Morocco Encore and a long run south....

A final ride from Camping Asseiceira (as by the time I return to the area Gary will have sold up and moved in to his very nice local cottage) took me across La Fontera in to Spain as I wanted more ready cash for Morocco and beyond. In Valencia D' Alcantara I tried various ATMs until one paid out without commission and more importantly I selected 'without conversion' as the better option. A coffee and cake in warm sunshine saw me ready for the return route passing an interesting dolmen and a craggy outcrop near the border where perhaps two dozen eagles were lazily circling high above.

 

Gary kindly took us out for a final meal and then I was away first thing Friday feeling quite sad that I would not be staying here again in similar circumstances - I have visited and stayed many times over the years and the site has left me a host of happy memories.

Anyway I was over in to Spain and again in search of gas to no avail but decided the ready availability of cheap Moroccan gas and cylinders rendered the CampingGaz unnecessary so instead rolled on to the walled town of Olivenza for a quick scout round including the stunning twisted columns of the Santa Maria del Castello church.

 

South again brought me to Jerez d De Los Caballeros with its three Baroque church towers followed by a lovely drive through the wooded hills of Tentudia where I stopped in Fregenal de La Sierra which has a remarkable bullring located within its castle walls. I pulled up at an aire outside the small village of Cumbres Mayores just down from a large Dutch 4x4 Merc van with a Hymer conversion. On a chilly evening I walked in to the seemingly silent village only to note families heading in to the centre. Here to my great delight I came across a carnival procession of about ten decorated lorries with children in various outfits throwing out small gifts to the crowds and a lively brass band adding to the occasion. It was all to celebrate the arrival of the 3 Kings at Bethlehem and made for a very entertaining couple of hours which the Dutch couple ensconced in their van had unfortunately missed entirely. 

 The Eber kept me warm overnight and I was away after breakfast calling briefly at a caravan place in Seville in search of a bathroom tap, mine having developed a split - it's not one I use so Mandy can bring one out from the UK in March. After the final run down to Tarifa I parked behind the beach on the long track that is popular with the kite surfing community. As always there was every size and shape of van and even lorry parked up and the shore was full of the enthusiasts and their colourful kit. I chatted to a couple from Auckland, but originally the UK, who had come over to explore Europe for a few months having bought a van. Their time was nearly up and a ferry back to the UK booked but both Jeremy and Abby were clearly inspired by the prospect of Morocco - next time perhaps folks. I walked along the beach to Tarifa for a welcome but pricey beer and then returned to the van for a lean supper as I had yet again been caught out by all the shops being shut for another holiday.

I was away before dawn on the Sunday, arrived at the Estacion Maritime in Algeciras as the sun rose and had my paper tickets in hand within ten minutes having steadfastly ignored the various touts trying to lure me to their booths. Sat in the queue for the ferry other vehicles turned up including 3 Portuguese 4x4 enthusiasts and a ludicrous 6x4 German truck.

 

Loading and departure was an hour late which made no odds and the customs, immigration and vehicle insurance formalities were as easy and efficient as last year. Thus after an hour's drive I arrived at La Ferma, a small hotel offering camping as well which we had used last year - it made sense after a long day to go somewhere easy and I was soon set up for a quiet evening. Next day after a quick shop in the nearby (and expensive) Marjane supermarket I withdrew more dirhams at an ATM and then headed west to reach the Atlantic coast taking care to avoid the occasional tortoises that were lumbering across the warm tarmac. I managed to swop my one blue and one red gas cylinder for two reds (the more ubiquitous apparently) for the ridiculously cheap price of 90p each (£48 in the UK!) and arrived after a busy town centre at the Kenitra Municipal Camping which was more or less full of Europeans, mostly French or Dutch.

Leaving after a quiet night I followed the coast south to Rabat and stopped to visit the Botanical Gardens at Bouknadel which were lovely and contained a small vivarium with various snakes and reptiles that caused the three visiting school groups to shriek even more loudly. I decided that the chaotic driving in a city is far more risky for a dent or bash than the equally chaotic smaller towns where it is mostly pedestrians, donkeys or hand carts rather than vans and taxis so decided to hit the peage until past Casablanca. Ironically within minutes the bonnet of a BMW in front flew off and came at me like a giant steel frisbee. Fortunately with empty lanes on my left I was able to swerve violently and avoid the projectile and of course the car which had screeched to a halt. Anyway the tolls were very reasonable - I was classed as Class 1 due to size and was soon round Casablanca and following the coast once more.

At Oualidia I stopped in a large carpark with numerous other vans and paid Ali the 40 dirhams (£3) to stay the night. The superb beach ten minutes walk away was a real delight with beautifully decorated oyster stalls on the way up. The golden sands and crashing surf combined with a setting sun made for a remarkable backdrop to a horse and rider and the colourful fishing boats looked lovely hauled high above the tideline. Back at the carpark I chatted with Steve and Fiona who live off grid in Spain south of Valencia and were fascinated that I have lived van life now for almost twenty years.

 

Another steady day along the coast past a huge petrochemical works and port near Safi, took me through smart Essaouira and down to a surfing village at Sidi Kaouki where a few miles further south at Camping Azrou (see P4N) a young couple are making an effort to establish a small campsite just in from a superb beach. It's early days yet but they were friendly and enthusiastic and I enjoyed a quiet and warm night after walking the beach at sunset. In the scrubland behind the beach were a number of vans free camping but I feel we should support facilities if available as the majority of European vans can well afford it.

The N1 twisted its way inland for a while and after stopping to buy 20 kg of oranges for a tenner I stuck to it before taking a side route to Tifnite where overnight parking is no longer allowed. Thus I carried on in to Tiznit and cut through more hilly lands having glanced across at the rugged mountains of the Ameln around Tafraout. I had filled up with 70 litres of Shell V Power for £80 and the friendly pump attendant had offered me the chance to fill my fresh water tank which was good news. The steady driving had produced a remarkable 48mpg from BP Ultimate fuel and should save even more money as the always numerous police checkpoints now have far more radar guns than before - thus 60km/hr is the default for anywhere with housing and it's only 80km/hr on most of the other roads.

 

Arriving on the coast again I was soon pulling off down a dirt track to park at a previous favourite perched high above the stunning Legzira Arch. Sibi was occupying the small shack and keeping an eye on the few friendly stray dogs but said there was no longer any charge to stay. He was a really nice guy and had worked in Leipzig last year but decided he would rather live more simply back near his family.

