Tip Top Turkiye

Leaving Georgia after photographing an old railway carriage repurposed as a bridge we headed south on twenty miles of badly eroded road with even the trucks taking it slowly as we crossed at the Kartsakhi border point. We realised we could pass most of the trucks that were queuing and before long were stamped out of Georgia and in to Turkey from where the road improved instantly. South of Cildir we stopped by the lake for lunch and decided it was too early to stop for the night so after a good run in to Kars we parked up near a couple of overlander trucks alongside the cheese museum. The town is famous for a Gruyere type cheese made with Swiss knowledge, staff and equipment with the huge round wheels weighing 20kg.

We found a Vodafone shop that put 25Gb of data on for a few pounds and had a look round the shops and markets before returning to base. The following morning the cheese museum proved to be excellent and after a thorough look round we bought a kilogram of their hard cheese and set off for a visit to Ani, the abandoned former capital of Armenia. However torrential rain forecast to last all day persuaded us to put this on the next time list and we decided to drive south where the weather was forecast to improve. Stunning roads through snow capped mountains and past remote and simple villages and the small town of Agri brought us to a pass from where the vast expanse of Lake Van (1500 square miles) lay beneath us. We dropped down and eventually found the way off the dual carriageway on to a track that led us to the shore where we pitched up in glorious isolation. The poor weather saw itself out in a dramatic thunderstorm in the Iran/Turkey border mountains which fortunately stayed well away and we woke the following morning to cloudless skies so decided a day in the sun was justified. I tried out the awning to give us extra shade and we walked along the shore of this lake that has no outflow and therefore has a high level of soda which gives the water an almost soapy feel.

Two friendly soldiers walked by and asked for a selfie but otherwise we saw no one and were treated to a cracking sunset before a quiet night. Heading west, as will be the plan for several weeks, we turned off up to a small volcanic crater lake, Aygir Golu, on the slopes of Sulphan, an inactive volcano, before getting water in Tatvan with some local kids as fascinated as ever by our set up. A road climbed north to a vantage point from where we could look out over Lake Van and down in to one of the world's largest volcanic craters, the remarkable Nemrut Golu with snow lying on the shaded slopes of the crater rim. A road snaked down to the crater lake but just before the final section a friendly guy waved us over offering tea. We stopped and greeted Faisal and his friend who it transpired live up here for 6 months of the year in a simple shack with water from the lake and a wood fired hearth to boil up a brew. He said it was fine to stay there for the night so we walked down to the surprisingly busy road end and then returned to talk with an Austrian couple who also decided to stay. They were travelling with another couple all rather bundled up in leathers on a pair of KTMs who headed back out for a hotel in town leaving us to enjoy a quiet night keeping an ear out for the bears that still live in the area. As the Austrians were heading to Georgia I gave them my Silknet SIM and the useful insurance leaflet.

After walking out to the main lake once more we left Faisal a few pounds as a thank you - he hadn't even wanted to charge us for the tea, before climbing out of this remarkable place and refiling with water plus a tank of BP Ultimate for the van at 93p/litre as only basic diesel had been available in Georgia and Armenia.

En route to Diyarbakir via Silvan we turned off on a hot Sunday afternoon to the remarkable Malabadi bridge where families were enjoying picnics and finding shade where they could. 

My Garmin Sat Nav had been freezing up increasingly frequently in Georgia and Armenia so I had dug out my old Aguri device which covered Turkey but not G and A but bang on the outskirts of busy Kayapinar it too gave up the ghost leaving us to revert to Google maps, unfamiliar in sat nav mode to both of us, and slow to react in the narrow streets as we entered Diyarbakir. However we reached the parking lot outside the city walls at the southern gate, Mardin Kapi, and pulled in tight under the only tree as the temperature was in the mid thirties. The town walls are almost intact and amount to around five miles with numerous towers, four main gates and a castle that contains a mosque, museum and extensive public gardens. Elsewhere within the walls a colourful and vibrant town is jammed in, bisected by two main thoroughfares and comprising of a fascinating network of narrow streets, markets stalls, small workshops, cafes, restaurants and some tightly packed in housing. Everyone was friendly and welcoming with no persistent hassling from the vendors, inquisitive, excited but polite children and shy women who wanted to say hello. Soberingly a few, probably homeless, migrant women were sat begging on the pavements with small children who clearly faced a very difficult future and reminded us of our great good fortune. This is very much a Kurdish settled part of Turkey and the people dream one day of an independent homeland to call their own after persecution by the likes of such characters as Saddam Hussein and more recently Assad of Syria. Yet again as I saw in Armenia and Georgia conflict most deeply affects some of the most vulnerable in society.

