DECEMBER'S DAWDLE SOUTH

We left Langdale after the thaw had set in and planned to visit my aunt in York on the way down to Sheffield only to hear very sadly that she had passed away. However we called on the family on the Saturday and relived many happier memories before a safe final leg home.

I spent a day sorting out the van ready for my departure on Tuesday and added in my old Moroccan gas bottles, a single sleeping bag and the new EcoFlow River2 power pack/inverter that had arrived sooner than expected.

 

An oil and filter change plus ancillary belt on the Monday threw up no surprises and I am grateful to Maddy and her team at Autohaus Dolby for continuing good service. Thus I have 10,000 miles before further work is required having recently also changed air and fuel filters. I have two each of these as spares and 6l of oil plus a filter stored onboard should I encounter poor quality fuel or sandstorms later in the trip.

No such dramas were encountered on my way to Portsmouth where I arrived in plenty of time for the late evening sailing. I took a walk round the neighbourhood opposite the ferry terminal in search of aspirin I'd forgotten to pick up and was somewhat unnerved by the slightly rough and ready environment.

We were loaded and away on time and the route out of Portsmouth was as fascinating as ever and left time to grab a late meal in the Commodore Lounge as I had paid for the pass. My cabin was fine and I slept well but the following day whilst the sea appeared calm there was in fact a huge swell and the vessel rolled and pitched more than you might expect. Thus after breakfast and a walk round I retired to my cabin and largely slept through the crossing, as we arrived at Santander things had calmed down so I enjoyed a good breakfast but didn't feel I had had my £85 worth so probably wouldn't take that option again..

Down on the car deck I spotted an old T3 in the next lane who had been directed to park far too close to the larger van in front. During the crossing both had come in to contact and he had two fist sized holes in his windscreen caused by the other van's bike rack. The crew had tied down these and other vehicles after the event and I felt really sorry for the guy as he would be unlikely to get a replacement screen before New Year and would need a serviced site for the wait. Leaving him to fill out forms with one of the ship's officers I left counting my blessings and was through immigration and customs in minutes with the sat nav soon having me on the road south.

With almost a week to get to Marvao I was in no rush and stopped mid afternoon on an aire in Saldana, took a walk round the village, did some food shopping and picked up a Lycamobile SIM card with 100Gb for 15 euros to stick in my spare phone to avoid paying the post Brexit roaming fee.

After an afternoon nap I woke to see a large peacock standing on the table outside who was clearly used to being fed by vanners and hoped he would not appear at first light even though with Spain being an hour different that would not be until 08.30.

Next day after a good night's sleep I visited the spectacular remains of a large Roman villa at nearby Olmeda and enjoyed the many well preserved mosaics and outlines of the various rooms all housed under a vast protective roof.

 

Further south at Fromista which is a popular stop on the Camino de Santiago I visited the very well preserved romanesque church of San Martin and had lunch at a small cafe who's menu del dia was very much hearty local cooking. Medina de Rio Seco was my next stop with it's main street in the old centre lined by shops whose upper storeys were supported by huge timber pillars. The Christmas lights added to an enchanting scene and I was very moved by the sight of a large group of excited old ladies all trooping in to the sports centre for a Christmas meal.

 A couple of interesting castles on my way south included one where all that remained was a huge circular keep that was in a state of collapse situated above a church that had been stabilised following similar issues.

At Medina Del Campo the main attraction is the huge brick built Castle Mota whose ground floor and ramparts I could visit - the guided tour of other floors began late afternoon and as always I was keen to avoid driving after dark.

 

 

Arriving on a very cold, grey and damp afternoon at Madrigal de Las Altas Torres I parked in the rather desolate aire with a thick fog reducing visibility. However I donned my superwarm down jacket and walked the perimeter of this rather lovely town that once had over 60 towers of which 20 or so remain. In the eerie light and empty streets it was very mystical and would be worth another visit in warm sunshine. The heater soon had the van warmed up on my return and I slept well waking to yet more fog.

As I approached Bejar though the clouds rolled back and blue skies appeared as I drove through the Sierra Francia to arrive on the aire at La Albueca a mountain village with a maze of old streets and traditional buildings. There was time to do a walk through the pine woods to an excellent viewpoint before returning to the village which was much busier. This turned out to be due to the switching on of the Christmas lights which transformed the main square and delighted the crowds. Unfortunately although sponsored by Ferrero Rocher there were no freebies being given out, probably no bad thing as our two weeks in Langdale had been a little indulgent. 

 

It was a cold night but all my window insulation paid off and the morning sun soon got to work as I descended roads with icy patches in the shade and stopped for diesel. Just along from the garage a car was being winched from a ditch but the two occupants seemed unharmed and down on the plain everything had warmed up.

