The Start of the Long Way Home.....

Evidence of Morocco's drive to improve the infrastructure in rural areas manifested itself in the improved access to FBJ reducing the piste to around 3 miles and judging by the drain pipes lying around further improvements are in the pipeli.......

 

Thus I was soon out on to a surfaced road that last time I was here was a rough track to various small hamlets. It climbed to a spot above the roaring Atlantic where I saw two lorries releasing their cargoes of racing pigeons which reminded me of a ringed bird that had been hopping about at the top of the Tizzi n'Test last week. In the distance lonely Foum Assaka was partially shrouded in the sea mist that rolls in most days but burns off as the sun heats things up and I descended at speed down the new road that only a few years ago had been a decidedly tricky track. Out at the beach the skeletal remains of abandoned houses gave an almost forlorn air and I was sorry to see that the small cafe we had used before was locked up and swept by sand. I parked up and walked south passing some very rough huts of plastic and fishing nets again half buried in the sands before returning and walking up to Le Rayon Vert which was as rustic and cute a set up you could wish for. A sea terrace, brightly decorated rooms and a lovely dining and lounge area made this a place to come back to but this time I only stopped for tea before returning along the dusty access track. Roaring engines announced the arrival of a number of Belgian off road karters, all travelling at a dangerous speed and one appearing round a corner on two wheels and requiring a quick avoidance manoeuvre by yours truly - they received an appropriate international sign language rebuke.

I decided to try and return via the valley floor to FBJ and soon afterwards met the trekking group and before long was in a terrific valley with an old kasbha, cemetery and associated building and some remarkable geology. However after a couple of miles the valley became too rough with deep channels and thick if stunted tree growth so I followed the Sat Map's indicated track up and out for a couple of miles uphill before reaching a junction where another track headed south and mostly downhill back to the ruined fort. Here I spotted a lovely owl at sunset and watched the shepherds run their flocks in to the safety of the old fort's semi ruined stables for the night - I'm not sure what predators lurk round here, perhaps it's just to stop them roaming too far whilst the shepherds rest up after what must be long hot days in this desolate landscape.

 

As I had expected the Belgians seen earlier and quite a few more were parked up at the site and seemed to be part of a rally with a large 4x4 support truck and a medical Landcruiser. It was good business for the site and they were consuming plenty of food and booze but being a) Ramadan and b) a country where alcohol is not consumed by the locals I felt this, plus their tearing up of the landscape oblivious to the signs of nature I quietly observe was perhaps not the way tourism should be going. The beauty and silence of the dunes at Merzouga are often shattered by idiots on dirt bikes and 4x4's but hey as long as your Insta feed is cool so what eh ......

A large MAN 4x4 truck rolled in with a young German family but otherwise I had the camping to myself and gave a young troubled looking lad, who appeared from a shelter out in the scrub that I thought was abandoned, some water, an orange and bread which he squatted some distance away behind my van to consume. I later realised this was to remain hidden from others as during Ramadan fasting is supposed to be until sunset and covers food, water and smoking.

Next day the Belgians departed in a haze of dust and noise and as I went over to pay I was disgusted by the amount of breakfast they had left untouched and which would almost certainly go to waste. Anyway I paid up - note to self their bottled water was expensive at 10 dirhams per 1.5 litre - later at a small shop 5l was only 11 dirham but I do appreciate they have a living to make and costs to cover.

Taking the new road past Foum Assaka led me north towards Sidi Ifni a large fishing port and harbour with dozens of the small traditional boats moored up. The town is an odd mix of elegant new homes, rough apartment blocks and smart civic buildings but I passed through and enjoyed the coastal scenery as the mist had burnt off. I spotted a rough track down to a large flat area on the cliffs and decided it would be a great place to stay the afternoon and night so parked up with two live in lorries nearby. It was a stunning spot with several stray but friendly dogs hanging around - these are looked after by a really nice young guy who lives in a shack and asked just £2 for the stopover - we had a good chat as the surf rolled in below us. I then walked down a steep path to the beach where a few simple huts provide what must be a remarkable option to stay the night arriving by quad or on foot.

 

A few hundred yards south was a remarkable sea arch which I walked down to and then through after judging the waves. On the far side a remarkable dwelling was  tucked under the cliff at sea level - extremely vulnerable during the storms but an amazing place.

