NINETY AND OUT

 After returning to Asseiceira I gave the the van a good clear out and tucked the bikes away before heading across Central Portugal on a sunny Monday evening heading towards Lisbon. My route avoided the toll motorways and brought me in from the north after a night at the large aire in Coruche which is next to a Lidl and provides free hook up with no fee. This would explain why it was almost full and I noticed a few mainly French vans with quads on trailers and the camel/palm tree stickers that indicated to me that they were also waiting in the hope that sea crossings to Morocco would resume shortly.

Lisbon airport is pretty straightforward and after just two circuits of the pick up zone I spotted Mandy heading across with her luggage. Within minutes we were crossing the superb Vasco da Gama bridge and heading east - there was loads to catch up on of course and we stopped briefly at the Montargil reservoir to stretch our legs - it's a lovely spot and I have overnighted there in previous years.

It seemed very surreal when we all caught up back at Asseiceira and after an unusual wet start to Wednesday morning we set off on a favourite walk to the old Roman steps that cross a small river and passes through the rocky land dotted with cork oak, some displaying the red trunks seen after the year's harvest.

We enjoyed riding the local tracks and trails that I had recce'd previously, crossed the odd stream without incident and enjoyed the custard tarts at Bernadino's in Beira. A meal in Santo Antonio on the Friday was excellent with the good company of Gary and Joao before we headed in to Castelo de Vide on the Saturday to see the market, climb up to the castle and revisit the small chapel that looks across the valley. Here I noted that a new via ferrata had been installed which looked fairly straightforward so we decided to return in a day or two and took off for a relaxing afternoon in the hot sun down by the Povoa lake. We took a small track down to the shore where we could enjoy the peace and quiet with the yellow mimosa flowers creating a stunning scene.

A beautiful sunset from the top of Marvao's remarkable castle brought to an end a long overdue visit to a part of Portugal that I am immensely fond of and feel very fortunate to have been able to return to.

After a final day at the campsite we packed up and returned to the vf. I've had the kit for a decade now but it has never seen the light of day so was still in good order. After a few silly photos I then set off in earnest to enjoy an hour or so of safe but hugely entertaining ascent with traverses and an exposed section that merely confirmed that climbing is not for me. I shot a Go Pro video and took some stills as the location and views are stunning before we returned to Povoa for a couple of nights down another narrow track with a perfect spot surrounded by yet more mimosa.

The following day we cycled up to Montelvao who's newly painted water tower was being muddied up by dozens of nesting house martins. A coffee in the small village bar set us on our way for a long loop exploring more rural tracks and visiting the Meadas menhir before returning for a quiet night. The actual aire above the lake is still closed so a few other vans were dotted around the shore and a Spanish guy seemed to be living in a makeshift tent nearby. Storks were nesting in both the trees and on top of electricity poles and a variety of waterfowl also arrived at the lake at dusk. A tiny bright green Mediterranean Tree Frog was poorly camouflaged on a dry branch but had gone by morning.

The uncertainty over Morocco opening persisted so we decided to head generally east and enjoy some of the places I had visited on my way down and explore others. A quick walk round Caceres and lunch in the main square preceded a return to Logrosan where the small aire has water and waste facilities and is tucked amongst trees on the edge of the town. We walked in and saw a group singing and raising awareness about International Womens day before walking back to the van. Early next morning we were away early to follow the Via Verde towards the thermal solar power station passing the old station buildings and then turning off to a large reservoir. This is linked to two others by a large water channel that contours around the local landscape for many miles. We followed its sinuous route back to the two reservoirs, climbed a short hill and then descended rapidly to Logrosan after 50 tough miles.

 

The monastery at Guadalupe could only be visited by tour so we tagged on to a Spanish group understanding very little of course but still being astonished at the extravagance of the decorated chapels and altars. A planned lunch in the square evaporated as having brought us menus and drinks the waiter studiously ignored us for an hour so we departed and headed east staying at a small picnic area below an old water mill.

