A WEEK TO BERLIN

Boarding the ferry was efficiently managed and we were away on time passing the huge cranes still offloading two container ships as we headed out in to the North Sea passing the large dredger that is permanently occupied keeping the shipping lanes clear. Stena Hollandia is the world's largest passenger and vehicle ferry and made steady progress arriving in time at the Hook of Holland opposite the huge Rotterdam Europort - when I shipped my old van to NZ it headed this way first before turning towards Singapore.

 

I was last through border control as other drivers were pushy and eager to get on and had my passport stamped thus starting another 90 day post Brexit countdown although this trip is only planned to be around 60 days leaving me wiggle room for heading to Portugal at the end of the year. A lass in a micro camper was just ahead - I would love to have found out about her adventures as it was a quirky looking van.

My new sat nav reassuringly took me through this densely populated part of the Netherlands and after a couple of hours in torrential rain and remarkable sheet lightning I turned up at a small farm based parking spot near Leuden with power for 15 euros as the skies cleared.

I crossed in to Germany and pulled up in a large empty car park in Tecklenburger that had overnight parking for vans at 4 euros and walked in to the old town with its cobbled streets and half timbererd buildings. I was hoping to get a train in to Osnabrucke the next day but the line had closed in 2012 - so much for my ageing Lonely Planet but I did see the lovely old double decker bus now serving as a cafe.

 

 

 

Later that night the carpark filled up as there was an open air concert in the castle but it was all quiet by 11 and I slept soundly. It was easier to park up one stop down the line from Osnabrucke as the city has a low emission zone which whilst this van is OK for (Euro 4) it wasn't easy to get the sticker at short notice with a UK registration number. Instead I had bought the Deutsche Bahn ticket introduced to push people on to public transport and at 9 euros for a month's unlimited travel on all public transport in Germany a real bargain. Masks are still compulsory on public transport in Germany but it was only a ten minute trip and I was soon walking through the old streets to the central square where there was a succession of weddings taking place in the church alongside the Rathaus or town hall.

 

 

Further on I parked up for the night at Bramsche by the swimming pool with enough time to cycle along the Mittellandkanal to the Varusschlacht Museum which covers a famous victory by a Germanic tribe over the Holy Roman Empire 2000 years ago and displays a beautifully preserved bronze mask. There was also a fascinating temporary exhibition about Pompei with exhibits from the ruins including mosaics, statues and a remarkably well preserved loaf - I fully intend to visit one day so this was a good precursor.

As I cycled back up the canal many of the huge barges, some with the captain's car craned on to the wheelhouse roof were mooring up for the night - loads included oil, scrap metal and aggregates - all suited to regular low emission delivery schedules. The crews were meeting up for beers and barbecues on the adjacent track - what an intriguing lifestyle.

A lovely community run parking place at Nienhagen provided space for about ten vans with each pitch generously sized and a donation box in the wall. Power was available at 1 euro for 2 kwh - that will have to change - but as it was roasting hot and I'd been driving I was fine for 12v but put the panel out anyway. To cool off I cycled off on various tracks to a nearby abbey and then through flat farmland with wheat ready for harvesting. The network of cycle tracks in Germany is remarkable and the attitude of other road users very refreshing - for this reason most local journeys are made by bike or on foot so there is very little commuter traffic.

 

 

From Nienhagen it was only a few miles ride up to Celle with its old town centre, beautiful castle and old half timbered houses. I locked the bike up before wandering round and had a good schnitzel and chips for lunch washed down by a cold lager taking in life around me. I filled up with water for 1 euro and emptied the loo as the the bike was off and a Campinggaz bottle needed changing. For this trip I have brought 3 CG and two Calor bottles with me as I expected the gas shortages in Britain to be replicated over here so was pleased to source an exchange the following day for £22 instead of the £40 at home - Campingaz are ripping us off in the UK as their cylinders are filled under contract at Calor depots anyway so boycott them if you can!!

 

The walled mediaeval town of Tangermunde had a large aire alongside the Elbe with power included in the overnight fee so I hooked up and walked in through one of the main gates. The town had avoided much of the destructive bombing over Berlin and Leipzig so displayed beautiful houses, churches and a castle that made for a pleasant couple of hours before I jumped on the bike and rode alongside the river to Arneburg just in time to catch the last small ferry across and return on the other side. There is a 600 mile long cycle route alongside the Elbe which is something we will consider for next summer as I definitely want to return to enjoy more of the cycling opportunities in Germany.

 

Steady driving on good, mostly flat roads with a van emptied of all unnecessary weight is doing wonders for my fuel consumption - diesel here is about 10% cheaper than the UK and will be considerably less in Poland and German drivers seem to really appreciate my steady 50mph as they all wave furiously as they pass by.

Thus on Wednesday I arrived at Oranienberg where the friendly staff at the harbour master's office explained the ticketing system with payment for 3 nights made as this would be my base for visiting Berlin.

The DB ticket took me from the nearby station in to Berlin's main station in about half an hour although the success of the scheme meant the train was pretty full.
I walked across the Spree river towards the Reischstag, Brandenburg Gate and along Unter der Linden to Museum Island thinking how very different it must have been when my parents lived there in 1960 when most of the war damage was still to be cleared and the new buildings of today not even a possibility before reunification. The television tower put up in the Soviet era dominated the distant skyline and there were numerous museums, galleries, the opera house and embassies as well as parks and public spaces which made for a very pleasant and easy going experience. My journey here has been straightforward, relaxed and very comfortable thanks to a brilliant van, remarkable sat nav and all the conveniences of apps and the internet on my 'handy'. Keeping in touch with friends is as always hugely important and the ability to plan loosely the next few weeks across Poland and on in to Lithuania is invaluable. I have the utmost admiration for Mum and Dad who were living here when the Wall went up and especially for Mum who drove me across northern Europe in 1962 without any of these modern conveniences, back to a very different life in Huddersfield.

 

Thursday saw me catch a train via Berlin to Potsdam where I paid to climb up and out on to the dome of the Nikolaikirche for remarkable views before catching a tram on to the centre of the city's old quarters. From here I walked through the 1000 acre Sanssouci Park filled with palaces and other buildings put up by Friedrich the Great, such opulence and extravagance - the orangery alone would have suited most people and mostly housed plants over the winter.

 

The old Dutch quarter was intriguing and after several miles of walking I was glad to rest up on the train back to Oranienberg for a 10 hour sleep.

