BACKING BRITAIN

A tough 55 mile ride from Llangurrig down to Rhayader, round the Elan Valley, on to Cwmystwyth, past The Arch and a return via two bothies left me tired but exhilarated, especially as now all 3 bothies have been found to be in good order. It was lovely to be back in Sheffield later that week and I took time to sort out all my maps and travel guides that I had been lugging around, probably for the last time as many of the guides are out of date and the internet provides more relevant information. Similarly my SatMap 1:25,000 maps cover most places as well as various cycling and walking apps. One of the Satmap Battery packs fell apart which just leaves me the one and a pack that will take 3 AAs if necessary, such a shame the company went under as the device has been one of my best ever purchases for outdoor pursuits.

 Mandy's lad and his girlfriend were dropped at the station at the start of their trip to Colombia and Central America after which we departed for a few days away in Lincolnshire staying initially at Binbrook after looking round the rather delightful Brigg. Three Romanian construction workers were in a caravan on the CL but otherwise it was very quiet and they were a friendly lot due to return home soon so in good spirits. We cycled 53 miles the next day down to Louth for market day where I sourced some antihistamines after almost swallowing a wasp and developing a ludicrous 'trout pout'. Pushing on to the coast near Donna Nook we failed to see the attraction of staying in, let alone purchasing, one of the statics that sit densely packed in along the coast. A highlight of the ride was an old deconsecrated church where you could almost feel the history in its poignant remains.

Similar emotions came to the fore at the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Museum at East Kirby where a team of dedicated and skilled restorers are working on a surviving Lancaster bomber. By chance it was due to taxi out around the airstrip twice that day and we were suitably impressed as the 4 Merlin engines fired up one by one before the immense airframe moved out on to the grass with a number of enthusiasts occupying the cockpit, gunnery positions and rear section. It was hugely impressive and whilst waiting for the second event after lunch we very much enjoyed the large number of displays relating to the history of the Lancaster, Bomber Command and of course the remarkable Dambusters story. Lunch in the NAAFI was another opportunity to support the restoration project after which we were again mesmerised by the sheer power and presence of 'Just Jane'.

The complex was a former military airfield and the various buildings held cameos and exhibitions relating to wartime life - perhaps the most moving relating to the fate of those shot down over enemy territory and assisted in safe passage by courageous locals who often experienced severe retribution for their actions. All in all it was a moving and fascinating place to visit with far too much there to be fully related here. We were also allowed to stay overnight in the peaceful grassy car park - hugely appreciated.

 

The following day we pulled in to the Lincoln P&R to catch the bus in to town and visit the stunning cathedral which had been closed on our last visit a few years ago. Whilst enjoying lunch in the courtyard cafe the Red Arrows shot past directly overhead - a great sight but too fast for photos.

Moving on we stayed in Dethick where the friends I met in Germany are based and met a mutual friend Barry who has just secured an Irish passport thus banishing his Brexit shenanigans once and for all. We were staying there to pick up some clothing ordered in at Bakewell and I also had a cunning plan up my sleeve. Warning Mandy that we mysteriously had to be outside The Chakra Lounge cafe for 11. 30, this was merely a ploy to prevent her realising that we were about to jump on the recently launched Peak Sightseer open topped bus that follows a one way figure of 8 circuit every half hour to Chatsworth, Baslow, Hassop and Ashford in the Water. For £6 a head you can jump on and off all day and the experience of travelling through the scenery high up and just missing the tree branches and tunnel arches is certainly one to go for. We stopped at Chatsworth for an hour but on our return to Bakewell forgot to signal the bus to stop so were quite happy to go round once more, this time on the top deck again but at the front under cover as the continuing poor summer was letting the side down again. The service is a credit to Stagecoach and Derbyshire County Council and I emailed them positive feedback, mentioning in particular the friendly drivers who seemed to be really enjoying the service.

