OCTOBER 'OUSE SITTING

Our time near Sennybridge soon came to an end as friends returned safely from Dubrovnik but we had fitted in a good walk to the top of Fan Gyhirych, a summit above the Upper Swansea Valley that featured in my first visit to the Brecon Beacons in 1980 and was instrumental in my decision to move to the area a decade later and latterly provided a literal and figurative highpoint for the Brecon Beast Cycle Event we used to route over the tough estate track. To the south the hills of North Devon were visible perhaps 40 miles away but a good 150 mile drive for the following week. We also walked near Talybont before calling on friends who have a very capable 4x4 demountable camper and provide very good cake!

As I had a week to wait for my flu jab we decided on a short trip to the Gower Peninsula so were soon parked at the Oxwich Bay Hotel that very kindly allows vans to park up in the rear car park. We walked round the huge bay to Three Cliffs with a heavy shower catching us out half way round. However the sun emerged and was strong enough to have us dried out on our return before we walked round the headland discovering an abandoned camping spot deep in the woodland where judging by the amount and age of a large pile of litter someone had sat out Covid in near total isolation.

Next day we caught two almost empty buses round to Rhossili above its amazing beach and returned via the coast path to Port Eynon and then Oxwich. Strong winds whipped up the seas and created huge swirls of foam as we neared the mediaeval structure of Culver Hole before dropping in to Port Eynon passing the ruins of the salt works. A very sharp shower above Mewslade Bay had soaked us but again a warm sun emerged to have us dry before we got back in time for a meal in the restaurant. An excellent meal was slightly tarnished by a loud mouthed drunk at a nearby table who was embarrassing himself and his friend - all credit to the young staff members who eventually persuaded him to retire to the bar although perhaps not serving him his last four pints of cider would have been more sensible.

A wedding in the adjacent marquee seemed to be going well although again the demon drink convinced two guys to head out to the beach, strip off and brave the waters albeit not for long. We enjoyed a walk after dinner under an almost full moon and passed the Michelin starred Beach House restaurant which seemed to be doing well.

 Crossing over the Gower Ridge of Cefn Bryn we stopped to admire the Maen Ceti burial chamber looking back towards the Llanelli coast and beyond to the Beacons. Down at Loughor we parked up and cycled through Dunvant and Killay to the Mumbles. It was a hot and sunny day so we headed round to the pier for refreshments and watched an excavator crushing the demolished remains of the Copperfish Restaurant that had burnt down recently. A pleasant ride took us past Swansea to the ongoing redevelopments of SA1 before a return via the marina to the van. 'The Secret' provided a good lunch sat outside overlooking the wide sweep of Swansea Bay before we then moved on to the peace and quiet of Kidwelly Quay where a German plated van was also parked up and locals were fishing as the highest tide of the year accompanied a spectacular sunset. The occupier of a moored yacht took the opportunity to row over as at low tides the mudflats are extensive and we passed a very peaceful night in the warm and comfy van.

 

Sunday's ride through Pembrey and Burry Port back to Loughor was enjoyable although a cool wind had picked up - we met some endurance horse riders and enjoyed the scenery looking back across to Gower. That evening after a shop at Tesco's in Carmarthen we headed inland to the Caravan and Camping Club site at Rhandirmyn for the usual service stop including good long hot showers - the site shuts at the end of October and was very quiet which suited us and at £12/night was good value. The washing machine was also a bonus and we left our stuff drying in the warm sun as we cycled up to the nearby mountain bike trail at Cwm Rhaedr - a steady climb up a forest trail leads to a good red run of mostly single track back down to the car park which Mandy tackled valiantly. After lunch we cycled up to the RSPB reserve at Dinas, walked through the gorge and climbed up to the cave on a sunny afternoon.

