Off Jura and over the Bridge to Skye

Another calm crossing from Islay to Oban calling in at Colonsay gave excellent views across to Mull as we sailed gracefully in to Oban on a sunny afternoon. A chance to restock supplies was taken before I headed out to Fort William and then round to Loch Quoich parking high above the water with the side door aligned to the spectacular sunset. Two perfect days ensued enabling me to complete 2 circular walks and bag a couple of Munro's with the occasional brief blizzard adding to the stunning setting.

After a trundle round to Kyle of Lochalsh I crossed the graceful bridge and was soon at our cosy cottage near Broadford. The rest of the team arrived after long but uneventful drives up from Bristol and we enjoyed a good catch up.

Sunday saw a long and challenging day on the Black Cuillin ridge culminating in topping An Bhasteir  whose final exposed scramble was I decided a step too far for me after more than enough excitement over the last few months. Monday was another perfect day with good conditions for some of us to ascend Blabhein whilst a cloudier Tuesday saw a walk to Camasunary bothy. We split up again on the Wednesday as Nick and I completed a long circuit around Glen Brittle and Talisker seeing an otter during lunch, covering over 30 miles and attaining a speed of 38.5mph down a particularly loose and steep forestry track!

I took the bike over to Raasay for an energetic day exploring the hidden charms of the island  and reached the island of Fladda after taking Calum's Road built single handedly by an islander over a ten year period.

Our final day was marred by the early departure of Pete and Glen as the latter had been confined to bed with a serious stomach upset - a great shame for him as the weather had been condusive to enjoyment all week. The remaining trio enjoyed a good ride along an old marble quarry railway track and then a mountain track that dropped us down to the abandoned hamlet of Boreraig and along the coast to Suishnish.

A good meal to celebrate Nick's birthday topped off an excellent week and today after a tidy up of the house we set off in different directions as I have headed round to Ullapool to join the bothy work parties.

Phone and internet coverage are likely to be minimal for the next week until I return to Ullapool - meanwhile enjoy the piccies  here and keep an eye on the Spot to see where I have ended up.

Joys of Jura/Islay

The crossing to Port Askaig was idyllic on a calm sunny evening with the 3 Paps of Jura beautifully lit as the sun set. I soon found a place to spend the night and then headed to the south east of Islay passing many of the famous distilleries before walking from Claggain Bay up to an MBA bothy north of the remote MacArthur's Head lighthouse - 6 seals cavorted in the bay and as I returned at dusk a pair of otters played in the swift flowing stream. The next few days were spent exploring the island's many natural attractions, often on the bike as there were many old tracks out to distant headlands and quiet lochs. Views from the Rhins across to Mull reminded me of previous trips to that island and a superb couple of days were spent based at Machir Bay where some of the thousands of geese that overwinter on the island filled the evening skies. I took the brief ferry crossing to Jura for the Easter weekend and set off down the island's only road.
As I'd hoped it was very quiet and I spent 2 days on a large bay north of Craighouse with a walk up the Paps in initially good but then rather poor conditions - with only four months elapsed since my coronary capers I decided just to do two of the tops - the right decision given how tired I felt on my return. A drop in temperatures proved the value of the small genny I now carry as I was able to stay warm and cosy and enjoy a couple of films each evening.
Further north I walked out to a future bothy on the north side of West Tarbert loch - popular with visiting yachties and sea katyakers as it provides good shelter on the exposed and rugged west coast. North of pretty Inverlussa and the Ardlussa estate the road ran out and I based myself for two nights at the start of the long rough track north to the tip of Jura. This passes Barnhill where George Orwell wrote '1984' and finally Kinuachdrachd which remarkably seemed to be in permanent occupation despite the inaccessibility. 
Two miles beyond here were stunning views across the swirling waters of the Corryvreckan whirlpool to rugged Scarba but for me the highlight was observing a pair of white tailed sea eagles gliding around their eyrie perched high in a conifer : not wishing to disturb them my photos were of low quality due to the limitations of my small digital camera but it was a remarkable sight. 
My final night was spent on the Sound of Jura after a bike ride around rough tracks to the south west of the Paps - the estate is finishing off a substantial £7m hydro scheme that will supply both islands with power from later this year, pay for itself in 7 years and then produce a handsome £1m p/a return for the far sighted owner.
Today (11th April) sees me in Oban after another memorable sailing from Islay via Colonsay with views that reminded me of the superb coastal scenery at the northern end of NZ's South Island : many of the communities live a similarly independent life relying on ferries and privately owned boats to keep in touch with mainstream life.
With a couple of days to get to Mallaig for a ferry to Skye and the generally fine weather continuing I shall visit another couple of bothies before meeting friends from Bristol for a week in a cottage which should be very entertaining.
Piccies here and Spotties here.


Slides look back at early days in NSW.

Scottish Spring

After a relaxing and productive fortnight in Devon I headed over to Pembrokeshire to get the good news from my GP that they were happy for me to have a 3 month prescription freeing me to travel further afield with a repeat appointment and further blood tests not due until June.