After a good walk round we dropped in to a smart restaurant for a delicious meal on their cool terrace before returning to the van on a sweltering evening so left all the windows and roof vents open and reduced the bedding to just a covering sheet. Monday saw us walking more of the walls and stopping for home made ice cold lemonade in a lovely cool courtyard. After visiting the very excellent museum within the fort complex and grabbing a kebab in a cool fast food joint we dropped back to the van where I made a good impression on the group of boys kicking a partially deflated football around our parking area as I had the right adapter and a pump to hand.

Adjacent to the van was a shady park where the small cafes had rugs laid out with comfy cushions to sit on so we ordered the small glasses of black tea and planned our onward journey. Later we returned to town, looked around the grand mosque and walked the last section of walls where a woman asked us to stop for tea at her simple set up. 

Again she wouldn't take anything and we were as humbled as ever by people's friendliness and generosity. In town we saw a courtyard restaurant serving a variety of Turkish dishes and were soon settled on comfy benches as the young waiters tried out their best English. As the night before salads, spicy dishes, pickles and onions arrived with water and soon after our delicious chicken and lamb kebabs. Walking back we met a talented calligrapher who produced a souvenir and asked for a selfie, as had the restaurant owner, as English tourists are a rare sight this far east. We looked in again at the remarkable caravanserai that now contains stalls and cafes and absorbed the colourful street atmosphere as we headed home Back at the van I remembered the Eber had a ventilation setting that just moves air around which made a difference as we took cool showers and settled down after walking almost ten miles.

Today we have moved on west again and up in to the slightly cooler mountains and are parked up for a service stop with access to a washing machine at the Nemrut Dagi hotel and restaurant where we will be dining outside this evening. They are building an ambitious 24 room hotel so the yard is a bit of a construction site but Omar and his family are very friendly and welcoming. We got water in Diyarbakir and exchanged a gas bottle locally so are good to go for another week.

Extras, extras...

Goodbye Georgia.....

My last night in Armenia was alongside a small fish farm on a very sunny afternoon but after sunset a dramatic thunderstorm developed with remarkable lightning and claps of thunder that literally shook the van. I was grateful for the shelter of the van and a few trees but gradually things abated and the following morning I was away as the sun appeared once more for the border crossing at Guguti which was speedy and trouble free on a quiet morning. I took out two weeks additional insurance for Georgia for about £15 and stopped on a warm morning to look round the Dmanisi monastery complex just along the valley. In the nearby town of the same name I stopped to see if I could get my Silknet SIM reactivated and topped up but the only phone shop was closed so I carried on to Bolnisi where a small shack did the necessary and I stopped for a lunch of grilled pork and chips.

The enthusiastic driving of Tbilisi required attention and concentration but I was soon pulling up behind the magnificent cathedral in a parking area popular with overlanders. These ranged from a few large MAN 4x4 trucks to a Subaru saloon with a tarpaulin stretched over the boot lid bearing Californian plates. The other trucks were either Dutch or German with most people waiting for visas from the various embassies in the city for onward travel through Russia to the Stans.

I walked down to get an overview of the city and spotted a cyclist I had seen a couple times earlier in the day, Sophia was from Bilbao and had set off last July with the intention of reaching Japan in two year's time, she had endured last night's storm in a tent - impressive...

I crossed the river and watched as the trip boats struggled upstream against the waters swollen by the heavy rain which added to the meltwater from the Caucasus ranges to the north and then enjoyed walking round the old town and checked out the small launderette before returning past the Presidential Palace that looks out over the city. I chatted to some of the various other travellers before settling down for a quiet night.

Next morning I stuffed my laundry in to a rucksack and returned to the launderette enjoying coffee and cake in a rather lovely cafe before taking the clean and dry laundry back to the van and spending the afternoon doing some onward planning.

