NINETY AND OUT

 After returning to Asseiceira I gave the the van a good clear out and tucked the bikes away before heading across Central Portugal on a sunny Monday evening heading towards Lisbon. My route avoided the toll motorways and brought me in from the north after a night at the large aire in Coruche which is next to a Lidl and provides free hook up with no fee. This would explain why it was almost full and I noticed a few mainly French vans with quads on trailers and the camel/palm tree stickers that indicated to me that they were also waiting in the hope that sea crossings to Morocco would resume shortly.

Lisbon airport is pretty straightforward and after just two circuits of the pick up zone I spotted Mandy heading across with her luggage. Within minutes we were crossing the superb Vasco da Gama bridge and heading east - there was loads to catch up on of course and we stopped briefly at the Montargil reservoir to stretch our legs - it's a lovely spot and I have overnighted there in previous years.

It seemed very surreal when we all caught up back at Asseiceira and after an unusual wet start to Wednesday morning we set off on a favourite walk to the old Roman steps that cross a small river and passes through the rocky land dotted with cork oak, some displaying the red trunks seen after the year's harvest.

We enjoyed riding the local tracks and trails that I had recce'd previously, crossed the odd stream without incident and enjoyed the custard tarts at Bernadino's in Beira. A meal in Santo Antonio on the Friday was excellent with the good company of Gary and Joao before we headed in to Castelo de Vide on the Saturday to see the market, climb up to the castle and revisit the small chapel that looks across the valley. Here I noted that a new via ferrata had been installed which looked fairly straightforward so we decided to return in a day or two and took off for a relaxing afternoon in the hot sun down by the Povoa lake. We took a small track down to the shore where we could enjoy the peace and quiet with the yellow mimosa flowers creating a stunning scene.

A beautiful sunset from the top of Marvao's remarkable castle brought to an end a long overdue visit to a part of Portugal that I am immensely fond of and feel very fortunate to have been able to return to.

After a final day at the campsite we packed up and returned to the vf. I've had the kit for a decade now but it has never seen the light of day so was still in good order. After a few silly photos I then set off in earnest to enjoy an hour or so of safe but hugely entertaining ascent with traverses and an exposed section that merely confirmed that climbing is not for me. I shot a Go Pro video and took some stills as the location and views are stunning before we returned to Povoa for a couple of nights down another narrow track with a perfect spot surrounded by yet more mimosa.

The following day we cycled up to Montelvao who's newly painted water tower was being muddied up by dozens of nesting house martins. A coffee in the small village bar set us on our way for a long loop exploring more rural tracks and visiting the Meadas menhir before returning for a quiet night. The actual aire above the lake is still closed so a few other vans were dotted around the shore and a Spanish guy seemed to be living in a makeshift tent nearby. Storks were nesting in both the trees and on top of electricity poles and a variety of waterfowl also arrived at the lake at dusk. A tiny bright green Mediterranean Tree Frog was poorly camouflaged on a dry branch but had gone by morning.

The uncertainty over Morocco opening persisted so we decided to head generally east and enjoy some of the places I had visited on my way down and explore others. A quick walk round Caceres and lunch in the main square preceded a return to Logrosan where the small aire has water and waste facilities and is tucked amongst trees on the edge of the town. We walked in and saw a group singing and raising awareness about International Womens day before walking back to the van. Early next morning we were away early to follow the Via Verde towards the thermal solar power station passing the old station buildings and then turning off to a large reservoir. This is linked to two others by a large water channel that contours around the local landscape for many miles. We followed its sinuous route back to the two reservoirs, climbed a short hill and then descended rapidly to Logrosan after 50 tough miles.

 

The monastery at Guadalupe could only be visited by tour so we tagged on to a Spanish group understanding very little of course but still being astonished at the extravagance of the decorated chapels and altars. A planned lunch in the square evaporated as having brought us menus and drinks the waiter studiously ignored us for an hour so we departed and headed east staying at a small picnic area below an old water mill.

The following day we came across a honey festival in a small town and were tempted in to buying some delicious chocolate and two lovely wooden nutcrackers.

Skirting south and east of Madrid brought us to the small village of Brea de Tajo where we parked on a lofty spot adjacent to the bull ring with a grand view over the plain. From here we took a rural track to cut across to the VV Del Tajuna but following the recent rain it became muddy to the point of unrideable and then worse as the remarkable clay soils completely  jammed both wheels on both bikes.

We managed to carry both to a firmer track and at the road picked out what we could before down in Orusco a car wash enabled us to get the crud off and after a coffee with friendly locals ride up to pretty Ambite. We then headed south to the junction with another VV and returned to Brea for a quiet night.

We stayed on a campsite for two nights at Canamares to do laundry and other domestic essentials and experienced a strangely exhilarating atmosphere as we cycled back down the impressive Priego gorge with gusty winds and a bizarre light, we extended the ride by following the old road up to a col and zipping back through the new tunnel and then following a side road with a river based swimming zone and another deep gorge beyond. A spectacular looking VF in the gorge was closed for maintenance but would be worth a return visit one day. Back at the site the wind had destroyed our table and the light had turned an unusual yellowy orange. The showers had a wood burner in each room so were very cosy and we settled in for a quiet night. The area is known for the production of willow for weaving and sheaves of the newly cut crop were standing drying in the fields or stockpiled in the farm yards.

Moving on we came to the remarkable rock formations of the 'Enchanted City' which would have been better in bright sunlight but by then we had learnt that much of Spain and Portugal was being affected by a huge Saharan dust storm which had blown in - this explained the electric atmosphere and unusual lighting of recent days. The rocks had eroded in to some remarkable shapes and were huge - ' The Ships' were as big as a ferry and the animal shapes surprisingly convincing.

We arrived at tiny Trasmoz which has one bar only open at weekends, no shop and a small church but a new aire with all facilities, marked concrete pitches and even an area of astroturf by each space. Water for one euro and electricity for four convinced us to stay the following day during some very wet and windy weather with a quiet day in the van passing very enjoyably.

It cleared up the following day although temperatures were still low as we climbed the road beneath Moncayo to 6,000' before a fast decent in to Tarazona where a coffee in a warm bar soon had us thawed out. From here the easy VV de Tarazona took us along to Tudela where we found a good cafe run by a hard working Chinese family. Retracing our route to Tarazona we took a side road back to Trasmoz arriving back after 50 odd rewarding miles with much ascent.

 

It was a short run to Arguedas where we stopped on the large patch of waste ground on the edge of the village which serves as the overflow to the official aire which is small and quite tight for the larger vans.The wild flowers made it look lovely and there was plenty of room beneath the cliffs that contained the remarkable cave houses occupied until surprisingly recently. We walked up to explore and were tickled pink that friends had also visited the very same kitchen with its oven and hidden bedrooms.