There were a few other vans scattered about and I took the rocky path down to the beach to enjoy the spectacular natural feature as the sun set. Overnight a warm katabatic wind blew down from the mountains and quite a lot of dust spilled over those parked on the far side of the scrub.

I decided a break from moving on was justified having covered 2000 miles from home (not including the ferry crossing which adds another 500 or so) with about 700 done in Morocco. Layounne is another 300, Dakhla 600, Nouakchott a 1000 and Dakar 1500........................

Thus I walked down to the beach again, through the arch and past the simplest of shacks that fishermen occupy tucked hard against the cliff. Whilst rounding a headland I got caught by a rogue wave and my phone took a quick dip. The screen flashed up a raindrop icon warning that there was water detected in the charging port and advised me not to insert a charger until dry. This was easy enough in the warm sun but I shall have to be more careful in future. Another remarkable arch led through to a beach and a track up to the cliff top after which it was a fair walk back to the van. I passed a simple shack where presumably grandma was washing a few clothes and a beautiful young mum came out with her two infants to shyly say hello. How they live there with no water or power and stuck in the middle of arid rocky terrain I cannot imagine.

Back at the van an Austrian van had decided that parking right next to me and totally blocking my view was acceptable. Initially I though it was just for that all important Insta picture but when they set off walking I queried their intentions, received a dismissive response so decided to move fifty yards or so to be away from them : I am well aware of the contrast between my petty concerns and the hard life lived by the family I'd met just minutes earlier.

 

Later whilst doing this blog Sibi came over to borrow a small hex bit as he wanted to dismantle a rechargeable drill which we managed but to no avail as it was still kaput. I then put a meter on the battery which turned out to be flat. I could have easily charged it for him but the charging unit was back at his family home where they have basic solar power so we had to leave it. Later he bought over some tea and we enjoyed a good chat in 3 different languages. Finally I took another walk down to the arch as the sun set behind it before returning to cook a spag bol for the next few days and steak and veg for tonight's meal.

Tomorrow I will head south again but with two months until Mandy joins me at Agadir in March I have plenty of time to explore what for me will be pastures new south of Fort Bou Jerif. It's a long haul across the Western Sahara and my progress may well be determined by factors outside of my control so with luck I will post again in a week or so, meanwhile enjoy more piccies

 HERE 

 

DECEMBER'S DAWDLE SOUTH

We left Langdale after the thaw had set in and planned to visit my aunt in York on the way down to Sheffield only to hear very sadly that she had passed away. However we called on the family on the Saturday and relived many happier memories before a safe final leg home.

I spent a day sorting out the van ready for my departure on Tuesday and added in my old Moroccan gas bottles, a single sleeping bag and the new EcoFlow River2 power pack/inverter that had arrived sooner than expected.

 

An oil and filter change plus ancillary belt on the Monday threw up no surprises and I am grateful to Maddy and her team at Autohaus Dolby for continuing good service. Thus I have 10,000 miles before further work is required having recently also changed air and fuel filters. I have two each of these as spares and 6l of oil plus a filter stored onboard should I encounter poor quality fuel or sandstorms later in the trip.

No such dramas were encountered on my way to Portsmouth where I arrived in plenty of time for the late evening sailing. I took a walk round the neighbourhood opposite the ferry terminal in search of aspirin I'd forgotten to pick up and was somewhat unnerved by the slightly rough and ready environment.

We were loaded and away on time and the route out of Portsmouth was as fascinating as ever and left time to grab a late meal in the Commodore Lounge as I had paid for the pass. My cabin was fine and I slept well but the following day whilst the sea appeared calm there was in fact a huge swell and the vessel rolled and pitched more than you might expect. Thus after breakfast and a walk round I retired to my cabin and largely slept through the crossing, as we arrived at Santander things had calmed down so I enjoyed a good breakfast but didn't feel I had had my £85 worth so probably wouldn't take that option again..

Down on the car deck I spotted an old T3 in the next lane who had been directed to park far too close to the larger van in front. During the crossing both had come in to contact and he had two fist sized holes in his windscreen caused by the other van's bike rack. The crew had tied down these and other vehicles after the event and I felt really sorry for the guy as he would be unlikely to get a replacement screen before New Year and would need a serviced site for the wait. Leaving him to fill out forms with one of the ship's officers I left counting my blessings and was through immigration and customs in minutes with the sat nav soon having me on the road south.

With almost a week to get to Marvao I was in no rush and stopped mid afternoon on an aire in Saldana, took a walk round the village, did some food shopping and picked up a Lycamobile SIM card with 100Gb for 15 euros to stick in my spare phone to avoid paying the post Brexit roaming fee.

After an afternoon nap I woke to see a large peacock standing on the table outside who was clearly used to being fed by vanners and hoped he would not appear at first light even though with Spain being an hour different that would not be until 08.30.

Next day after a good night's sleep I visited the spectacular remains of a large Roman villa at nearby Olmeda and enjoyed the many well preserved mosaics and outlines of the various rooms all housed under a vast protective roof.

 

Further south at Fromista which is a popular stop on the Camino de Santiago I visited the very well preserved romanesque church of San Martin and had lunch at a small cafe who's menu del dia was very much hearty local cooking. Medina de Rio Seco was my next stop with it's main street in the old centre lined by shops whose upper storeys were supported by huge timber pillars. The Christmas lights added to an enchanting scene and I was very moved by the sight of a large group of excited old ladies all trooping in to the sports centre for a Christmas meal.

 A couple of interesting castles on my way south included one where all that remained was a huge circular keep that was in a state of collapse situated above a church that had been stabilised following similar issues.

At Medina Del Campo the main attraction is the huge brick built Castle Mota whose ground floor and ramparts I could visit - the guided tour of other floors began late afternoon and as always I was keen to avoid driving after dark.

 

 

Arriving on a very cold, grey and damp afternoon at Madrigal de Las Altas Torres I parked in the rather desolate aire with a thick fog reducing visibility. However I donned my superwarm down jacket and walked the perimeter of this rather lovely town that once had over 60 towers of which 20 or so remain. In the eerie light and empty streets it was very mystical and would be worth another visit in warm sunshine. The heater soon had the van warmed up on my return and I slept well waking to yet more fog.

