WALES AND THE SOUTH WEST

 After a quick sort out of maps and kit we headed away to Newtown where Grooms Garage undertook the two yearly Eber service which is never cheap as the glow plug alone is almost a hundred squids but with a good clean out and all post Moroccan dust removed this indispensable utility should be fit for the next couple of years.

We then stayed a night at Llangurrig before dropping down to the Elan Valley and walking in to Lluest Cwm Bach bothy to take measurements for Martin the MO to replace a door catch and fit a new internal wall to the loo as some genius had decided to burn the original. Similarly gifted individuals had also stayed the weekend and left their rubbish everywhere including a fresh dump right by the front door and a Tesco Club Card. There would be little likelihood of Tesco divulging any information, let alone the local constabulary taking an interest so yet again we cleaned up as best we could and carted several bags out to the van. Down at the Elan Valley Trust office the ever helpful Annette said we could use their skip and arranged for a quad and trailer to be available in a week or two to carry in materials across the bog of doom.

After a quick shower and change in the van we drove on down to Sennybridge where we had a good catch up with Crad and Dawn on a windswept and rainy night. Next day in Brecon I checked that the bodyshop was still expecting the van in the following week for a couple of patches of rust to be dealt with and we then arrived at Lower Chapel which would be our base for ten days.

I set about replacing the discs and pads all round but was initially stymied by a recalcitrant caliper mouning bolt that was in danger of rounding off - however some penetrating oil and a cup of tea followed by a higher quality socket eventually had the thing moving and by the end of the day all was well. The rear pads were almost through but the discs seemed fine. Up front there was plenty of life left on the pads so I suspect they were two different brands. Anyway as since the long descents in the Atlas Mountains I have had a judder on braking I replaced everything all round as planned so should be good for another 30k miles on the pads and 60k on the discs.

Unfortunately my left knee which had been recovering well from a graze sustained in Dumfries objected to being knelt on for many hours and began to get inflamed to the extent that by Friday Jan ran me down to the MIU at Brecon where I was seen almost immediately and prescribed 7 days of Flucloxacillin after the rather unsightly wound was cleansed and dressed. This freed the four of us up to go to Hay on Wye via the Railway Garden Centre to view the recently restored castle and enjoy the excellent cafe.

Dale arrived on Friday night as planned and we were all well fed as always by Jan and enjoyed their cosy sitting room and log burner.

Despite my knee and now swollen leg the four of us headed across the fields and forests to Erwood Craft Centre in the Wye Valley on a sunny day before Mandy and Jan headed back to do the animals and Dale and I added a longer loop out to the Roundabout and back via Glasbury and Boughrood. Pizzas that evening were well earned but we had a relatively early night as Jan and Ian were off to York from Newport the  following morning.

Having dropped them off I returned to Brecon and met with Dale for a ride along the canal to Talybont and then the long climb up to Torpantau. On the fast wet descent along a forestry track I came a cropper, avoided landing on the dodgy knee by landing on my face and thus added a bloodied nose to my list of woes. Later on the canal I took another tumble this time landing on the knee and seeing some very colourful stars - is it time to refit stabilisers?

So on the Monday I dropped the van down to Jeff Allen in Brecon and saw a new dentist who declared that I will need two extractions shortly before we met friends from Ystradgynlais for tapas at the small but excellent No37 The Watton. Later that day I was still unhappy with the knee so went back to the MIU who took a look and agreed that an Xray to exclude the possibility of a foreign body might be a good idea. Thus on Tuesday morning this was done and fortunately nothing untoward was found : the fast and efficient service I received was in stark contrast to the headlines we read about the state of the NHS and grateful for their input I took the staff some treats for break time. The van was also ready and I was pleased with the bumper scuff and rust removal for a very reasonable £160.

That evening 6 of us were back at No37 for yet another good catch up and excellent food and on Wednesday I collected Jan and Ian from Abergavenny after their trip up north. Mandy had done all the daily farm chores and really enjoyed herself and we all dropped down to see Arthur in the village whose house had been flooded yet again whilst he was on a winter cruise.

 

 Next day we drove over the Beacons to Pant above Merthyr where we caught the Brecon Mountain Railway steam train up to Pontsticill reservoir - it was something I'd never done and provided good views to the tops of Pen Y Fan and Corn Ddu as well as a chance to view their engineering shed and a delightful model railway. On our drive back via Talybont we met a young Afghan couple on a trip from Southampton who were planning to tackle the horseshoe walk above Neuadd reservoirs in totally unsuitable footwear and clothing so I hope they took on board my friendly advice. We moved on to stay on the Promenade in Brecon and went to see A Haunting In Venice, not a particularly must see film but it was lovely to hark back to our visit there earlier this year.

