Sweden is BIG - Very BIG!

After seeing the future for VW at the Autostadt I also enjoyed a comprehensive history of their more iconic vehicles in the nearby museum before heading north for a more sobering look in to the past. Bergen Belsen is nowadays a place of peace and tranquility but the austere display building pulls no punches when it comes to describing the atrocities that took place 70 years ago - I also offer no apology for including some disturbing images in the photo link as sadly judging by world events we have learnt very little. All the buildings were eventually burnt down by the Allies to eradicate disease and the site now offers no more than trees and a stillness only interrupted by birdsong and ironically the sound of the heavy artillery of the 7th Armoured Brigade 'The Desert Rats' stationed nearby. This may also have explained the curious number of old camper vans tucked away in nearby woods which I had assumed were people wild camping but turned out to be the business premises of working girls as indicated by the fluffy dashboards and flashing red lights. I shall have to chose my spots carefully.
Luneberg and Lubeck were both crammed full of half timbered houses, mighty churches and impressive castles which I enjoyed en route to Puttgarden where on a whim I decided to get the next ferry over to Denmark. A couple of hours up to Copenhagen and a crossing of the impressive Ostersund Bridge put me in  Malmo in southern Sweden.
After enjoying the sunshine of the Skane coast I decided to head north and was soon passing through wonderful scenery with mixed woodland interspersed with shimmering lakes and dotted with brightly painted wooden houses that were all kept in perfect condition. Diesel prices were similar to the UK but food at least twice the price so the tinned and dried goods I have brought will have to go a fair way. Camp sites seemed about the UK average (which I still think outrageous for one) but by chance I met a retired nurse and her husband who had a list of smaller cheaper sites so was able to photocopy the details for future use.
Karlsborg's huge fortress was full of interest and sat beside a vast lake - rendered obsolete by advances in weaponry the town sized site is now a training academy and public museum
Mariestad had a centre full of old houses and an impressive church and I watched numerous boats traversing the Gotha canal which links Stockholm and Gothenburg saving a lengthy sea voyage.
I then headed in to the Sewdish high country towards the Norwegian border where the long winters attract skiers and skidooers in large numbers. At this time of year it is relatively quiet and I found plenty of small deserted sites with just the occasional hiking group staying. Sweden's highest waterfall freezes solid for 5 months of the year and is a popular ice climb but of course I saw it pouring majestically from the high plateau beyond. The highest campsite in Sweden at Tanandalet once recorded a temperature of -5 Celsius in July 1888 but was pleasantly warm during my stay which of course led to large numbers of flies and mosquitoes which played havoc with a group in tents. Yet again I was grateful for the relative comforts of the van and even found a TV channel in English with Swedish subtitles showing old UK day time telly.
A quick whizz over in to Norway rewarded me with my first sight of reindeer who were ambling around grazing the verges - they were surprisingly compact and looked rather shabby as they were moulting but made for a remarkable sight.
The remote and lonely road (Sweden's highest) over the Flatruet plateau dropped down in to Mittadalen from where a bike ride and walk took me to some Stone Age rock art that was eerily similar to the Aboriginal images in Kakadu, Northern Territory.
Isolated hamlets were dotted around - fishing and hunting are still traditions but the locals also provide wonderful huts and lodges for the visiting winter sports enthusiasts.
Last night I stayed out in the wilds where a young German couple have spent 13 years constructing lodges and a home whilst raising a young family - it was all perfectly presented but so far this year has been quiet and after a poor summer last year I did wonder how they managed - winter images in their brochure looked wonderful but I think the economic downturn in Europe will have a serious effect on their business.
Today has seen a long haul north as I want to maximise my stay in Norway. The 'Inland Road' follows the same route as the 'Inland Railway' and some time tomorrow I expect to cross the Arctic Circle but the Nord Kapp is still a few hundred miles on from there reached by crossing Lappland which straddles the northern parts of Sweden, Norway, Finland and even Russia. The van seems content to chug along on the empty roads - 2000 miles covered over the last fortnight - and provides as ever for all my needs. Out here there is very little between the villages but this peaceful campsite has all mod cons - a good job too as wifi is almost non existent elsewhere.
Pictures that may cause you to reflect are here and my whereabouts can be monitored here. It may well be some time before I can post again but who knows.