 From Arguedas we cycled up to the access point for the Bardenas Reales (Badlands) which are a unique geological feature in a semi desert area that has featured in various films over the years. We cycled down to the first feature on a sunny but windy day and then rode round the perimeter road with a stiff head wind in parts and the uneven surface making it quite hard work. However the scenery was stunning and we stopped for lunch near the military base that occupies the central no go zone.

Back at Arguedas we walked in to town and the following day cycled up in to the surrounding hills with a Mediterranean Ladder snake providing interest.

Olite's aire was ideal for visiting the beautiful old town with its central square dominated by a very extensive castle that we enjoyed exploring  - it was in good condition and well worth a visit.

 

The aire at Sos Del Rey Catolico was on the edge of another delightful old town which we enjoyed exploring before heading off to visit the castle and church at Javier and then the Monastery at Leyre.

At the latter we obtained the key for access to the impressive crypt and then the church above. By pure chance as we lingered a little longer twenty or so of the Gregorian monks emerged silently from a side door, took their places below the altar and began a wonderfully moving series of chants and hymns.

We returned to SDRC for the night and then starting at Liedana where we had shopped followed the short VV through the impressive Foz de Lumbier Gorge to Lumbier itself, seeing a rather unusual T5 camper conversion and meeting a British couple with a very nice looking T3 conversion.

After moving on to an excellent newly improved aire with bike washing and a service point complete with track pump and tools at Irurtzun right on the VVs Del Plazaola we cycled up to and then through the remarkable Leitza Tunnel which had some beautiful limestone formations mid way along where a stream ran out of the rocks. Back in town I had a much needed haircut and was able to chat a little with the young Moroccan guy who ran the place - by now of course my plans to go there were well and truly scuppered and we had a ferry home from Bilbao a week later.

We next moved on to Leitza itself and cycled back to the north end of the tunnel from the old station which seemed to be OK to park at overnight. We then headed north to Andoain to enjoy an ice cream before returning along the same route as it passed through numerous tunnels and along various valleys.

 

Our final VV began near the French border at Irun and headed east in to the foothills of the Pyrenees in Basque country to Doneztebe. Flooding had washed away some of the route but we passed through Bera and Sunbilla from where we could see a mountain top on fire which fortunately looked as if it wouldn't spread far. 

Back at  Irun we drove up to the recreation area at Enterria where families were packing up after barbecues and picnics to leave just a number of other vans and ourselves parked up for the night. It was a quiet spot and we made use of the water and waste facilities before leaving the following morning as the day's visitors began to arrive.

We started following the coast road round towards Bilbao which was busy on a sunny Sunday but took us through some lovely port villages giving us a chance to have a few hours on a beach and walk round Ondarroa and Lekeito before staying inland at a monastery that provides simple accommodation for pilgrims on the Santiago de Compostella route. We were the only occupants of the car park in marked contrast to the busier aires down on the coast.

 

 

Monday round the coast was much quieter and we enjoyed a light lunch at Elantoxbe where two artists were brightening up the harbour shelter before the sat nav expertly brought us to the aire for Bilbao high above the city and conveniently placed for the bus down to the centre. We enjoyed the Guggenheim and its environs, walked through the smart shopping areas and caught a late bus back for our final night of the trip.

 

With plenty of time to spare we headed to the port stopping en route to get laundry done and look in vain for a gas supplier - we will revert to Calor in the UK but I had hoped to take 3 full Camping Gaz ones home ready for next time.

Passport and security checks at the port were easy enough and we joined the lines of vehicles waiting to board the new Brittany Ferries LNG powered vessel the Salamanca on its maiden return crossing to Portsmouth. There is new infrastructure for refuelling as the ship carries 800,000 litres stored at -162 degrees C - somewhat sobering but I guess the way the world of heavy duty engines is going.

When I had booked a few weeks earlier the best cabins had gone but our internal four berther was fine and we had taken out tickets for the Commodore Cafe which was a good decision as unlimited snacks and drinks were on offer plus a good view of the seas ahead. It was a calm crossing for which I was very grateful and we enjoyed the experience immensely. Some folk were a bit greedy with the food and wine on offer and guarded their prime seats by the windows jealously. The tickets included the evening meal and breakfast, both of which were staggered to maximise space but this resulted in some long queues, something they will need to address. We passed the Isle of Wight as the sun set and docked on time after dark in Portsmouth where again customs and border control were simple enough.

An hour or so later we rolled quietly down the track to our little hide away site near Ringwood arriving just before midnight to sleep soundly in this quiet and secluded spot.

I found it very humbling to have been able to get way at all after the horrors of the pandemic and felt hugely privileged given the events in Ukraine to have been away and returned safely. The Brexit 90 in 180 rule seems ludicrous and was yet another little mentioned consequence of the decision to leave - I as yet see no benefit to the UK in that decision in this and many other areas of life, the economy and business. There are work arounds and I am making plans to get away again by late June with plenty already going on now I'm back - a further blog will cover events to date shortly.

Pics here as per usual.

In and Out and In and Up in Portugal

 

In Trujillo I walked from the parking by the old bull ring in to the historic centre with its huge main square dominated by both the church and, high above, the castle or alcazaba The Iglesia San Martin was stunning both inside and out as was the castle which also boasted remarkable views around the largely flat surrounding countryside. Pigeons were taking prime nesting spots in the old walls and a warm breeze blew on yet another cloudless day.

 In Caceres I recognised the aire tucked away near the older centre and walked up to the maze of streets that surround the numerous traditional buildings before spending a quiet night alongside a few other vans. The following morning I walked round to the nearest laundrette but had to wait a while as a lady had requisitioned all the machines for a vast pile of linen. Once mine was done I returned to the van to put it all away and then walked back in to the centre once more. A small restaurant with a sunny terrace provided me with an excellent menu del dia which I enjoyed at leisure before a second quiet night.

As I'd not been able to grab a large machine yesterday I took a second load round only to find the same lady with a similar huge load in progress, however she let me use one of the machines but seemed reluctant to give up the dryer.

A large Carrefour supermarket gave me the chance to stock up with plenty of good food and other items before I headed towards the Portuguese border hoping that there would be no Covid hassle. En route I filled up with diesel as it is considerably cheaper than Portugal at around £1.20 a litre and used a car wash to clean 8 weeks of dust off the van and bikes.

There was nobody at the border and within minutes I was taking the familiar and exceedingly narrow short cut through Gallegos to Santo Antonio Das Areias where Camping Asseiceira looked as welcoming as ever.