We called at Martin's house at the Mumbles to hand over the bothy details and reflected that our trip round to Lynton would be 150 miles by road as opposed to the 20 odd miles by water. We admired his workshops where he has been designing and manufacturing new roof components for the ongoing Cae Amos bothy roof project before heading east to Frome to deliver a food parcel to Pete who had recently undergone hand surgery. It was then a short run to Priddy where we stayed at Eastwater Farm with the intention of meeting friends from Portishead but they rang first thing to declare a Covid issue so we walked down to Wookey, up through Ebbor Gorge and over Deerleap to Westbury sub Mendip before climbing back over to Priddy where Pete had arrived after deciding his surgery didn't prevent him driving. Dale and his wife joined us for an evening in the Hunters Inn which has hardly changed in the 40 years I have been calling in. Roger the landlord looks frailer but the hearty food was as good value as ever. On Sunday Pete took us down to Burrington for a good walk on a sunny day over Rowberrow with  great views across to Wales, and back via Tynings. With a service stop required we dropped down on to the Levels and stayed at Pine Tree Farm giving us the opportunity for a ride out across the lanes eventually reaching Glastonbury for a walk round. At the farm a newly arrived calf was very endearing.

Wednesday saw us heading over to Bishop's Lydeard where we were booked on the West Somerset Railway Cheese and Cider Special that rolled up to Minehead passing Blue Anchor as we enjoyed several decent cheeses, salad and rolls with a bottle of cider, followed after a couple of hours in Minehead by a cream tea on the return journey : yet another brilliant occasion made all the more memorable by friendly volunteer staff who were enjoying their work.

 At Watchett we parked near the station and took a walk round town on a mild evening before taking a pint in the Pebble Inn. Unfortunately we had just mised the chippie but were tempted by the aromas from the Spice Merchant where we enjoyed one of the best Indian meals of recent times before a quiet night in the van. After walking round the town once more and visiting the Grayson Perry exhibition at the East Quay arts complex we drove on to Dunster where we were supposed to meet Greg and Alex at the Luttrell Arms for lunch. Unfortunately they too had tested for Covid so just the two of us enjoyed lunch in the comfortable surroundings before finding a few previously unknown corners of the pretty village. 

Round at Lynton we elected to stay in the van and socialise at a distance with Greg and Alex who had decided to cancel their trip - using their lovely annexe would have involved closer contact and more work for Alex and the good weather enabled us to enjoy sitting outside and catching up. I also quickly jacked up the NSF wheel as in a rare rookie error I had incorrectly routed the brake wear indicator wire  and it had chafed triggering a warning light. Mandy also assisted me in renewing the brake fluid which completed all the servicing of the van prior to the next trip and MOT.

On the Saturday we walked down to Lynmouth to catch the Exmoor Coaster open topped bus for a memorably fun roller coast ride up Countisbury Hill, across the tops and down the mighty Porlock Hill - alarming for us despite the excellent driving. From Minehead we enjoyed a few hours walk along the Coast Path back to Porlock and caught the bus back, only slightly disappointed that it was on an ordinary one as the other had developed a fault. That evening we walked down to the local Indian takeaway who will fill your own prepurchased metal tiffin pans to cut down on plastic waste.

Moving on further down the coast after a morning laundry session we enjoyed an afternoon in the sun on a small site that also produces its own cider before arriving in Ilfracombe on Monday morning. We confirmed our booking for Tuesday at the Lundy Ticket Office, took a look round the town and enjoyed a crab sandwich at the sailing club overlooking the harbour.

Up at Mullacott Farm we packed our bags for the Lundy trip and next morning joined another group in a pre booked taxi down to the harbour, the remarkable coincidence of us all sharing the same surname caused the taxi controller some confusion but we all got there and our bags were soon craned aboard. On time at 10.00 we set sail for the two hour crossing, initially hugging the spectacular coast and then heading straight for the distant island. The 70 year old MV Oldenberg provided deck seating and a covered bar and galley below so I was tempted by a bacon sandwich as the calm sea was not causing me any issues. We arrived at the quay to be greeted by island staff who busied themselves with off loading luggage and cargo as we watched the numerous seals and pups sprawled on the beaches. A steep walk up to the village gave Mandy a chance to see the other properties available and at the shop we were told ours was all ready to occupy so we walked over to the 800 year old castle where the quaint Castle Keep South cottage was both warm and welcoming. Back at the as expected slightly pricy shop we bought the food required for four nights and by the time we had returned our bags had arrived. The accommodation was within the walls of the keep so only had one outward facing window across to Hartland Point with the others facing the two other cottages that formed 3 sides of the keep.

 

We set off on a walk up the east coast of the island as far as Tibbetts and then crossed to the more rugged west coast for a return via the Old Lighthouse. Built in 1820 it was abandoned after only 70 years as it was frequently shrouded in cloud and replaced by two lower ones at the northern and southern ends of the island. However it is still possible to climb the many steps to the top and enjoy 360 degree views from two deckchairs on the internal platform. The cottage was warm and comfortable so we stayed in reading up on the history of the island and its preservation before sleeping soundly.

Tuesday saw us following the south and then west coast up to the old Battery House where 13 people across two families had lived in a pair of semi detached cottages with the responsibilty of firing blanks from two old canon when the fog was down. Returning home we met a large Highland cow, saw deer and Soay sheep and passed a few of the hardy Lundy ponies before a well earned drink in the Marisco Tavern and another peaceful evening. 

