuffed piston ring seemed the likely culprit or head gasket as oil was seeping from the head and there was little compression. It was a hot, dusty and dangerous place on the narrow hard shoulder so we decided to try towing Franco if only to get to a safer spot. Any faster than 20kph was too dangerous and it soon became apparent that to cover the remaining distance to Chiclayo could take all night - not a realistic possibility so in the slight shade of a tree we reviewed our options. Whilst discussing things two other bikes stopped and turned out to be Brits from Bath on a South American tour. They were very friendly and we chatted as Franco and Horje removed one of the rear seats from the Hyundai, the panniers and wheels from the bike and then between us all we just got the 200kg plus frame and running gear in to the back. Some luggage and the now redundant seat were piled in to the remaining space and the rest strapped on to the roof rack before we said goodbye to the Brits and jammed five of us in to the tight available space.
It was a relief to get going again as it was by now 5pm and we had many miles ahead of us - but at least we were all safe and together. It is a constant concern for me when away as breakdown cover is very much a western luxury and following the fun and games in Morocco earlier this year when I faced a 1500 mile journey across Morocco and then Spain with defunct suspension our predicament had a sense of deja vue. We stopped in Chiclayo and again in Chilete to revive the supremely stoical Jorje who by the time we reached Cajamarca at 2am had been driving for 18 hours - apart from a couple of police checks and some crazy lorries it was a largely uneventful ordeal although a few vicious mozzies had jumped in and took advantage of the tight spaces to attack my legs.

Suzy had the gates open and after extracting our bags we left the bulk of the goods to be dealt with in the morning and all headed off for a much needed sleep.


So today we have been right through the van sorting out things after almost a month on the road, whilst Suzy fussed over us. Ozzie has been hard at work in the grounds, the chicks have trebled in size and it was good to sit back and reflect on what has been a revealing and informative journey.






The APM lads have been amazing company looking after Chris and I throughout and always in good humour. Dave's unique approach to life has provided many memories - his 69th birthday at La Caprichosa put many a younger guy to shame - and for me it has been a remarkable introduction to three rewarding, welcoming and friendly countries that I very much hope to return to in the not too distant future.



Over the next couple of days we will relax, prepare for the journey home and put warm coats at hand for what will be a rude awakening as we return to the poor weather we have been reading about. Coastal SA has El Nino warnings for the next few months which if they materialise may devastate some of the amazing place we have seen but judging by the tenacity and resilience of the many people we have met they will survive - somehow.

A final post covering this next week will be posted from the UK so in the meantime

photos here and our progress here will have to do!

A Week in Colombia

The lobby painting in the Hotel Panorama rather failed to capture the reality of its location above a busy junction but it had suited us very well and whilst the others set off in search of bike parts I dived in to the enormous market soon losing myself in a maze of narrow aisles where stalls were laden with produce and goods of every description. It reminded me of the souks of Morocco and thrilled every sense - it is always difficult to capture the atmosphere in a picture as I try never to be intrusive and of course stand out anyway as a fair skinned, white haired gringo.

 Eventually I emerged in to the approach road that thronged with horse drawn carts, old Ford trucks, well worn Japanese pick ups, barrows and trolleys all vying for space and caught up with the others who had sourced a sackful  of Suzuki spares after a trip to the mechanic's home.
We followed the Pan American north with the scenery changing as we dropped out of the hills but a heavy tropical storm soon had us pulling in as it was unpleasant and dangerous for Franco  to keep riding.The small cafe provided some respite as we took an early lunch - the owner's children and parrot seemed equally absorbed in a TV cartoon as we waited for the deluge to subside.