It is three years since I have been here and it was wonderful to see Gary looking well and the site still immaculate and unspoilt. I noticed new walking path signs in the area and that more old houses had been restored which Gary said was down to a push to encourage tourism and tempt younger people back to the area.

Over the next few days we caught up on news, visited his project to convert a former olive oil factory in to a new home and I was introduced to a long term resident who deals in cryptocurrency and an English guy who has been staying a while. Otherwise a few vans turned up for various nights but it was quiet - very few English winter visitors have made the trip but he had had a lot of Portuguese 'staycationers' over the previous summers, which I guess may bode well for enticing people to consider relocating to the emptier rural parts of the country.

I enjoyed various bike rides on the network of quiet lanes and rural tracks returning to the old station at Beira where a new business hub has been built as part of the repopulation drive.

Whilst giving my old bike a good clean and service I noticed that the front brake lever was hardly working so headed off to Portalegre in search of a replacement. However I was tempted by the availability of new bikes in the shop and took a couple out for a test spin. Realising how decrepit the old Cube felt I decided to forget repairs and asked the guy to prepare a Scott Scale carbon fibre hardtail with a 1x12 set up, 29'' tubeless wheels and hybrid SPD pedals Thus an hour later and a few bob lighter I left with a new machine to enjoy - an early birthday present or a late one given that over the last two years I had found it impossible to source the right bike in the UK

Back at the site I transferred various accessories and mounts across which did away with the shiny new look - thus I hope reducing the possibility of theft - and then stripped the old Cube of anything useful including the almost new tyre (which will fit Mandy's bike), the newish caliper and rear brake lever, all those small bolts and screws that are easily lost and then put the various bits of metal in the recycling bins and the frame in  another. It has been a well used bike across many countries and covered thousands of miles - many in tough conditions but like my old T4 van had just about reached the end of its useful life. Fond memories have just made me look that old girl up - still on the road, 353,000 miles on the clock, passing its MOTs regularly but only 8,000 miles in the four years since I sold her on - what a contrast to the stellar mileage I put on - 240,000 in 12 years! Do the math - it's a factor of 10.....

 

 

 

Anyway I tested the new wheels on a ride out to Castello De Vide passing an old friends former smallholding and heading out to the Povoa reservoir where numerous storks were nesting. The aire has been refurbished but remains closed for now and unusually there were no vans dotted around the shoreline, either a sign that the local police are moving people on or that visitors have yet to return in the usual numbers and possibly a combination of both.

As well as new footpath signs there are a bewildering number of mountain bike routes signed but basically they all follow the tangle of tracks and trails and for me it was reassuring to know that the vast majority are open for use enabling me to link various options up using the Satmap GPS to create some memorable rides. 

Back on site Gary and I tested and charged a pair of AGM leisure batteries that Russ had left following an upgrade and we decided they were in better condition than Gary's existing LB in his van so we will replace that one in due course.

In the background I have been monitoring the situation regarding a sea crossing to Morocco as by late March my post Brexit 90 day limit is up but to date the ports are still closed so I may have to return to the UK within a month. As Mandy is able to join me next week  we will probably spend a week at Marvao, two weeks looping up through Spain and then cross France quickly for a short ferry hop home.

The possible plan to get a ferry to Italy, cross Greece quickly and then spend three months in Turkey is somewhat hampered by the delays obtaining the 3 different PCR tests required despite my fully vaccinated status so I think I will be more than grateful for this winter trip and look forward to longer ones in the near future as Covid recedes and measures ease later in the year.

Thus after ten days at Marvao I decided on a short trip away heading via the Douro to the Sierra D'Estrella, Portugal's highest mountain range.

A quiet aire on the southern fringe of the park saw me adjacent to a Dutch family whose two toddlers seemed to be enjoying the adventure - the sight of them playing with buckets and spades on a pile of gravel reminded me of a photo I took on my first visit to Morocco of two small kids doing exactly the same and looking just as content - do we sometimes provide too much in the way of devices and gadgets to our youngsters...

Round at Loriga the village had installed a new aire which was really only accessible for smaller vans so I had it to myself. A group of local men were attacking a huge pile of tree trunks with a chain saw and tractor powered log splitter but called a halt soon after I arrived to enjoy beer, bread and cooked chicken in the warm sun.

 

I set off to explore the village passing a classic old Beetle before spotting a sign for a marked route up in to the surrounding mountains that reached an RAF memorial. I set off and climbed steeply on a track that then ended and became a footpath across the boulder strewn mountainside. It was hard work but I was determined to get there as had the local villagers who in 1944 had struggled up there to the scene of a crashed British Maritime Reconnaissance plane, a Lockheed Hudson, that had been en route from Gibraltar to London. The six airmen perished and their graves are still carefully maintained in the local cemetery - although bizarrely according to local archives three were destroyed by a 'mental patient' in 1972  and had to be replaced. The site is marked by a simple cross and no wreckage remains - local tungsten miners and charcoal burners had carried the remaining metal away to be repurposed in an area where even outside of war times were hard and materials in short supply.

My intention the next day was to visit the highest village in Portugal, Sabugueiro but judging by the numbers of cars heading that way it was a popular Sunday afternoon out. Thus I dropped down a side road and parked up in a small village lower down where a walk along a water channel took me in to the hills before leaving the waterway and contouring round the slopes before returning through pine woodland. The intriguing processionary caterpillars had hatched and I came across many of the ponderous lines of these creatures following  their leader across the ground.

 

 

Towards dusk I reached Sabugueiro which was now deserted and settled in for a quiet night by a chapel in a small square. Unfortunately the bin lorry came round at 5 the next morning which gave me the idea to get going and watch the sunrise from Torre, Portugal's highest mountain. It was a good drive on empty roads as the skies lightened and in temperatures around zero I was rewarded with a spectacular photo opportunity. After breakfast I began the long twisting descent through the Estrella National Park and by late morning was crossing back in to Spain. I stopped at Ciudad Rodrigo to walk the city walls with their superb views - outside a fair was setting up whilst within in the main square a remarkable transformation was taking place ; vast amounts of timber were being used to erect tiered seating and sturdy walls to turn the square in to a bull ring for the following weekend's carnival.

 

 It was a huge amount of work and I guess the place will be packed out. I'd only parked at the aire but as I arrived I met a couple from Northern Ireland in a large old Mercedes self converted bus who were looking for a property to buy in Portugal - he was a real character having served in the British Army, spent years in the Merchant Navy, then oil rigs around the world and most recently several years on the Stena Irish Sea ferries. I was also intrigued by a young Spanish guy camping out of the back of his estate car - he carefully set up a folding table with cloth and cutlery and then produced a stove and began cooking  - good to see this way of life appealing to so many characters and with such different approaches.