CROSSING BORDERS

An early morning ferry to Dover enabled me to swiftly enter Belgium and cross to the intersection of the German, Dutch and Belgian borders for a comfortable night near Aachen. The town's impressive Rathaus and Dom formed part of a lively centre with musicians and a market adding to the relaxed atmosphere.
The huge Hermann monument further east was of a remarkable scale - no wonder it was the sculptor's lifetime work.
In Hildesheim more remarkable civic buildings were best observed from the heights of the St Michael church spire before I continued east with a lengthy delay on the autobahn caused by a very nasty single vehicle accident that had wiped out an entire family.
On a quiet Sunday evening I pulled in to the stehlplatz adjacent to the Autostadt museum which in turn sits alongside the home of Volkswagen at Wolfsburg. This was the factory that after the war was allowed to begin production of the Beetle and is overshadowed by four haunting chimney stacks of the plant's power station. After a thorough exploration of the Autostadt's excellent displays I joined the factory tour where although photos were not permitted we were given a fascinating insight in to a cutting edge car production line. 4000 Golfs a day are produced and we were transfixed by robots and machines that created vehicles before our eyes - it takes just 30 seconds to install a complete pre assembled drive train and magical arms swept in to affix entire dashboards, windscreens, the wheels and even the space saver in the boot.
A further few hours exploring the rest of the Autostadt included a priceless chrome Bugatti Veyron, makes from days of old including a Ford Capri and many insights in to the future of the industry.
After another quiet night in the stehlplatz I am about to visit the Classic VW museum before heading north with the intention of reaching Sweden by the weekend.
Piccies here and locations here - a rather brief post as there is very little wifi in Germany and you can only stand so much of McDonalds!

Chop Chop

The major reason for delaying my departure to Scandinavia by a couple of weeks was to enable me to assist with the delivery of 20 tonnes of materials, tools and equipment to the new bothy project in the Elan Valley.
Given the limited access other than on foot the estate had budgeted for a helicopter lift due to the quantity and bulky nature of items required and the date had duly arrived.
Last week's hot weather had drifted away and we worked in typically upland conditions which at least kept the midges away. Six of us arrived at the bothy site first thing and shortly afterwards the pilot flew across to check out the location before returning with the first of more than 30 loads that had been assembled at the farm a mile or two away on the west shore.

The awesome experience of unclipping the slings as the machine roared only a few metres above our heads was a first for all of us and after initial concerns we soon slipped in to a well practised routine as timber, roofing sheets, tools, sand, scaffolding, generators and guttering arrived. Cement, lime and the new doors and windows were placed out of the elements in the tin shed we had cleared out last November and after a short lunch break whilst the machine also refuelled we were back at work. The use of such advanced technology contrasted sharply with the methods the original inhabitants must have used to both build and live in such an isolated place - the house was probably last occupied in 1953.

It was a great team effort with everyone chipping in and looking out for each other due to the obvious potential for hazards. The powerful down draft was more than capable of sending 8x4 sheets of ply spinning and no one fancied a free ride across the chilly waters if they got caught in the nets.
The pilot was highly skilled even dropping bags of aggregate with precision right in to the building itself  as well as coping with blustery conditions and loads of varying weight, dimensions and fragility. After 6 efficient hours all was done and he set off on the return to Cardiff which would take around half an hour leaving the bothy still and silent once more. Paul and his team of one (!) have a fair task ahead of them and progress will be heavily dictated by the summer weather - I will return in the autumn when we hope to be able to make a start on the internal works - floor, sleeping platform and stove installation to name a few.
Once again the cooperation between the estate and MBA members was heart warming and congratulations are deserved all round. There is positive interest from the local farming and wider community and combined with other bothies in the area there will soon be the potential for a 5-7 day mid Wales circuit of what is to my mind one of the real Welsh landscape gems.
My ferry is booked for an ungodly hour next Friday morning so my next post will originate from either Germany or Denmark en route to Sweden so meanwhile enjoy the photos HERE  (again select slideshow from the 'v' to the right of the 'Add photos' block' and keep an eye on me HERE as I head across northern Europe with the intention of crossing the Arctic Circle and possibly reaching the Nordkapp in the land of the midnight sun.