A stove was collected and delivered to a bothy near Dolgellau where an excellent weekend's weather enabled us to remove the old one, sort out the flue, source new pipes and leave everything ready for the next visitors.

On the Sunday I met with my parents in Bishop's Castle for mail and departed for Sheffield the next day. A friend and I then spent three perfect days walking above Grassington including a long day over to Malham Tarn with a return via Gordale Scar. The superb scenery, empty space and glorious sun combined with good company and two excellent meals to make for a perfect break.

After going our separate ways I travelled via Coverdale to Swaledale and then explored the lead workings high above Arkengarthdale before spending the night near the Tan Hill Inn whose cosy comforts were enhanced by a talented harpist.

Less than four hours driving the next day had me past Glasgow where queues of motorists were searching for fuel and in the early afternoon I crossed from Gourock to Dunooon on the ferry.

A peaceful spot opposite Bute saw me ready to catch another ferry from Portavadie to picturesque Tarbet where a two hour walk in the forests and hills above the village offered wonderful views of the complicated coastline. A fellow passenger was a keen sea kayaker and had just retired with a plan to visit NZ at length next year.

The busy Kennacraig to Islay sailing was full at lunchtime so I could not travel earlier than booked so I took myself around part of the Kintyre Peninsula enjoying more wonderful views of the two islands I shall spend the next ten days on.

Some pictures should be here and the SPOT may be found via here - although the link has been playing up.

Devon's Delights

After 3 months of largely occupying the van I have recently had the chance to enjoy a comfortable bungalow in the quiet village of Galmpton near Brixham. Despite having visited nearby Dartmoor in previous years and explored the coastline to both the east and west this area was new to me.

The Dart Valley's attractions were a revelation with Agatha Christie's home at nearby Greenway sitting in magnificent grounds which led to the small jetty from which local ferries linked to Dittisham and Dartmouth. This access to sheltered waters enabled a friend to join me for a test paddle from Totnes to Dartmouth with favourable tides and high pressure - conditions which allowed him to paddle the dramatic coastline from Brixham, round Berry Head and in to Kingswear the following day.

During the week I attended to a number of tasks on the van - a replacement fridge was fitted and some plumbing and wiring rerouted to facilitate the installation of an underslung waste tank. A new bike rack that will allow me to access the fresh water fill point without removing the carrier or bikes was ordered and fitted - being higher and mounted on just one door it also removes the need for a light board which will simplify things and avoids the need for heavy lifting.

A TV bracket fitted in the roof space added a touch of sophistication and following a full service the trusty bus is now ready for my drift north to Skye over the next month.

Another friend joined me for the weekend during which we enjoyed a fourteen mile walk following the route of Greg's paddle from the swooping coast path but taking almost 3 times as long and then on Sunday walking along the valley to Dartmouth and returning by ferry.

In bright early morning sunshine I explored the empty expanse of Slapton Sands - used for training prior to the Normandy landings almost 70 years ago but now a haven for bird life before carrying on to spectacular Start and then Prawle Points. Salcombe's Sharpitor provided a final walk after a perfect day with good views of large vessels entering the Channel or heading for Plymouth further along the coast.

A day's gardening and housework has left the premises spick and span so tomorrow sees a leisurely return to Wales for badminton, a GP appointment and then a quick trip in to a bothy near Dolgellau to deliver a replacement stove before heading up to the Yorkshire Dales.

Photos of the last fortnight appear can be found here and I hope to get the Spot locator reporting in during the extended Scottish trip.

The slideshow casts back to the charms of Japan.

Spring Tales

Following the successful trek in Cumbria I revisited the northern Pennines en route to Sheffield and then Coventry and made the decision to retrace my steps at leisure en route to Scotland in late March.

An enjoyable weekend in Bristol included a walk through the Avon valley spotting a pair of deer and admiring a substantial heronry with a dozen or more pairs of the large birds roosting high in the bankside oaks. A pedal in to Bristol gave me a chance to enjoy the old docks and wharves which have been substantially improved and redeveloped over the 22 years since I left for a new life in Wales. A whizz round the mountain bike trail at Ashton Court was my first proper foray on a mountain bike since December which I found exhilarating and reassuring. We also found time to diagnose a broken rear spring as the cause of much rattling beneath the van - as the fridge had also expired I returned to Coventry to pick up a new fridge and an underslung waste tank from the excellent CAK tanks and a spare spring from home.

Raglan Castle provided an interesting diversion en route to Brecon although the flat light didn't show off the spectacular ruins to their best.

Whilst hanging out in the Beacons the second spring also gave up the ghost - considering the terrain and mileage covered fully laden in Oz this was not unexpected and the last renewal had been 4 years and 75,000 miles ago. Thus I decided to entrust their replacement with the main dealer in Swansea before heading north to mid Wales for a very productive scaffold training session at Nant Rhys bothy. A mix of Spring like weather prevailed and the two dozen of us learnt a lot which should hold us in good stead for the planned re roofing in October.

