To begin at the beginning.....

So - the Gap Year.

After returning from my last trip in early 2017 it became obvious that dear old Mum who had coped with such dignity with the loss of Dad some four years previously was now in need of additional suppport and as a trial she agreed to try residential care at the superb Hagley Place care home in Ludlow. The staff made her feel very welcome and within a week she was asking if she could move there permanently.
Mindful of her advancing frailty this seemed a very sensible solution and in time it became clear that she would not be returning to her new home in Bishops Castle. She had managed three happy years there but we all accepted she was entering a new phase in her life.
Thus over the late Spring and Summer of 2017 I began to head off again reassured that she was happy and safe, but generally staying nearer to the UK and taking shorter trips. Highlights included the traditional week in Scotland with old friends, a new experience in house sitting in a charming corner of Devon and a superb three weeks in France cycling the Nantes - Brest Canal. 
Unfortunately Mum developed Alzheimer's which produced a frightening and rapid decline in her abilities and whilst Hagley coped very well and met her ever changing needs she deteriorated quickly and required a hospital admission in September. Following her discharge she was extremely frail and required constant care and supervision.
With some misgivings we decided to visit Northern Spain in late Autumn before my usual Portuguese winter foray and spent three weeks enjoying the many excellent Vias Verdes (disused railway lines converted to cycle tracks - www.viasverdes.com English version available) of Northern Spain, a superb return for me to the Picos D'Europa and then a pleasant few days in Marvao before Mandy flew home.

In late November on the very day I was also returning to the UK the home rang to say Mum had taken a turn for the worse and whilst en route to the airport another call confirmed that she had quietly passed away.

Thus on my return I became very much preoccupied with arranging a funeral in line with her wishes, the placement of her ashes alongside Dad in my brother's lovely garden and then attending to her affairs.
This became a focus of my attention for the following 8 months and suffice to say that whilst most public and private bodies acted with sympathy, sincerity and even efficiency her life time bank - Barclays - continue even to this day to be apalling in every way. They should be ashamed of the way they treated a loyal customer especially as, after acting in a similar way following the loss of my father, they had promised to change.


However over the summer of 2018 everything finally clicked in to place with the tedium enlivend by a memorably harsh stay above Brecon during the Beast from the East, good cycling breaks near York, in the Yorkshire Wolds and in Lincolnshire and a tough undertaking of the Devon Coast to Coast Sustrans Route - far harder than we had anticipated. A long trip to Scotland was cancelled thanks to the delays from Barclays but we made the most of the unusually good weather that marked Summer 2018.

However Mandy became seriously ill in late June after a routine op and had a very close shave with sepsis which rather put our plans on hold but remarkably by late July she had begun to recover and we undertook a gentle tour of some of our favourite haunts, catching up with friends and enjoying the continuing good weather. Highlights of this fortnight included the superb Newport Transporter Bridge, a BBQ by the Severn on a perfect evening and a visit to North Devon where old friends are embarking on a new life in a very lovely part of the world.


With Mandy now almost fully recovered I decided to head off for August starting with a challenging cross Wales ride from Chepstow to Conwy staying at various bothies, returning to house sit hedgehogs, ducks and rabbits in Devon and then celebrating a clutch of birthdays with a memorable helicopter charter over the Devon countryside.



In early September I assisited the usual reprobates in running the final Brecon Beast Mountain Bike Charity Event. Over 700 riders enjoyed a demanding route and succeeded in bringing the total of funds raised over the years to more than £100k. Sadly intransigence and obstruction from two local public bodies has made running the event in future years impractical and I think all those involved over the previous years will remember with great pride the many expressions of thanks and appreciation from entrants across the board.

So finally in early October I felt able to set off on another longish venture, Mum's affairs were finally sorted,  and for those who've followed the blog over the years and noticed the new image at the top I was in a new home.