 

So today has been a final return to Berlin, for now, and to save my legs I also used the S Bahn and U Bahn to get about. The highlight was walking the East Side Museum which is a mile long section of the Wall covered in individual pieces celebrating the events of thirty years ago.

 

 

 

 

My final visit was to the Holocaust Memorial which should be a place for silent reflection but as a German guy was playing hide and seek with his teenage daughters amongst the stark concrete blocks I felt minded to express my displeasure - I think they got the message. With such appalling events taking place just a few hundred miles away in the Ukraine it troubles me that people can so easily forget the past and fail to learn the lessons.

 

Anyway that's things up to date so another day or two in Germany will precede Poland from early next week.

A number of piccies sit here......

Time's Up.....

So after 90 busy and enjoyable days back in the UK I am currently sat on the dockside at Harwich as the night sailing to The Hook of Holland loads - I am on the morning sailing so thought a quick blog update covering the short period since our return from Pembrokeshire would fill the time.

After a lovely visit to the friends near Dethick who are patiently awaiting the arrival of their new van (delayed by Covid and chip shortages) we spent one night on the Britstop in Smalldale leaving us well placed to join other members of the Halcyon walking club at Doctor's Gate at the top of the Snake Pass. Graham led a good 8/9 mile walk over Bleaklow where we inspected the remains of an aircraft lost just after WW2 that had been delivering wages to an RAF base.

 

We then returned to Bugsworth Basin for a night in the Navigation Inn and two in the adjacent car park giving us time to meet up with Penny for a good ride along the canal to New Mills and then out along the Sett Valley Trail to Hayfield and back to New Mills where we enjoyed the Millenium walkway and refreshments before riding out to Marple. Mandy and I dropped down to the aqueduct before we all returned to the Navigation for a substantial dinner.

My rear tubeless tyre had got damaged and proved impossible to sort so next day we dropped in to Whaley Bridge where a bike shop set up a new tyre and I bought some new gloves. We rode up to Kinder Reservoir above Hayfield and dropped back to the small cafe run by Pablo from his narrow boat.

Moving on for two nights at the Sycamore Inn at Birchvale where we had stayed last September gave us the opportunity to ride down to Macclesfield along the canal passing the huge Goyt Mill and then return up the Middlewood trail, the old railway line. An unexpectedly enjoyable couple of hours was spent watching a local cricket match in Bollington with really excellent food from the 'Indian Goat' vending trailer.

 

 

Finally on the Sunday before returning home we parked at Hadfield and rode over to Penistone on the Trans Pennine Trail - this covers its most exposed section and with a stiff breeze it was hard work making the tea and cake at Penistone even more appreciated. At Dunsford Bridge there is a huge project to remove 7 pylons and bury the cable to enhance the views but we both felt it to be an expensive and unnecessary project that was doing as much damage as it would improvements.

I then spent Monday ensuring that everything was ready for this trip - ATS failed to produce a set of tyres but their manager assured me that the remaining 5mm of tread would do 8/10k more miles so I should be OK on this trip.

 

Thus yesterday I headed south down the A1 and in to Suffolk before stopping at another Britstop near Colchester where I bought sausages, eggs, veg from the polytunnel and some of Hannah's delicious chutneys before walking in to nearby Nayland to post a letter. After a quiet night on the farm I hit Go Outdoors in Colchester for new walking shoes and then parked up in Harwich despite the frustrations of app based, cash free parking payment arrangements that didn't work.

I caught the small harbour ferry over to Felixstowe for a close up view of two enormous container ships and then ventured aboard the last manned floating light vessel LV18 which is being rather chaotically restored and houses a remarkable collection of memorabilia from the days of pirate radio.

The modern day RNLI station and nearby lifeboat museum were both fascinating and sobering paying due testimony to the bravery and courage of the volunteers crews and I walked up to the various wartime defences that also reflected the courage of another age.

 

Walking back I saw an artwork that is thought to be a homage to Banksy and then drew up alongside the loading lanes ready for a quiet night.

My onward plans focus on getting in to Germany some time on Friday and then slowly heading east with time around Berlin, up to a fortnight in Poland and then on through the Baltic States and a ferry to Sweden for a slow loop back by the end of August.

A few pics sit here and I hope to update the blog weekly over the next two months.

Off and Away in the Month of May

 After a brief sort out of the van we decided to spend a week back near Nottingham to explore an area with much potential as revealed by my recent visit. We stayed on a small empty Certificated Site near Underwood NW of the city and rode down to the Trent via the Erewash Canal. From here we carried on to the Attenborough Nature and Bird Reserve before heading through Nottingham city centre and then picking up NCN Route 6 north to Hucknall and back across to Underwood.

Moving on to Newstead we parked up near the station and rode through Newstead Abbey seeing a very young barn owl flutter down from a tree on his first faltering flight. We reached the Sherwood Pines Country Park for a coffee break and then returned via a network of tracks and trails through Newstead once more. A short drive brought us to the Griffins Head at Papplewick which offers a Britstop location in a large flat field that hosts a car owners club show on Wednesday evenings. It also provided a good meal and quiet overnight location so that next day we could drive over to Newstead to park up and catch the train in to Nottingham to visit the Sandstone Caves and National Museum of Justice. This worked really well as both are within easy walking distance of the station. The caves were remarkable and the interpretation and presentation gave a real feeling of how life would have been in the labyrinth of passages. Layers of development right up to the concrete footings of modern buildings covered the history of smuggling, political meetings, storage, beer cellars, a tannery and of course shelter during the bombing raids of WW2. My photos are on an SD card in a camera sent for repair so will appear with luck in the next post but it is a well recommended excursion. 

The NM of J had a good cafe for lunch after which we experienced a mock trial in the superb wood panelled court, looked at the myriad ways in which prisoners used to be treated and baulked at the various old cells and solitary confinement rooms. The history of the justice system was fascinating and well documented - another worthwhile visit. Our train back was a bit crowded due to an earlier cancellation but once back at the van we drove back to Papplewick for another quiet night.

Down at Wollaston Hall we visited the hugely impressive T Rex exhibition that displayed a life size replica skeleton containing some actual excavated bones. Walking round the Park gave us the opportunity to get close to red and fallow deer and some waterfowl with youngsters before we headed home.