Our Spring meeting went well but a planned motor rally on the Sunday required most people to make an early start to avoid the race so the traditional Saturday night celebrations were curtailed somewhat.

With a departure planned for Monday I decided to wander down to enjoy the spectacle before returning to the now deserted building for a tidy up before dozing in front of the stove as a blizzard and thunderstorm disturbed the otherwise silent location. Surprisingly given the remote location a phone signal was available so a few arrangements for the imminent fortnight in Devon were made before I retreated to the van for the night. The presence of a nearby wind farm and the mobile signal caused me to reflect on how different life at this old farm would have been when it was a family home and how important the work of the MBA is in ensuring that these abandoned properties do at least remain as welcome refuges for lovers of the few remaining relatively wild places of Britain.

Pictures at this link and a slideshow looking back to South Australia a year ago (just to convince me it wasn't all a dream!).

Cumbrian Capers

Our impressive friend on the left provided barn security on the small holding of friends in Carmarthenshire who kindly invited me to stay for the weekend before 10 weeks after my initial admission for angioplasty and having built up with walks of varying length and intensity I drove to the Lake District to rendezvous with three friends from the the bothy scene. The previous week's cold spell (-8C whilst overnighting in Brecon) was easing but Rydal Water still held a sheet of ice as we began to ascend the eastern fells of Langdale after the two hardiest souls had spent a memorable night in an old slate cavern.

Despite the cold wind and lying snow we enjoyed good weather and views across Lakeland as we reached the tops of Sergeant Man and High Raise before a steep drop off in to Langstrathdale for a meeting with the fifth member of the team and a windy but spectacular overnight stop.

Wednesday started with a steep climb in slushy conditions to Esk Hause where the wind break provided shelter for a brew before we took the well used route through to Sty Head Tarn.

Here three of us were fooled in to an ascent of Great Gable with full packs but were amply rewarded with spectacular views across Wastwater to the snowy bulk of Scafell Pike before dropping down to Windy Gap and ascending Green Gable.

Brandreth was passed en route to a hut above Honister slate mine our second stop for the night where I decided to tent again and the others occupied the slab floor in the well camouflaged stone building.

Our final day was spent dropping down to the mine workings before climbing once more to the small tarn below Dale Head and with rain threatening hastening our descent in to the Newlands Valley for a brisk walk out to Keswick for the bus back to Rydal.

All in all an excellent few days in good company with very reasonable weather for the time of year and location - being unused to carrying a full pack I found the going tough at times but not beyond my abilities although the prospect of a few rest days off this weekend appeals.

My next post should appear after the bothy weekend in early March - in the meantime photos of the trip appear at the link here .

Emails from various friends around the world have been gratefully received and plans for next year and beyond are slowly coming together ........... details to follow over the next few months.

Mid Winter Update

Well a couple of months have elapsed since the pre Christmas cardiac and relationship dramas so I figure an update is overdue.

Whilst Sarah seems determined that we should remain apart my recovery from the skilled intervention of the Morriston cardiac team has been steady and sustained. I have lost 10 kg and reduced my serum cholesterol from 7.5 to 2.5 largely through a healthy but varied diet that whilst it lacks the goodies I used to enjoy has been surprisingly acceptable. Whilst both my GP and Cardiac Rehab nurse advised me to ease off on the exercise a little the surgical follow up was reassuring although there remains a strong indication of coronary artery disease in two other pipes so future issues and interventions cannot be ruled out. However I am giving myself the best chances and am inspired to make the most of the new and unexpected opportunities offered so am filling up the 2012 diary steadily.

A week in Sheffield with a long standing friend combined stout walks on the Derbyshire tops with the cultural delights of the Yorkshire Sculpture Park and Hepworth Wakefield. This was followed by a memorable weekend in Shropshire to celebrate my brother's 50th birthday - bopping till 4 am and more laughter than I can remember in ages.

A memorable winter's day climbing Pen y Fan in the Brecon Beacons was followed by a 3am drive to Bristol for a flight to Salobrena in southern Spain where 3 of us were royally hosted by a mutual friend in his comfy villa. The sights and sounds of an admittedly familiar foreign country combined with warm sunny days whilst Britain shivered convinced me that the sooner I am back on the road in Europe and beyond the better. We picked several carrier bags of fresh oranges and returned all too soon to a frozen Bristol airport.

Over the next couple of weeks I will be back to Pembrokeshire for meds, completing a multi-day walk in the Lake District and heading to Bristol for a long weekend before some bothy training days in mid Wales in early March.

A few weeks in Devon may precede a couple of months in Scotland as I have the annual walking week around Easter - this year we stay on Skye - followed by work parties south of Ullapool and near Cape Wrath.

Beyond that I am leaving things flexible for the summer but will post regularly.

Having replaced the mislaid camera a new set of pics appear here and the slide show looks at our location a year ago - Tasmania.