Coria in Extremadura had another historic centre and some very fine walls but being a Monday most of the public buildings were closed, however just walking round in warm sun under impossibly blue skies was more than enjoyable. Another hour or so saw me crossing the Tagus on a spectacular Roman bridge near Alcantara before pulling in to Carbajo right on the Spanish/Portuguese border. This tiny village had provided an excellent aire (even though the EHU was off) and I enjoyed a short walk round the 3 streets before returning to sit in the sun and admire a striking mural on a municipal building across the road. A Polish couple who I thought might be staying drove off as I think they were hoping for power to heat their van - the Eber is probably the single best piece of kit I have and friends in Derbyshire have just installed one to keep their RV warm. The new SIM wanted to pick up the Portuguese network but as I had not activated roaming before leaving Spain (which technically I hadn't) I couldn't fire up so reverted to using my UK allowance and paying the post Brexit £3 - perhaps I could send the bill to Boris or Nigel....

I picked up bread and a few bits in Valencia D'Alcantara before taking familiar roads full of very happy memories across the old border point and on in to the Alentejo. As I had made good time I nipped up to Marvao and surprised Joao at work in the shop before walking the sun soaked walls as eagles soared above the cliffs. I then realised I had forgotten to activate the Lyca roaming so nipped back to Valencia before finally turning up at the delightful Camping Asseiceira, my base for about a fortnight.

After a quick catch up with Gary I filled up with water, grabbed a pitch that would get full sun and allow me to keep an eye on the house and gate and then offloaded the bikes and other bits and bobs.

Gary and Joao headed off on the Thursday leaving me the two dogs and an assortment of cats to keep an eye on, the locals were harvesting what has apparently been a bumper olive crop and I enjoyed walking the back lanes passing traditional old farmhouses with even more seeming empty as the older generation pass away but younger descendants migrate to the cities or even abroad for work.

 

Down at Beira the station looked as amazing as ever but still lacks a meaningful post closure role although the rail bike set up and small hotel are trying hard. Whilst sat in the sun at Bernardo's cafe a couple approached me and began asking questions in Portuguese so of course I feigned ignorance at which point she switched to English. She and her husband were visiting the station to take photos and videos as he was planning to create a replica model railway based on the place. They also wanted to find locals with memories of its heyday and had been told of a 90 year old with white hair who used the cafe ....... thanks.

I drove over to Portalegre on the Friday to stock up with food and was disappointed to find that the Bricomarche DIY store had no 907 Campingaz cylinders in stock. Fortunately I am on EHU so it's not vital but again availability is something of a nuisance.

So a quiet Christmas weekend was spent with the dogs being walked twice a day and the sun warm enough for afternoons sat in the sun planning my onward journey. The van got a good clean out thanks to a handy Henry and some elbow grease.

Joao returned on Thursday after a successful trip to see family and I restocked at the Pingo Doce in Castello de Vide before yesterday doing a 40 mile ride out to the Barragem at Povoa and back through Beira and Bernardo's once more. Joao took the dogs with him for the weekend so I had a lie in this morning and have been busy with booking the ticket to Tangier (£214 one way) and compiling a handy reckoner for currency conversions from the pound and euro to dirhams, the Mauritanian Ouiguiga and the Central African Franc as used in Senegal.

Printing off these documents and updating the blog has given me a chance to try the EcoFlow River 2 which is a clever piece of kit and will allow me to preserve the van's leisure battery, provide additional power storage and be a useful portable power source for 12v DC, 13 amp AC and twin USB A ports.

So with luck my next post in a week or two will be from Morocco - I am heading more or less straight to Algeciras on Friday and Saturday and will then head steadily south as Dakar is some 2500 miles away and things will only get hotter as the New Year moves on.

So wishing everyone a very Happy New Year : remember 'life is short so keep it sweet'...............

Flix ere.

A NOVEMBER TO REMEMBER

 As expected the van passed its MOT with no issues or advisories and Autohaus Dolby had sourced and fitted an OEM starter motor - the old one was the original and after 22 years might I thought be about to expire - the only time I needed recovery in the old van was when the SM failed so thank you Maddison and the team.

I packed up for a solo trip of five weeks and headed down to Church Stretton which allows overnight parking for vans. This set me up for catching the Heart of Wales Line train down to Swansea next day - it's a lovely route but notoriously unreliable but the train manager assured me that this one would go all the way to Swansea and return as she was on it both ways. Thus 3 and a bit hours through the familiar scenery of mid and south Wales on a sunny Autumn day passed very enjoyably with time for a pie and a pint in Swansea before I headed back. On the way down the northbound train was running late so as we couldn't enter the single track token controlled section the TM announced we would be waiting at Llanwrtyd Wells long enough to walk in to town for the shop which a few of us did.

By the time we reached Llandrindod Wells the train was empty but a rather unruly drunk boarded and the TM asked if she could sit next to me as a precaution. He stumbled off at Knighton and the rather eerie train carried on towards Shrewsbury with just myself as a passenger.