Later after some memorable roads sweeping through endless mountain ranges we approached the large city of Cali where some 20km short we pulled in to Lago Grande Resort. This was spread out over sloping land full of mango trees and comprised a number of villas, a reception and dining area and a few rooms in a separate block of which we occupied our usual four. Unfortunately they claimed that their internet was down and insisted on cash upfront so Franco was despatched to an ATM with Dave's card as we settled in to the comfortable rooms. Hot water is not provided as it is normally very warm and whilst by current UK standards it was warm the cold shower was still something of an ordeal initially.
After Franco's return we dined outside whilst watching an international soccer match before retiring for a good night's sleep although thin walls did little to obscure the snoring of one team member who shall remain nameless. The hotel's groundsman also decided to fill our adjacent outdoor water feature from 6am with a huge pipe that tormented already primed bladders - as it is almost an exact 12 hour day here year round the rhythm of life begins early and thus so did ours.

Breakfast was the usual eggs, bread and coffee after which Dave and Chris took to the pool and sun-loungers whilst I went off to look round the extensive grounds which contained rather surprisingly a large well kept dog cemetery - moving but also slightly odd given that the vast majority of the population have so many challenges meeting life's basic needs.







Later we took a rather tedious drive through the busy traffic in to Cali where we enjoyed a couple of beers, bought some souvenirs and dined out on a busy street - at one point a large brightly coloured chiva ( the local old fashioned buses) drove past with a loud but merry party in full swing on board and later we enjoyed good Colombian coffee in the large square. Amusingly when we got back to our supervised parquedero the Hyundai was surrounded by a hundred or so scooters, most of which the attendant had to move to enable us to get out for the slightly quicker journey back to Lago Grande.
Here the sleepy night watchmen at two separate barriers let us in and we slept well.

Not long after leaving the next morning we were stopped by the police at a routine check point and again they were very polite and friendly and we were soon on our way south following the PA through the remarkable mountain scenery. Most of the steeper slopes were planted with coffee as apparently it doesn't tolerate its roots being waterlogged.
Again every bridge and tunnel was manned by the military and we stopped at one for a photo opportunity as twenty or so Suzuki 650 bikes were lined up - an impressive sight.






 After a long hot day we pulled in to a long hot village for a break and decided to stay in Hotel Paraiso - somewhere the Trades Description Act has never shined any light whatsoever. Located behind an all night filling station we waited for ages for keys before effecting entry via the windows to find no hot water, towels or working fans - as it happens the heat was such that cold showers were a blessing and whilst towels and keys did arrive the fan was replaced with one that was too noisy to use. Don't wish to sound like a whinging westerner but these really are only the basics and the places could do so much better if only they made a little extra effort.

In the relative cool of the late evening I went off for a long walk and soaked up the lively atmosphere as kids played in the street, dogs searched for scraps amongst the refuse, small stalls churned out delicious smelling snacks and shop keepers manned their tiny shacks. Officers at the police post were very friendly, pulling over the occasional truck for a cursory inspection with the odd pair dashing off on their bright green Suzukis with the pillion always bearing a rifle.

Back at the room I had a pretty poor night's kip as although around midnight the adjacent bar finally turned off Colombia's largest loudspeaker the trucks rolled in for fuel all night, the cockerels were off from 3am and families living in the assortment of shacks were on the go from 5. The temperature never fell below 70 either so I was somewhat grumpy next morning - sorry chaps.

Our aim for the day was to cross back in to Ecuador but en route we left the Pan American which again despite its glamorous title was no more than an A road equivalent and at times less than that busy with the chivas full of people and luggage, lorries of all descriptions, overloaded buses and taxis, pick ups with families sitting astride goods for market, cattle and pig trucks and at intervals chaotic roadworks as the challenging terrain leads to landslides, ruptured roads and washed out bridges. However it was all fascinating and we made good progress with just the odd near miss as trucks and taxis refused to give way once committed to overtaking.


The reason for our diversion was to see Las Lajas properly and we were soon swaying gently in the capsule of a ski lift that would transport us across a deep river ravine to the stunningly situated church below. This sat on a bridge spanning the river and was an impressive sight - we enjoyed a couple of hours looking round and inspecting the museum before returning to the lift which has been open 3 years but does not appear on Google maps hence my Spot location for the day places me randomly in a field half way down the ravine's side.