 

Wednesday was forecast to be sunny all day so we walked to the northernmost tip, dropped below the lighthouse down some very dilapidated steps to the old landing point and enjoyed seal watching in splendid isolation. Earlier we had talked to the guys from Devon and Cornwall Fire and Rescue who had been on our sailing and were spending two days checking the island's fire security, training staff members and refeshing themselves on cliff rescue and other scenarios. A return to the lighthouse platform gave us a half decent sunset before we returned after dark as a storm rolled in.

Thursday was a bit wet initially so we walked down to the landing stage to watch more seals, climb up to the south lighthouse and then attend a talk on the island's birdlife by the resident ornithologist. Total eradication of the rat population a decade ago has led to a huge increase in survival rates for several species and there is a regular programme of ringing and data recording to monitor further progress. We enjoyed an excellent meal in the Marisco Tavern that evening at a very reasonable price and met our fellow taxi riders who were all staying in the large Millcombe House that had been the family home of the island's last private owner. They were all on a trip organised by Naturetrek who run natural history tours around the world.

On the Friday we visited the small museum, read all the info in the church and had a final visit to the lighthouse platform before packing for the Saturday departure.

Our last day saw us  leaving our luggage for collection, stripping the beds and tidying round before following a different lower path up the east coast passing the old granite quarries and descending to sea level for more seal watching. We had met members of the Friends of Lundy Volunteer Conservation group who had spent a varied week improving footpaths, clearing out the pond below Millcombe and repairing fences. They were from around the UK and sharing the island's bunkhouse accommodation with self catering but were also leaving that day so having watched the Oldenberg arrive at midday we all assembled on the quay for departure. Another steady crossing saw us back in Ilfracombe at 6 and we were soon back at Mullacott grateful for the heater as it had turned chilly.

A laundry stop in Ilfracombe preceeded our arrival in Okehampton at friends who moved there last year and live in a large sunny cottage surrounded by extensive gardens and acres of mixed woodland which we explored on a walk. Sue fed us well as always and on the Monday we all cycled down to the town to pick up the Granite Way which forms part of the Devon Coast to Coast we had ridden a few years back. It was fresh but dry as we rode down to Lydford with its gorge, church, castle and more importantly cosy pub where we enjoyed lunch : local venison for me. On our return we called at the excellent Pump and Pedal, a combined bike shop and cafe for very good hot chocolates before the hills home where again Sue fed us well and we played some entertaining table tennis.

After passing Dartmoor Prison and taking a rest up on the moor as we were both starting a cold we visited John at Crediton but kept our distance as we caught up on hedgehog and duck news.

Heading north at last we enjoyed the Fleet Air Arm Museum at RNAS Yeovilton on a very wet day where fortunately the numerous exhibits are under cover. The display of well known fixed and rotary winged aircraft from across history was very impressive and we enjoyed a talk about the development of Concorde beneath the wings of the 2nd working prototype which we could also explore. The mocked up flight deck and command centre of the aircraft carrier HMS Ark Royal was very well done and we left at the close after a successful day.

Arriving back at Pine Tree Farm Barbara was only able to have us for the one night so we serviced the bathroom and topped up the battery before moving on to Priddy the following day after a visit to Wells for a guided tour of the cathedral including the stunning Chapter Room.

Eastwater Farm was very peaceful but we were both feeling a bit rough so just took a short walk down the Velvet Bottom valley above Cheddar Gorge and then had lunch in the van before meeting up with friends in Portishead. The Aqua restaurant provided yet another excellent meal that evening and we met Barney the new (ish) labrador as well as checking out their van conversion.

The final leg of our journey was back to Sheffield via Dethick near Matlock to see the friends I had last met in Germany in late July. En route we diverted to look at another T4 Topaz near Kidderminster but whilst its interior was immaculate there were a few bodywork and engine concerns that raised a query. I'm not looking to change this one but it's always worth a look at options....

It was good to see Pete and Nina again in a rather soggy Derbyshire - we managed to get up on to the field for water and parked facing downhill for a sure getaway before walking over to their new location on hardstanding with water, power and a septic tank alongside a barn. Nina provided snacks and nibbles and we enjoyed the luxury of RV life. Sunday's plan to catch the open top bus again was thwarted as flooding had caused the service to be suspended but a day in Bakewell followed by a walk to Hassop station was more than adequate and we enjoyed a ride in their Dreamer D68.

So yesterday we returned to Sheffield where I spent the day cleaning and unloading the van ready for its MOT - I changed the fuel filter and swopped the now empty and redundant Calor Gas bottles for my 3 European Camping Gaz ones and then spent a few hours catching up with Penny.

Today the van passed its MOT with flying colours, Autohaus Dolby had sourced a VW starter motor which whilst more expensive should last as long as the one removed which was 22 years old, and also swopped the four rear caliper bolts that had been so tricky to remove a few weeks back.

Thus I am set to head off for mid and North Wales tomorrow with a month to myself only slightly marred by the prospect of two dental extractions in November before our fortnight in Cumbria.

CLICKY PICCY