I spent Tuesday on a rather frustrating and unproductive search for a place to fill my gas cylinders which included getting jammed up in chaotically gridlocked traffic around a major hospital. I stopped at a large Carrefour, the first recognisable supermarket chain in months, and was in awe of the range of produce sold and then sat at a large church looking across to the airport and tracked Mandy's progress via Milan and across the Black Sea. Heading out to the airport on the dual carriageway an old beemer with no lights screamed past me and then suddenly his front bumper was skittering across both lanes requiring evasive action. He screeched to a halt in the fast lane and began reversing at speed to retrieve his loss but fortunately I was past him and soon turning off to the modest sized airport. Parking at 5 GEL was reasonable enough and apparently overnighting is allowed but as the Cathedral park up was so near and convenient for the city that's where we were headed. Mandy emerged through the arrivals door and as always I was touched by the joyful reunions awaiting the incoming passengers.

With a three hour time difference to absorb we parked up and went to the small cafe near the Cathedral entrance for a beer before retiring. The following morning we walked down to Rike Park, obtained the metro travel card and then took the cable car up to the Mother Of Georgia statue before in hot sun walking back down to town and enjoying a light lunch in a decent deli and then exploring the old town once more before returning to the park up.

Next morning we walked down to the centre again, just missed the Clock Tower striking so just had to have coffee and cake to while away another hour. It amuses me how many tourists gather for such a simple sight (we of course being guilty as charged) and then walked past the statue of St George slaying a dragon before reaching the 120 year old funicular that required another travel card which could also be loaded for the rides up at Mtatsminda Amusement Park.

Here we first tried the huge Ferris wheel for a remarkable view over the city and then dared a ride on the roller coaster, a first for both of us. The sled gradually ascended a steep incline and then plunged in to a loop the loop and finished with a corkscrew section that left us laughing our heads off. The log plume was equally exhilarating and we finished off with the cable car back to the valley floor and walked down the main Rustaveli street passing the Art Museum and Parliamentary buildings where the police were closing roads in anticipation of a political protest. Back at the van we showered and changed before a meal at the bar where some lovely staff served us an excellent meal at very reasonable prices.

Our need for gas meant a quick run back to Gori, stopping en route at the Svetitskhoveli walled monastery in Mtskheta, one of Georgia's most celebrated religious sites that is thought to contain Christ's robe under a large stone altar. A return visit to the impressive cave village of Uplistsikhe was well worthwhile and at the central parking in Gori we nipped across to get 3 cylinders filled before walking in to town for a good meal at the Black Stars restaurant where a likeable Ukrainian toddler wanted to show me his plastic military toy set which of course was very thought provoking.

The following morning as hoped the last gas cylinder had expired so we called at our guy again with all four refills coming to under a tenner. In yet another sign of Georgian decency and honesty he was reluctant to take a tip and we dropped the cylinders back at the van before heading in to town as I needed a haircut. Mandy had a quick look round the outside of the Stalin Museum meanwhile and then we got some fruit and veg before heading off. 

I had planned for us to stay out in the wilds so we headed towards Borjomi and then turned up towards Bakuriani which to our surprise turned out to be a vast partially finished but mostly unoccupied ski resort that held no appeal. We tried other options in the immediate area to no avail so returned to Borjomi and found a peaceful spot in a loop of old road beneath the ruins of Cixe castle. An exciting suspension bridge took us over to beautiful meadows in a natural basin with cows grazing around the ruins of a small church. 

Next morning the herdsman stopped to say hello and have a nosey at the van before we moved on stopping first at the extensive fort complex of Rabati in Akhaltsikhe. As I exited a confusing roundabout layout I spotted police lights in my wing mirror, a common enough sight as they always drive round with them illuminated, but a command from the tannoy is an indication to stop. The guy was friendly enough, asked for my passport and driving licence and then my insurance, all of which his colleague checked against a laptop database and declared in order. He then asked me to open a sealed plastic packet containing a sterile tube for his breathalyser, another test passed without issue after which we were on our way.

The Rabati fort was superb with extensive walls, turrets and towers, beautiful gardens, fountains and other features and a majestic bronze domed mosque that was a sign that the town had seen many nationalities and religions live peacefully side by side for generations. I had taken the the opportunity with the police officer to confirm that our intended border crossing is open - the friends in Kazakhstan have a 2000 km detour thanks to a closed border point with Uzbekistan.