Between Bejar and Hervas I parked up at the old station of Banos de Montemayor, famed for its Roman thermal springs and followed the VV del Plata north to Bejar itself before returning to spend a hot afternoon in the sun. The following day I took the same VV south passing through Hervas to reach the trail end some 15 miles away. The old station did for another night and I fetched a couple of buckets of water from the spring to top up my tank. 

Today I passed through Plasencia where at last I found a Campingas outlet in a garden centre - several others promised by the locator app had not even existed. At £20 it is much cheaper than the UK and I expect a cylinder to last 10 days or so which is all hot water, cooking, washing up and the overnight fridge use. By staying off grid and avoiding campsites my total cost so far in 8 weeks away has been the £15 spent very early on at an aire with hook up for 3 nights - cheap living.

From the visitor centre for the Monfrague National Park I enjoyed another VV 12 miles each way that followed the old Madrid to Valencia D'Alcantara railway which has been superceded by a newer line that runs nearby. It was a good surface and passed through tree dotted grazing land with healthy looking cattle - both Spain and Portugal are seeing a drought and farmers are feeding their stock which is unusual in winter, in contrast to the UK feeding is normally only required in the dry parched summer months. In contrast to the storms back home I have had one afternoon of showers in the last 8 weeks...

This evening I am parked up in the square of Relvas which sits below Monsanto regarded as one of Portugal's prettiest villages. I walked up earlier on a cloudy afternoon which wasn't the best for photographs but was an improvement on my last visit in 2013 when according to this blog I had visited in stormy weather and there were trees down and tiles off roofs. The blog also described my previous visit to the Estrella around the same time  when the summit was shrouded in thick fog and snow lay on the roadside - no wonder I didn't recognise it. After 17 years on the road and so many amazing adventures I guess it's inevitable that I forget about some of the places I have visited but as the Estrella proved return visits are always different and can be an improvement on the first occasion, although the opposite can also be true.

 

Anyway that's everything up to date - shopping and laundry in Portalegre will precede my return to Marvao where I hope to borrow the vacuum cleaner and give the van a good clean out before my trip to Lisbon.

 A few pics here....

East to the Med then inland to the Centre

 As I pulled in to the aire at Cretas amongst olive trees I realised we had stayed there a couple of years ago en route to Barcelona but not actually ridden from there. The old town was full of beautiful stone buildings, cool arched walkways and was attractively lit at night.

I set off along the Via Verde heading north for a couple of hours noticing a transformation from pines to olives and almonds in the surrounding scenery. It was warm by day but again nights were frosty.

 

The VV also headed south with the lofty tops of the NP dels Ports looming and an isolated top with a ruined chapel caught my eye for a possible walk. The old stations were mostly abandoned although one did have a cafe based in an old railway carriage but it only opens in the summer. One other station also had a closed cafe but its wifi was still working allowing me to do a bit of planning whilst I enjoyed the last of the oranges from Burgos. The following morning as I prepared to leave a tractor turned up with another plus trailer followed by a 4x4 which contained a film crew. They were here to record the first tractor with its olive harvesting attachment - basically a large fan unfolded around the base of the tree and then two jaws gripped it and shook it violently to dislodge the ripe olives. It was fascinating to watch and the small crew took various clips, did interviews and launched a small drone for aerial shots.

 

I moved on to a huge monastery below the ruined chapel I had seen and enjoyed the 90 minute walk up steep paths for a panoramic view before dropping in to Tortosa where the aire was well organised but located under a rather noisy bridge. It was almost full but by tucking away beside a larger French van I was well shielded from the traffic.

The next day I cycled north up the VV de Zaffran to reach the old station with its wifi, again passing through a number of tunnels and crossing various rivers on lofty viaducts - it was a very enjoyable section and also passed a large weir that diverts water from the Ebro in to a huge network of canals that irrigate the rice paddies of the delta. Orange and lemon groves were full of fruit about to be picked and there were a number of spring flowers out in the warm sun.

A long but flat ride, initially along an irrigation canal and then following the Ebro River finally brought me out on the coast of the Med - the Ebro actually rises quite near Santander so had been following a pretty similar route to me over the last few weeks. The sea was calm and in the lagoons behind and on the flooded rice fields a range of birds and waterfowl were dabbling in the waters.

 

Back at Tortosa I found a laundrette and supermarket before heading out to the delta again for a stay on another busy aire on the south side of the river. I guess as it was the coast and warmer the increase in numbers was to be expected but again there were very few UK vehicles. I rode out to the coast and took a number of long sandy tracks along the shore line to reach the enclosed lagoon at the north, home to hundreds of flamingoes. It was flat easy cycling and the miles soon added up - 40/50 a day being my comfortable average.

The following day I returned to the coast, followed a sandy track and treated myself to a day on the beach where at one point a large tractor turned up to dredge the outlet from the irrigation channel so that the fields could dry out a little for planting.

Moving on I climbed high in to the PN dels Ports to the summit of Monte Cova arriving at the same time as two Spanish cyclists who shared the remarkable views before they shot off downhill. I fixed the GoPro to the screen and followed them with the camera set to speed up the descent making for an entertaining clip. Hidden corners were still quite icy but the cyclists had descended safely as I passed them and turned inland to Morella.

The aire is across the valley from the walled town and castle so has a good vantage point and being a small van I could park away at the end of the terrace with enough room for a small private 'garden' - thus out came the solar panel and chair for a couple of hours.

 

I walked in to town the next day passing the remains of a three tiered aquaduct that had brought water in for many years from a distant spring. The lofty castle was reached by a series of narrow streets and had a bull ring within its lower walls. The various levels and battlements culminated in a substantial courtyard at the top with the main keep and made for a very worthwhile visit. Down in the town I chose a small but smart restaurant for lunch and worked out that only the second Covid dose and booster Q codes actually enable you to enter premises in Spain.

After a quiet night I got up early to catch the sun rising over the town before heading to Viafame where another castle loomed over the town. A young German lad was touring in his BMW estate car with a roof tent and had a slide out kitchen with stove and cool box in the boot - he'd also made a hot water system by mounting a section of black painted plastic 6'' pipe horizontally on his roof rack with a filler cap and spout - ingenious..

The aire at Segorbe was no more than parking along a road by the railway station but it was quiet enough and allowed me to pick up the VV de Ojos Negros north that ran to Teruel and beyond and passed through more almond orchards and empty landscapes.