After calling on my brother in Bishop's Castle I stocked up in Newtown for a spell at Llangurrig where I sat out a few wet days. I tried to ride up to the nearby bothy but my chain kept slipping so I returned to base just before the heavens opened.

After a night in Brecon for badminton I collected a fully overhauled bike from Jason at Biped Cycles : £650 covered a new rear wheel, block, chain and chainring plus bottom bracket bearings and rear pads, I use the bike a lot so after two years this seemed reasonable enough. I joined friends in Sennybridge for a meal at the Shoemakers before heading down to Swansea to look at various options for a new laptop. Two nights at Kidwelly Quay gave me a superb ride in bright sunshine through Pembrey, Burry Port and along to Swansea. Later I walked the shore path and had the stunning spectacle of four marsh ponies careering across the muddy flats, ploughing up the river and then heading towards me arriving in a flurry of sweat and sea water - they were just being inquisitive and perhaps, although in vain, hoping for a carrot or two.

 

I moved on intending to spend a night on a small aire north of Llantrisant so arrived at Ali and Amy's smallholding reached by some rather tight lanes. It was a quiet spot and handily placed for a visit to the Museum of Rural Life at St Fagan's the next day. This is mainly a collection of various old buildings from around Wales and is well worth a visit. It was a bright sunny day and I enjoyed  revisiting the place after perhaps 30 years. Friendly and informative staff were sat tending open fires in the older buildings and work was under way to open the latest attraction - an old pub. I also visited the castle and gardens which had not been available last time which add to an already worthwhile attraction.

 

Back at the aire I decided to stay on and had a chat with the owners about my previous life and their hopes for the set up - access for larger vans is tricky but otherwise it is a lovely spot and I stayed on four nights. I visited the Royal Mint at Llantrisant which was within walking distance but felt it to be less absorbing than St Fagans. Their displays and exhibitions were interesting but access to the production areas was limited and understandably subject to strict security. On my return I passed a local curiosity - tucked away in a wooded valley a 'pagan' site consisted of an unusual rock protusion and some carved faces.

During some torrential rain the next day I headed in to Cardiff to the Fenix shop for a new head torch and rear bike light and to check out the John Lewis IT department where the staff seemed ill informed and disinterested. I also endured the delights of the NCP parking app, yet another modern day frustration.

On the Friday I headed up to the Whistle Inn just along from the UNESCO WH site of Blaenavon where the pub offers somewhat dishevelled camping high up in the hills. With no usable facilities other than water and a manhole cover I was grateful for the van's off grid capabilities as the Eber purred away on a damp and chilly evening. A couple from a van with not even a pop top looked cold and uncomfortable, not helped by them running out of gas the next morning. He came over to borrow a spanner but did not have a spare cylinder and hadn't realised that his size of Calor is no longer available.

As it was a fresh but sunny day I followed the cycle routes down the Clydach gorge with a stunning array of autumn colours to the canal that took me via the Goytre Wharf cafe to Ponytpool where I picked up the cycle track towards Abersychan. Here I rang Crad's son who lives nearby and was soon introduced to their delightful first son Henry who was an absolute charmer. George and Teri have taken on a fair old project with their large house but seemed very positive about everything. Back at the pub after almost fifty miles I was pleased with how much better the bike felt and enjoyed a hot shower and cosy van with good TV reception.

 

On the Sunday I moved on to the Promenade at Brecon for another quiet night in Brecon prior to the first of two dental appointments so presented myself on the Monday morning for a surprisingly quick extraction after which I headed to a friend's empty house at Talybont - they were away visiting family in Queensland and had offered their drive as a park up : much appreciated.

The following day I returned to Brecon to meet up with Pete and Nina who were on a tour of Wales in their new Ducato and we enjoyed a walk round Brecon, lunch at the excellent tapas bar - The Hop Inn - before later that evening going to the pics to see the rather lengthy Killers Of  The Flower Moon. Another energetic badminton session was followed by a quick call in at Sennybridge for post before I tucked away at the Usk reservoir with time to walk the perimeter path. It was a quiet spot although another van arrived at midnight, faffed about noisily and then drove off to the far side of the dam - cheers pal.

My plan to catch the HOWL train from Llandovery to Llandrindod was thwarted by cancellations so I drove to Cynghordy instead and completed a circular walk that took in the impressive viaduct. On my way back I got talking to a mother and son who manage a herd of 350 Saanen milking goats with the milk going to a cheese maker at Abergavenny. The goats seemed content to be housed year round and were quietly inquisitive as the son proudly gave me a tour of their 60 bay milking parlour. I moved on to the Sugar Loaf where the eponymous next station down is usually identified as the least used station in the UK. The car park for the short walk up to the summit with good views looks a good spot to tuck away some time. On the Sunday I headed down to my old haunts in the Swansea valley enjoying coffee with former neighbours and a good catch up with a fellow smallholder after almost 5 years. Great to see his kids now young adults and on their way in life.