Back in Sheffield a new Shurflo water pump was waiting - stupidly leaving the old one running for several hours in Czechia had done the leisure battery no good (replaced earlier) but I was aware that the old pump was running more noisily, less efficiently, was not holding the pressure and had a slight leak. Access to replace it meant removing all clothing etc. from the wardrobe, dismantling my free standing shelves and easing up the floor to gain access, being fully aware of how brittle 20 year old plastic has become. I took photos of the plumbing and electrical connections as I went but remarkably even after 20 years the replacement pump had identical water and power connections - and even the four mounting holes lined up. I had ordered a new in line pre strainer but was surprised at how little had accumulated in the old one after 20 years and in the 6 years of my ownership almost full time use with a shower every day. Screw fit connectors were soon in place, the wires attached and a test run confirmed that all was well with quieter running, no leaks and pressure maintained so the floor panel, shelves and contents could go back in. I left the old pump tucked away in a void as it would make a serviceable spare but I fully expect the new one to see me out!

 

Monday saw the delivery of new outside seating which we manoeuvred in to place on the balcony with the help of Lynn and Steve - it's a good job he's well over 6' tall whilst I packed up for another trip south including some bottles and kegs from Bradfield Brewery for a forthcoming BBQ.

We joined Penny, a colleague I trained with 45 years ago, and Yolande a contact from Portugal who had met Penny when we took Mum out there in 2014 after Dad's passing almost a decade ago now, for a good meal at Zara's in Crookes. Yolande like me has to contend with the new Sheffield Clean Air Zone and is loathe to scrap a perfectly good camper van (other than being a T5!) that is much newer than mine but still falls foul of the regs. To this end as Sheffield has inexplicably included the congestion reducing ring road in its zone I merely travel one junction futher up on the M1 and then drive through densely populated urban areas passing many schools, care homes and the local general hospital - what a ludicrous situation......

It appears that my friend in Portugal may have sold the campsite that has been my refuge for many Christmases over the last 15 years but that does give me other options for the forthcoming winter with Italy, Tunisia, Greece and Turkey looming large - watch this space. Anyway it was good to catch up and the following day I headed across rural Derbyshire via Buxton and then Stoke to catch up with my brother in Shropshire. We arranged to meet up on mountain bikes and I left for Brecon and another shambolic lumber around the badminton courts. Over at Sennybridge I joined Crad and Dawn with their son and his Czech fiancee for a good meal at their local - the farmer owned Shoemaker's Inn that has a new tennant landlord.It was good to see the happy couple and Leah was of course very familiar with places in her native country I had visited less than a month ago.

Up at Lower Chapel Jan and Ian were hosting the Hereford Caving Club 'Summer' BBQ so we spent Friday putting up a marquee, organising seating and planning the food. I also undertook a repair with fibreglass of the washroom toiletry cupboard as a leaking insect repellent had eaten right through the plastic floor, the repair is far stronger than the original and the fumes soon evaporated. Inclement weather caused a few issues re the marquee later that day but things eased off on the Saturday and we all enjoyed a memorable evening, due in no small part to Dan's ingenious 'cave jenga' that involved a steel IBC container frame and wooden poles that recreated the sorts of squeezes and bending that caving often requires. It was a brilliant evening so many thanks to Jan and Ian for all their hard work and hospitality. A mate from Frome was enjoying his new Wild Ax Pulsar - a definite consideration should I eventually have to change vehicles but as yet I have no intention of doing so and will adapt to the new regimes of CAZs, LEZs and the like.

On Sunday afternoon I cycled up to Moel Prysgau bothy for the first time in a year - clear felling across the river has changed things a bit for access from the 'top track' but at least a screen of Sitka spruce has been left to retain the bothy's seclusion. All was well there although with no bridge thanks to some idiots breaking and then burning it a while back the feet took a soaking.