The following day we came across a honey festival in a small town and were tempted in to buying some delicious chocolate and two lovely wooden nutcrackers.

Skirting south and east of Madrid brought us to the small village of Brea de Tajo where we parked on a lofty spot adjacent to the bull ring with a grand view over the plain. From here we took a rural track to cut across to the VV Del Tajuna but following the recent rain it became muddy to the point of unrideable and then worse as the remarkable clay soils completely  jammed both wheels on both bikes.

We managed to carry both to a firmer track and at the road picked out what we could before down in Orusco a car wash enabled us to get the crud off and after a coffee with friendly locals ride up to pretty Ambite. We then headed south to the junction with another VV and returned to Brea for a quiet night.

We stayed on a campsite for two nights at Canamares to do laundry and other domestic essentials and experienced a strangely exhilarating atmosphere as we cycled back down the impressive Priego gorge with gusty winds and a bizarre light, we extended the ride by following the old road up to a col and zipping back through the new tunnel and then following a side road with a river based swimming zone and another deep gorge beyond. A spectacular looking VF in the gorge was closed for maintenance but would be worth a return visit one day. Back at the site the wind had destroyed our table and the light had turned an unusual yellowy orange. The showers had a wood burner in each room so were very cosy and we settled in for a quiet night. The area is known for the production of willow for weaving and sheaves of the newly cut crop were standing drying in the fields or stockpiled in the farm yards.

Moving on we came to the remarkable rock formations of the 'Enchanted City' which would have been better in bright sunlight but by then we had learnt that much of Spain and Portugal was being affected by a huge Saharan dust storm which had blown in - this explained the electric atmosphere and unusual lighting of recent days. The rocks had eroded in to some remarkable shapes and were huge - ' The Ships' were as big as a ferry and the animal shapes surprisingly convincing.

We arrived at tiny Trasmoz which has one bar only open at weekends, no shop and a small church but a new aire with all facilities, marked concrete pitches and even an area of astroturf by each space. Water for one euro and electricity for four convinced us to stay the following day during some very wet and windy weather with a quiet day in the van passing very enjoyably.

It cleared up the following day although temperatures were still low as we climbed the road beneath Moncayo to 6,000' before a fast decent in to Tarazona where a coffee in a warm bar soon had us thawed out. From here the easy VV de Tarazona took us along to Tudela where we found a good cafe run by a hard working Chinese family. Retracing our route to Tarazona we took a side road back to Trasmoz arriving back after 50 odd rewarding miles with much ascent.

 

It was a short run to Arguedas where we stopped on the large patch of waste ground on the edge of the village which serves as the overflow to the official aire which is small and quite tight for the larger vans.The wild flowers made it look lovely and there was plenty of room beneath the cliffs that contained the remarkable cave houses occupied until surprisingly recently. We walked up to explore and were tickled pink that friends had also visited the very same kitchen with its oven and hidden bedrooms.

 From Arguedas we cycled up to the access point for the Bardenas Reales (Badlands) which are a unique geological feature in a semi desert area that has featured in various films over the years. We cycled down to the first feature on a sunny but windy day and then rode round the perimeter road with a stiff head wind in parts and the uneven surface making it quite hard work. However the scenery was stunning and we stopped for lunch near the military base that occupies the central no go zone.

Back at Arguedas we walked in to town and the following day cycled up in to the surrounding hills with a Mediterranean Ladder snake providing interest.

Olite's aire was ideal for visiting the beautiful old town with its central square dominated by a very extensive castle that we enjoyed exploring  - it was in good condition and well worth a visit.

 

The aire at Sos Del Rey Catolico was on the edge of another delightful old town which we enjoyed exploring before heading off to visit the castle and church at Javier and then the Monastery at Leyre.

At the latter we obtained the key for access to the impressive crypt and then the church above. By pure chance as we lingered a little longer twenty or so of the Gregorian monks emerged silently from a side door, took their places below the altar and began a wonderfully moving series of chants and hymns.

