Travellers Tales: A WEEK TO BERLIN

Boarding the ferry was efficiently managed and we were away on time passing the huge cranes still offloading two container ships as we headed out in to the North Sea passing the large dredger that is permanently occupied keeping the shipping lanes clear. Stena Hollandia is the world's largest passenger and vehicle ferry and made steady progress arriving in time at the Hook of Holland opposite the huge Rotterdam Europort - when I shipped my old van to NZ it headed this way first before turning towards Singapore.

I was last through border control as other drivers were pushy and eager to get on and had my passport stamped thus starting another 90 day post Brexit countdown although this trip is only planned to be around 60 days leaving me wiggle room for heading to Portugal at the end of the year. A lass in a micro camper was just ahead - I would love to have found out about her adventures as it was a quirky looking van.

My new sat nav reassuringly took me through this densely populated part of the Netherlands and after a couple of hours in torrential rain and remarkable sheet lightning I turned up at a small farm based parking spot near Leuden with power for 15 euros as the skies cleared.

I crossed in to Germany and pulled up in a large empty car park in Tecklenburger that had overnight parking for vans at 4 euros and walked in to the old town with its cobbled streets and half timbererd buildings. I was hoping to get a train in to Osnabrucke the next day but the line had closed in 2012 - so much for my ageing Lonely Planet but I did see the lovely old double decker bus now serving as a cafe.

Later that night the carpark filled up as there was an open air concert in the castle but it was all quiet by 11 and I slept soundly. It was easier to park up one stop down the line from Osnabrucke as the city has a low emission zone which whilst this van is OK for (Euro 4) it wasn't easy to get the sticker at short notice with a UK registration number. Instead I had bought the Deutsche Bahn ticket introduced to push people on to public transport and at 9 euros for a month's unlimited travel on all public transport in Germany a real bargain. Masks are still compulsory on public transport in Germany but it was only a ten minute trip and I was soon walking through the old streets to the central square where there was a succession of weddings taking place in the church alongside the Rathaus or town hall.

Further on I parked up for the night at Bramsche by the swimming pool with enough time to cycle along the Mittellandkanal to the Varusschlacht Museum which covers a famous victory by a Germanic tribe over the Holy Roman Empire 2000 years ago and displays a beautifully preserved bronze mask. There was also a fascinating temporary exhibition about Pompei with exhibits from the ruins including mosaics, statues and a remarkably well preserved loaf - I fully intend to visit one day so this was a good precursor.

As I cycled back up the canal many of the huge barges, some with the captain's car craned on to the wheelhouse roof were mooring up for the night - loads included oil, scrap metal and aggregates - all suited to regular low emission delivery schedules. The crews were meeting up for beers and barbecues on the adjacent track - what an intriguing lifestyle.

A lovely community run parking place at Nienhagen provided space for about ten vans with each pitch generously sized and a donation box in the wall. Power was available at 1 euro for 2 kwh - that will have to change - but as it was roasting hot and I'd been driving I was fine for 12v but put the panel out anyway. To cool off I cycled off on various tracks to a nearby abbey and then through flat farmland with wheat ready for harvesting. The network of cycle tracks in Germany is remarkable and the attitude of other road users very refreshing - for this reason most local journeys are made by bike or on foot so there is very little commuter traffic.

From Nienhagen it was only a few miles ride up to Celle with its old town centre, beautiful castle and old half timbered houses. I locked the bike up before wandering round and had a good schnitzel and chips for lunch washed down by a cold lager taking in life around me. I filled up with water for 1 euro and emptied the loo as the the bike was off and a Campinggaz bottle needed changing. For this trip I have brought 3 CG and two Calor bottles with me as I expected the gas shortages in Britain to be replicated over here so was pleased to source an exchange the following day for £22 instead of the £40 at home - Campingaz are ripping us off in the UK as their cylinders are filled under contract at Calor depots anyway so boycott them if you can!!

The walled mediaeval town of Tangermunde had a large aire alongside the Elbe with power included in the overnight fee so I hooked up and walked in through one of the main gates. The town had avoided much of the destructive bombing over Berlin and Leipzig so displayed beautiful houses, churches and a castle that made for a pleasant couple of hours before I jumped on the bike and rode alongside the river to Arneburg just in time to catch the last small ferry across and return on the other side. There is a 600 mile long cycle route alongside the Elbe which is something we will consider for next summer as I definitely want to return to enjoy more of the cycling opportunities in Germany.

Steady driving on good, mostly flat roads with a van emptied of all unnecessary weight is doing wonders for my fuel consumption - diesel here is about 10% cheaper than the UK and will be considerably less in Poland and German drivers seem to really appreciate my steady 50mph as they all wave furiously as they pass by.

Thus on Wednesday I arrived at Oranienberg where the friendly staff at the harbour master's office explained the ticketing system with payment for 3 nights made as this would be my base for visiting Berlin.

The DB ticket took me from the nearby station in to Berlin's main station in about half an hour although the success of the scheme meant the train was pretty full.
I walked across the Spree river towards the Reischstag, Brandenburg Gate and along Unter der Linden to Museum Island thinking how very different it must have been when my parents lived there in 1960 when most of the war damage was still to be cleared and the new buildings of today not even a possibility before reunification. The television tower put up in the Soviet era dominated the distant skyline and there were numerous museums, galleries, the opera house and embassies as well as parks and public spaces which made for a very pleasant and easy going experience. My journey here has been straightforward, relaxed and very comfortable thanks to a brilliant van, remarkable sat nav and all the conveniences of apps and the internet on my 'handy'. Keeping in touch with friends is as always hugely important and the ability to plan loosely the next few weeks across Poland and on in to Lithuania is invaluable. I have the utmost admiration for Mum and Dad who were living here when the Wall went up and especially for Mum who drove me across northern Europe in 1962 without any of these modern conveniences, back to a very different life in Huddersfield.

Thursday saw me catch a train via Berlin to Potsdam where I paid to climb up and out on to the dome of the Nikolaikirche for remarkable views before catching a tram on to the centre of the city's old quarters. From here I walked through the 1000 acre Sanssouci Park filled with palaces and other buildings put up by Friedrich the Great, such opulence and extravagance - the orangery alone would have suited most people and mostly housed plants over the winter.

The old Dutch quarter was intriguing and after several miles of walking I was glad to rest up on the train back to Oranienberg for a 10 hour sleep.

So today has been a final return to Berlin, for now, and to save my legs I also used the S Bahn and U Bahn to get about. The highlight was walking the East Side Museum which is a mile long section of the Wall covered in individual pieces celebrating the events of thirty years ago.

My final visit was to the Holocaust Memorial which should be a place for silent reflection but as a German guy was playing hide and seek with his teenage daughters amongst the stark concrete blocks I felt minded to express my displeasure - I think they got the message. With such appalling events taking place just a few hundred miles away in the Ukraine it troubles me that people can so easily forget the past and fail to learn the lessons.