After a quiet night in the hills I had planned to ride the Sustrans route from Tregaron to Aberystwyth but my brother rang asking to bring our planned ride forward by a day so we met at Nant Yr Arian Visitor Centre later that morning for a long overdue - 40 years - ride together on the Syfydrin Black run - 20 plus miles of mixed, remote, challenging but hugely rewarding Black level trail. We chatted to a guy in one hamlet who has almost finished rebuilding a shell of a cottage that I have been observing over the years, noticed a completely new and stylish new build and looked down on an old farmhouse that is also undergoing restoration with solar panels and what may well be a bunk house. Coffee and cake as the hundreds of red kites arrived for their daily feast of raw chicken saw us going our parting ways but not before I had a quick whizz on his emtb - very impressive but not for me yet as I still enjoy the buzz and the burn.

This changed for me the very next day as after a night at Glangwy campsite near Llangurrig I cycled over to the Hafren Forest, up the tracks towards the sources of the Wye and Severn and then encountered almost wintery conditions on the slopes of Plynlymmon as a I crossed to the Sweet Lamb motor racing circuit. Even the shepherds gathering sheep looked cheesed off as I shot down to the A44 and crossed over for a return to Nant Rhys bothy with the intention of locking all access gates. A long climb up to the hut had me drooling over power assistance but I will hold out for as long as poss. due to charging and weight considerations. The bothy had seen a visit from a fellow, and local, bothy stalwart whose regular visits combined with NRW's new padlocks and restricted key holders' policy seem to be keeping on top of bothy misuse.

Back at Glangwy I dealt with the loo, cleaned the washroom, washed most of the muck off the bike and prepared for an early start to Sheffield following morning. I had found out that the Calor depot at Worcester still had some 3.9kg Propane cylinders despite their unwelcome and unpopular withdrawal by Calor UK. As it was more or less en route to CAK tanks at Kenilworth I called in and had a good chat with the lad there - he reckons the company cannot make a profit on smaller cylinders but as they are a quarter of the price of the nearest equivalent Camping Gaz 907s they could change this by charging slightly more : Flogas seem able to supply an equivalent at a competitive price but have a short term cylinder shortage. In a corporate world where being green is foremost in company literature it again seems ludicrous that the withdrawn Calor cylinders will be scrapped whilst Flogas commission thousands of new almost identical cylinders, surely a safety check and a respray would be better all round. Anyway with luck I now have enough to see me through Autumn after which I will be back on CG for my winter trips.

At CAK I wanted a Thetford Freshen Up kit to give me a new loo seat as the old one has split - they should strengthen their design and I will use the remainder of the fibreglass kit to do just that. The spare cassette can sit quietly in store but the yellow cap has gone in the van as a spare as they are so easily lost down a poorly designed disposal point. I also picked up a new fresh water inlet point and a length of pipe before heading up to Sheffield and an empty house as Mandy is on an unexpected cycling holiday in Mull. 

Thus today I replaced the old fresh water inlet and leaking filling pipe - this plus a small overflow tube and the washroom sink waste pipe all exit the van through a tight space near the rear swing arm. It took some ingenuity and a hairdryer for heat to ease out the old pipes and replace the new plus a section of rigid waste pipe to join the new filler pipe to the existing run to the tank but eventually all was done and that concludes a long list of minor repairs and tweaks that with luck will set me up for Autumn in the UK and another longish trip through winter and in to 2024.

Before then there  is much to look forward to as I head to Dumfries and Galloway next week, then down to Wales and Devon for house sits via a meet up on the Mendips before our trip to Lundy in October. November sees MOTs and the traditional Langdale break before I head south.

Further pics here.....

 

Czech Republic and Home

Heading away from Brno with the weather still very hot I stopped at Mikulov with its impressive castle overlooking the town which was built in the 13th Century, used as a store for hoarded art objects by the Nazis and burnt down at the end of WW2 but rebuilt in the 1950's.