The location for the village of Alcala de Jucar was spectacular - set deep in a limestone valley and overlooked by a beautiful castle it made for an enjoyable half day. The steep streets beneath the castle have many cave houses set deep in to the rock - ideal for winter warmth and summer cooling - and there is one incorporated in to the castle as well which was fascinating.

 

The village of Lezuza west of Albacete was my base for two nights - the aire was a large old dusty football pitch with plenty of space and no other occupants. From the village a 40 mile mountain bike route was signed so I took a photo of the board, translated the route on to my GPS and set off for a memorable ride through empty farmland passing many uninhabited dwellings and not seeing a sole. The route used various tracks and trails and offered expansive views before returning me to the quiet parking once more. I used the facilities to fill with water and deal with the bathroom before loading the bikes on again and spending a comfortable night with the heating in use again as inland was much cooler at night.

A few miles away I parked at an old station to ride a length of the VV D'Alcaraz which skirts the mountain range of the same name before pulling up at a rather small aire in Riopar alongside a Dutch van. The following day I took a drive through the Sierra D'Alcaraz following a very quiet minor road and then another through Bogarra and Ayna. Whilst stopping for lunch on the forest road down to Molinicos the Dutch guy turned up on his scooter and we enjoyed a good chat over coffee in the sun. I stayed the night in Molinicos which was the start of a good walk up in the hills on a hot day with a ruined village towards the end providing a snapshot of a lost way of life.

Heading inland again I stopped above Ruidera in an aire amongst pine trees by the Penarroya reservoir with a dramatic castle overlooking the flat water. It was a lovely spot with a good sunset.

The wetland bird reserve of the Tablas de Daimiel is suffering from a lowering water table caused by agricultural boreholes so whilst much reduced in area it still attracts a wide variety of birdlife which could be seen from the various walks that crossed the reserve on duckboards. At dusk the birds were very vocal but it soon became a very peaceful place to spend the night with just one other van parked nearby.

A stunning drive through the Sierra de Cabaneros brought me to an unusual aire - it was fairly new, fully fenced in and watched over by CCTV. Payment for water, waste or electricity plus a nightly fee would have been around £10 but as I had no need for these services I pushed on eventually parking at the old station in Aldenueva de Barbarroya for, you've guessed it, another VV. With the rest of the afternoon still available I knocked out 20 odd miles up to Calera y Chozas before returning for a quiet night. On the Saturday I headed south to the final station before a long tunnel under the Sierra de Guadelupe which is closed off although a Camino Natural (rural track) does carry on over the Puerto de San Vicente to the monastery at Guadelupe. Back at A de B a party was starting across the line at a house and a few local kids turned up to drink a few beers right next to me but all was well and it was quiet by late evening.

 

On arriving at Logrosan I realised it was another aire I had used before and indeed we had cycled the VV before as I recognised the huge solar thermal power station and long concrete canal structure as I headed south. Storks were nesting on the poles and pylons, cranes in their hundreds were prowling the fields, buzzards and kites floated overhead and I saw three otters cross the path ahead of me as I returned in the late afternoon to find three other vans pulled in amongst the trees - all UK plates. One had managed to damage his awning so they were all busy trying to repair it so I left them to it and created some very successful chickpea and onion burgers for tea.

Today I have moved on to Trujillo for one or two nights and expect to be at my friend Gary's small campsite near Marvao in Portugal by Wednesday. I've not seen him for 3 years so it will be a good catch up after which I will look at the options for crossing to Morocco by late February. After 6 weeks in Spain the Brexit clock is slowly counting down and I will need to focus on my options.

Anyway an update from Portugal next week will follow - meanwhile click here for more pics.

SEA, SUN, SAND AND SNOW

After gratefully receiving my Covid booster jab in mid December I joined friends for the Badminton Club Christmas meal near Brecon after spending a couple of days near Crickhowell on a simple site with no facilities but an EHU. From here I had taken the canal down to Pontypool and then returned via the old railway line cycle track to Blaenafon and its industrial heritage before dropping back via the Clydach Gorge. As my digital Covid pass updated more quickly than I had expected it to I decided to look at options for travelling abroad and decided to book a sailing to Santander from Portsmouth to avoid France which was restricting UK travellers. I also booked a decent cabin so the fare was some £700 one way as it was peak time but I figured I'd be spending at least £100 a week just to sit still in the UK.

Thus I had to nip back to Sheffield for some extra bits and pieces and Mandy's bike in the hope that she will be able to join me eventually. On my return south I had to deviate back to Brecon as my new style EHIC card had arrived - this is a rather provocative item in my opinion as it rather pushes the Union Jack in its design. I joined Crad and family for another excellent takeaway from the village owned Shoemaker's Arms and touched base with his elder lad who is off to seek fame and fortune in London once more.

On my way over to the New Forest I called at Portishead where an old friend is enjoying converting a very nice LWB transit in to a camper - he had made good progress with insulating and lining and was now considering cabinet and power options.

Near Ringwood I arrived at the beautiful woodland site we had used in the summer and paid for my 8 day stay in advance as I wished effectively to isolate from the general public so as to minimise any risk of Covid that would curtail my plans. Tucked away amongst the pines there was little solar but the new battery fitted recently seemed to cope OK. I cycled out most days including one over to Nomansland for an outside pub lunch in the unseasonably mild weather. Unfortunately on my return with 12 miles to go and an hour of daylight left I tore my rear tyre on a flint to the extent that even a new tube wouldn't last. I limped to a near deserted car park and approached two ladies who had just finished litter picking and one very kindly agreed to run me home after I had explained my predicament. I gave her friend one of my cards by way of good faith and locked the bike to a sturdy rail. Sarah explained their work on the way back and was delighted that the New Forest District Council had cleared up fly tipping I reported online on a Sunday by Monday afternoon - they are responsive due to the possible impact on wildlife. She dropped me at the end of the track and I hope to repay her kindness by joining her group for a day on my return. I nipped back for the bike that evening which gave the battery a quick top up.

The following day I struggled to fit my spare tyre due to the cold weather so nipped in to Ringwood where a friendly motorcycle dealer used his airline to pop the tyre on tightly. I picked up fuel for my genny as well and returned to the peaceful spot - a pair of deer slid past at dusk but otherwise nothing stirred. I ran the genny that night to ensure everything was fully topped up before my sailing - it is a silent runner and runs about 4/5 hours on a couple of litres of petrol powering everything if high demand appliances are used at different times. A ride along the old railway track to Lymington was lovely and I considered that if my Europe plan stalled I would go over to the IoW.