New Ideas - Old Favourites

The HUBB overland travellers meet was held over a hot and sunny weekend at Donnington but under the flight path for East Midlands airport however I experienced little of either the sun or the planes as I was intent on seeing as much of the timetable as possible. Over the four days I saw over 30 hours of impressively professional and highly entertaining presentations, met old friends and enjoyed displays of a variety of expedition vehicles. Of course much of the emphasis was on motorcycling but even this spanned the full range from cheap Chinese mopeds through classic Nortons and Enfields to modern superbikes and of course sidecar combinations. The lad who had ridden back from Malaysia on an ex new Zealand Postal service moped gave an amusing account of his amazing journey and plans to tour the Americas on it in the future! Pedal power was also included and four wheeled vehicles were present in a remarkable variety of shapes, sizes and budgets. A new Land Rover with demountable living pod would set you back almost £80,000 whilst classic Series 2s with wooden raised roofs were priceless and had seen many adventures. On site, one neighbour had been round the world in his trusty Series 3 whilst another had spent many years criss crossing Africa. On the Sunday we all bade two couples farewell at the start of following their dreams - Mongolia and South America being the intended destinations before I stayed on to assist in the speedy take down of various marquees and exhibitions. A good meal for all volunteers rounded off an excellent weekend which left me with much to consider as to the future.

Whilst I had a rear wheel bearing replaced in Bristol I cycled out to Bath enjoying the hot sunshine and then crossed across to Wales once more for a few days within the margins of OS Sheet 147 which contains immeasurable gems and has provided me with peace and solace for over 30 years. Cors Carron RSPB reserve was my starting point with a couple of hours walking through the wetlands spotting otter footprints en route, after which I spent the night up in the Cambrian Mountains meeting another couple also enjoying the spectacular light at sunset and dawn in a stunning location. A planned ride out along the Claerwen was curtailed by my chain snapping for the third time in a week so I dropped in to Aberystwyth for new bits and bobs and met a friend for lunch by chance who was collecting his lad at the end of his first year at uni.

Nant Yr Arian provided a good testing ground for the new components with the sinuous curves of the Summit Trail providing exhilarating riding - another van was parked up for the night so I decided to stay on as well enabling me to ride the 35km Sydfrin trail the next day. This was another corker taking me over previously unexplored terrain west of Nant y Moch reservoir and passing a series of small but enchanting lakes - one of which later provided a perfect place to spend the night.

Today saw me cycling the hills and valleys east of Devil's Bridge incorporating both Nant Rhys and Nant Syddion bothies which were both in good order. A 74 year old guy exploring the area on an electrically assisted bike seemed pleased to meet another soul as the area has a complicated network of tracks and trails many passing the 40 or so turbines of the Cefn Groes windfarm.

After several days of blue skies and sunshine a change is on the cards in time for our materials lift in to the new Elan Valley bothy project but I hope to be off to the continent within a fortnight - the prospect of the Swedish (male) train drivers wearing dresses being too much to resist! - just Google it.

Piccies here, locations here and for now watch this space....