 I took one of the tour options (Czech language only) which gave us access to some of the more private rooms and the chapel before passing through Slavonice close to the Austrian border with its two squares containing many fine examples of Rennaissance architecture. Further west at Telc I stopped at a small site and bar next to a lake within easy walking distance of the centre. Here the large castle was closed for renovations but you could still ascend the nearby Black Tower passing the bells and supporting timbers for a good view over the centre and across the many ponds that surround the town. Whilst walking through the old centre sirens could be heard and a number of fire appliances arrived outside the castle but were unable to pass through the narrow gates. Miles of hose pipes were unfurled and an ancient tender eventually turned up carrying several crew that was able to pass through and deal with the incident - all very Camberwick Green. Back at the site I enjoyed a beer and an excellent steak grilled on the outdoor BBQ before a quiet but warm night. Before leaving the following day I walked over to the small motor museum which had ancient Skodas, various Rolls Royces and a range of other vehicles plus a surprisingly extensive collection of old prams alongside household artefacts going back over the decades.

 

Cesky Krumlov on the Vitava River was well worth a visit although the campsite on the river bank north of the town was very busy as it is a staging post or end point for the many rafting businesses on the river. A large covered area provided beer and grilled food and minibus and trailer combos were returning rafts and rafters constantly. I walked in to town where the Vitava follows numerous tight meanders with various weirs and sluices offering paddlers an exciting experience beneath the castle walls. I stopped to watch various groups pass through before exploring the streets and alleys of the Old Town.

 

 

Ceske Budejovice provided a much quieter place to stay with basic camping on a sports field by the river with a cycle track in to town. A music festival was underway in the centre on the opposite bank but I enjoyed cycling round the largely traffic free cobbled centre before choosing a riverside cafe for pizza and beer. The impressive town hall dominated the square (one of Europe's largest) which featured a range of fine buildings and some lovely floral displays after which I returned to the field and had a quiet beer in the clubhouse bar.

 

 

 Heading north through Bohemia I arrived at Karlstejn which has a remarkable castle perched high above the village and river. The site sandwiched between the river, a road and a railway was again busy but I found a spot and walked back to the village passing a lovely old T2 VW van sadly rotting away under a tree. The steep walk up to the castle reached the outer walls and then an inner courtyard from where a choice of tours began. I took one with an English audio guide that allowed me to appreciate the splendour of the various rooms and chambers we passed through whilst from terraces and courtyards we could enjoy views over the village and surrounding countryside.

 

Whilst walking back I detoured across to the railway station to check out the trains in to Prague before returning to the site where every last space had been filled, and more. Early next morning I was away for the 40 minute journey in to Prague and spent the day in the city which for a few hours after I arrived was reasonably quiet. I walked up to the huge castle for the views and then crossed the famous King Charles Bridge where buskers and caricature artists were gearing up for the increasing throng. Cities are not really my thing and I hadn't planned to visit this one but it was worth the effort and I caught a late afternoon train back glad to have made the effort.

 

A Czech family's large garden provided a small but pleasant site at Kutna Hora a couple of miles outside the town, easily reached by bike, which allowed me to visit the stunning Gothic St. Barbara's Cathedral with its magnificent central nave, vaulted ceilings and external flying buttresses. From there I stopped at the Italian Court whose terraces gave good views back up to the Cathedral and stopped again during my return at the Sedlec ossuary with it's macabre collection of bones and skulls many used to line the vaulted ceiling and form a bizarre central chandelier - unfortunately photography was not permitted.

Hradec Kralove was worth a stop whilst heading north with its large square reached through a long stone tunnel beneath the White Tower. Another beautiful array of old buildings with colourful facades surrounded the large square with a quirky clock whose small hand pointed to the minutes, whilst the large did the hours.

Hard up against the Polish border the Ardspach Teplice Rocks were a remarkable jumble of sandstone pillars and towers with gorges and the odd lake extending over many square miles - it was again busy and entrance was by timed admission with parking needing to be reserved in advance online as well and a rip off at £20 for a camper. Bizarrely half a mile up the road camping with EHU was only £15 a night via an honesty box so I parked up and walked back to the entrance to reserve a ticket for 9 the following morning. 