As I approached Bejar though the clouds rolled back and blue skies appeared as I drove through the Sierra Francia to arrive on the aire at La Albueca a mountain village with a maze of old streets and traditional buildings. There was time to do a walk through the pine woods to an excellent viewpoint before returning to the village which was much busier. This turned out to be due to the switching on of the Christmas lights which transformed the main square and delighted the crowds. Unfortunately although sponsored by Ferrero Rocher there were no freebies being given out, probably no bad thing as our two weeks in Langdale had been a little indulgent. 

 

It was a cold night but all my window insulation paid off and the morning sun soon got to work as I descended roads with icy patches in the shade and stopped for diesel. Just along from the garage a car was being winched from a ditch but the two occupants seemed unharmed and down on the plain everything had warmed up.

Coria in Extremadura had another historic centre and some very fine walls but being a Monday most of the public buildings were closed, however just walking round in warm sun under impossibly blue skies was more than enjoyable. Another hour or so saw me crossing the Tagus on a spectacular Roman bridge near Alcantara before pulling in to Carbajo right on the Spanish/Portuguese border. This tiny village had provided an excellent aire (even though the EHU was off) and I enjoyed a short walk round the 3 streets before returning to sit in the sun and admire a striking mural on a municipal building across the road. A Polish couple who I thought might be staying drove off as I think they were hoping for power to heat their van - the Eber is probably the single best piece of kit I have and friends in Derbyshire have just installed one to keep their RV warm. The new SIM wanted to pick up the Portuguese network but as I had not activated roaming before leaving Spain (which technically I hadn't) I couldn't fire up so reverted to using my UK allowance and paying the post Brexit £3 - perhaps I could send the bill to Boris or Nigel....

I picked up bread and a few bits in Valencia D'Alcantara before taking familiar roads full of very happy memories across the old border point and on in to the Alentejo. As I had made good time I nipped up to Marvao and surprised Joao at work in the shop before walking the sun soaked walls as eagles soared above the cliffs. I then realised I had forgotten to activate the Lyca roaming so nipped back to Valencia before finally turning up at the delightful Camping Asseiceira, my base for about a fortnight.

After a quick catch up with Gary I filled up with water, grabbed a pitch that would get full sun and allow me to keep an eye on the house and gate and then offloaded the bikes and other bits and bobs.

Gary and Joao headed off on the Thursday leaving me the two dogs and an assortment of cats to keep an eye on, the locals were harvesting what has apparently been a bumper olive crop and I enjoyed walking the back lanes passing traditional old farmhouses with even more seeming empty as the older generation pass away but younger descendants migrate to the cities or even abroad for work.

 

Down at Beira the station looked as amazing as ever but still lacks a meaningful post closure role although the rail bike set up and small hotel are trying hard. Whilst sat in the sun at Bernardo's cafe a couple approached me and began asking questions in Portuguese so of course I feigned ignorance at which point she switched to English. She and her husband were visiting the station to take photos and videos as he was planning to create a replica model railway based on the place. They also wanted to find locals with memories of its heyday and had been told of a 90 year old with white hair who used the cafe ....... thanks.

I drove over to Portalegre on the Friday to stock up with food and was disappointed to find that the Bricomarche DIY store had no 907 Campingaz cylinders in stock. Fortunately I am on EHU so it's not vital but again availability is something of a nuisance.

So a quiet Christmas weekend was spent with the dogs being walked twice a day and the sun warm enough for afternoons sat in the sun planning my onward journey. The van got a good clean out thanks to a handy Henry and some elbow grease.

Joao returned on Thursday after a successful trip to see family and I restocked at the Pingo Doce in Castello de Vide before yesterday doing a 40 mile ride out to the Barragem at Povoa and back through Beira and Bernardo's once more. Joao took the dogs with him for the weekend so I had a lie in this morning and have been busy with booking the ticket to Tangier (£214 one way) and compiling a handy reckoner for currency conversions from the pound and euro to dirhams, the Mauritanian Ouiguiga and the Central African Franc as used in Senegal.

Printing off these documents and updating the blog has given me a chance to try the EcoFlow River 2 which is a clever piece of kit and will allow me to preserve the van's leisure battery, provide additional power storage and be a useful portable power source for 12v DC, 13 amp AC and twin USB A ports.

So with luck my next post in a week or two will be from Morocco - I am heading more or less straight to Algeciras on Friday and Saturday and will then head steadily south as Dakar is some 2500 miles away and things will only get hotter as the New Year moves on.

So wishing everyone a very Happy New Year : remember 'life is short so keep it sweet'...............

Flix ere.

A NOVEMBER TO REMEMBER

 As expected the van passed its MOT with no issues or advisories and Autohaus Dolby had sourced and fitted an OEM starter motor - the old one was the original and after 22 years might I thought be about to expire - the only time I needed recovery in the old van was when the SM failed so thank you Maddison and the team.

I packed up for a solo trip of five weeks and headed down to Church Stretton which allows overnight parking for vans. This set me up for catching the Heart of Wales Line train down to Swansea next day - it's a lovely route but notoriously unreliable but the train manager assured me that this one would go all the way to Swansea and return as she was on it both ways. Thus 3 and a bit hours through the familiar scenery of mid and south Wales on a sunny Autumn day passed very enjoyably with time for a pie and a pint in Swansea before I headed back. On the way down the northbound train was running late so as we couldn't enter the single track token controlled section the TM announced we would be waiting at Llanwrtyd Wells long enough to walk in to town for the shop which a few of us did.

By the time we reached Llandrindod Wells the train was empty but a rather unruly drunk boarded and the TM asked if she could sit next to me as a precaution. He stumbled off at Knighton and the rather eerie train carried on towards Shrewsbury with just myself as a passenger.

After calling on my brother in Bishop's Castle I stocked up in Newtown for a spell at Llangurrig where I sat out a few wet days. I tried to ride up to the nearby bothy but my chain kept slipping so I returned to base just before the heavens opened.

After a night in Brecon for badminton I collected a fully overhauled bike from Jason at Biped Cycles : £650 covered a new rear wheel, block, chain and chainring plus bottom bracket bearings and rear pads, I use the bike a lot so after two years this seemed reasonable enough. I joined friends in Sennybridge for a meal at the Shoemakers before heading down to Swansea to look at various options for a new laptop. Two nights at Kidwelly Quay gave me a superb ride in bright sunshine through Pembrey, Burry Port and along to Swansea. Later I walked the shore path and had the stunning spectacle of four marsh ponies careering across the muddy flats, ploughing up the river and then heading towards me arriving in a flurry of sweat and sea water - they were just being inquisitive and perhaps, although in vain, hoping for a carrot or two.