A Colombian girl was grateful for a lift to the border where our immigration and custom's procedures went very well and we were soon in to Tulcan which is a rather busy border town but suited us as our other option lay a couple of hours away and would entail riding after dark for Franco.
The hotel located near the bus terminal was fine and seemed well finished and whilst my room was perhaps a tad tight it served a purpose. We walked over to a small cafe full of locals that did a set menu of ham soup and then a thin but tasty steak with rice and veg - five of us eating well for about £10. Ecuador uses the $ so it took some adjusting from the millions of Colombian pesos we had been working in.
An ice cream from a corner shop rounded off a good day before we all retired to bed - the basement disco failed to keep me awake this time - must be getting used to local ways.

The next morning I followed the stairwell up to emerge in to the unfinished top floor of the hotel and then the roof from which there were views over the workaday town - I also got a close up of the alarming power supply arrangements at the pole and noted that  two thin cables jammed in to a socket were powering a welder, scary stuff.
Breakfast in the same cafe was very good and we watched as the day's supplies were brought in by various urchins - gas bottles, baskets of bread, bundles of herbs and at a rough count almost a thousand eggs on trays.
Thus with the team refueled we stopped at a garage to tank up the van and bike - diesel again now costing 60p a gallon - before heading south once more for Ibarra where we are due to meet Mario the retired colonel who was heading up from Quito to join us for a few days.

Chris was troubled again with stomach woes and during a hasty stop in a simple food shack we sat and watched the world go by noting the subtle changes between the people and cultures of two different countries.










Down at Ibarra the Hosteria El Prado on the approach to town seemed inaccessible as there were cars and pick ups parked everywhere. It turned out that the local power company were putting on a big day for employees and their families with perhaps 200 people enjoying good food in a large marquee that had Ecuador's largest speakers on full whack. We were assured that it would all be over by 7pm and were shown to some of the best rooms of the trip so far - an added bonus was an excellent heated pool, Turkish bath, steaming sauna and jacuzzi which we all enjoyed ; a chance to feel really refreshed after a few weeks on the road.

Whilst I prefer the simple life in the van as a method of travel and accommodation I have always over the years enjoyed the odd night of luxury but would not want to travel as extensively as I have just moving from one hotel to another. In fact as we came in to town I had spotted the only evidence of any organised camping as an aire sign pointed down to the lake - a while back I had also seen a German plated T5 camper as well as a large Swiss plated expedition truck so clearly there is a fledgling 'camper' presence as well as the scattering of well loaded motorbike travellers we had seen.
With confirmation that Mario was en route but running late we dined in the excellent restaurant before turning in and are now awaiting his safe arrival.




Tomorrow we head for the coast and will probably be back to Cajamarca in Peru in a week or so before the return to Lima for flights home and no doubt a rude and wintry awakening.

Other photos available at this link


 and our progress here.

The recent glitch with the |Spot seems to have been resolved and was no doubt down to user error.

Crossing the Equator

 Quito is the second highest capital city in the world after La Paz and stretches for some 40 miles along a valley and spreading up the surrounding hills to accommodate its 2,000,000 plus citizens. Whilst much of this is unavoidably noisy, crowded and chaotic the historic centre is very different.
A central square with on one side the still occupied presidential palace, and on another the main cathedral sits amidst a host of streets containing further churches, museums and other grandiose architecture with the streets forming an easily negotiable grid pattern.

We walked at random enjoying the warm afternoon air - our centrally located hotel being ideally placed although the adjacent trams caused the fittings in my room to shake and other occupants were at times inconsiderately noisy.
Many people were walking the pavements and roads trying to sell fruit, veg, bread or other necessities in dollar bags and the shops ranged from tiny shacks to large department stores, whilst the shoe shine boys, occasional beggars and ever present but friendly police and security guards all combined to make for a fascinating atmosphere.