After a walk round his fields and woods I returned to Brecon as a second dental appointment loomed for the Monday.

 

This did not go quite as well as the first - a wisdom tooth came out with ease but the final extraction took 90 minutes, involved some gruesome procedures and left both myself and the dentist somewhat shell shocked. I retreated to Talybont for two nights and cycled the canal out to Abergavenny the following day feeling a bit roughed up.

A covid booster jab on the Wednesday plus some anti malarials ordered online via Boots saw me as prepared as possible for the forthcoming jaunt to West Africa but after the long drive to Sheffield on Thursday I felt a bit rough and had an early night.

On Friday we packed up the van for our trip to Cumbria and headed off for Skipton via York where we visited my aunt who is now in care permanently and my uncle who is resting at home exhausted after four years of looking after her in the family home. Their son Michael is proving to be an absolute rock but clearly has a lot on his plate. Skipton main car park had perhaps 20 vans spread around and the town was busy on a crisp Friday night but we enjoyed a good meal in the Two Sisters Bar opposite the castle and enjoyed the Saturday market before a big Tesco shop and the run to Langdale.

 

As always the lodge was immaculately presented and we unpacked and settled in before Penny arrived on the Sunday. Whilst booking a table for midweek at the Stove restaurant I realised I had mislaid my bank card and after a search of the lodge and van worked out that it was last seen back at Tesco's - fortunately I eventually made contact with the store to confirm it was safely with Customer Service.

Thus late on Sunday evening I enjoyed a fast drive on empty roads in a lightly laden van, parked up overnight at Gargrave station and arrived bright and early at CS only to find they didn't open until 8 - thus a meal deal and Top Gear on IPlayer filled two hours before I retrieved my card and was back by 10am. We walked locally and dined well in the Stove restaurant which has at last managed to recruit staff and chefs and provides a good range of menu options.

On Tuesday Tony from Blackburn arrived early on a bright morning and the four of us set off over to Little Langdale stopping at Dale End Farm where hot drinks and cakes are available under a covered area with an honesty box. Passing through Tilberthwaite via the lovely Slater's bridge we went our separate ways at Tilberthwaite Gill as the girls returned via Hodge Close and Colwith to Skelwith Bridge and we climbed alongside the Gill to head south to wards Coniston before swinging north for an easy ascent of Wetherlam with stunningly clear views across to Ingleborough, Pendle Hill, Heysham power station and the fells to the north, some with a dusting of snow. Our route continued via Prison Band to Swirl How with a return via Wet Side Edge and down in to Greenburn. The last hour back past Dale End by head torch was great fun and concluded a 13 mile walk in perfect conditions.

Wednesday saw a walk over Loughrigg to Ambleside on a chilly day with the bus back and after an indulgent session in the spa and super hot pool with an outdoor section Penny left on Thursday giving us time to enjoy a swim before Marcus and Sandra arrived on the Friday with an excellent curry.

 

We woke to an inch or so of snow on Saturday morning and were mesmerised by the further 8 inches that fell in the next few hours bringing most of South Cumbria to a halt. I had drained the van water but forgot to open the various sink and shower taps so put up all the window insulation and left both the Eber and electric heater blasting away for a few hours. The lodge cleaning teams were unable to get home that night and various guests were trapped on site with new arrivals unable to get beyond Windermere. We walked out to Colwith Bridge and round to Skelwith Bridge via the converted byre at Park House with hot drinks and cakes available. Stove were able to honour our booking so we all enjoyed another excellent meal and took in the magic of 9 inches of snow that had settled vertically in the absence of any wind. The roads were impassable all day so Marcus and Sandra stayed a third night but got away and home safely this morning leaving us a final few milder and wetter days that should see the white stuff on its way.

 

We return to Sheffield on Saturday, the van has an oil change booked for a week today and a week tomorrow I should be on the ferry to Santander so with luck my next post will be from a warmer and sunnier Portugal.......

More pix ear...

WALES AND THE SOUTH WEST

 After a quick sort out of maps and kit we headed away to Newtown where Grooms Garage undertook the two yearly Eber service which is never cheap as the glow plug alone is almost a hundred squids but with a good clean out and all post Moroccan dust removed this indispensable utility should be fit for the next couple of years.

We then stayed a night at Llangurrig before dropping down to the Elan Valley and walking in to Lluest Cwm Bach bothy to take measurements for Martin the MO to replace a door catch and fit a new internal wall to the loo as some genius had decided to burn the original. Similarly gifted individuals had also stayed the weekend and left their rubbish everywhere including a fresh dump right by the front door and a Tesco Club Card. There would be little likelihood of Tesco divulging any information, let alone the local constabulary taking an interest so yet again we cleaned up as best we could and carted several bags out to the van. Down at the Elan Valley Trust office the ever helpful Annette said we could use their skip and arranged for a quad and trailer to be available in a week or two to carry in materials across the bog of doom.