 

However nothing untoward occured so on the Monday I swopped my Calor gas cylinders for the 3 Campinggaz ones I had collected from Jan and Ian and left them tucked behind the site owner's barn for future collection before heading round to Portsmouth. In Fareham I pulled in to a large Tesco car park with good 4G coverage and began to complete the rest of the Spanish Travel Health Form. You can complete it in advance with your sailing details but can only apply for the Covid Q code with your UK Certificate 48 hours before arrival in Spain - with a 36 hour sailing this leaves a tight timeframe. Anyway after some effort all was done and I received the email with my code, downloaded it and then printed everything off as a back up. The printer doesn't see much use but is invaluable for things like this - as it runs off a small plug in 75w inverter it can be used at any time.

Later that evening I slid between two larger outfits on the dockside and slept well, excited at the prospect of getting away for the first time in over two years. We were all loaded by 9am with no paperwork or other issues and after a brief delay whilst 3 tugs eased a container ship out of our way we were off down the Solent passing our two aircraft carriers with their 24 hour police boat patrols, the historic dockyards and of course the ever impressive Spinnaker tower.

I explored this the Brittany Ferries newest vessel and took a much needed shower in my neat little cabin. I enjoyed a good breakfast before standing out on deck as the IoW slid by but as we left its shelter the wind and waves picked up and by mid afternoon the outside decks had been closed for safety reasons. The crossing became so unpleasant that I retired to my cabin to go to bed and watch the telly trying to avoid repeats of both sit coms and my breakfast. For the next 18 hours the boat rolled violently as huge (9m apparently) cross waves crashed against the sides of the hull making the whole boat shake ominously.

I emerged around lunchtime on the Wednesday with zero appetite but enjoyed the Picos D'Europa appear on the horizon before we slid in to Santander in calm seas with people sunbathing and swimming on the beaches. We were soon unloaded and for some reason I was waved past the long queue and was soon on the road out and heading towards the Cantabrian mountains for an aire some 30 miles away. Unfortunately at about 4,500' the tiny mountain road was blocked by snow requiring a somewhat nerve jangling multi point turn above a very sheer drop. So Plan B was a night in Lierganes on the aire by the station which gave me the idea to catch a train back in to Santander to see more of a city that most people just transit through. The £5 return ticket gave me a 40 minute journey in to the centre passing the shipyard where two of the other BF vessels I have sailed on were getting their winter overhaul. It was hot and sunny and I was tempted by the small shuttle ferry across the bay to Somo for a good view of Santander's waterfront and an excellent lunch. On my return I walked out to the headland passing sunbathers and swimmers before arriving at a small marine park where a seal appeared glued to an almost vertical rock face, completely oblivious to me and the waves that washed up to him.

 

From Lierganes I took the main road over the mountains that was open and turned down to Perdura at the Embalse de Ebro. At the old station parking was offered for £5 a night including EHU which given the cold nights seemed a good idea so I paid for 3 when the caretaker arrived and wandered in to the village to find a shop - however only a small butchers and bakers continue to trade there but it gave me the basics and over the next couple of days I cycled this section of the Santander Mediterrano Via Verde a planned cycle route on the old railway that will one day cross Northern Spain over some 700 miles. The original line was intended to remove the need for freight to travel right round the Iberian Peninsula but when all but 24 miles was completed the project was shelved as it was felt it would be uneconomic given the arrival of container shipping. The 4 mile Engana tunnel nearby was finished but track never laid and its eventual reopening will be a major step in the final completion of the VV plan.

I moved on to Ona which had a huge monastery and some very pretty Christmas lights as well as the VV south towards Burgos and an excellent walk in to the limestone mountains above the town. At a high pond perhaps 40 vultures were gathered around the muddy water but soon took flight as I arrived. I was glad to have the 1:25,000 maps on my Satmap Active 20 as although well out of date for urban areas and new major roads they do show all the mountain tracks and trails if not the actual routes suggested as walks.

Burgos was my next destination as I needed a launderette and found one near the aire with free wifi so enjoyed the warmth and catch up as my wash was done. The aire was also the site of a weekly market and 10 kilos of oranges set me back 5 euros : about £4. The following day I cycled along the river to admire and enter the impressive cathedral before picking up the VV heading south from the old station. The cuttings still held a hard frost but on passing through a tunnel south facing slopes were warm and sunny. On leaving Burgos I called at a huge Carrefour for a large shop and treated myself to a new bluetooth speaker which will enhance the music, Spotify and BBC IPlayer downloads I have brought along.

In the Sierra de La Demanda another aire - no more than a flat parking area with no facilities provided a spot for two nights as I again took the VV around the Embalse de Uzquiza and returned via the quiet roads - it was a Saturday so the local hunters had been dashing about in their 4x4's with trailers of dogs taking tracks high in to the snow capped mountains. The nights were very cold but the Eber managed very well running all night with the new leisure battery receiving enough solar by day to keep everything in order.

 

At Hontoria del Pinar my initial plan was to do more of the SMVV but signs for the Canon del Rio Lobos caught my eye and the following day I set off on 15 miles of superb single track that followed the limestone gorge south under towering crags, crossing dry fords and the odd set of stepping stones, a few bridges and some sections of walkway before I emerged at an amazing chapel surrounding by lofty cliffs with vultures soaring. A steady climb out of the gorge brought me on to the plateau before I picked up the VV for a return to base and another very cold night. The following day I took the VV through the 50,000 acre pine forest where at one time the line had been used to export the timbers and a gantry crane was still standing at the highest point of the line. I was also intrigued to see that manual signals made by Westinghouse in Chippenham over a hundred years ago were still in working order.

A beautiful parking spot by a ruined chapel at Calatanazor gave me the chance to walk in to a village I'd visited once before in 2014 - whilst the traditional buildings, quaint streets and unusual chimneys are unchanged the castle has had some work done and it is now possible to reach the top of the keep for some amazing views. A friendly Alsation adopted me and came right back to the van presenting a range of sticks to be thrown.

The urban aire in Calatayud promised slightly milder overnight temperatures and I took a walk round admiring the ornate towers of the local churches and climbing up to the castle overlooking the town. The old town is a warren of tiny streets and I met a small dumper truck delivering buckets of oak logs to the tiny houses as storks nesting high above clattered their beaks noisily. Many of the larger buildings seemed to be collapsing and as most people now live on the outskirts in flats with parking and modern utilities easily available I wonder how long the old centres will survive.

 

Daroca further on faced similar issues although seemed more sure of its future with the buildings better maintained and more fully occupied, all sheltering under the 14 towers that dot the 4km long walls. I walked the open sections under a hot sun  before moving on to Cretas near Teruel that allegedly had a Campinggaz supplier which proved inaccurate as the location was just waste ground. I stayed on the aire anyway only to be woken early by what I presumed was scaffolding being thrown around early next morning. Once the sun was up around 08.30 so was I, only to find the weekly market carrying on around me! Nobody seemed to mind and I hadn't been sold so all was well.