I then went down to stay at Dethick on the quiet field near where friends are based and caught up with Barry and his son who have made great progress on his van conversion. It was a peaceful stay before a joint trip down to Wales which started with another Britstop at the Wheatsheaf, Baslow near Chatsworth - the quiet car park was ideal and having arrived early we had plenty of time to ride over to Bakewell and ride the Monsal Trail. After dining well we took a walk down to the Chatsworth campsite which was busy, rather cramped and at £45/ night not nearly as appealing as our arrangement.

 After an early get away we were soon at Ironbridge and parked adjacent to one of the old blast furnaces for a ride up to Bridgnorth along the Severn having briefly cycled along to the bridge and out to the excellent cafe near Ingenuity. We hadn't realised that the Severn Valley Railway has a terminus at Bridgnorth so were delighted to see a steam train arrive and cheekily walked through the restored coaches as the engine changed ends. Eventually with steam hissing and a whistle from the guard the return to Kidderminster departed. Talking to one of the volunteers he explained that steam days were being curtailed due to the shortage of coal following the Ukrainian conflict and will be constrained in the future by environmental controls. A bridge took us across to the castle with its lopsided keep and the castle walls path took us round to the unexpected Bridgnorth Cliff Railway where the friendly operator was keen to show us round and describe his day. After returning to Ironbridge we moved on to a vineyard near Wroxeter that offered another Britstop but as we arrived late and left early we didn't actually go in. 

 

Round by a small church on the Severn we parked up to ride cycle routes to Telford with its new bridge, down to the Coalbrookdale bridge and back along to Ironbridge for a pork pie. From here we returned to the van stopping for a couple of hours at the impressive Roman ruins at Viroconium near Wroxeter.

A substantial wall remains and others outlining the former bath houses store rooms and shops can be seen. School groups had long gone so we had the place more or less to ourselves.

 

A steady run over in to Wales saw us taking a steep road leading to Coco's wild camping where Andrew allows people to pitch where they like over 30 or so acres of undulating hills. There are no real facilities but the views were stunning and despite a stiff wind we were very warm and cosy watching the sun set.

A walk locally the next day took us past a clutch of very swish eco houses partially buried in the hill with a return via woodland as a squall gave us a soaking. However the sun reappeared as we got back so we were soon dried out and amused ourselves as a group of 4x4 vehicles with roof tents  pulled up on our exposed location and beat a hasty retreat after jumping out. A large scout camp away and below us would have perhaps overstretched the very basic composting loos so again we were grateful for the comforts of the van.

 

On Saturday the 21st of May we dropped in to Llandrindod Wells for some shopping before pulling up at Sue's near Llangurrig tucking away in her quiet field for an afternoon in the sun. A ride on the Sunday up to Nant Rhys bothy was cut short by cold winds and drizzle so we we were soon back in the van for a relaxing afternoon before rain fell that evening.

Monday saw us move on to stay at Devil's Bridge with a short walk in en route to call at Nant Syddion bothy where a quick clean up saw all well. The Vale of Rheidol narrow gauge steam railway's afternoon arrival pulled in - a guy on the bridge would have found all his photos somewhat obscured by the clouds of steam and those passengers in the open sided carriages looked a bit chilly. We then walked through the woods and gorges below the triple decked bridge and glimpsed the train returning to Aberystwyth across the valley. The large car park behind the three storey Alpine style Hafod Hotel made for a quiet night after a very good meal - we spoke to a local guy who was tiling some bathrooms but was also a keen photographer with a particular enthusiasm for kingfishers - he had taken some great shots.

Cors Carron bird reserve was the starting point for a ride in to Aberystwyth along the old railway line and down to the harbour. In town the old university buildings are at the start of a major renovation and in the marina we spied an unusual speed boat that looked like it would belong to a Bond villain.A hefty slog took us to the top of Constitution Hill by the cliff railway's top station for a good lunch of fish and chips, out of the wind with a panoramic view of the promenade. After returning to Cors Carron we decided to overnight up at Teifi Pools, very much an old favourite of mine, before walking across to Claerddu bothy which as always needed a bit of a tidy up. The rubbish was recycled at Pontrhydfendigaid before we called at Tregaron to look round the craft and jewellery centre and then drove over the Cambrian Mountains to take the forestry tracks to Moel Prysgau bothy. On a recent cycling visit I had not been able to take away the accumulated rubbish and disappointingly there was even more there this time. This combined with damage to barriers and tyre tracks in the ground leads me to the conclusion that it is mostly 4x4 visitors who do the damage as the amount of rubbish and abandoned kit was more than anyone could walk in with.

Three hours unpleasant sorting of rotten food, broken glass and smelly plastic saw all well once again and we took out the bottles and cans for eventual recycling down at Brecon. I played badminton in Brecon that night whilst Mandy stayed with the friends at Lower Chapel and on the Thursday morning we shopped before heading to Sennybridge Filling Station to do laundry before arriving at friends above the village where we would be staying four nights as they went up to London for a charity cycle event covering 100 miles. That evening we went see Kate Rusby perform at the Hay Festival and the following day saw them off on the drive east. With just two horses and two chickens to look after it was an easy gig, although our need to empty the van loo was thwarted by an over full septic tank necessitating a quick trip in to Brecon to resolve things.

A sunny Saturday saw us take back lanes to Trecastle and then cycle round the Usk reservoir where at the base of the dam a lovely couple have opened a small cafe in their garden after 8 years of renovating a semi derelict cottage. It was good to share experiences of the smallholding life, the rules around food hygiene, which seem as pedantic as ever and the peace and quiet of winter months in mid Wales.

Sunday was spent relaxing with a walk down to the Shoemakers for a pint before returning via the fringes of the Epynnt Military Range where a rogue shower caught us out.

Crad and Dawn returned safely but tired so we headed off in to Brecon for the night with a ride along the canal planned for Tuesday. This took us from Crickhowell down to Cwmbran via the good cafe at Goytre Wharf and then up to the Industrial Heritage site at Blaenafon before dropping down through the Clydach gorge and returning to Brecon in time for the evening screening of the excellent Top Gun sequel. We had parked on the Promenade so enjoyed a walk in to town along the river to the cinema, returning for a very quiet night.

I had contacted Kidwelly Town Council to arrange a stay at Kidwelly Quay tucked away down by the tidal estuary which is a Britstop and very lovely so with plenty of the day left, despite calling in at Llandeilo for the good kitchen shop and a nice deli lunch, we jumped on the bikes and rode round the old military  airfield to the expanse of Pembrey Forest. Tracks took us out to the vast and deserted beach with only some distant horses shimmering in the haze of a mirage to be seen.