After a quick shower and change in the van we drove on down to Sennybridge where we had a good catch up with Crad and Dawn on a windswept and rainy night. Next day in Brecon I checked that the bodyshop was still expecting the van in the following week for a couple of patches of rust to be dealt with and we then arrived at Lower Chapel which would be our base for ten days.

I set about replacing the discs and pads all round but was initially stymied by a recalcitrant caliper mouning bolt that was in danger of rounding off - however some penetrating oil and a cup of tea followed by a higher quality socket eventually had the thing moving and by the end of the day all was well. The rear pads were almost through but the discs seemed fine. Up front there was plenty of life left on the pads so I suspect they were two different brands. Anyway as since the long descents in the Atlas Mountains I have had a judder on braking I replaced everything all round as planned so should be good for another 30k miles on the pads and 60k on the discs.

Unfortunately my left knee which had been recovering well from a graze sustained in Dumfries objected to being knelt on for many hours and began to get inflamed to the extent that by Friday Jan ran me down to the MIU at Brecon where I was seen almost immediately and prescribed 7 days of Flucloxacillin after the rather unsightly wound was cleansed and dressed. This freed the four of us up to go to Hay on Wye via the Railway Garden Centre to view the recently restored castle and enjoy the excellent cafe.

Dale arrived on Friday night as planned and we were all well fed as always by Jan and enjoyed their cosy sitting room and log burner.

Despite my knee and now swollen leg the four of us headed across the fields and forests to Erwood Craft Centre in the Wye Valley on a sunny day before Mandy and Jan headed back to do the animals and Dale and I added a longer loop out to the Roundabout and back via Glasbury and Boughrood. Pizzas that evening were well earned but we had a relatively early night as Jan and Ian were off to York from Newport the  following morning.

Having dropped them off I returned to Brecon and met with Dale for a ride along the canal to Talybont and then the long climb up to Torpantau. On the fast wet descent along a forestry track I came a cropper, avoided landing on the dodgy knee by landing on my face and thus added a bloodied nose to my list of woes. Later on the canal I took another tumble this time landing on the knee and seeing some very colourful stars - is it time to refit stabilisers?

So on the Monday I dropped the van down to Jeff Allen in Brecon and saw a new dentist who declared that I will need two extractions shortly before we met friends from Ystradgynlais for tapas at the small but excellent No37 The Watton. Later that day I was still unhappy with the knee so went back to the MIU who took a look and agreed that an Xray to exclude the possibility of a foreign body might be a good idea. Thus on Tuesday morning this was done and fortunately nothing untoward was found : the fast and efficient service I received was in stark contrast to the headlines we read about the state of the NHS and grateful for their input I took the staff some treats for break time. The van was also ready and I was pleased with the bumper scuff and rust removal for a very reasonable £160.

That evening 6 of us were back at No37 for yet another good catch up and excellent food and on Wednesday I collected Jan and Ian from Abergavenny after their trip up north. Mandy had done all the daily farm chores and really enjoyed herself and we all dropped down to see Arthur in the village whose house had been flooded yet again whilst he was on a winter cruise.

 

 Next day we drove over the Beacons to Pant above Merthyr where we caught the Brecon Mountain Railway steam train up to Pontsticill reservoir - it was something I'd never done and provided good views to the tops of Pen Y Fan and Corn Ddu as well as a chance to view their engineering shed and a delightful model railway. On our drive back via Talybont we met a young Afghan couple on a trip from Southampton who were planning to tackle the horseshoe walk above Neuadd reservoirs in totally unsuitable footwear and clothing so I hope they took on board my friendly advice. We moved on to stay on the Promenade in Brecon and went to see A Haunting In Venice, not a particularly must see film but it was lovely to hark back to our visit there earlier this year.

We called at Martin's house at the Mumbles to hand over the bothy details and reflected that our trip round to Lynton would be 150 miles by road as opposed to the 20 odd miles by water. We admired his workshops where he has been designing and manufacturing new roof components for the ongoing Cae Amos bothy roof project before heading east to Frome to deliver a food parcel to Pete who had recently undergone hand surgery. It was then a short run to Priddy where we stayed at Eastwater Farm with the intention of meeting friends from Portishead but they rang first thing to declare a Covid issue so we walked down to Wookey, up through Ebbor Gorge and over Deerleap to Westbury sub Mendip before climbing back over to Priddy where Pete had arrived after deciding his surgery didn't prevent him driving. Dale and his wife joined us for an evening in the Hunters Inn which has hardly changed in the 40 years I have been calling in. Roger the landlord looks frailer but the hearty food was as good value as ever. On Sunday Pete took us down to Burrington for a good walk on a sunny day over Rowberrow with  great views across to Wales, and back via Tynings. With a service stop required we dropped down on to the Levels and stayed at Pine Tree Farm giving us the opportunity for a ride out across the lanes eventually reaching Glastonbury for a walk round. At the farm a newly arrived calf was very endearing.

