All right on the Isle of Wight

After a walk round charming Lymington on a hot and sunny morning we were soon boarded on the ferry which threaded its way through the moorings of Lymington marina and forty minutes later pulled up at Yarmouth.

A quick whizz across to Wootton saw us parked up behind the Woodsman's Arms and off on the bikes down to Ryde where the remarkable hovercraft over to Southsea still runs regular passenger services directly from the beach. We locked the bikes up and were amazed at the way the huge craft arrived in a flurry of spray and roaring engines before settling down for the front door ramps to open. We were soon onboard and secured window seats for the ten minute flight. The fast ride felt like a plane rumbling along before take off and soon had us deposited at Southsea where we walked through the rather tacky amusement arcades and along the defensive walls towards Portsmouth where the Spinnaker Tower lorded it over the city. This combined with an incoming cross Channel ferry had me looking forward to future trips and reminiscing on those before.

Another exciting return to Ryde followed by a speedy ride back to the van gave us time to freshen up before the pub served us an excellent meal and we slept well in the quiet field.

Blue skies and sunshine greeted us as we set off back to Ryde calling at the beautiful Quarr Abbey with its brickwork soaking up the heat. Better photos of the hovercraft were taken before we cycled round the shoreline to Seaview and then grabbed coffee and an ice-cream at Duver before taking the causeway across to Bembridge. The mill was shrouded in scaffolding and tarpaulins for renovations so we carried on to Sandown before picking up the old railway line, now a cycle track, all the way up to Newport. Heading up the east side of the Medina river we passed the rusting hulk of a paddle steamer and then cut across back to Wootton after a stunning day.

We had booked tickets for the IOW steam railway just ten minutes walk from the pub and arrived in time for a look round the small Wootton Bridge halt before the steam hauled train puffed in to view. After watching the loco run round and couple up we jumped in to our First Class compartment and were instantly transported back to a different era of rail travel. Plush seats, ornate decorations, mirrors and lights combined with drop down windows to create a sense of travel as it used to be. We had the six seater compartment to ourselves as we headed towards the company's main centre Haven Street where we alighted to explore the museum, workshops and other displays as our train headed away south. We caught it again later to maximise our experience of steam travel by returning to Wootton Bridge and then all the way back via Haven Street to Smallbrook Junction where the mainline is joined. We decided to hop on the train to Ryde and enjoy the experience of riding out along the pier to the ferry terminal. We then returned right through to Shanklyn and walked along the seafront back to Sandown after taking the lift down. At Sandown we looked at the forlorn ruins of the burnt out Oxford Hotel that rather blights the seafront before the comfy train took us back to Smallbrook and a final steam hauled ride in another empty First Class carriage back to Wootton Bridge.

We moved on that evening to a lovely camp site at Queen's Bower where we had hook up and good views courtesy of Yasmin and Sean. Next day we rode down to the cycle track again and cycled through to Sandown, along to Shanklyn for fish and chips and then enjoyed the deep fern and shrub lined valley of Shanklyn Chine.  The Chine had been used for the route of a remarkable war time project called PLUTO (Pipeline Under The Ocean) which pumped essential fuel under the Channel to support the Allied forces as they liberated Europe. This link will give you more information on this remarkable project Here We climbed out at the far end to enjoy Old Shanklyn with its thatched cottages before enjoying a large bowl of mussels at the Fisherman's Cottage Inn right on the shoreline. After a steep climb out we followed the coast path which involved some steep wooden steps and eventually reached Ventnor with its harbour and IOW shaped paddling pool. Steep Hill cove was reached by another path after which we climbed back up to the tarmac and followed the quiet road round to St Catherine's Point. A return over the downs to Godshill put us back on the cycle track to the site and included a good view of a red squirrel.

After another run along the cycle path we reached Newport and stopped at the Bargeman's Restaurant, a huge linear pub with a sunny terrace, for hot chocolate before continuing up the west bank of the Medina passing the large wind turbine blade factory and reaching Cowes with its narrow streets and range of shops. On the marina we absorbed the busy scene as yachts sailed in and out, the Red Funnel ferry headed over to Southampton and a team were carefully lifting out a number of training yachts for winter storage, each receiving a good jet wash before being lowered on to bespoke trailers. We got talking to an Ozzie guy working on his friend's super yacht which was due to be transported down to Greece for the winter aboard a cargo ship at a cool £70k....A good 'hot soup and a roll' deal in the waterside caff set us up to cycle round to Gurnard with superb views across to the mainland. A curious reproduction vessel, the Nao Vittoria from Spain, passed by before we dropped back to Cowes to cross to East Cowes on a small passenger ferry which was temporarily replacing the larger chain ferry that was undergoing maintenance. We squeezed aboard with the bikes along with a gaggle of schoolchildren and then returned to Newport along the opposite bank and then back to the site via the cycle path once more.