 

We managed to lose sight of each other briefly but eventually met at the visitor centre where the campsite was rapidly filling up ahead of the Jubilee weekend. Back at Kidwelly we took in the pretty village and impressive castle before enjoying a great sunset from the old wharf. The Saturday dawned hot and sunny so we set off on a longer ride east towards Swansea, soon meeting up with a young German couple following NCN 4 to London. We left them at Burry Port and continued through the Millenium Coastal Park past Llanelli and round to Loughor where just up from the bridge a small park had a much needed ice cream vendor. It was a steady run back to Kidwelly where we could have stayed on but instead moved round to Laugharne to stay with an old contact from the days when I kept Rare Breeds animals. Leslie has moved from mid Wales down to the coast but still has a flock of mixed coloured sheep that provide her with meat, skins and above all wool for her spinning, knitting and weaving. It was good to catch up after over twenty years and we slept soundly on her yard.

Laugharne Castle, quay and the famous Dylan Thomas Boathouse were all a delight as the tide ebbed away revealing the mud flats of the estuary and we walked round the coast path for a couple of hours with stunning views across to Pembrey and the Gower Peninsula one way and Pendine to the west. We then drove over to Colby Woodland Gardens where Leslie was manning the craft stall in their gallery and were delighted to buy a beautiful lambs wool throw. The walled garden was a joy but we were running out of time so returned to Laugharne where a Jubilee party was taking place on the sports field but we had booked a table at 7 in the Poon Street Food Thai cafe. This was yet another memorable meal with the quirky owner, hard working chef wife and attentive waitress making for a really lovely occasion.After another night with Leslie we departed having bought some lamb chops, sausages and burgers moving only a few miles to a small CS at Llandybie where simple but good facilities complimented the quiet field with good views across the Carmarthenshire countryside. We walked down to Llansteffan on the coast and round on a circuit of perhaps 8 miles but got caught out opposite Laugharne by a heavy shower - a Polish couple had a night under canvas to look forward to as they were walking a section of the Welsh coastal path, but we were comfortable in the van on a showery night.

With a damp Sunday in prospect we caught the train in to Swansea from Carmarthen, mainly to enjoy the views of the areas we had been enjoying over recent days and walked down to the new Arena Arts venue reached by the new Oystermouth Bridge. A quick pint in the art deco Grand Hotel by the station and we were back to Carmarthen on the smoother and faster GWR Hitachi Hybrid hauled Express.

Empty roads led us to the Ferry House Inn at Llanstadwell on Milford Haven where despite its small size and slope we secured a place for the night in the car park overlooking the rising tide. The view from the bar was sublime so we booked a meal for the Monday night and then walked a short way towards Neyland.

 

On a stunning Monday morning we set off to join the old railway line up to Haverfordwest from Neyland with a quick look round a town that more than a decade ago was my shopping and banking centre when I lived in the area. Not much had changed and we were soon on our way to Picton Castle which was asking a fortune to visit, thus we rolled on and dropped down to a point on the Eastern Cleddau opposite Landshipping. A brief section on the A40 to Canaston Bridge  gave way to passing Blackpool Mill which is being restored and arrival at Landshipping itself where a large old house is also undergoing renovation. More empty lanes brought us to Lawrenny with its boatyard and campsite and a cafe overlooking the Cresswell River. From here we dropped through Cresswell itself and reached the impressive Carew Castle with its adjacent tidal mill. A final climb up on to a ridge led us easily in to Pembroke for the final castle of the day - Pembroke. Forty years previously whilst walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path Greg and I had camped at the foot of its walls and it looked as impressive now as it had then with the still waters of the moat  and an abundance of wild flowers.

The Cleddau Bridge took us across the deep waters of Milford Haven and on to the Neyland Bridge from where we swooped back down to sea level and back after 56 miles to the pub for, you've guessed it, another great meal. we decided to make the most of the light evening and walked out towards the bright lights of the LNG and oil terminals with the now gas fired Pembroke Power producing up to 4 million homes worth of electricity. It was thought provoking to pass amongst such complex and indispensable infrastructure mindful of the events on the other side of Europe and the global impacts arising from them.

 

Moving on again we parked up at Dale and walked around St Annes Head with the tanks firing over at Castlemartin Ranges booming in the distance. In 1485 Henry Tudor Earl of Richmond had landed at Mill Bay with 4000 men from 55 ships - astonishingly within a fortnight he had passed up the west coast of Wales, crossed the Cambrian mountains and defeated Richard 111 at the Battle of Bosworth - a remarkable feat given the distance to be covered on foot through terrain that is still inhospitable in places today.

We moved on to a small well kept CL just inland from Druidston as cloud swept in but still walked down to the laid back Druidston Hotel where perhaps 25 years ago I had done some fencing work and occasionally returned for a pint on the terrace with its sunset views. No such pleasure on a foggy night but it was good to go back anyway.

En route to Solva we stopped for a walk on the wide sweep of Newgale Beach passing through an arch in the rocks at the southern end to reach a completely empty cove. Further round at pretty Solva we watched sea kayakers testing their skills as they left the sheltered harbour before finally reaching Porthgain, another beautiful harbour with the popular Sloop Inn and Shed fish and chips. Whilst down by the boats moored up the owner of the Shed rowed across to one of them to take more of the day's catch back to the fryer - as fresh as you could ask for. The remains of the old brick and slate works with huge brick hoppers all added to the charm of the place. Rugged Strumble Head lighthouse gave us our first seal sighting and we stayed a while in the old WW2 microwave communication test centre hoping to spot dolphins in the perhaps too choppy seas.

 Goodwick harbour and ferry terminal to Ireland is quieter these days as post Brexit much European freight goes directly to Ireland from Spain and France. The new Co Op in Fishguard replenished our stores before we stopped for a walk round the Old Town and Harbour as some youngsters swam in the warm sunshine. I had done some sea kayaking from here a few years ago and hope to get back on the water again at some stage but for now enjoyed the setting before moving on to Newport for a walk down the estuary and round on to its empty beach for a final excursion. The pub at Trewern put us in the corner of their large car park amongst trees alongside a feisty young horse who eventually seemed to approve of our presence. Returning to Newport we explored the streets and coastal path with everywhere seeming pretty quiet as Jubilee crowds had gone home and school holidays are some way off. Whilst out cycling we had seen a camp site with a Greener Camping Club banner so did some research on the web and decided to stay on one of their sites up at Mwnt.