 

I moved on intending to spend a night on a small aire north of Llantrisant so arrived at Ali and Amy's smallholding reached by some rather tight lanes. It was a quiet spot and handily placed for a visit to the Museum of Rural Life at St Fagan's the next day. This is mainly a collection of various old buildings from around Wales and is well worth a visit. It was a bright sunny day and I enjoyed  revisiting the place after perhaps 30 years. Friendly and informative staff were sat tending open fires in the older buildings and work was under way to open the latest attraction - an old pub. I also visited the castle and gardens which had not been available last time which add to an already worthwhile attraction.

 

Back at the aire I decided to stay on and had a chat with the owners about my previous life and their hopes for the set up - access for larger vans is tricky but otherwise it is a lovely spot and I stayed on four nights. I visited the Royal Mint at Llantrisant which was within walking distance but felt it to be less absorbing than St Fagans. Their displays and exhibitions were interesting but access to the production areas was limited and understandably subject to strict security. On my return I passed a local curiosity - tucked away in a wooded valley a 'pagan' site consisted of an unusual rock protusion and some carved faces.

During some torrential rain the next day I headed in to Cardiff to the Fenix shop for a new head torch and rear bike light and to check out the John Lewis IT department where the staff seemed ill informed and disinterested. I also endured the delights of the NCP parking app, yet another modern day frustration.

On the Friday I headed up to the Whistle Inn just along from the UNESCO WH site of Blaenavon where the pub offers somewhat dishevelled camping high up in the hills. With no usable facilities other than water and a manhole cover I was grateful for the van's off grid capabilities as the Eber purred away on a damp and chilly evening. A couple from a van with not even a pop top looked cold and uncomfortable, not helped by them running out of gas the next morning. He came over to borrow a spanner but did not have a spare cylinder and hadn't realised that his size of Calor is no longer available.

As it was a fresh but sunny day I followed the cycle routes down the Clydach gorge with a stunning array of autumn colours to the canal that took me via the Goytre Wharf cafe to Ponytpool where I picked up the cycle track towards Abersychan. Here I rang Crad's son who lives nearby and was soon introduced to their delightful first son Henry who was an absolute charmer. George and Teri have taken on a fair old project with their large house but seemed very positive about everything. Back at the pub after almost fifty miles I was pleased with how much better the bike felt and enjoyed a hot shower and cosy van with good TV reception.

 

On the Sunday I moved on to the Promenade at Brecon for another quiet night in Brecon prior to the first of two dental appointments so presented myself on the Monday morning for a surprisingly quick extraction after which I headed to a friend's empty house at Talybont - they were away visiting family in Queensland and had offered their drive as a park up : much appreciated.

The following day I returned to Brecon to meet up with Pete and Nina who were on a tour of Wales in their new Ducato and we enjoyed a walk round Brecon, lunch at the excellent tapas bar - The Hop Inn - before later that evening going to the pics to see the rather lengthy Killers Of  The Flower Moon. Another energetic badminton session was followed by a quick call in at Sennybridge for post before I tucked away at the Usk reservoir with time to walk the perimeter path. It was a quiet spot although another van arrived at midnight, faffed about noisily and then drove off to the far side of the dam - cheers pal.

My plan to catch the HOWL train from Llandovery to Llandrindod was thwarted by cancellations so I drove to Cynghordy instead and completed a circular walk that took in the impressive viaduct. On my way back I got talking to a mother and son who manage a herd of 350 Saanen milking goats with the milk going to a cheese maker at Abergavenny. The goats seemed content to be housed year round and were quietly inquisitive as the son proudly gave me a tour of their 60 bay milking parlour. I moved on to the Sugar Loaf where the eponymous next station down is usually identified as the least used station in the UK. The car park for the short walk up to the summit with good views looks a good spot to tuck away some time. On the Sunday I headed down to my old haunts in the Swansea valley enjoying coffee with former neighbours and a good catch up with a fellow smallholder after almost 5 years. Great to see his kids now young adults and on their way in life.

After a walk round his fields and woods I returned to Brecon as a second dental appointment loomed for the Monday.

 

This did not go quite as well as the first - a wisdom tooth came out with ease but the final extraction took 90 minutes, involved some gruesome procedures and left both myself and the dentist somewhat shell shocked. I retreated to Talybont for two nights and cycled the canal out to Abergavenny the following day feeling a bit roughed up.

A covid booster jab on the Wednesday plus some anti malarials ordered online via Boots saw me as prepared as possible for the forthcoming jaunt to West Africa but after the long drive to Sheffield on Thursday I felt a bit rough and had an early night.

On Friday we packed up the van for our trip to Cumbria and headed off for Skipton via York where we visited my aunt who is now in care permanently and my uncle who is resting at home exhausted after four years of looking after her in the family home. Their son Michael is proving to be an absolute rock but clearly has a lot on his plate. Skipton main car park had perhaps 20 vans spread around and the town was busy on a crisp Friday night but we enjoyed a good meal in the Two Sisters Bar opposite the castle and enjoyed the Saturday market before a big Tesco shop and the run to Langdale.

 

As always the lodge was immaculately presented and we unpacked and settled in before Penny arrived on the Sunday. Whilst booking a table for midweek at the Stove restaurant I realised I had mislaid my bank card and after a search of the lodge and van worked out that it was last seen back at Tesco's - fortunately I eventually made contact with the store to confirm it was safely with Customer Service.

Thus late on Sunday evening I enjoyed a fast drive on empty roads in a lightly laden van, parked up overnight at Gargrave station and arrived bright and early at CS only to find they didn't open until 8 - thus a meal deal and Top Gear on IPlayer filled two hours before I retrieved my card and was back by 10am. We walked locally and dined well in the Stove restaurant which has at last managed to recruit staff and chefs and provides a good range of menu options.