 

Thus I was away early ahead of most people and had the impressive stones largely to myself before following the Wolf's Gorge for a couple of hours down to Teplice and taking the ten minute train journey back to the start point - all in all well worth doing - if you beat the crowds.

Beneath the twin keeps of Trosky Castle Michael runs a cracking little site in a wooded valley and provided a map with a selection of walking and cycling routes which combined with my SatMap enabled me to pass through another (and much quieter) area of sandstone pillars and gorges before the steep climb up to the castle for the chance to climb both towers, admire the views and enjoy a pork schnitzel, chips and a beer before the ride home. That night there was a spectacular thunderstorm and heavy rain which heralded a change in the weather for the next fortnight or so.

 

On considering my options I decided that after 10 months away and with the fridge and water heater requiring attention it was time to head west. My leisure battery was also showing signs of failure, probably due to ite being run low when I stupidly left the switch on allowing the water pump to kick in but as there was an airlock it just ran for several hours so I booked a ferry from Dunkirk for 3 days hence and crossed in to Germany later that day.

By chance friends from Derbyshire were nearby and we arranged to meet up for me to have a good look over their new Dreamer van. We met in a park up in the woods only to find they had their second puncture in a week so we set to to change the wheel in a steady drizzle. These are heavy old vans so it was a bit nerve wracking raising it with the scissor jack but before long we were sorted and then educating ourselves in the peculiarities of the Ducato spare wheel mounting system. After a good evening's catch up we drove in to the nearby town where a garage said the repair would be ready after lunch giving us time to catch up further over coffee and cake before going our separate ways.

Half way across Germany I tucked away in woodland before crossing in to Belgium the following day in heavy rain which seemed to vindicate my decision. 90 minutes short of Dunkirk I stopped overnight in a French village observing how much more supportive France is of van dwellers. The local Leclerc supermarket was the most well stocked retail outlet I'd seen since Caceres in January. With a reasonable command of French it was nice to eat out in the local cafe and understand more or less everything that was said, the tricky languages of the last 6 weeks have been quite trying at times.

 

I arrived at Dunkirk with a few hours to spare and was bumped on to the midday sailing instead for no extra charge which was great. Two hours later we arrived beneath the grey cliffs of Dover and after some expected delays on the rain sodden M25 I was barreling along the M4 to Wales where I parked up in an old haunt in Brecon.

This last week has been busy and productive - the fridge flue was dismantled, cleaned and reassembled with new insulation so all works fine now - a good jet of air blew out the inlet and outlet flues of the Truma water heater and that is also fine whilst a new leisure battery was delivered to Sennybridge followed eventually by the required terminal adapters so all is well on that front. I chased up annual blood tests for myself and booked the van in for a small area of rust to be seen to in September as well as ordering a new bike cover.

Now the van is more than 20 years old UK/EU breakdown cover is perhaps understandably proving hard to secure so I may well be just even more proactive on pre departure maintenance so to this end will be changing all discs and pads, the ancillary belt and all filters in the Autumn. I will also have a new starter motor fitted as I think this one is the original but will then keep it on board as a spare, as I have done with an alternator.

I caught up with friends in Brecon as well with a good badminton session and went to the cinema to see the new Mission Impossible film - a confusing plot line and reworked tricks were at least saved by some impressive stunts and memory inducing scenes in Venice.

So I head north after this weekend with lots to look forward to including house sits in Brecon and Lynton, a stay on Lundy Island and the annual visit to the Lake District. I expect to be away again by Christmas but my destination is at present uncertain.

Yesterday I walked in to our bothy above the Elan Valley and was pleased to find everything in good order - it is a decade since the project was completed and given the location and weather the sturdy building has withstood the test of time.

 

 A couple of nights off grid at the peaceful Glangwy campsite outside Llangurig are a chance to rest and reflect plus test the capabilities of the new battery and after a day of heavy rain with luck I'll be out on the bike to two more nearby bothies in better weather tomorrow. 

Pics as ever here......