Returning up the coast I noticed that the small farm where I used to live is now a CS - I always thought its location and wonderful view would lend itself to such an enterprise, even though it always seemed windy up there.

We parked up at Ceiwbr to walk a section of path back to the Witch's Cauldron, a huge collapsed sea cave, and were delighted to spot another seal out at sea and then tucked away in the calmer waters of the Cauldron a young pup lolling about waiting for mum to come back with a meal. It was a lovely sight as he eyed us cautiously from way below. We moved on for a look round Cardigan where the Council have changed the rules about parking for vans and display an illogical and contradictory sign - I will email them asking for an explanation but at present their website is down. Two fire engines were attending a shop fire so the main street was closed to traffic as onlookers gathered round.

 The proposed site at Mwnt wasn't quite as we expected, and we realised had no loo emptying facilities so a quick glance through various apps saw us arriving at Fedwig a couple of miles away where Andrew welcomed us to his huge field at Nantycroy with a stunning view, good facilities and a high hedge to tuck away alongside to avoid the strong wind.

 

We walked along to Mwnt beach on the Friday with food, blankets and towels plus wetsuits but the sea felt really cold leaving us to enjoy a day in the sun as the wind sporadically whipped up the sands and waves. Despite my earlier comment there were several families there with school age children who presumably had forgotten the disruptions to learning caused over the last two years by Covid and made up part of the estimated 140,000 pupils currently not attending school.

That evening we walked down to the picnic table that Andrew has placed on his lowest field but to escape the wind crossed the coast path and walked down a rocky outcrop to tuck away opposite one of the old sea cliff slate quarries that are dotted around this area. The sun slipped behind a cloud bank to give an unusual sunset before we returned to base.

Our final day was a return to the bikes - with a descent to the Cliff Hotel at Gwbert passing some stunning new houses and then the road in to Cardigan where we had another look round and an early lunch at the Castle bistro. My buddha bowl was remarkable with 17 different fruits or vegetables and wild rice which energised us to head out to Poppit Sands. The previous evening we had heard a helicopter and were saddened to hear that a local man had drowned there after assisting two children caught in a rip tide. A donation was made at the RNLI station before we headed up the steep hill towards Moylegrove. A sharp local shower soaked us in minutes - no trees up there to shelter us - but on the long descent to Cilgerran we soon dried out. We dropped further down to the river to read about the tradition of coracle fishing on the Teifi before cycling through to the Welsh Wildlife Trusts Centre nearby. After refreshments and a browse of the shop we took back roads to Fedwig where a few more campers had arrived but it was still pretty quiet.

So after a busy and enjoyable month away we set off for Sheffield stopping in Lower Chapel en route to collect my 3 spare CampingGaz cylinders in preparation for my next trip. As I anticipate cylinder gas to be tricky to obtain in Germany and Poland let alone the Baltic states I will be taking all 5 cylinders full from Britain - 2 full Calor 3.9kg which I won't be able to fill and the 3 Cgaz which I might. However as it is only a two month trip with care the whole lot should get me through as I intend to cook less and with summer temperatures need cooler showers.

A final bonus on our return was to head through the Peak District to Bugsworth Basin on the Peak Forest Canal where friends were staying at the Navigation Inn to enjoy some paddle boarding. We were able to stay by the pub so had a very enjoyable meal together, I've not seen Denise for a couple of years now so it  was good to catch up.

 So the Baltics next which I hope will be amazing. I have a sailing from Harwich on the 29th of June and return on the 30th of August. This will give me the leeway to return to Portugal in early December as we still have to work around the post Brexit 90 day limit - thanks again Vote Leave. What so far has Brexit actually achieved ??????

Anyway relax and enjoy the show : here.

 

 

THE RIDGEWAY AND GRAND UNION CANAL PLUS RUTLAND WATER

From our secluded location in the New Forest we cycled on a chilly day up to the pub at Nomansland settling in for lunch just as a short sharp blizzard blew through although a weak sun emerged for our return ride through the woods where spring was only just showing signs of arriving.

We crossed to Wales for me to collect mail and catch up with friends at Sennybridge and Brecon - all were well with a fairly mild winter and recent dry spell making life easier.

We called at the bothy in the Elan Valley to check all was in order and removed the usual bags of rubbish before returning north to Sheffield where Mandy had mail to deal with and I had an oil change booked for the van.

I then stayed overnight in York where members of the family live and met my two cousins, aunt and uncle for a rare gathering of the clans before returning to the pub above Todmorden that I had used last summer as part of my undertaking of the Trans Pennine Bridleway. Here Pete turned up after a frustrating end to a walk on Shap when he locked his keys in his van and we enjoyed a good catch up.

The following day we rode the Mary Townley Loop with a good mix of tracks and trails, long climbs and stunning views across to Rochdale and Manchester on a cold clear day. A sleet shower caught us out as we returned through Bacup after a tough day so the warm pub was very welcome for an evening meal.

 

Pete left for home as I cycled down to Walsden for the train in to Manchester and another out to Hadfield from where I completed the final section of the TPB around Saddleworth Moor and crossing the M62 passing through beautiful deserted moorland and along well surfaced tracks.

Mandy drove out to Dethick near Cromford for a night with Pete and Nina who are off to Suffolk for a month to enjoy a family wedding whilst also awaiting their new van, expected in the summer but held up by the Ukrainian conflict (wiring looms are made there apparently) and the chip shortage that has been affecting the global automotive industry.

I stopped in Shropshire on the BH Sunday night to see Penny who was staying at her sisters and also dropped in on my brother who has had the disruption of a new septic tank installation to contend with - so glad I no longer own a property.

Dropping back to my favourite little site at Llangurig it was good to catch up with Sue the owner and ride through the forest, first to Nant Syddion bothy where a spring work party had pretty much finished off the extensive repair and redecoration works that began last summer and then back to Nant Rhys.

 

This bothy was also in good nick with the daffs out on a sunny afternoon - it was good to be back in such a stunning area although the mountains of Morocco would have been my preferred choice.