We called at Brecon to see Jan's family who are over from Switzerland before returning to Sennybridge for my jab and a catch up and overnight stay before setting off for North Devon. We broke the journey at the old Aust Services on the original Severn Crossing and walked across the bridge as the brown waters of the Severn finally spilled in to the Bristol Channel. Our destination for the night was Watchet where the town council allow overnighting in vans down near the marina - well done WTC - others need to wake up and follow your initiative as van owners bring money and trade to these places, especially out of season. £5.50 for 24 hours is very reasonable and we wandered across to the West Somerset Steam Railway station to get tickets along to Minehead in a couple of hours time which gave us an opportunity to familiarise ourselves with the harbour and small town. A pleasant chug past Blue Anchor brought us to Minehead with enough time to enjoy the station, browse some second hand books and watch the engine run round before we steamed back to Watchet.

We walked in to find a pub and settled on The Pebbles, a quirky cider bar with a warm and cosy atmosphere. They didn't do food but do encourage you to bring in your meal from the adjacent chippy which we did - we also got chatting to someone carrying a lute who was happy to play a few very entertaining tunes adding to an already memorable day. Later we watched a charter fishing boat which had been waiting offshore for the incoming tide to allow them to surge in through the narrow harbour entrance and over the cill which normally maintains a static water level in the marina.

After a very quiet night we walked down to the harbour and watched a power dredger circling slowly round the pontoons - apparently it dislodges accumulated silt just before high tide which is then washed out by the retreating currents which explained why for a few days the harbour was being allowed to drain. The East Quay arts and cafe space is a bold attempt to inject new life in to this very appealing town and we enjoyed the various exhibitions and were fascinated by the hand made paper making. Four stylish accommodation pods are available and would be an interesting experience in winter.

Another quirky highlight was the Radio Museum - well worth a visit - please give it a try......

  

After an unexpected coffee with a couple in the adjacent van who were just about to embark on full time van life (good luck guys !) we headed west via the ascent of the mighty Porlock Hill, long descent of Countisbury Hill and twisting switchbacks of Lynmouth and Lynton to reach our next base for a week in The Valley of Rocks where Greg and Alex had prepared our self contained annexe with stylish en suite to their usual high standards.

We took note of the routines for two dogs, three chickens and a hive of bees before they left for a night in Bristol and an early flight to Girona.

We have enjoyed a week of remarkably good weather giving me time to give the van curtains their first wash in probably twenty years and repair a leak in the fresh water tank that arose after some rough tracks in Spain five years ago - with luck the Quicksteel applied carefully with a mesh strengthener and the tank pre- warmed using a hair dryer will do the job, if not I will revert to the cork and PTFE that has sufficed for long enough.

A tough ride out of town took us up on to Exmoor where we stopped to reflect on life (and death) at remote Hoar Oak Cottage ( www. hoaroakcottage.org ) before we crossed the river and returned via the Lyn Valley to Lynmouth leaving us a steep ride/walk/push back up to Lynton.

Another tough ride took us up to Caffyns Cross with a view of the Lynton and Barnstaple Railway steam train leaving Woody Bay Station before we shot down to the Hunter's Inn for coffee on a remarkably warm morning. Fortunately the contractors core drilling prior to the construction of a new bridge over the Heddon allowed us across giving us a steady climb up to Trentishoe Down before we looped round to Parracombe for lunch in the church yard. At Dean we took a superb bridlepath down to Lee Abbey past Sixacre Farm and returned in time to enjoy the sunny conservatory as the dogs chased each other round the garden. We were rewarded with an excellent evening in the Oak Room Tapas Bar at Lynton - so nice to be able to walk to such a good venue.

Yesterday saw a walk down to Lynmouth and up Countisbury Hill for lunch at the Blue Ball before dropping back to Lynmouth via Wind Hill high above Watersmeet. I had put a ship finder app on my phone and was kept absorbed by following the tracking history of the various vessels in the area as we soaked up yet another warm afternoon sun. The remarkable cliff railway soon had us back up to the streets of Lynton - it's always a fascinating experience.

Today I have dropped Mandy off at Taunton for a train back to Sheffield as her brother has come over from Canada and will have my last day here tomorrow before heading over to the New Forest for a few days - it was an afternoon of torrential rain so we have been very lucky over the last few weeks - things are dropping in to place for the winter departure with my Covid boost imminent, a van MOT and a few service issue to be addressed and our traditional fortnight in the Lake District to look forward to - that may well be my next opportunity to post so until then  : more pics here.