Later that evening we met up with two friends of Dave's - both retired colonels from the Ecuadorian army who were good company. Mario had served around the world including London and as an attache in Iraq for 18 months. He has a son currently serving deep in the Amazon on the border with Peru but has himself now retired and is a keen motorcyclist.

We dined well in an exclusive restaurant tucked away in government buildings off the main square before walking down to a beautifully restored street in old Quito that reminded me of rural Spain at its best. Here in a lively bar we enjoyed a local fermented sugar cane brew and appreciated local musicians both indoors and out on the street before returning late to our rooms.

Mario kindly spent the next day showing us some of Quito's highlights which included the museum and monuments that mark the historic battles to achieve independence from Spain, a stunning basilica and then after meeting his wife at his comfortable home we headed to the Middle of the Earth.

No this was not a return to my Hobbit home but a visit to the park and monument that marks the line of the equator a few miles north of Quito. The monument contained a number of excellent displays explaining the science of the solar system, gravity, hemispheres and the like whilst the top level provided a good vantage point for views across to the higher peaks of the Andes. On our way back we visited a 'Scottish' bar where the enthusiasm for a TV football match added to the already lively atmosphere - I was by then somewhat tired and it seemed a long haul back to the still shaking hotel.

Our departure the following day was slightly delayed as Chris and Dave had a pants crisis due to the launderette not opening until 10 am - we had missed closing time last night - but eventually with Franco leading the way on his trusty TransAlp, Horje keeping up despite the random driving of most other vehicles and me providing some reassurance as to the route we were heading north. Before coming away I had downloaded to my phone the Maps.me app which has proved remarkably useful - it is free, contains no advertising and yet gives accurate offline street level mapping plus route finding in any country - I would thoroughly recommend it to anyone traveling at home or abroad as it really is a map in your pocket at all times.

 A nasty and presumably fatal accident as we approached Quito airport held us up - a Coca Cola delivery lorry had misjudged a sharp bend at the bottom of a long hill and the crumpled cab was surrounded by thousands of bottles and debris.








Eventually however we were out of the city and following well engineered and largely well maintained roads that tended to follow ridges before the occasional alpine style descents and climbs in to larger valleys.


The mountains rippled on for ever and we looked across to small seemingly inaccessible farms and dwellings each surrounded by small cultivated fields.  One region looked so much like mid Wales, particularly as some of the tops were shrouded in cloud - amazing considering that we were effectively on the equator but largely due to our elevation at around 10,000'.
By late afternoon we were at the border with Colombia and were soon stamped out of Ecuador.
The immigration process for us was very quick but customs paperwork for the two vehicles took longer - we were the only ones in the office as locals can pass freely and the young girl was pleasant but thorough. The van and bike's chassis numbers were both rubbed with carbon so they could be imprinted on to sellotape that was attached to the documents and the driver and owner details recorded and copies kept.

 Once through we then had to stop at the small SOAT office to buy the required TPF&T insurance - a month cost £10 for the van and £15 for the bike. The friendly girl told us of a good local hotel as by now it was dark and it would have been a dangerous ride for Franco and we were soon booked in to comfortable rooms for much needed showers. We dined well in the restaurant - fortunately able to pay by card as we had decided not to change dollars in to pesos at the border as the rates were poor.


The next morning the SOAT girl's mother appeared as she worked at the hotel and had been in the office the previous night - she wished us well with our travels as we left in a heavy downpour, OK for us but hard on Franco. En route for Popayan we missed a turning but were rewarded by views down to the church on a bridge at Las Lajas which looked worth a visit, however as there was a big cycle event on it was rather busy so we decided to include it in our return journey.
Colombia's scenery changed as we gradually lost height and became more tropical. Coffee and banana plantations were dotted around, bamboo was grown for use in construction and the people were much darker in complexion - many of course from families historically part of the slave trade. It became very hot and we were grateful for the aircon as we passed through lively villages where mini festivals and events were marking the Sunday of a holiday weekend. Roadside shacks were offering delicious hot food or selling melons and mangoes and at each bridge and tunnel there was a military outpost where the soldiers would give a cheery thumbs up which had to be acknowledged as we flashed by. We were pulled over at one and asked to give a small donation but still had no pesos so a few Peruvian soles (about 10p) was given.