It 's a Long Way to Lundy

The unexpectedly curtailed Scottish trip left a month or so without a cunning plan but as usual I found plenty to fill in a period of largely dry but unseasonably cold weather.
A trip down to Somerset included exploration of a new length of cycle track that cleverly utilises old railway tunnels under Bath and another disused railway line traversing the Somerset Levels where abandoned peat workings now provide a range of wildlife habitats. Extensive panoramic views from Glastonbury Tor and a small, friendly farm based camp site added to the enjoyment of an area I had not previously visited in detail.
The Fleet Air Arm Museum at Yeovilton required a full day to appreciate the range of aircraft displayed with the 002 Concorde providing a fascinating insight in to the peak of British civil aviation and the history of the Falklands War tinged with emotion. The simulated aircraft carrier experience was well executed and topped off an excellent day.
After a day at the remarkable National Trust property of Tyntesfield which almost uniquely still contains all the treasures and artefacts that are original to the house, and has superb parkland grounds I returned to Brecon to admire a friend's 60 year old Morris Oxford being prepared for wedding car duty.
Over the May Bank Holiday I cycled in the Elan valley and walked across to the new bothy project we had excavated last November to see what effect the long cold winter had had on the remaining ruins. All seems well and it will be exciting to see the project begin in earnest with a helicopter lift of materials in mid June. I cycled in to Nant Rhys as well before exploring the tracts of forest and moor that surround the large Cefn Groes wind farm which was generating steadily in the strong winds.
A weekend in Shropshire included a family catch up in Bishop's Castle, a walk, bike ride and curry with Penny from Sheffield and a day out around local lanes with my brother culminating in a good pub lunch - our first day out together in decades.
Back in Brecon I enjoyed a horse shoe walk up over Pen y Fan after a late fall of snow before heading to Coventry for the result of my knee scan. Basically I have an oblique tear in the posterior horn of the medial meniscus (a torn cartilage in plain English!) which probably ought to receive further investigation and possible repair but I have decided to defer further action until September when I will be starting a 3 month period in the UK for commitments already scheduled. With cholesterol still good at 4.1 (despite a slight relaxation of my strict regime) and BP of 110/68 thankfully all seems well on the other health fronts
Thus reassured I headed south to Bristol for a memorable evening ride through the Bath tunnels with Bill and Dale once more and back via the pubs of the Kennet and Avon canal before heading down to Frome. This was the departure point for a week in Devon and on a sunny but chilly Sunday we headed down to Bridgetown on Exmoor and an excellent site alongside the Exe from where we enjoyed an evening ride across the empty moor and a night sampling the local scrumpy in the comfort of Anne and Sarah's comfy motorhome.
After a good walk up on the moor including Dunkerry Beacon - the highest point - we pitched up at Ilfracombe in preparation for the visit to Lundy.
Tuesday morning saw us checking in on the harbour front dominated rather strikingly by a Damien Hirst statue beneath which the MS Oldenburg bobbed - perhaps a smaller vessel than I had expected! Luggage and supplies were craned aboard and at 10am we departed along the impressive North Devon coast in a stiff Force 5 northerly and sea conditions described as moderate. Unfortunately despite missing breakfast I saw little of the view as the rough crossing got the better of me and it was with some relief that we arrived 2 hours later at the small jetty on Lundy's southern tip.
Soon after walking up to the small village our larger rucksacks were delivered  and we pitched camp on the empty field using the dry stone wall as a windbreak - the sun was shining though and we were soon away up the east coast passing old quarry workings, cottage ruins and one of the properties available for rent : Tibbetts which with its wood panelling and solid fuel appliances was reminiscent of an upper class bothy.
Soay sheep, Sikka deer, seals and bird life were all encountered and the flooded quarry's pond contained rather bizarrely dozens of goldfish and a large carp. From the north lighthouse we enjoyed phenomenal views along much of the south Welsh coastline - from Milford Haven and the Preselli's via Pembrey, Llanelli, Worm's Head, Gower, Swansea, Port Talbot and the cliffs of coastal Glamorgan round to Cardiff; whilst to the south and west lay Hartland Point and the coast south to Land's End.
After a walk back along the spine of the island the Marisco Tavern provided a welcoming bolt hole and we slept well with total peace enveloping the island whilst the generator was at rest from midnight to 6am.
Wednesday saw us walk the rugged west coast with side trips to the old Fog Battery and the granite slab known as the Devil's Slide before falling asleep in the midday sun leaving me foolishly somewhat sunburned.
We dined well in the Tavern in the company of a lass from Sheffield who was camping and also on her first visit - with a fine evening outside we all decided to walk over to the old lighthouse and ascend the spiral steps to the lofty platform for a panoramic view of the island as the skies darkened.