Wednesday saw us heading over to Bishop's Lydeard where we were booked on the West Somerset Railway Cheese and Cider Special that rolled up to Minehead passing Blue Anchor as we enjoyed several decent cheeses, salad and rolls with a bottle of cider, followed after a couple of hours in Minehead by a cream tea on the return journey : yet another brilliant occasion made all the more memorable by friendly volunteer staff who were enjoying their work.

 At Watchett we parked near the station and took a walk round town on a mild evening before taking a pint in the Pebble Inn. Unfortunately we had just mised the chippie but were tempted by the aromas from the Spice Merchant where we enjoyed one of the best Indian meals of recent times before a quiet night in the van. After walking round the town once more and visiting the Grayson Perry exhibition at the East Quay arts complex we drove on to Dunster where we were supposed to meet Greg and Alex at the Luttrell Arms for lunch. Unfortunately they too had tested for Covid so just the two of us enjoyed lunch in the comfortable surroundings before finding a few previously unknown corners of the pretty village. 

Round at Lynton we elected to stay in the van and socialise at a distance with Greg and Alex who had decided to cancel their trip - using their lovely annexe would have involved closer contact and more work for Alex and the good weather enabled us to enjoy sitting outside and catching up. I also quickly jacked up the NSF wheel as in a rare rookie error I had incorrectly routed the brake wear indicator wire  and it had chafed triggering a warning light. Mandy also assisted me in renewing the brake fluid which completed all the servicing of the van prior to the next trip and MOT.

On the Saturday we walked down to Lynmouth to catch the Exmoor Coaster open topped bus for a memorably fun roller coast ride up Countisbury Hill, across the tops and down the mighty Porlock Hill - alarming for us despite the excellent driving. From Minehead we enjoyed a few hours walk along the Coast Path back to Porlock and caught the bus back, only slightly disappointed that it was on an ordinary one as the other had developed a fault. That evening we walked down to the local Indian takeaway who will fill your own prepurchased metal tiffin pans to cut down on plastic waste.

Moving on further down the coast after a morning laundry session we enjoyed an afternoon in the sun on a small site that also produces its own cider before arriving in Ilfracombe on Monday morning. We confirmed our booking for Tuesday at the Lundy Ticket Office, took a look round the town and enjoyed a crab sandwich at the sailing club overlooking the harbour.

Up at Mullacott Farm we packed our bags for the Lundy trip and next morning joined another group in a pre booked taxi down to the harbour, the remarkable coincidence of us all sharing the same surname caused the taxi controller some confusion but we all got there and our bags were soon craned aboard. On time at 10.00 we set sail for the two hour crossing, initially hugging the spectacular coast and then heading straight for the distant island. The 70 year old MV Oldenberg provided deck seating and a covered bar and galley below so I was tempted by a bacon sandwich as the calm sea was not causing me any issues. We arrived at the quay to be greeted by island staff who busied themselves with off loading luggage and cargo as we watched the numerous seals and pups sprawled on the beaches. A steep walk up to the village gave Mandy a chance to see the other properties available and at the shop we were told ours was all ready to occupy so we walked over to the 800 year old castle where the quaint Castle Keep South cottage was both warm and welcoming. Back at the as expected slightly pricy shop we bought the food required for four nights and by the time we had returned our bags had arrived. The accommodation was within the walls of the keep so only had one outward facing window across to Hartland Point with the others facing the two other cottages that formed 3 sides of the keep.

 

We set off on a walk up the east coast of the island as far as Tibbetts and then crossed to the more rugged west coast for a return via the Old Lighthouse. Built in 1820 it was abandoned after only 70 years as it was frequently shrouded in cloud and replaced by two lower ones at the northern and southern ends of the island. However it is still possible to climb the many steps to the top and enjoy 360 degree views from two deckchairs on the internal platform. The cottage was warm and comfortable so we stayed in reading up on the history of the island and its preservation before sleeping soundly.

Tuesday saw us following the south and then west coast up to the old Battery House where 13 people across two families had lived in a pair of semi detached cottages with the responsibilty of firing blanks from two old canon when the fog was down. Returning home we met a large Highland cow, saw deer and Soay sheep and passed a few of the hardy Lundy ponies before a well earned drink in the Marisco Tavern and another peaceful evening. 

 

Wednesday was forecast to be sunny all day so we walked to the northernmost tip, dropped below the lighthouse down some very dilapidated steps to the old landing point and enjoyed seal watching in splendid isolation. Earlier we had talked to the guys from Devon and Cornwall Fire and Rescue who had been on our sailing and were spending two days checking the island's fire security, training staff members and refeshing themselves on cliff rescue and other scenarios. A return to the lighthouse platform gave us a half decent sunset before we returned after dark as a storm rolled in.