A CEPSA filling station yielded two cylinders of the elusive gas at half the UK cost and with diesel 25% cheaper than home I was good to go once more so headed up in to the Sierra de Gudar stopping at the best preserved fort in Aragon at Mora de Rubielos. The chilly ticket seller seemed pleased to see me and I enjoyed a couple of hours exploring the various rooms and buildings and the recreations of various mediaeval weaponry in the extensive structure. On my way north I got distracted by a side road that would take me a different way so climbed high before descending only to find that the village road (and the only one at that) had just been newly concreted so had to retrace my steps and continue the original way to Monteagudo Del Castillo. Here whilst water and the WC drop were located by the small playing field the actual overnight spots were dotted around the village and were I felt intrusive so I dropped back to a nearby alternative at El Pobo high on an open plain and nicely located on the edge of the tiny village. The adjacent models of prehistoric animals made for quiet if unusual company and after dark I walked in to the deserted village for a look round. The one bar was open and had a good fire going so I stopped for a beer before returning to the van under a superb moon and starry sky.

 

Moving on through Cantavieja and Mirambel, both beautiful old villages with traditional stone houses, narrow streets and dominant castles I eventually pulled up on a rather scruffy aire at Alcaniz. The town is overlooked by its old castle which is now a top hotel or Parador which I walked up to for its remarkable views. Affluent Spanish couples were enjoying the evening sun and opportunity to pose and at £75 a night we might even be tempted one day. La  Fresenada was a real treat with its  ruined chapel on one rocky outcrop and a castle on another, then more stunning mountain roads took me over to Valderrobres where the parking down by the river was perfect with the clear waters reflecting the old stone bridge and houses. I walked up to the church and castle before deciding to take advantage of the free city wifi and update the blog. Unfortunately after two hours work the wifi had crashed and nothing had been saved so especially for you I have just done it all again here in Tortosa so please enjoy and have a look at  the additional pictures here - perhaps a few too many but it has been a few weeks since my last post, lots has been happening and your evenings may well still be long.

 

Early Winter Excitement

Over the last few days of the late autumn fine weather I had planned to catch a Heart of Wales line train from Llandovery to Swansea but it was cancelled so I headed off round the Llyn Brianne valley only to find that road closed due to a bridge replacement. The long diversion round through Llanwrytyd took me through Abergwesyn and over the excellent Devil's Staircase. As the road through to Tregaron was also closed I came down to the Llyn Brianne from the north without a soul in sight and parked high above the reservoir for a peaceful night.

 

The following morning I cycled in to Moel Prysgau bothy where all was well although deep brash on the top track made for a tedious mile or so of progress. The bothy was in good order : new barriers, some tactical felling by NRW, a concerted effort to ensure that the barriers are locked and regular visits by the MOs seems to have eliminated many of our misuse problems. NRW are also replacing all padlocks and issuing numbered security keys to authorised personnel so that should help further.

 

A night at Teifi Pools gave me the opportunity to walk in to Claerddu bothy, managed by Elan Valley Trust who rebuilt Lluest Cwm Bach for us almost ten years ago. As Claerddu is now looking a bit tired with graffiti and an accumulation of rubbish the Wales MBA team are in the process of arranging a spring clean next year - in the meantime we hope that EVT will install a barrier and liase with the local rural crime teams as this combined approach has achieved good results elsewhere.

On my way north to Sheffield I called in at the home of one of our longer standing MBA volunteers who was at the end of his battle with pancreatic cancer, it was good to talk with him, go over some photos that the team had sent me and remember the many good times, it is sad to report that he passed away within a fortnight  : 'Dangerous' - one of the good ones.

We called briefly in York to see my aunt, uncle and cousin before managing an unexpected rendezvous at Scotch Corner with Mandy's brother heading down to Sheffield to visit family. From there we crossed the Pennines and in a thick fog followed the old Coal Road from Garsdale Head Station over to Dent Station which at 1150' ASL is the highest station in England but still some 200' lower than Corrour in Scotland.

I had stayed in the station car park over the summer whilst tackling the Pennine Bridleway and took a leaflet for the Snow Huts, hence our arrival at this remarkable place high above, and four miles from, Dent village.

The single storey building sat just yards from the line and provided 2 superb holiday lets. We were in Hut One near to where the old signal box would have stood and soon had the place toasty warm with fuel provided for both stoves, underfloor heating and plenty of hot water. Almost immediately the first passenger train announced its arrival with a whistle and the bright  carriages slowly slid by. Later freight trains carrying timber and aggregate passed in each direction but the snug and well appointed building was sealed against them and the strong winds blowing.

The next day we explored the station and its surroundings - the old station as with most on this the Settle to Carlisle Line has also been preserved and turned in to holiday accommodation but the station master's house is privately owned. The guy behind the Dent project, Robin Hughes, has written an excellent book about his restoration and the hut even entertained Michael Portillo during one of his Great Railway Journeys. Robin had interests in New Zealand before this scheme and is now developing a retirement village in Windsor but still returns to Dent and its isolation from the phone and internet. We caught the train down to Skipton for market day and enjoyed cold but bright weather - again I had passed through here on the PBW earlier in the year

Sunday saw us walk down to Dent and enjoy a good lunch in the cafe by the small visitor centre which had a sunny patio. The final pull up from Cowgill left us ready for a cosy night in with a good sunset and moon.

We caught the train to Kirkby Stepen for the Monday market, lovely just to be able to walk to the platform in two minutes but at KS it is a good 40 minutes walk in to the town where the market was modest to put it kindly. Back at the station a guy got off the northbound train and struggled with a full barrel of beer over the footbridge before loading it in to the boot of his small car - no idea.

 

 

 

Tuesday was a day walking above the track via the PBW and down to Blea Moor tunnel before another ascent from Cowgill whilst on the Wednesday we did a circuit from Dent to Carlisle, around the Cumbrian Coast passing St Bees Head and Sellafield to Barrow in Furness, across to Carnforth and finally a return via High Bentham to Settle and back to Dent - all the trains and connections ran to time and it was to quote a phrase 'a grand day out'...

 

 

 

Our final day was wet and wild but we took the train down to Settle, walked up on to Castlebergh Crags for the views over the town and then enjoyed the Museum of Craven Life in the Grade 1 listed Folly. The 3 Peaks Cycle Shop did a good lunch at a remarkable price before we got the train back up to Horton in Ribblesdale and jumped off to visit the impressive Ribblehead Viaduct in less than favourable conditions. However it underlined how stoic the several thousand navvies and their families must have been to work and live up there in the shanty towns for many years.