Very strong winds kept me awake most of the night as my tent flapped wildly despite being fully pegged down but the excellent hot showers soon had me refreshed and by 9.30 our bags were ready for collection  leaving us the day to walk round the south side of the island and watch the Oldenburg arrive after another lively crossing. We took a closer look at the other properties available for rent and the remarkable church built by a Reverend Heaven with granite exterior and decorative brick lining. At four o'clock and buoyed by ginger biscuits we boarded the ship once more and set off with the sea described as rough to moderate. For 2 hours we rose and fell on endless waves that occasionally washed across the decks - Pete had chosen a good spot though and we remained dry although at one point the crew asked everyone to move indoors during a particularly rough patch. Thanks to the biscuits (I think) I was able to enjoy the excitement of the crossing and the spectacular coastline and soon after arrival we had collected our bags, picked up pizzas at Tesco's and were cosily installed on a cool and windy evening.
On the Friday we headed across to Lynton and enjoyed a walk down to the village and back along the coast via the Valley of Rocks and the Lee Abbey grounds before a night in front of the telly with hook up keeping the chill at bay. It is almost 30 years since I last walked in this area as I undertook the Minehead to Bude section of the SWCPP in 1984 and it still retains its beauty and grandeur with plunging valleys, lush woodlands, rocky headlands and hidden coves.
On Saturday we parked up near Watersmeet to enjoy a mini expedition that took us along the coast path over Countisbury Hill, down in to the Doone Valley and then high on to Exmoor for a night under the stars part way along the Two Moors Way. Again it is many years since I slept in a bivvy bag and in such excellent conditions it was a real privilege to be out in such a magical place. A few hours more on Sunday morning returned us to the van which in turn returned us to Frome after what had been a full, varied and rewarding week.
This weekend I am in Leicestershire for the HU Overland Travellers UK meet after which I will get the van bearings done and new tyres fitted in readiness for a trip to Sweden and Norway that is planned to start once the bothy materials lift has been completed in mid June. I plan to be away until late August and hope to return to more regular blog postings once on the road again.
Quite a few pics appear here due to the long interval since my last musings - Picasa seems to have morphed in to Google + which is a little irritating but persevere by clicking the 'v' to the right of 'Add photo's'  and you will be able to run a slideshow which I hope you will enjoy and my sporadic locations will appear here.

A Highland Fling

Under clear blue skies and with snow lying at higher altitudes a circuit of the Brecon Beacons took in much of the route of last year's Beast event with the usual fast descent of the Gap Road  providing an exhilarating finish and justifying a couple of pints in the Star at Talybont on Usk.
A quick overnight in Coventry to load up the van with maps and gear for Scotland was followed by a long weekend in Sheffield the highlight of which was a cycle ride that included Rotherham sewage works. Sunday saw us do a long ride from Bolsover through Clumber Park and Sherwood Forest thanks to Barry's encyclopaedic knowledge of local tracks and trails.
After crossing the snowy Pennines I wild camped at the back of Shap Fell (where a herd of at least 50 deer seemed unperturbed by my presence) before heading in to the Scottish borders to a relatively newly refurbished bothy - Greensykes. An old photo showed the original exterior and the efforts of the various work parties were recorded in the bothy file.