Thursday was a bit wet initially so we walked down to the landing stage to watch more seals, climb up to the south lighthouse and then attend a talk on the island's birdlife by the resident ornithologist. Total eradication of the rat population a decade ago has led to a huge increase in survival rates for several species and there is a regular programme of ringing and data recording to monitor further progress. We enjoyed an excellent meal in the Marisco Tavern that evening at a very reasonable price and met our fellow taxi riders who were all staying in the large Millcombe House that had been the family home of the island's last private owner. They were all on a trip organised by Naturetrek who run natural history tours around the world.

On the Friday we visited the small museum, read all the info in the church and had a final visit to the lighthouse platform before packing for the Saturday departure.

Our last day saw us  leaving our luggage for collection, stripping the beds and tidying round before following a different lower path up the east coast passing the old granite quarries and descending to sea level for more seal watching. We had met members of the Friends of Lundy Volunteer Conservation group who had spent a varied week improving footpaths, clearing out the pond below Millcombe and repairing fences. They were from around the UK and sharing the island's bunkhouse accommodation with self catering but were also leaving that day so having watched the Oldenberg arrive at midday we all assembled on the quay for departure. Another steady crossing saw us back in Ilfracombe at 6 and we were soon back at Mullacott grateful for the heater as it had turned chilly.

A laundry stop in Ilfracombe preceeded our arrival in Okehampton at friends who moved there last year and live in a large sunny cottage surrounded by extensive gardens and acres of mixed woodland which we explored on a walk. Sue fed us well as always and on the Monday we all cycled down to the town to pick up the Granite Way which forms part of the Devon Coast to Coast we had ridden a few years back. It was fresh but dry as we rode down to Lydford with its gorge, church, castle and more importantly cosy pub where we enjoyed lunch : local venison for me. On our return we called at the excellent Pump and Pedal, a combined bike shop and cafe for very good hot chocolates before the hills home where again Sue fed us well and we played some entertaining table tennis.

After passing Dartmoor Prison and taking a rest up on the moor as we were both starting a cold we visited John at Crediton but kept our distance as we caught up on hedgehog and duck news.

Heading north at last we enjoyed the Fleet Air Arm Museum at RNAS Yeovilton on a very wet day where fortunately the numerous exhibits are under cover. The display of well known fixed and rotary winged aircraft from across history was very impressive and we enjoyed a talk about the development of Concorde beneath the wings of the 2nd working prototype which we could also explore. The mocked up flight deck and command centre of the aircraft carrier HMS Ark Royal was very well done and we left at the close after a successful day.

Arriving back at Pine Tree Farm Barbara was only able to have us for the one night so we serviced the bathroom and topped up the battery before moving on to Priddy the following day after a visit to Wells for a guided tour of the cathedral including the stunning Chapter Room.

Eastwater Farm was very peaceful but we were both feeling a bit rough so just took a short walk down the Velvet Bottom valley above Cheddar Gorge and then had lunch in the van before meeting up with friends in Portishead. The Aqua restaurant provided yet another excellent meal that evening and we met Barney the new (ish) labrador as well as checking out their van conversion.

The final leg of our journey was back to Sheffield via Dethick near Matlock to see the friends I had last met in Germany in late July. En route we diverted to look at another T4 Topaz near Kidderminster but whilst its interior was immaculate there were a few bodywork and engine concerns that raised a query. I'm not looking to change this one but it's always worth a look at options....

It was good to see Pete and Nina again in a rather soggy Derbyshire - we managed to get up on to the field for water and parked facing downhill for a sure getaway before walking over to their new location on hardstanding with water, power and a septic tank alongside a barn. Nina provided snacks and nibbles and we enjoyed the luxury of RV life. Sunday's plan to catch the open top bus again was thwarted as flooding had caused the service to be suspended but a day in Bakewell followed by a walk to Hassop station was more than adequate and we enjoyed a ride in their Dreamer D68.

So yesterday we returned to Sheffield where I spent the day cleaning and unloading the van ready for its MOT - I changed the fuel filter and swopped the now empty and redundant Calor Gas bottles for my 3 European Camping Gaz ones and then spent a few hours catching up with Penny.

Today the van passed its MOT with flying colours, Autohaus Dolby had sourced a VW starter motor which whilst more expensive should last as long as the one removed which was 22 years old, and also swopped the four rear caliper bolts that had been so tricky to remove a few weeks back.

Thus I am set to head off for mid and North Wales tomorrow with a month to myself only slightly marred by the prospect of two dental extractions in November before our fortnight in Cumbria.

CLICKY PICCY

Northern Delights

Keen as always to avoid Bank Holiday crowds we decided to stay fairly local and visit Hope Agricultural Show in the Peak District so drove to near Ladybower Reservoir and then cycled the last few miles overtaking long queues of stationary traffic. The show was excellent with a good range of displays and stalls as well as the usual horticulture and craft competition marquees.