On Tuesday Tony from Blackburn arrived early on a bright morning and the four of us set off over to Little Langdale stopping at Dale End Farm where hot drinks and cakes are available under a covered area with an honesty box. Passing through Tilberthwaite via the lovely Slater's bridge we went our separate ways at Tilberthwaite Gill as the girls returned via Hodge Close and Colwith to Skelwith Bridge and we climbed alongside the Gill to head south to wards Coniston before swinging north for an easy ascent of Wetherlam with stunningly clear views across to Ingleborough, Pendle Hill, Heysham power station and the fells to the north, some with a dusting of snow. Our route continued via Prison Band to Swirl How with a return via Wet Side Edge and down in to Greenburn. The last hour back past Dale End by head torch was great fun and concluded a 13 mile walk in perfect conditions.

Wednesday saw a walk over Loughrigg to Ambleside on a chilly day with the bus back and after an indulgent session in the spa and super hot pool with an outdoor section Penny left on Thursday giving us time to enjoy a swim before Marcus and Sandra arrived on the Friday with an excellent curry.

 

We woke to an inch or so of snow on Saturday morning and were mesmerised by the further 8 inches that fell in the next few hours bringing most of South Cumbria to a halt. I had drained the van water but forgot to open the various sink and shower taps so put up all the window insulation and left both the Eber and electric heater blasting away for a few hours. The lodge cleaning teams were unable to get home that night and various guests were trapped on site with new arrivals unable to get beyond Windermere. We walked out to Colwith Bridge and round to Skelwith Bridge via the converted byre at Park House with hot drinks and cakes available. Stove were able to honour our booking so we all enjoyed another excellent meal and took in the magic of 9 inches of snow that had settled vertically in the absence of any wind. The roads were impassable all day so Marcus and Sandra stayed a third night but got away and home safely this morning leaving us a final few milder and wetter days that should see the white stuff on its way.

 

We return to Sheffield on Saturday, the van has an oil change booked for a week today and a week tomorrow I should be on the ferry to Santander so with luck my next post will be from a warmer and sunnier Portugal.......

More pix ear...

WALES AND THE SOUTH WEST

 After a quick sort out of maps and kit we headed away to Newtown where Grooms Garage undertook the two yearly Eber service which is never cheap as the glow plug alone is almost a hundred squids but with a good clean out and all post Moroccan dust removed this indispensable utility should be fit for the next couple of years.

We then stayed a night at Llangurrig before dropping down to the Elan Valley and walking in to Lluest Cwm Bach bothy to take measurements for Martin the MO to replace a door catch and fit a new internal wall to the loo as some genius had decided to burn the original. Similarly gifted individuals had also stayed the weekend and left their rubbish everywhere including a fresh dump right by the front door and a Tesco Club Card. There would be little likelihood of Tesco divulging any information, let alone the local constabulary taking an interest so yet again we cleaned up as best we could and carted several bags out to the van. Down at the Elan Valley Trust office the ever helpful Annette said we could use their skip and arranged for a quad and trailer to be available in a week or two to carry in materials across the bog of doom.

After a quick shower and change in the van we drove on down to Sennybridge where we had a good catch up with Crad and Dawn on a windswept and rainy night. Next day in Brecon I checked that the bodyshop was still expecting the van in the following week for a couple of patches of rust to be dealt with and we then arrived at Lower Chapel which would be our base for ten days.

I set about replacing the discs and pads all round but was initially stymied by a recalcitrant caliper mouning bolt that was in danger of rounding off - however some penetrating oil and a cup of tea followed by a higher quality socket eventually had the thing moving and by the end of the day all was well. The rear pads were almost through but the discs seemed fine. Up front there was plenty of life left on the pads so I suspect they were two different brands. Anyway as since the long descents in the Atlas Mountains I have had a judder on braking I replaced everything all round as planned so should be good for another 30k miles on the pads and 60k on the discs.

Unfortunately my left knee which had been recovering well from a graze sustained in Dumfries objected to being knelt on for many hours and began to get inflamed to the extent that by Friday Jan ran me down to the MIU at Brecon where I was seen almost immediately and prescribed 7 days of Flucloxacillin after the rather unsightly wound was cleansed and dressed. This freed the four of us up to go to Hay on Wye via the Railway Garden Centre to view the recently restored castle and enjoy the excellent cafe.

Dale arrived on Friday night as planned and we were all well fed as always by Jan and enjoyed their cosy sitting room and log burner.

Despite my knee and now swollen leg the four of us headed across the fields and forests to Erwood Craft Centre in the Wye Valley on a sunny day before Mandy and Jan headed back to do the animals and Dale and I added a longer loop out to the Roundabout and back via Glasbury and Boughrood. Pizzas that evening were well earned but we had a relatively early night as Jan and Ian were off to York from Newport the  following morning.

Having dropped them off I returned to Brecon and met with Dale for a ride along the canal to Talybont and then the long climb up to Torpantau. On the fast wet descent along a forestry track I came a cropper, avoided landing on the dodgy knee by landing on my face and thus added a bloodied nose to my list of woes. Later on the canal I took another tumble this time landing on the knee and seeing some very colourful stars - is it time to refit stabilisers?

So on the Monday I dropped the van down to Jeff Allen in Brecon and saw a new dentist who declared that I will need two extractions shortly before we met friends from Ystradgynlais for tapas at the small but excellent No37 The Watton. Later that day I was still unhappy with the knee so went back to the MIU who took a look and agreed that an Xray to exclude the possibility of a foreign body might be a good idea. Thus on Tuesday morning this was done and fortunately nothing untoward was found : the fast and efficient service I received was in stark contrast to the headlines we read about the state of the NHS and grateful for their input I took the staff some treats for break time. The van was also ready and I was pleased with the bumper scuff and rust removal for a very reasonable £160.

That evening 6 of us were back at No37 for yet another good catch up and excellent food and on Wednesday I collected Jan and Ian from Abergavenny after their trip up north. Mandy had done all the daily farm chores and really enjoyed herself and we all dropped down to see Arthur in the village whose house had been flooded yet again whilst he was on a winter cruise.

 

 Next day we drove over the Beacons to Pant above Merthyr where we caught the Brecon Mountain Railway steam train up to Pontsticill reservoir - it was something I'd never done and provided good views to the tops of Pen Y Fan and Corn Ddu as well as a chance to view their engineering shed and a delightful model railway. On our drive back via Talybont we met a young Afghan couple on a trip from Southampton who were planning to tackle the horseshoe walk above Neuadd reservoirs in totally unsuitable footwear and clothing so I hope they took on board my friendly advice. We moved on to stay on the Promenade in Brecon and went to see A Haunting In Venice, not a particularly must see film but it was lovely to hark back to our visit there earlier this year.