Fortunately in fact at a toll booth Dave found some crumpled notes to pay the £2 fee - about 10,000 soles!- otherwise Franco would have had to be sent off to find an ATM as bikes were free. Thus in the next large town (Pasto) we stopped to get some currency out. The ATM was located in a large supermarket which was as well stocked as any UK megastore and I decided to withdraw 300,000 pesos - about £60 as we are only in Colombia for a few days. I reflected on how much easier traveling is today - when I cycled India and Nepal in the early eighties there were no ATM's so obtaining cash entailed hours queuing to cash travelers cheques, no mobiles so calls home required pre booked time in booths, certainly no Skype which makes keeping in touch with loved ones so easy and of course no internet to provide blogs or do the research. In those days I kept a diary and was restricted to the number of rolls of film I could carry and keep safe - nowadays it is so easy to shoot piccies, share them and save them - something I spent yesterday evening doing.
 Anyway the store's cafe provided lunch before we set off again following the Pan American north aiming for Popayan. The sight of two small lads on bikes tagging on to a slow moving lorry belching out black fumes provided amusement - particularly as one was simultaneously texting...
Whilst stopping for a coffee break we watched locals gearing up for a football match - the pitch had long drops either side so kicking in to touch was best avoided.
To avoid traveling at night we decided to stop at El Bordio where a huge bamboo structure provided shade from the sweltering heat - at least 90 degrees - and at one end wood fired stoves were providing delicious hot food. The place was a mini resort with a few cabins in the tropical gardens  and rooms in the main house plus an enticing pool so we were soon booked in. It was so hot that only cold water was provided in the shower and I decided to stay indoors with a large fan keeping it bearable as I reviewed and backed up all the Go Pro clips and photos.
After some time swatting all the mozzies I actually slept very well although the huge lorries rumbled past all night. The others all went off for a swim but with no sign of any filtration or chlorination equipment I decided to stay out, choosing instead to try and photograph the colourful but elusive bird life and buying two melons from the roadside stall - 4000 pesos being under a quid.

 The road north to Popayan was stunning - a few heavy lorries loaded with tractor units provided some hairy moments on the corners and another crash - this tine a gravel lorry misjudging a corner - kept us all alert. The roads were kept well but clearly this area gets torrential rain at times as there was much evidence of landslides - one section was awaiting repair but an old couple were risking death by straying in to the road brandishing shovels and asking for money.
At a coffee break we chatted to the local police who ride two up on bright green Suzuki motorcycles, the pillion holding his rifle at all times. Again very friendly as were the local civilians who were intrigued by the APM badged van.


Finally in Popayan the centrally located Hotel Panorama provided a large basement garage to keep our transport safe and we took up the usual four rooms before heading off in to town as Dave and Franco were after some spares for a couple of Suzuki bikes back in Cajamarca. They are cheaper here because the police ride the same bikes but it was a holiday Monday and all the outlets were closed.

Later we walked in to town and found an excellent pizzeria, downed slightly too much beer and were sobered up on the walk back by coming across a smash between two lads on a moped and a car. Neither had been wearing helmets but it looked like they would survive and we were impressed by how quickly the ambulance and police arrived and how professionally they dealt with the scene.

Anyway today the bike shops are open and I will visit the large market before we head north to Cali. The trip is going very well and it seems surreal that this will all change in a fortnight as we return to a stormy and wintry Britain - however until then we will enjoy this amazing opportunity which you can share via the  pictures at this link .

For some reason the Spot seems to struggle at times reporting on our location but have a look here anyway.