An early start saw us getting laundry done in Sandown before we arrived at the hugely impressive Roman mosaics at Brading Villa which entertained us for a couple of hours. 

Osborne House, the holiday home of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, was very accessible with endless rooms full of their treasured collections of art, sculpture and furniture topped off by the opulent Durbar dining room which reflected her love of and connection to, as Empress of, India. Mature trees in the grounds below the formal gardens led to the jetty and private beach where the family had played and a little further on stood the Swiss Cottage designed by Albert to reflect his German roots, as a play house for their nine children. Finishing off with the walled garden we again returned to the Turfcutter's at Wootton for another good meal and a quiet night.

Returning to Godshill the following day we found the Model Village absolutely fascinating with the detailed models and layouts enhanced by carefully trimmed bonsai trees and bushes. A model railway trundled around, music came from the churches and many of the sights from the last few days were faithfully recreated in miniature including the Chine and local houses in the village.

Up at the real church we admired the interior decorations and grounds before heading off to a lofty lunch spot up on the Downs with panoramic views over Ventnor and the container ships out in the Channel. We had seen the Arcadia and Disney Princess Cruise liners heading to Canada and Spain respectively and appreciated how much more we enjoy our self contained and flexible approach to travel. Down at Shanklyn we had an evening meal before returning to the Chine after dark as it is illuminated and at this time of year has a number of Halloween themed 'enhancements'. 

Returning to the Downs we had a quiet night with another van nearby and then moved on along the south coast to Freshwater Bay. Here a lovely old character from Huddersfield provided simple camping for a tenner a night on his sheltered two acre field alongside the Golf Club. Witty had retired here twenty years ago but after losing his wife earlier this year was considering a return to Yorkshire so his rather tired bungalow was on the market for almost £700k. In his early 80's it seemed a daunting prospect but he was a lively character and we wish him well.

The newly refurbished Rock Hotel looked out over Freshwater Bay and from the bus stop nearby we caught the open topped Needles Breezer in to Freshwater village and then through Totland and out initially to the rather tacky Needles Landmark Attraction. Riding the open topped upper deck was as ever great fun, offered good views in to homes and gardens and set the pulse racing as we squeezed through narrow lanes and up to the Needles Batteries high above Alum Bay. We stayed aboard as far as Yarmouth and then had a good look round the small town spotting an immaculate VW T2 van before getting the last bus back. On a stunning evening this gave us time to walk over Tennyson Down to his granite monument before returning to base.

Our 24 hour ticket gave us time to return to the Needles on the bus and from the Attraction hop on the cable car down to the coloured sands of Alum Bay. Here we were tempted to hop on the RIB for an excellent journey along the foot of the cliffs and out around the Needles lighthouse. Close up when back onshore the sands of the cliffs were of a remarkable range of colours and bright white chalk pebbles rounded by the seas.

After catching the chairlift back we walked up to the National Trust run Needles Old Battery looking across to the New Forest beyond Hurst Castle Spit. As expected it was all very well presented with access to various rooms, a long tunnel out to a searchlight point and of course the five huge gun emplacements that had guarded the Solent and its approaches. The cafe in the Lookout Tower had stupendous views and energised us for the walk up to the New Battery and Coastguard look out passing a rocket testing station that had been part of the UK's early forays in to nuclear weapons. 

From here it was a rolling walk over the downs again past Tennyson's monument once more and back to the van after a varied day.

Yesterday was our final full day on the Island and began with a short ride up to the Dimbola Museum and Galleries located in the former home of Julia Cameron, an early female pioneer in the field of photography. Much of her work was on display along with early photographic equipment and a rather bland range of photos from the IOW Photography Society. Of more interest were photos from Syria and elsewhere capturing mosques, temples and monuments from across North Africa, many now destroyed by conflict. The lovely Orchards Stores grocery provided some basics after a visit to the thatched church after which we had an early lunch back at the van before setting off over Compton and Brightstone Downs on superb flowing grassy tracks with wonderful views. We dropped in to Brightstone itself for a drink and then picked up the Military Road to head west and back to base. We stopped at Hanover Point but failed to spot the dinosaur footprints as the light was fading so will head back there later today before our evening ferry back to Lymington.

From there we will move on to Frome tonight to leave the van for a week whilst we embark on King Alfred's Way, a 240 mile ride round Wessex, mostly off road following the Ridgeway, Kennet and Avon Canal and some of the South Downs Way over 5 nights and 6 days.

The IOW has hugely exceeded our expectations and given us many great memories and experiences including 10 different modes of transport all enjoyed in superb weather.

Extras as always...