We called at Martin's house at the Mumbles to hand over the bothy details and reflected that our trip round to Lynton would be 150 miles by road as opposed to the 20 odd miles by water. We admired his workshops where he has been designing and manufacturing new roof components for the ongoing Cae Amos bothy roof project before heading east to Frome to deliver a food parcel to Pete who had recently undergone hand surgery. It was then a short run to Priddy where we stayed at Eastwater Farm with the intention of meeting friends from Portishead but they rang first thing to declare a Covid issue so we walked down to Wookey, up through Ebbor Gorge and over Deerleap to Westbury sub Mendip before climbing back over to Priddy where Pete had arrived after deciding his surgery didn't prevent him driving. Dale and his wife joined us for an evening in the Hunters Inn which has hardly changed in the 40 years I have been calling in. Roger the landlord looks frailer but the hearty food was as good value as ever. On Sunday Pete took us down to Burrington for a good walk on a sunny day over Rowberrow with  great views across to Wales, and back via Tynings. With a service stop required we dropped down on to the Levels and stayed at Pine Tree Farm giving us the opportunity for a ride out across the lanes eventually reaching Glastonbury for a walk round. At the farm a newly arrived calf was very endearing.

Wednesday saw us heading over to Bishop's Lydeard where we were booked on the West Somerset Railway Cheese and Cider Special that rolled up to Minehead passing Blue Anchor as we enjoyed several decent cheeses, salad and rolls with a bottle of cider, followed after a couple of hours in Minehead by a cream tea on the return journey : yet another brilliant occasion made all the more memorable by friendly volunteer staff who were enjoying their work.

 At Watchett we parked near the station and took a walk round town on a mild evening before taking a pint in the Pebble Inn. Unfortunately we had just mised the chippie but were tempted by the aromas from the Spice Merchant where we enjoyed one of the best Indian meals of recent times before a quiet night in the van. After walking round the town once more and visiting the Grayson Perry exhibition at the East Quay arts complex we drove on to Dunster where we were supposed to meet Greg and Alex at the Luttrell Arms for lunch. Unfortunately they too had tested for Covid so just the two of us enjoyed lunch in the comfortable surroundings before finding a few previously unknown corners of the pretty village. 

Round at Lynton we elected to stay in the van and socialise at a distance with Greg and Alex who had decided to cancel their trip - using their lovely annexe would have involved closer contact and more work for Alex and the good weather enabled us to enjoy sitting outside and catching up. I also quickly jacked up the NSF wheel as in a rare rookie error I had incorrectly routed the brake wear indicator wire  and it had chafed triggering a warning light. Mandy also assisted me in renewing the brake fluid which completed all the servicing of the van prior to the next trip and MOT.

On the Saturday we walked down to Lynmouth to catch the Exmoor Coaster open topped bus for a memorably fun roller coast ride up Countisbury Hill, across the tops and down the mighty Porlock Hill - alarming for us despite the excellent driving. From Minehead we enjoyed a few hours walk along the Coast Path back to Porlock and caught the bus back, only slightly disappointed that it was on an ordinary one as the other had developed a fault. That evening we walked down to the local Indian takeaway who will fill your own prepurchased metal tiffin pans to cut down on plastic waste.

Moving on further down the coast after a morning laundry session we enjoyed an afternoon in the sun on a small site that also produces its own cider before arriving in Ilfracombe on Monday morning. We confirmed our booking for Tuesday at the Lundy Ticket Office, took a look round the town and enjoyed a crab sandwich at the sailing club overlooking the harbour.

Up at Mullacott Farm we packed our bags for the Lundy trip and next morning joined another group in a pre booked taxi down to the harbour, the remarkable coincidence of us all sharing the same surname caused the taxi controller some confusion but we all got there and our bags were soon craned aboard. On time at 10.00 we set sail for the two hour crossing, initially hugging the spectacular coast and then heading straight for the distant island. The 70 year old MV Oldenberg provided deck seating and a covered bar and galley below so I was tempted by a bacon sandwich as the calm sea was not causing me any issues. We arrived at the quay to be greeted by island staff who busied themselves with off loading luggage and cargo as we watched the numerous seals and pups sprawled on the beaches. A steep walk up to the village gave Mandy a chance to see the other properties available and at the shop we were told ours was all ready to occupy so we walked over to the 800 year old castle where the quaint Castle Keep South cottage was both warm and welcoming. Back at the as expected slightly pricy shop we bought the food required for four nights and by the time we had returned our bags had arrived. The accommodation was within the walls of the keep so only had one outward facing window across to Hartland Point with the others facing the two other cottages that formed 3 sides of the keep.

 

We set off on a walk up the east coast of the island as far as Tibbetts and then crossed to the more rugged west coast for a return via the Old Lighthouse. Built in 1820 it was abandoned after only 70 years as it was frequently shrouded in cloud and replaced by two lower ones at the northern and southern ends of the island. However it is still possible to climb the many steps to the top and enjoy 360 degree views from two deckchairs on the internal platform. The cottage was warm and comfortable so we stayed in reading up on the history of the island and its preservation before sleeping soundly.

Tuesday saw us following the south and then west coast up to the old Battery House where 13 people across two families had lived in a pair of semi detached cottages with the responsibilty of firing blanks from two old canon when the fog was down. Returning home we met a large Highland cow, saw deer and Soay sheep and passed a few of the hardy Lundy ponies before a well earned drink in the Marisco Tavern and another peaceful evening. 

 

Wednesday was forecast to be sunny all day so we walked to the northernmost tip, dropped below the lighthouse down some very dilapidated steps to the old landing point and enjoyed seal watching in splendid isolation. Earlier we had talked to the guys from Devon and Cornwall Fire and Rescue who had been on our sailing and were spending two days checking the island's fire security, training staff members and refeshing themselves on cliff rescue and other scenarios. A return to the lighthouse platform gave us a half decent sunset before we returned after dark as a storm rolled in.

Thursday was a bit wet initially so we walked down to the landing stage to watch more seals, climb up to the south lighthouse and then attend a talk on the island's birdlife by the resident ornithologist. Total eradication of the rat population a decade ago has led to a huge increase in survival rates for several species and there is a regular programme of ringing and data recording to monitor further progress. We enjoyed an excellent meal in the Marisco Tavern that evening at a very reasonable price and met our fellow taxi riders who were all staying in the large Millcombe House that had been the family home of the island's last private owner. They were all on a trip organised by Naturetrek who run natural history tours around the world.