Later that day I joined a couple I had met in Morocco at their farmhouse near Dumfries where we reminisced, planned future trips and I admired the huge works undertaken to rebuild the house and construct an excellent workshop - I look forward to a return visit as there are other bothies in the area and the huge tracts of forest lend themselves to extensive mountain biking.
A final day of cold weather saw me at Culzean Castle on a club site before heading through Glasgow and across to Lochgilphead. Here other friends had an issue with their septic tank ( is there a theme here?) which was similar to mine back at the farm. However the damaged motor was beyond repair so unfortunately little could be achieved and I was soon on my way through Oban to Kentallen south of Glencoe where a group of us occupied a spacious and comfortable house overlooking Loch Linnhe. 
Sunday saw a walk through Glen Duror to another bothy as very windy conditions confined us to the lower slopes - a confused lamb tried to adopt us and the bothy provided a cosy lunch stop.
Monday started with high drama as I seemed to have a flat battery and managed to leave the handbrake off whilst looking for my jump pack leads. As the house was on a steep drive the van careered off at increasing speed shot across the road, mounted the kerb and crashed through numerous saplings and thick brambles before coming to a halt. Somewhat alarmed (massive understatement) I inspected the scene and was relieved to find little apparent damage. By pure good fortune it had missed the substation, road sign, electric pole and there had been no cars or people nearby. After a jump start from Nick and generous woodland management skills from the others I managed to drive out on to the footpath and return to the road where apart from a dented side door all seemed well.
The others set off for a nearby Munroe whilst I decided to attempt to sort out the damaged door which had jumped off its runner. I then drove in to Fort William where a local garage were kind enough to have a good look underneath using their ramp : all appeared well - a tribute to the strength of this particular vehicle.
Foul weather on Tuesday kept us indoors all day with a retreat to the pub as the worst of the storms abated although Wednesday's ascent of a Corbett above Glen Duror was one for the true stalwarts with all of us getting a real soaking in challenging conditions.
On the Thursday 3 of us took bikes on the small ferry across to Lismore from Port Appin to spend the day exploring this ten mile long gem, home to around 180 people and a cosy cafe and visitor centre housing a small but informative museum. The old lime quarries and kilns at Sailean evoked memories of a once important local industry and a ruined castle hinted at a more turbulent past whilst providing a good spot for lunch.
At the southern tip opposite Mull an abandoned farmhouse would make a challenging restoration in a superb location and after a quick visit to look across to the lighthouse we headed north to catch our return ferry and enjoy a pint at the Pier House.
Back at Kentallen we all decided to eat out and enjoyed an excellent meal at the Holly Tree - the late arrival of a large Japanese tour group provided amusement as the staff rose above their obvious and justifiable annoyance as the group ordered food well after serving time.
The best day of the week was enjoyed in the Mamores with a split in to two groups as various tops were ticked off - we enjoyed a scramble along a snowy ridge with excellent views across to Ben Nevis before descending steeply to Kinlochleven.
Our return south was improved by tea and cake in Penrith at a friends and extended by a major closure of the M6 due to a coach fire but I eventually arrived in Coventry once more after a busy few weeks.
My MRI scan was conducted efficiently on a quiet Sunday and much time was spent trying to realign the van door as I had sourced a new lower roller - limited progress was made and I will try again in South Wales next week.
I hope to visit Lundy in May but otherwise my plans for this summer have yet to be finalised but a number of loose ends have been tied up which should free me up for 8-10 weeks away.

Apologies for the long interval since the last post but please enjoy some photos by clicking here 

Spring ????

After a very useful weekend in Coventry removing every last item of clothing, equipment, tools and utensils from the van which enabled me to remove the dust and grime of Morocco, Australia and even New Zealand I replaced most things and ensured I had all the requirements for the forthcoming summer.
Unfortunately the weather had overlooked the official start of spring and turned very much colder persuading me to hunker down at Llangurig for a long weekend with the comforts of a heater, the TV and a good phone/internet signal. Five inches of snow fell on the Friday night with drifting in the strong easterly winds reaching several metres and causing devastation on local farms in the middle of lambing. A 5 mile walk in to one of our bothies took 3 hours each way in arctic conditions with much of the route completely obscured - I was relieved that I had not been tempted to wild pitch at an old favourite spot as the road out had a drift more than 12 feet deep stretching several hundred metres and I would have been stranded.
Nant Rhys was in good order with a revision of the sleeping arrangements to meet fire regulations undertaken recently by the maintenance organisers. 
A return to Brecon was followed by a few days in the Upper Swansea valley visiting old friends and one day cycling the old railway lines down through Swansea and round to the Mumbles where it felt almost spring like. A favourite circular walk via the spectacular Fan Hir ridge offered superb views and a quick chat with a German girl making her way in to the hills rather late in the day on a mountain bike with wellies and rubber gloves to fend off the cold!
Another ride from Newport towards Abergavenny along the Brecon and Monmouth canal was enjoyed in sunny but chilly conditions - warm soup and other treats at Goytre Wharf fuelled our return which was slightly marred by a plunge in to the canal for one of our number !!
I am now at Talybont with another ride planned for Tuesday up in to the hills before later this week I head indirectly to Scotland - a trip which will be forcibly shortened as I have a scan for my knee unexpectedly early - 3 weeks time in fact. Plans beyond that will depend on the outcome of the scan but I still hope to get over to Scandinavia and plans for another winter in southern Europe and a return to Morocco are well advanced.

A few icy picks (geddit) are available here :  click