The Station Inn provided a warm room and cold beer whilst we waited for our train back and a lovely final evening in the hut - the strong wind meant the bedside stove burnt rather too strongly leaving us sweltering.

 

The Fat Lamb at Ravenstonedale has free hard pitches for four vans and on a cold windy night we enjoyed excellent food, despite the actual presentation, surrounded by motoring memorabilia as the pub hosts many classic car rallies and owners meetings.

Our annual (Covid permitting) fortnight in Langdale began with a large food shop in Penrith before we arrived at the lodge and took off for a swim in the stylish pool.

Our friend Penny arrived for a few days on the Sunday so we walked in to Ambleside over Loughrigg Fell and were amazed to see a mountain biking couple with the mum pulling a trailer containing a toddler descending the rough track.

Over at Ullswater we caught the ferry from Pooley Bridge and returned via the shore path on a fresh but sunny day and were rewarded with the sight of a pair of red squirrrels chasing around a line of pine trees.
 

The Drunken Duck provided an excellent lunch but we would have preferred just a snack or sandwiches and returned having passed the house where my grandfather had spent many contented years of his retirement.

An indulgent evening in the spa finished off her stay and as she left on the Thursday other friends were heading north from Bristol.

 

 

 

 

A windy day with low cloud on the Friday kept us off the hills but we enjoyed exploring the old slate workings of Tilberthwaite descending deep in to an old quarry and then up at the Betsy Crag mine daring each other to cross the single span slate bridge in windy conditions. After returning via Tilberthwaite Ghyll we dropped in to the Three Shires pub before returning after dark using head torches.

 

 

Storm Arwen blew through overnight and just as Tony from Blackburn arrived to join us with tales of fallen trees and the Estate Landrover being crushed all power in the area ceased.

Our plan was a day walk anyway and we set off up the slope of Silver How with the sun on our backs. As we ascended we reached the snow line and began to find the going tricky, particularly once we reached the ridge and felt the full force of the northerly wind. It was bitterly cold and hard to stay upright but after a couple of hours hard going we reached Stickle Tarn where conditions were ferocious. Jan took a nasty tumble as we descended the steep track with verglas making for cautious progress.

 

Once below the snow and out of the wind we stopped for lunch in the sun before reaching Dungeon Ghyll where all the lights were still out. A steady return along the Great Langdale Valley brought us back to the lodge where eveything was still off and the staff had no idea of a likely reconnection time.

Fortunately we all had head torches, there was still hot water in the tanks and I had come up this year in the camper so was able to provide additional torches, power banks and cook the excellent food that Sue had provided on the gas cooker. Marcus and Sandra had joined us so we enjoyed a memorable evening after which we retired to the van grateful for the diesel heater and the following morning produced a cooked breakfast for all. As we were all somewhat battered by Saturday's walk we took an easy stroll round the estate and were amazed at the number and size of trees that had been blown over - apart from the Landrover there was no significant damage to any lodges or buildings despite some very close shaves. A game of Monopoly entertained us but with the power still off the lodge got a bit too cold for comfort so the five of us piled in to the van for a cosy evening of quizzes, crosswords and hot soup and rolls. The estate restaurant had sourced a small generator and was trying to provide drinks for other lodge guests but many had left or been deterred from arriving. Large amounts of smoked salmon, cheese and other goodies were also being given out as all the chillers and fridges were failing.

On the Monday our guests packed up just as the power was restored so we spent the morning tidying up, changing beds and then went for another walk round to assess the damage. The groundsmen had been hard at work clearing the roads but some of the hung up trees would require specialist skills and judging by the widespread damage across a huge area the tree surgeons will be busy for weeks.

 

With pool and other facilities yet to come back on stream we enjoyed the comfortable lodge, finished the game of Monopoly and walked in to Chapel Stile to admire the old church and reflect on the local lads who had perished in the two world wars. The Burlington Slate works have suspended their quarrying and concentrated on crushing the huge mountains of waste in to a usable aggregate for paths and weed suppression and I noticed a considerable reduction in the once extensive deposits. The on site washing machine saw to our laundry - always handy to get it done and dried in the winter months.

A bus in to Ambleside gave us the chance to get some new walking boots and enjoy an excellent veggie lunch in the small Ghandi's cafe before walking through to Rydal and back over to Elterwater. The back lane was blocked in several places and these would have to be removed before a crane could be brought in to support a monster pine that lay across the roof of a large property.

On the Thursday we took the back lane to Little Langdale and passed around another monster pine that had taken out the telephone poles and would have toppled just a few hours after we walked that way the previous Friday. A path climbed up on to Lingmoor Fell with views south to Blackpool Tower across Morecambe Bay and south east to looming Pendle. After squeezing through The Needle we dropped in to the Great Langdale campsite before a return to base and a long awaited swim.

 

On our last day we took a circuitous route across to Chesters at Skelwith Bridge where we ate a delicious veggie lunch outside before returning to the Brimstone Spa for a final indulgent night in the various heat and steam rooms and the magical pool which reaches outside through sliding doors. I always hugely appreciate our good fortune in staying here and it is certainly a different experience from van life.

 A very soggy Saturday hastened our departure and we drove north to enjoy the entertaining Keswick Pencil Museum with its history of the local graphite mining, links to the SOE in WW2 and the Bond movies as well as a history of the manufacturing now relocated to Workington on the coast. The large art deco factory still stands and will I hope soon be repurposed for perhaps affordable housing, so vital for the area's young people.

In sleet and strong winds we headed over to Penrith for a night with Marcus and Sandra - their new barn coversion adding to an already comfortable house. We both enjoyed a good tour of his extensive model railway layout and Sandra's excellent cooking. As usual we kipped in the van with the heater keeping us warm and dry, sleeping well in the quiet location.

After a good breakfast Marcus and I had some fun knocking up a Go Pro video with the camera mounted on various locos and carriages before reluctantly we started our journey south after 3 very successful and varied weeks away.

I have returned to mid Wales sitting out Storm Barra en route and dealing with some paperwork relating to the new AED sourced for the Wales Mountain Bothies Team. We hope of course that it will never be used but as most of our volunteers are long in the tooth if not hair it seems a prudent purchase.

In reality it will sit for much of the year in a volunteer's house so may come in handy far from the bothy scene.

I am waiting for my boster jab in 48 hours time which will two weeks later perhaps permit my escape down to Spain and eventually Portugal but almost a fortnight needs to elapse before travel and as I have no intention of travelling over the busy Christmas/New Year period will with luck get a Santander bound ferry in mid January.

Anyway watch this space and if you've nothing better to do click this SPACE