On the Friday we visited the small museum, read all the info in the church and had a final visit to the lighthouse platform before packing for the Saturday departure.

Our last day saw us  leaving our luggage for collection, stripping the beds and tidying round before following a different lower path up the east coast passing the old granite quarries and descending to sea level for more seal watching. We had met members of the Friends of Lundy Volunteer Conservation group who had spent a varied week improving footpaths, clearing out the pond below Millcombe and repairing fences. They were from around the UK and sharing the island's bunkhouse accommodation with self catering but were also leaving that day so having watched the Oldenberg arrive at midday we all assembled on the quay for departure. Another steady crossing saw us back in Ilfracombe at 6 and we were soon back at Mullacott grateful for the heater as it had turned chilly.

A laundry stop in Ilfracombe preceeded our arrival in Okehampton at friends who moved there last year and live in a large sunny cottage surrounded by extensive gardens and acres of mixed woodland which we explored on a walk. Sue fed us well as always and on the Monday we all cycled down to the town to pick up the Granite Way which forms part of the Devon Coast to Coast we had ridden a few years back. It was fresh but dry as we rode down to Lydford with its gorge, church, castle and more importantly cosy pub where we enjoyed lunch : local venison for me. On our return we called at the excellent Pump and Pedal, a combined bike shop and cafe for very good hot chocolates before the hills home where again Sue fed us well and we played some entertaining table tennis.

After passing Dartmoor Prison and taking a rest up on the moor as we were both starting a cold we visited John at Crediton but kept our distance as we caught up on hedgehog and duck news.

Heading north at last we enjoyed the Fleet Air Arm Museum at RNAS Yeovilton on a very wet day where fortunately the numerous exhibits are under cover. The display of well known fixed and rotary winged aircraft from across history was very impressive and we enjoyed a talk about the development of Concorde beneath the wings of the 2nd working prototype which we could also explore. The mocked up flight deck and command centre of the aircraft carrier HMS Ark Royal was very well done and we left at the close after a successful day.

Arriving back at Pine Tree Farm Barbara was only able to have us for the one night so we serviced the bathroom and topped up the battery before moving on to Priddy the following day after a visit to Wells for a guided tour of the cathedral including the stunning Chapter Room.

Eastwater Farm was very peaceful but we were both feeling a bit rough so just took a short walk down the Velvet Bottom valley above Cheddar Gorge and then had lunch in the van before meeting up with friends in Portishead. The Aqua restaurant provided yet another excellent meal that evening and we met Barney the new (ish) labrador as well as checking out their van conversion.

The final leg of our journey was back to Sheffield via Dethick near Matlock to see the friends I had last met in Germany in late July. En route we diverted to look at another T4 Topaz near Kidderminster but whilst its interior was immaculate there were a few bodywork and engine concerns that raised a query. I'm not looking to change this one but it's always worth a look at options....

It was good to see Pete and Nina again in a rather soggy Derbyshire - we managed to get up on to the field for water and parked facing downhill for a sure getaway before walking over to their new location on hardstanding with water, power and a septic tank alongside a barn. Nina provided snacks and nibbles and we enjoyed the luxury of RV life. Sunday's plan to catch the open top bus again was thwarted as flooding had caused the service to be suspended but a day in Bakewell followed by a walk to Hassop station was more than adequate and we enjoyed a ride in their Dreamer D68.

So yesterday we returned to Sheffield where I spent the day cleaning and unloading the van ready for its MOT - I changed the fuel filter and swopped the now empty and redundant Calor Gas bottles for my 3 European Camping Gaz ones and then spent a few hours catching up with Penny.

Today the van passed its MOT with flying colours, Autohaus Dolby had sourced a VW starter motor which whilst more expensive should last as long as the one removed which was 22 years old, and also swopped the four rear caliper bolts that had been so tricky to remove a few weeks back.

Thus I am set to head off for mid and North Wales tomorrow with a month to myself only slightly marred by the prospect of two dental extractions in November before our fortnight in Cumbria.

CLICKY PICCY

Northern Delights

Keen as always to avoid Bank Holiday crowds we decided to stay fairly local and visit Hope Agricultural Show in the Peak District so drove to near Ladybower Reservoir and then cycled the last few miles overtaking long queues of stationary traffic. The show was excellent with a good range of displays and stalls as well as the usual horticulture and craft competition marquees.

 

A highlight in the main ring was a superb display of horsemanship with a guy riding two horses standing on their backs and controlling up to 6 others in a free flowing display of great skill and coordination. Later a display of vintage tractors, vehicles and finally the livestock competition winners rounded off a very enjoyable day.

Later that week I headed off to Dent station via York visiting my elderly aunt in her care home and very much counted my blessings as I pulled up to the remote spot high above Garsdale where two years ago we had stayed in the Snow Huts. To enjoy the Settle Carlisle line I decided to hop on a train down to Skipton and back just to enjoy the route and later enjoyed a quiet night with not even the overnight freight trains rumbling through due to strike action. I later meandered across to Penrith where friends had invited me for dinner and to overnight. It was good to catch up and as always I was keen to see his ever expanding model railway layout.

The Solway Aviation Museum north of Carlisle was well worth the visit, had a very reasonable admission price (£6) and provided a rare opportunity to climb in to the cockpit of a very well preserved Vulcan bomber. This sleek delta wing aircraft had carried our nuclear deterrent at the height of the Cold War but only engaged in combat missions during the Falklands conflict when flown via Ascension Island to bomb Port Stanley - refuelling and support meant that each mission used 1,000,000 gallons of fuel.......

 

Other aircraft on display included jets, survey aircraft and fighters with access encouraged to many. The various buildings housed displays relating to the Battle of Britain, Bomber Command and the Dambusters as well as Britain's ultimately unsuccessful participation in a nuclear weapon system known as Bluestreak tested at Woomera in Australia.

 

A lovely drive took me through Dumfries and Galloway to one of the 7Stanes mountain centres at Dalbeattie where under the excellent Stay the Night scheme run by Forest Scotland self contained vans can overnight for £7. There were 3 other vans in the large parking area and on a sunny evening I took myself off to test the easy going blue and green runs. This then set me up for the more challenging red route on the Sunday morning which I had pretty much to myself. Over exuberance saw me part company with the bike on a rocky descent leading to a decent grazed knee but otherwise it was a good ride with stunning views.