I returned to Brecon for the Wednesday badminton session and again enjoyed catching up with good friends before at Lower Chapel I replaced all the brake pads as a warning light had come on whilst in the Pennines - 30,000 miles seems a reasonable mileage and I also stripped and cleaned the sliding calipers, renewed the fluid and gave everything a good inspection as I plan to have my MOT done early this year to allow me to make full use of a planned return to Europe in July - watch this space. A new living area carpet was carefully cut and fitted and everything given a good hoovering after the four months away and a meal in the local pub celebrated Jan and Ian's 40th wedding anniversary. 

 

Jan, Ian and I spent a lovely day over near Llandovery where friends have recently bought a small woodland for peace and enjoyment - something I have considered in recent years. It was a delightful spot with bluebells and a good variety of deciduous trees and more being planted as the Scots pine has been harvested and removed. Barry is a skilled mechanic and welder and has upgraded a small quad with a larger engine, tyre chains and an articulated trailer to take in materials for a shelter and woodshed and take out firewood.

That evening the three of us went over to Builth Wells to see folk group Gigspanner - excellent.

 

 

 

On Sunday Phil and I drove round the stunning Llyn Brianne reservoir and parked up at Nantystalwyn to ride the top track round to Moel Prysgau bothy where there was some cleaning up to be done and rubbish to be bagged up which of course we were unable to remove. Down at the confluence yet another barrier may deter the idiots who still insist on driving up to the bothy causing damage to the ground, river banks and bothy frontage. We cycled out via the wonderfully remote Soar Y Mynydd chapel and then drove home through Llanwrytyd Wells and over the Epynnt Ranges via Tirabad - a route I haven't done for over 20 years.

 

My plans were now to head in to Wiltshire and begin riding The Ridgeway an ancient rack that once linked Dorset with East Anglia. The remaining section links West Overton near Avebury with Ivinghoe Beacon in the Chilterns so I decided to start from east of Swindon using The Blowing Stone Inn at Kingston Lisle as a base. On my way through Swindon I called at Steam, a museum dedicated to the Great Western Railway and Brunel as well as the history of railway engineering and manufacturing in the town. It was well worth a visit and tied in nicely with last year's visits to the SS Great Britain. I noticed on a photo of old coal waggons that they were transporting coal from the mines at Abercrave where I had spent 15 years on the farm - happy memories.

The pub was actually closed on Mondays and Tuesdays but were quite happy for me to stay in their tree shaded car park surrounded by fields which was perfect for my needs. The pub is part of the excellent Britstop network which lists over 1100 places where self contained vans can overnight for free.

A steep climb past the Blowing Stone itself (Google it !) brought me up on to The Ridgeway on a superb day with blue skies, fields of bright yellow rape and the green Wiltshire Downs rolling away into the distance. The route passed the remarkable Wayland Smithy's long barrow and Uffington Hill Fort  before at West Overton I stopped for lunch in the sunny churchyard.

A return route using the byways and bridleways that criss cross the area passed many horse training gallops before a final descent brought me back to the pub after 57 miles.

Wednesday's ride took me through Wantage and on to Goring on Thames where a decent cafe refuelled me for the return via Didcot and the Nuclear Research facilities at Harwell using country roads and bridle paths that might have been hard work after rain. Back at the pub I enjoyed an appreciative pint and thanked them for an excellent stay - food is only available at weekends otherwise I would have eaten there as well as the menu looked very good.

 On my way through Wantage once more I visited the excellent Vale and Downland Museum with its history of the area's geology, farming life and recent more modern developments such as the nearby location of the Williams F1 racing team's HQ. They also cover the life and reign of Alfred The Great who was born in the town and ruled much of Anglo Saxon England from 871 to 899 and was highly regarded as a progressive monarch.

A small Certificated Site at White Mark Farm east of Watlington provided a base for my last two sections of the Ridgeway, firstly riding back to the cafe at Goring and then heading east to Ivinghoe near Tring - red kites are well established in the area and liable to swoop like gulls on food so many eating areas have a netting cover. Around here The Ridgeway is often footpath only but the Icknield Way also passes through the area so I enjoyed various sections of that that were off road as well. A glimpse of Chequers, the PM's country residence, and other large houses confirmed that this is a well to do area but many of the towns and villages are seeing large new housing estates going up and of course HS2 is having a big impact. However for now the superb routes along the Chiltern escarpment were largely empty and I enjoyed mile after mile of good riding on chalky tracks beneath lofty beech trees.

A rather rundown CS near Aylesbury provided a base for exploring the Grand Union Canal for a couple of days before I moved on to Leighton Buzzard for a spin up the GUC to Milton Keynes - the canals are remarkably peaceful despite being so close to centres of population and being a ''wide canal' there were some very impressive houseboats seemingly permanently moored up as well as numerous dilapidated boats where people seemed to be living very dismal lives, no doubt cold and damp in the winter. Between these two extremes of course are the hire boats and continuous cruisers who were a friendly bunch.

At Roade north of Milton Keynes I used another Britstop in the middle of the village and parked up before walking across to the Canal Museum at delightful Stoke Bruerne near the longest wide gauge tunnel at Blisworth where a boat and its crew emerged from the gloom after an exciting passage of almost 3km.

North of Northampton I parked up to ride the section of NCN route 6 up to Market Harborough that follows the old railway line partially used by the Northampton and Lamport Heritage Railway with an interesting collection of engines from the early days of diesel motive power. The area was previously quarried for Northampton ironstone which was removed by the line until fairly recently.

Up at MH I picked up an arm of the GUC and returned south via the long flight of locks at Foxton enjoying a bacon sandwich at the basin cafe before passing round the Spencer family's Althorp estate and returning to the van after another 50 miler.

Moving north again I stayed at another Britstop location : Ferneley's Ice Cream parlour and Dairy Barn Cafe. The hugely friendly owner was quite happy for me to stay on the car park next to a field of sheep and I joined her later as she gave a young farmers group a tour and history of the farm's recent diversification in to home made ice cream. I decided to stay two nights so after a good breakfast in their cafe drove down to Oakham and parked up for a ride round Rutland Water including the Peninsula which was something I've been meaning to do for years. There was a good variety of birdlife and traffic free routes for most of the ride with the church at Normanton particularly appealing. Unfortunately a short but torrential shower had me drenched just before I got back to the van so I was grateful for the heater as the water warmed up for a hot shower. Oakham Castle grounds contain the Great Hall with its collection of hundreds of ceremonial horseshoes traditionally presented to the de Ferrers family by peers of the realm on a first visit and is a fine Grade 1 listed example of Norman domestic architecture.