We stopped at Khertvisi castle which dominates the confluence of two rivers and contains a small but very moving chapel and bought fresh asparagus from the tiny stall near the entrance. We then carried on up the valley to find a quiet picnic area outside Akhalkalaki and settled in on a cool evening enlivened by a sighting of a yellow coloured fox. The following morning dawned bright and sunny so we climbed nearby Tavshanka hill at just 6,000' for views across to the mountains lying along the Turkish and Armenia borders. Out at Ninotsminda we failed to find the extensive ruined monastery, it turns out there are two Ninotsmindas so it actually lay three hours away on the east side of Tbilisi, a fortunately rare error in my research! In a back street we were amused to see an old lorry back, now on Georgian plates, still signwritten for Lewis's Pies way back in Swansea!!

We stopped at the excellent water point in the town once more, noticing a new railway line and freight marshalling facility being constructed on the line in from Turkey, and then again at Khertvisi for more asparagus before following the Kura gorge to the remarkable Vardzia Cave Village. A short climb up to a gravel parking area and view point looked like the perfect place to park up and we talked with the young Dutch couple already there who are heading to Armenia via Tbilisi. As we are leaving the Caucasus they were very grateful for my old Rough Guide, the more recent tourist information leaflets and my Viva SIM.

We walked down to the ticket office for Vardzia and spent three hours engrossed in the amazing labyrinth of cave homes, store rooms, wine cellars, temples and meeting rooms that were part of the 600 or so hewn out spaces. In the beautiful church that had been created we were able to take a tunnel through to a spring deep inside mountain and then another that led to a series of lofty balconies. Other steps, tunnels and ledges led us to the far end of the settlement a couple of layers below the private quarters of a handful of monks who still live in the complex and toll the bells daily. Back at the church we were able to enter the main nave with its remarkable 12th century frescoes before finally leaving by a series of steep staircases and narrow tunnels that had once been a secret escape route. It was a quite incredible place and later from our lofty perch across the valley we watched as the whole cliff face was illuminated after sunset.

After a very quiet night we decided to get the bikes off for a ride further up the valley although we delayed our departure by an hour or two to let a shower pass. I had a flat rear but fortunately the sealant had held around the rim so a quick blast from the compressor and all was well although my saddle clamp is not right so needs regular readjusting. However we enjoyed the ride up to the remote village of Mirashkhani taking shelter in a small chapel during a heavier shower and spotting a French 4x4 truck parked up down by the river. The Dutch couple had travelled with an English family in a similar truck for a while and said it was interesting to see how often they had to compromise on getting to places due to their height, weight and width and even with the low fuel prices over here 7mpg must hurt.

We took the side road up to the delightful nunnery at Upper Vardzia and then sped along to the Vardzia Panorama restaurant that was fortunately very warm as we arrived rather wet. However beer, wine and an excellent meal for £25 saw us reinvigorated for the last short sharp climb back to the van where as always we appreciated the comforts of the Eber and a hot shower.

Tomorrow we will head over to Turkey via Akhalkalaki stopping en route to soap wash the bikes and van and jet wash the latter as the last few weeks have left it with a patina of credibility but it's always good to present well at borders. We'll fill up with fuel at about 62p a litre which should get rid of the last Georgian lari and fortunately I still have a month left on my Turkish vehicle insurance so that will be one less administrative hurdle. The Dutch couple had taken four hours to get in to Georgia, much of that due to the paperwork for their cat...

I hope my Turkish Vodafone SIM can be reactivated but as we will be in the country for a month getting a new one wouldn't matter and from Greece onwards I'll be using the O2 European roaming allowances.

My seven weeks in Georgia and Armenia have exceeded expectations and provided a wealth of memories, so many remarkable sights and experiences and such heart warming interactions with locals, fellow travellers and people from countries as far flung as Belarus, Iran, China, the USA and India as well as from across Europe.

The ongoing conflicts around the world seem at odds with the way normal people engage and interact and following my friends travels through Russia and Kazakhstan has inspired me to return this way one day, and then today we meet a Swiss couple just returning from time in Iran....

Watch this space and

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