Moving on to Glentrool I tackled the 36 mile loop that passed near enough Newton Stewart to be worth diverting for refreshments before continuing through stunning scenery to return via a section of the Southern Upland Way passing White Laggan Bothy. I fitted in the blue loop afterwards but as overnighting wasn't permitted I dropped down to Garliestown for a great night tucked away on a Britstop behind the Harbour Inn which did excellent food.  During WW2 the large bay had been used to test various designs of the Mulberry Harbours, whilst today a few fishing boats still operate from the dock. The CAMHC site wanted £38 a night had I decided to stay there - an outrageous amount so I was more than happy to dine well at the pub who also allowed me to fill up with water.

 

Pulling up at Kirroughtree where I planned to stay overnight I set up on the large car park and enjoyed the red trail that climbed high before swooping and swerving back to the centre. After a quiet night I followed the blue route before moving on to a small aire south of Dumfries having taken the longer but more scenic coast road through Kirkbean. This community supported initiative at Glencaple on the banks of the Nith was perfect with a stylish cafe next door and a good pub across the road. A few other vans were lined up for the sunset and it was another peaceful night.

 

Yet another of the Stanes lay at Mabie where a red route took me past a beautiful marble sculpture before following a mixture of tracks and trails through the forest and around the hills.

My final trail centre was at the Forest of Ae but as I headed out I noticed a loose bolt in the chainring and then that two more had fallen out already so with a fair few miles ahead of me decided to abort the ride and instead enjoy a quiet evening in the sun with yet again and surprisingly, no midges.

After a cracking five days and ten trails in warm sunny weather I headed back towards England stopping at Longtown where the Bikeseven cycle shop took great trouble to find me replacement bolts - these were in fact pedal studs which combined with a small spanner of the right size soon did the trick.

My destination was a small CS site near Appleby that provided nothing more than a quiet field, water and a septic tank - perfect at £5/night and very convenient for parking at Appleby later, from where the following morning I caught the train down to Skipton, enjoyed an hour in the town and then met Mandy who had travelled via Leeds from Sheffield. We jumped off at Appleby and took a walk round the town admiring the charming collection of almshouses that provide supervised housing for widows and spinsters and enjoyed tea and cake in a quiet courtyard gallery.

 

 

 

Near Kirkby Stephen we enjoyed a section of the Northern Viaducts Walk before arriving mid evening back at Dent where we planned to stay two nights as on the Sunday the Flying Scotsman was due to pass through twice.

Saturday saw us enjoy a superb 30 mile ride along the Pennine Bridleway starting with a climb up the old Coal Road before turning south, crossing Cam Fell, dropping down to Horton in Ribblesdale and then climbing up on to the lower reaches of Ingleborough with the remarkable and extensive limestone pavements. The weather and views were superb and although I had done the same route two years ago it was still well worth the revisit and we were grateful for refreshments at the cafe in Faizor before dropping down to Settle for the return train home.

On Sunday morning a few people gathered on the bridge and platforms but having befriended the holiday makers in the Station House we walked down to the currently unoccupied Snow Huts for a great view of the iconic loco as it curved round from the jaws of Blea Moor tunnel. We mved on to Garsdale Head Station for a different view from Dandrymire Viaduct - during our wait I had a nose round an abandoned caravan in the station overflow car park only to set the damn thing off towards the tracks. I jumped out and it stopped moving to my great relief. Slightly behind schedule the Scotsman appeared heading south with the carriages full of happy customers and we moved on in absolute deluge through Mallerstang and back to the small site at  Brampton.

 

Monday was a little overcast and damp so we caught the train up to Carlisle and enjoyed the town centre, cathedral with its stunning Alhambra inspired blue ceiling and then toured Carlisle Castle and its military museum. Steak, wine and a bit of Monday quiz night telly ended a good day and we slept soundly being the only occupants.

Tuesday was settled enough to get out on the bikes for 52 miles up to Melmerby along quiet lanes, back via Brougham castle and a pub at Langwathby and then a final leg to Brampton once more with the line of the Pennine Hills as a backdrop to the east and the Lakeland Fells to the west.

Wednesday as hoped and forecast dawned bright and sunny so we moved on to park at Kirkland where a route up on to Cross Fell, the highest point on the Pennine Way started. An old bridleway wound slowly up to the higher fells and we continued on down to Greg's Hut a bothy renovated only last year that used to be miners accommodation during the working week. The standard of the work was top class and the bothy felt sturdy and fit for another hundred years in the exposed location. After lunch we continued up on to the summit of Cross Fell before returning via the Hanging Gardens of Mark Anthony which we failed to discover on the ground.

 

A small site near Penrith gave us a night on power as the heavens opened but Thursday dawned bright and sunny tempting us to park at Pooley Bridge and catch the Ullswater steamer down to Glenridding where lunch on the terrace of the Inn on the Lake was a real treat in the warm sunshine. 

We found a quiet pub with camping behind near Wigton and on a damp Friday carried on to a rain and windswept Silloth where one of us sat and read whilst the other took a tour of the town's highlights. The RNLI shop opened at 1 and was staffed by 3 jolly ladies who were tickled pink that we spent a fair bit on fund raising items for future gifts.

Finally to complete a very varied and entertaining time away we returned to the friends at Penrith for a final night enjoying an excellent meal once more and a comfy night on their drive.

 

Returning to Sheffield via York for another sobering care home visit was a steady enough journey - we had spent the morning at the Threlkeld Quarry and Mining Museum which was an absolute gem. Home to a large collection of vintage excavators reached by a short ride on a steam train we were absorbed by the sight of various machines tearing at a large bank of earth and rock with the main showpiece being a nearly 100 year old steam powered Ruston and Bucyrus 306 excavator that had been restored to working order after 50 years under water in a Bedfordshire Quarry whose lime stone waters had prevented rusting. The boiler even passed its safety inspection to operate at 80 psi with almost no work. This and similar heritage projects visited recently such as the Lancaster,Vulcan and S-C line were all inspiringly maintained and run by dedicated volunteers with a generosity and passion that is often under reported in mainstream media. During my time away I was hugely saddened by news of the earthquakes in Morocco and floods in Libya so hope to return to the former early next year and do what I can to support those who have lost so much.

Piccies here ------- take care all.