We returned to SDRC for the night and then starting at Liedana where we had shopped followed the short VV through the impressive Foz de Lumbier Gorge to Lumbier itself, seeing a rather unusual T5 camper conversion and meeting a British couple with a very nice looking T3 conversion.

After moving on to an excellent newly improved aire with bike washing and a service point complete with track pump and tools at Irurtzun right on the VVs Del Plazaola we cycled up to and then through the remarkable Leitza Tunnel which had some beautiful limestone formations mid way along where a stream ran out of the rocks. Back in town I had a much needed haircut and was able to chat a little with the young Moroccan guy who ran the place - by now of course my plans to go there were well and truly scuppered and we had a ferry home from Bilbao a week later.

We next moved on to Leitza itself and cycled back to the north end of the tunnel from the old station which seemed to be OK to park at overnight. We then headed north to Andoain to enjoy an ice cream before returning along the same route as it passed through numerous tunnels and along various valleys.

 

Our final VV began near the French border at Irun and headed east in to the foothills of the Pyrenees in Basque country to Doneztebe. Flooding had washed away some of the route but we passed through Bera and Sunbilla from where we could see a mountain top on fire which fortunately looked as if it wouldn't spread far. 

Back at  Irun we drove up to the recreation area at Enterria where families were packing up after barbecues and picnics to leave just a number of other vans and ourselves parked up for the night. It was a quiet spot and we made use of the water and waste facilities before leaving the following morning as the day's visitors began to arrive.

We started following the coast road round towards Bilbao which was busy on a sunny Sunday but took us through some lovely port villages giving us a chance to have a few hours on a beach and walk round Ondarroa and Lekeito before staying inland at a monastery that provides simple accommodation for pilgrims on the Santiago de Compostella route. We were the only occupants of the car park in marked contrast to the busier aires down on the coast.

 

 

Monday round the coast was much quieter and we enjoyed a light lunch at Elantoxbe where two artists were brightening up the harbour shelter before the sat nav expertly brought us to the aire for Bilbao high above the city and conveniently placed for the bus down to the centre. We enjoyed the Guggenheim and its environs, walked through the smart shopping areas and caught a late bus back for our final night of the trip.

 

With plenty of time to spare we headed to the port stopping en route to get laundry done and look in vain for a gas supplier - we will revert to Calor in the UK but I had hoped to take 3 full Camping Gaz ones home ready for next time.

Passport and security checks at the port were easy enough and we joined the lines of vehicles waiting to board the new Brittany Ferries LNG powered vessel the Salamanca on its maiden return crossing to Portsmouth. There is new infrastructure for refuelling as the ship carries 800,000 litres stored at -162 degrees C - somewhat sobering but I guess the way the world of heavy duty engines is going.

When I had booked a few weeks earlier the best cabins had gone but our internal four berther was fine and we had taken out tickets for the Commodore Cafe which was a good decision as unlimited snacks and drinks were on offer plus a good view of the seas ahead. It was a calm crossing for which I was very grateful and we enjoyed the experience immensely. Some folk were a bit greedy with the food and wine on offer and guarded their prime seats by the windows jealously. The tickets included the evening meal and breakfast, both of which were staggered to maximise space but this resulted in some long queues, something they will need to address. We passed the Isle of Wight as the sun set and docked on time after dark in Portsmouth where again customs and border control were simple enough.

An hour or so later we rolled quietly down the track to our little hide away site near Ringwood arriving just before midnight to sleep soundly in this quiet and secluded spot.

I found it very humbling to have been able to get way at all after the horrors of the pandemic and felt hugely privileged given the events in Ukraine to have been away and returned safely. The Brexit 90 in 180 rule seems ludicrous and was yet another little mentioned consequence of the decision to leave - I as yet see no benefit to the UK in that decision in this and many other areas of life, the economy and business. There are work arounds and I am making plans to get away again by late June with plenty already going on now I'm back - a further blog will cover events to date shortly.

Pics here as per usual.