 

After another quiet night at Ferneleys I bought some of their delicious ice cream and headed north again to park near Southwell in Nottinghamshire and ride various sections of NCN 645 and 6  towards the Sherwood Pines Forest Centre and eventually Clumber Park returning via Wellbeck Abbey. Again remarkably rural riding given the area and good trails that with the relatively flat ground made for very enjoyable progress.

Back at the van the car park was so quiet and inaccessible that I decided to stay the night and before loading the bike changed a gas cylinder that had run out. I was annoyed to discover that the replacement still had a faulty valve that made tightening the regulator impossible unless you gave the cylinder dome a sharp tap with a hammer to create a small indent - not something you really want to do... I had reported this issue on a number of cylinders to Calor last year so will pursue it once more.

Anyway after a peaceful night I was away to Sheffield after a busy and rewarding month covering a variety of scenery and experiences in largely good weather.

My plans for July and August are to head to the Baltic Sates via Berlin and Poland - before then we hope to get a few weeks following the Welsh coast round from north to south so much to look forward to and be grateful for.

A few pics here...

NINETY AND OUT

 After returning to Asseiceira I gave the the van a good clear out and tucked the bikes away before heading across Central Portugal on a sunny Monday evening heading towards Lisbon. My route avoided the toll motorways and brought me in from the north after a night at the large aire in Coruche which is next to a Lidl and provides free hook up with no fee. This would explain why it was almost full and I noticed a few mainly French vans with quads on trailers and the camel/palm tree stickers that indicated to me that they were also waiting in the hope that sea crossings to Morocco would resume shortly.

Lisbon airport is pretty straightforward and after just two circuits of the pick up zone I spotted Mandy heading across with her luggage. Within minutes we were crossing the superb Vasco da Gama bridge and heading east - there was loads to catch up on of course and we stopped briefly at the Montargil reservoir to stretch our legs - it's a lovely spot and I have overnighted there in previous years.

It seemed very surreal when we all caught up back at Asseiceira and after an unusual wet start to Wednesday morning we set off on a favourite walk to the old Roman steps that cross a small river and passes through the rocky land dotted with cork oak, some displaying the red trunks seen after the year's harvest.

We enjoyed riding the local tracks and trails that I had recce'd previously, crossed the odd stream without incident and enjoyed the custard tarts at Bernadino's in Beira. A meal in Santo Antonio on the Friday was excellent with the good company of Gary and Joao before we headed in to Castelo de Vide on the Saturday to see the market, climb up to the castle and revisit the small chapel that looks across the valley. Here I noted that a new via ferrata had been installed which looked fairly straightforward so we decided to return in a day or two and took off for a relaxing afternoon in the hot sun down by the Povoa lake. We took a small track down to the shore where we could enjoy the peace and quiet with the yellow mimosa flowers creating a stunning scene.

A beautiful sunset from the top of Marvao's remarkable castle brought to an end a long overdue visit to a part of Portugal that I am immensely fond of and feel very fortunate to have been able to return to.

After a final day at the campsite we packed up and returned to the vf. I've had the kit for a decade now but it has never seen the light of day so was still in good order. After a few silly photos I then set off in earnest to enjoy an hour or so of safe but hugely entertaining ascent with traverses and an exposed section that merely confirmed that climbing is not for me. I shot a Go Pro video and took some stills as the location and views are stunning before we returned to Povoa for a couple of nights down another narrow track with a perfect spot surrounded by yet more mimosa.

The following day we cycled up to Montelvao who's newly painted water tower was being muddied up by dozens of nesting house martins. A coffee in the small village bar set us on our way for a long loop exploring more rural tracks and visiting the Meadas menhir before returning for a quiet night. The actual aire above the lake is still closed so a few other vans were dotted around the shore and a Spanish guy seemed to be living in a makeshift tent nearby. Storks were nesting in both the trees and on top of electricity poles and a variety of waterfowl also arrived at the lake at dusk. A tiny bright green Mediterranean Tree Frog was poorly camouflaged on a dry branch but had gone by morning.

The uncertainty over Morocco opening persisted so we decided to head generally east and enjoy some of the places I had visited on my way down and explore others. A quick walk round Caceres and lunch in the main square preceded a return to Logrosan where the small aire has water and waste facilities and is tucked amongst trees on the edge of the town. We walked in and saw a group singing and raising awareness about International Womens day before walking back to the van. Early next morning we were away early to follow the Via Verde towards the thermal solar power station passing the old station buildings and then turning off to a large reservoir. This is linked to two others by a large water channel that contours around the local landscape for many miles. We followed its sinuous route back to the two reservoirs, climbed a short hill and then descended rapidly to Logrosan after 50 tough miles.

 

The monastery at Guadalupe could only be visited by tour so we tagged on to a Spanish group understanding very little of course but still being astonished at the extravagance of the decorated chapels and altars. A planned lunch in the square evaporated as having brought us menus and drinks the waiter studiously ignored us for an hour so we departed and headed east staying at a small picnic area below an old water mill.

The following day we came across a honey festival in a small town and were tempted in to buying some delicious chocolate and two lovely wooden nutcrackers.

Skirting south and east of Madrid brought us to the small village of Brea de Tajo where we parked on a lofty spot adjacent to the bull ring with a grand view over the plain. From here we took a rural track to cut across to the VV Del Tajuna but following the recent rain it became muddy to the point of unrideable and then worse as the remarkable clay soils completely  jammed both wheels on both bikes.

We managed to carry both to a firmer track and at the road picked out what we could before down in Orusco a car wash enabled us to get the crud off and after a coffee with friendly locals ride up to pretty Ambite. We then headed south to the junction with another VV and returned to Brea for a quiet night.

We stayed on a campsite for two nights at Canamares to do laundry and other domestic essentials and experienced a strangely exhilarating atmosphere as we cycled back down the impressive Priego gorge with gusty winds and a bizarre light, we extended the ride by following the old road up to a col and zipping back through the new tunnel and then following a side road with a river based swimming zone and another deep gorge beyond. A spectacular looking VF in the gorge was closed for maintenance but would be worth a return visit one day. Back at the site the wind had destroyed our table and the light had turned an unusual yellowy orange. The showers had a wood burner in each room so were very cosy and we settled in for a quiet night. The area is known for the production of willow for weaving and sheaves of the newly cut crop were standing drying in the fields or stockpiled in the farm yards.