Back at the van it was a memorable night before the following day I headed inland to Tiznit which I recognised as a place we had explored before with an extensive souk, medina and jewellery quarter. I filled up with Shell's fancy diesel at £1.10 a litre and noted the van's continuing MPG in the high forties before taking the high back road to Tafraoute well north of the usual R104 and Col de Kerdous. I had planned to stay at the Painted Rocks a few miles out of town but there were signs indicating this is no longer tolerated, no doubt due to poor behaviour and misuse as we had seen large numbers staying for lengthy periods previously. Thus I was content with exploring and photographing the remarkable rocks which recently saw a new coat of paint although already graffiti is appearing - honestly....

 

Down in town I saw a number of vans parked up in the palmery so pulled off the road and settled in at the edge near more remarkable rocks. Later on a lad came to collect 15 dirhams - about £2 and I walked in to town to get some bottled water as my tank contained the slightly undrinkable FBJ water.

I had come to realise that during Ramadam things are much quieter here - perhaps like a 70's Sunday in the UK with businesses opening later, cafes and restaurants hardly at all other than to cater for tourists and then at sundown - 7pm - everything closing as people head home to break fast with their families

Food shops and souks are still open and the various workshops, garages and so on still trade but the roads are quieter and it is generally less frenetic.

After a quiet night an old guy came pedalling round with bread and patisseries followed by a 4X4 with a 1000 litre IBC tank on the back with drinking water. Then separately two garage vans turned up with their business cards - I love the entrepreneurial flare that these people display and recognised one as the workshop in town that many camper vans and lorries head to for repairs or resprays. Later I walked down to see the usual cluster of foreign vehicles awaiting attention before heading back for another quiet night having seen the planetary alignment in the night sky

The hot, high and dramatic ranges of the Souss Massa Draa took me via Ighrem to Talioiune where I greeted Ali at Camping Des Etoiles once more, parked up and then walked in to town to get my phone topped up. Again it was a different less vibrant atmosphere but fascinating nevertheless. In view of Ramadan I have decided to delay my planned 5 day trek in the Toubkal area as I would not feel comfortable eating or drinking during the day whilst guides abstain and the opportunities for refreshments and shared meals with host families would be lessened so I hope to arrive in the area as Ramadan finishes and get in to the mountains at the end of April. Thus for the next three weeks I will head in to other hills as down on the plains temperatures are in the high thirties which rather limits activities. I gave Ali some headphones for his radio as a food gift would not have been very sensitive and then followed a superb road south through the SMD via Tisnassemine with empty roads, wild camels and stunning mountain ranges. A road east turned to gravel after 20 miles so I turned back and dropped towards Tata arriving on the N12 just north of the Algerian border. I turned east and soon spotted a place for the night which apart from a steep drop off which might deter longer vans from joining me made for a brilliant park up. The deeply carved mud canyons were rock solid but only a month ago the area had seen unusually biblical downpours which explains the good covering of greenery and healthy looking trees dotted around the otherwise desolate landscape. The night sky and quiet road in splendid isolation made for a memorable stay.

 

Then it was away to Foum Zguid where I had stayed perhaps a decade ago and then North once more before a right turn brought me to an old favourite Ferme Maison Tansifft at Agdz where I parked amongst the palm trees and have sat here today keeping cool and updating the blog. The roof sensor on the van is reading 66 C whilst inside is a more bearable 35, insulation works both ways !! Said and his crew are sitting in the shade, I'm not sure I could wait until sunset for even just water and am very grateful that the fridge is providing ice cold water on demand. Food on the other hand would be OK probably as in this heat I have little appetite which should help with my ongoing efforts to lose weight, 5kg at the last count due largely to a 10/14 eating regime.

 

 Onward plans are to head to Nekob and try to take a road north via Ikniounn over the Djebel Saghra otherwise I'll drop back to Camp Serdrar south of Tazzarine for a few days before heading north and trying the road beyond the Dades Gorge via Msemrir and through to Imilchil - that's the one where we met a German cyclist but were defeated by snow which I hope has long gone. Time at Imilchil will be well, a chill as it's high up and allow me to get back on the bike again.

 Extra piccies here.