Whilst I actually purchased the van a year ago I have been ensuring that it is up to the task of matching the quite remarkable achievements of the old battle bus. Finally retired at 345,000 miles and 18 years it has I believe gone to a new owner and I now enjoy considerable comfort in a familiar but more refined vehicle.
Over the year I have had a full service including cam belt and water pump, changed the leisure and starter battery, had a new Eberspacher diesel heater fitted and as a precaution changed the clutch and DMF. Some rust around the screen was addressed although unfortunately this involved a dispappointing hiccup as the new screen leaked requiring the removal of all the interior trim, carpeting and seats at the front to dry things out.
Whilst in Portugal last Autumn the alternator failed and was  a sod to change but the old one is now refurbished and carried as a spare along with the usual filters and brake pads.

With Autosleeper managing to fit a very seviceable shower and loo in the LWB Topaz van and with the transfer over of some kit from the old bus I now have a very comfortable home that will I hope set the scene for many years to come - it is now 13 years since I gave up the smallholding life in the Brecon Beacons and I hope to be on the road for at least as long again.

The crossing to Santander on Brittany Ferries' flagship Pont Aven was smooth and enjoyable with porpoise spotted alongside.
Santillana Del Mar provided an unscheduled stop as having driven rather embarassingly through the traffic free mediaeval village centre ( never believe a sat nav) we found we could park overnight for 10 euros and were able to explore the narrow lanes and alleyways more appropriately.

Next day Gaudi's Caprichio at nearby Comillas was a cultural treat and San Vicente de La Barquera made for a pleasant stroll before we headed for the parking above the stunning beach at Pechon where we had enjoyed excellent swimming in good surf last year. However despite the summer heat the sea was cold even in wetsuits but nevertheless we enjoyed a good day on the beach and two quiet nights in a beautiful location.
Heading south over the Cantabrian Mountains we decided to tackle a peak on the Tres Mares Ridge and climbed steadily as the mist blew in on one side. Excellent views of the Picos were our reward before we dropped to Cervera de Pisuerga for a quiet night in an aire where we were able to fill up with water and dispose of waste.
Following the scenic road west to Triollo we took a shortish walk to a pair of viewpoints before unloading the bikes and setting off on a circuit of the Camporredonda reservoir including a side trip up to Cardano de Arriba where the lofty peak of Esperguete loomed over us.
A bottle of the local cider in the sun at a small cafe set the scene for the wobble back to Triollo after which we headed on to another aire at Velilla del Rio Carrion.
Food and fuel were obatined at Guardo on the Monday morning before we took the high Puerto De San Glorio road over to Potes in the Picos. From the magnificent Mirador de Llesba we watched as the clouds lifted from the major peaks of the Picos and I remembered my stay there overnight four years ago under a starry sky.
Camping La Viorna in Potes was as beautiful as we remembered and is a credit to the family who own it. We made use of the laundry facilities with washing drying very quickly in the dry mountain air - it was our first proper campsite in a week but closes at the end of October.

Yesterday saw us taking the Fuente De cable car up in to the mountains where we began a long walk through incredible scenery to the col at Horcados de Rojos from where we watched astonished as intrepid hikers descended a fixed wire down in to the valley below as part of a traverse of the main Picos range. Across the dry glacial basin the impressive Naranjo de Bulnes towered over the view and after a good lunch of bread, cheese and tomato we decided to climb the actual peak reaching the 8500' summit for the most rewarding views after a breathless scramble.
With a fair way to go if we were to catch the last cable car down we didn't linger long and arrived back at La Viorna tired and ready to enjoy an excellent meal in their small restaurant.




Today we decided on an easier day and just walked in to Potes, stopping briefly en route to assist a Dutch couple as the lady had sprained her ankle. Potes has an attractive older centre and the La Soldreria provided us with one of the best meals in recent memory whilst sat in a sunny courtyard.
This afternoon has been spent uploading this lengthy update - tomorrow we move on to the impressive Cares Gorge and then the Covadonga Lakes before we head back to the coast and NW Spain.

Piccies should be available here.