Moving on we came to the remarkable rock formations of the 'Enchanted City' which would have been better in bright sunlight but by then we had learnt that much of Spain and Portugal was being affected by a huge Saharan dust storm which had blown in - this explained the electric atmosphere and unusual lighting of recent days. The rocks had eroded in to some remarkable shapes and were huge - ' The Ships' were as big as a ferry and the animal shapes surprisingly convincing.

We arrived at tiny Trasmoz which has one bar only open at weekends, no shop and a small church but a new aire with all facilities, marked concrete pitches and even an area of astroturf by each space. Water for one euro and electricity for four convinced us to stay the following day during some very wet and windy weather with a quiet day in the van passing very enjoyably.

It cleared up the following day although temperatures were still low as we climbed the road beneath Moncayo to 6,000' before a fast decent in to Tarazona where a coffee in a warm bar soon had us thawed out. From here the easy VV de Tarazona took us along to Tudela where we found a good cafe run by a hard working Chinese family. Retracing our route to Tarazona we took a side road back to Trasmoz arriving back after 50 odd rewarding miles with much ascent.

 

It was a short run to Arguedas where we stopped on the large patch of waste ground on the edge of the village which serves as the overflow to the official aire which is small and quite tight for the larger vans.The wild flowers made it look lovely and there was plenty of room beneath the cliffs that contained the remarkable cave houses occupied until surprisingly recently. We walked up to explore and were tickled pink that friends had also visited the very same kitchen with its oven and hidden bedrooms.

 From Arguedas we cycled up to the access point for the Bardenas Reales (Badlands) which are a unique geological feature in a semi desert area that has featured in various films over the years. We cycled down to the first feature on a sunny but windy day and then rode round the perimeter road with a stiff head wind in parts and the uneven surface making it quite hard work. However the scenery was stunning and we stopped for lunch near the military base that occupies the central no go zone.

Back at Arguedas we walked in to town and the following day cycled up in to the surrounding hills with a Mediterranean Ladder snake providing interest.

Olite's aire was ideal for visiting the beautiful old town with its central square dominated by a very extensive castle that we enjoyed exploring  - it was in good condition and well worth a visit.

 

The aire at Sos Del Rey Catolico was on the edge of another delightful old town which we enjoyed exploring before heading off to visit the castle and church at Javier and then the Monastery at Leyre.

At the latter we obtained the key for access to the impressive crypt and then the church above. By pure chance as we lingered a little longer twenty or so of the Gregorian monks emerged silently from a side door, took their places below the altar and began a wonderfully moving series of chants and hymns.

We returned to SDRC for the night and then starting at Liedana where we had shopped followed the short VV through the impressive Foz de Lumbier Gorge to Lumbier itself, seeing a rather unusual T5 camper conversion and meeting a British couple with a very nice looking T3 conversion.

After moving on to an excellent newly improved aire with bike washing and a service point complete with track pump and tools at Irurtzun right on the VVs Del Plazaola we cycled up to and then through the remarkable Leitza Tunnel which had some beautiful limestone formations mid way along where a stream ran out of the rocks. Back in town I had a much needed haircut and was able to chat a little with the young Moroccan guy who ran the place - by now of course my plans to go there were well and truly scuppered and we had a ferry home from Bilbao a week later.

We next moved on to Leitza itself and cycled back to the north end of the tunnel from the old station which seemed to be OK to park at overnight. We then headed north to Andoain to enjoy an ice cream before returning along the same route as it passed through numerous tunnels and along various valleys.

 

Our final VV began near the French border at Irun and headed east in to the foothills of the Pyrenees in Basque country to Doneztebe. Flooding had washed away some of the route but we passed through Bera and Sunbilla from where we could see a mountain top on fire which fortunately looked as if it wouldn't spread far. 

Back at  Irun we drove up to the recreation area at Enterria where families were packing up after barbecues and picnics to leave just a number of other vans and ourselves parked up for the night. It was a quiet spot and we made use of the water and waste facilities before leaving the following morning as the day's visitors began to arrive.

We started following the coast road round towards Bilbao which was busy on a sunny Sunday but took us through some lovely port villages giving us a chance to have a few hours on a beach and walk round Ondarroa and Lekeito before staying inland at a monastery that provides simple accommodation for pilgrims on the Santiago de Compostella route. We were the only occupants of the car park in marked contrast to the busier aires down on the coast.

 

 

Monday round the coast was much quieter and we enjoyed a light lunch at Elantoxbe where two artists were brightening up the harbour shelter before the sat nav expertly brought us to the aire for Bilbao high above the city and conveniently placed for the bus down to the centre. We enjoyed the Guggenheim and its environs, walked through the smart shopping areas and caught a late bus back for our final night of the trip.

 

With plenty of time to spare we headed to the port stopping en route to get laundry done and look in vain for a gas supplier - we will revert to Calor in the UK but I had hoped to take 3 full Camping Gaz ones home ready for next time.

Passport and security checks at the port were easy enough and we joined the lines of vehicles waiting to board the new Brittany Ferries LNG powered vessel the Salamanca on its maiden return crossing to Portsmouth. There is new infrastructure for refuelling as the ship carries 800,000 litres stored at -162 degrees C - somewhat sobering but I guess the way the world of heavy duty engines is going.

When I had booked a few weeks earlier the best cabins had gone but our internal four berther was fine and we had taken out tickets for the Commodore Cafe which was a good decision as unlimited snacks and drinks were on offer plus a good view of the seas ahead. It was a calm crossing for which I was very grateful and we enjoyed the experience immensely. Some folk were a bit greedy with the food and wine on offer and guarded their prime seats by the windows jealously. The tickets included the evening meal and breakfast, both of which were staggered to maximise space but this resulted in some long queues, something they will need to address. We passed the Isle of Wight as the sun set and docked on time after dark in Portsmouth where again customs and border control were simple enough.

An hour or so later we rolled quietly down the track to our little hide away site near Ringwood arriving just before midnight to sleep soundly in this quiet and secluded spot.

I found it very humbling to have been able to get way at all after the horrors of the pandemic and felt hugely privileged given the events in Ukraine to have been away and returned safely. The Brexit 90 in 180 rule seems ludicrous and was yet another little mentioned consequence of the decision to leave - I as yet see no benefit to the UK in that decision in this and many other areas of life, the economy and business. There are work arounds and I am making plans to get away again by late June with plenty already going on now I'm back - a further blog will cover events to date shortly.

Pics here as per usual.