 

A highlight in the main ring was a superb display of horsemanship with a guy riding two horses standing on their backs and controlling up to 6 others in a free flowing display of great skill and coordination. Later a display of vintage tractors, vehicles and finally the livestock competition winners rounded off a very enjoyable day.

Later that week I headed off to Dent station via York visiting my elderly aunt in her care home and very much counted my blessings as I pulled up to the remote spot high above Garsdale where two years ago we had stayed in the Snow Huts. To enjoy the Settle Carlisle line I decided to hop on a train down to Skipton and back just to enjoy the route and later enjoyed a quiet night with not even the overnight freight trains rumbling through due to strike action. I later meandered across to Penrith where friends had invited me for dinner and to overnight. It was good to catch up and as always I was keen to see his ever expanding model railway layout.

The Solway Aviation Museum north of Carlisle was well worth the visit, had a very reasonable admission price (£6) and provided a rare opportunity to climb in to the cockpit of a very well preserved Vulcan bomber. This sleek delta wing aircraft had carried our nuclear deterrent at the height of the Cold War but only engaged in combat missions during the Falklands conflict when flown via Ascension Island to bomb Port Stanley - refuelling and support meant that each mission used 1,000,000 gallons of fuel.......

 

Other aircraft on display included jets, survey aircraft and fighters with access encouraged to many. The various buildings housed displays relating to the Battle of Britain, Bomber Command and the Dambusters as well as Britain's ultimately unsuccessful participation in a nuclear weapon system known as Bluestreak tested at Woomera in Australia.

 

A lovely drive took me through Dumfries and Galloway to one of the 7Stanes mountain centres at Dalbeattie where under the excellent Stay the Night scheme run by Forest Scotland self contained vans can overnight for £7. There were 3 other vans in the large parking area and on a sunny evening I took myself off to test the easy going blue and green runs. This then set me up for the more challenging red route on the Sunday morning which I had pretty much to myself. Over exuberance saw me part company with the bike on a rocky descent leading to a decent grazed knee but otherwise it was a good ride with stunning views.

Moving on to Glentrool I tackled the 36 mile loop that passed near enough Newton Stewart to be worth diverting for refreshments before continuing through stunning scenery to return via a section of the Southern Upland Way passing White Laggan Bothy. I fitted in the blue loop afterwards but as overnighting wasn't permitted I dropped down to Garliestown for a great night tucked away on a Britstop behind the Harbour Inn which did excellent food.  During WW2 the large bay had been used to test various designs of the Mulberry Harbours, whilst today a few fishing boats still operate from the dock. The CAMHC site wanted £38 a night had I decided to stay there - an outrageous amount so I was more than happy to dine well at the pub who also allowed me to fill up with water.

 

Pulling up at Kirroughtree where I planned to stay overnight I set up on the large car park and enjoyed the red trail that climbed high before swooping and swerving back to the centre. After a quiet night I followed the blue route before moving on to a small aire south of Dumfries having taken the longer but more scenic coast road through Kirkbean. This community supported initiative at Glencaple on the banks of the Nith was perfect with a stylish cafe next door and a good pub across the road. A few other vans were lined up for the sunset and it was another peaceful night.

 

Yet another of the Stanes lay at Mabie where a red route took me past a beautiful marble sculpture before following a mixture of tracks and trails through the forest and around the hills.

My final trail centre was at the Forest of Ae but as I headed out I noticed a loose bolt in the chainring and then that two more had fallen out already so with a fair few miles ahead of me decided to abort the ride and instead enjoy a quiet evening in the sun with yet again and surprisingly, no midges.

After a cracking five days and ten trails in warm sunny weather I headed back towards England stopping at Longtown where the Bikeseven cycle shop took great trouble to find me replacement bolts - these were in fact pedal studs which combined with a small spanner of the right size soon did the trick.

My destination was a small CS site near Appleby that provided nothing more than a quiet field, water and a septic tank - perfect at £5/night and very convenient for parking at Appleby later, from where the following morning I caught the train down to Skipton, enjoyed an hour in the town and then met Mandy who had travelled via Leeds from Sheffield. We jumped off at Appleby and took a walk round the town admiring the charming collection of almshouses that provide supervised housing for widows and spinsters and enjoyed tea and cake in a quiet courtyard gallery.

 

 

 

Near Kirkby Stephen we enjoyed a section of the Northern Viaducts Walk before arriving mid evening back at Dent where we planned to stay two nights as on the Sunday the Flying Scotsman was due to pass through twice.

Saturday saw us enjoy a superb 30 mile ride along the Pennine Bridleway starting with a climb up the old Coal Road before turning south, crossing Cam Fell, dropping down to Horton in Ribblesdale and then climbing up on to the lower reaches of Ingleborough with the remarkable and extensive limestone pavements. The weather and views were superb and although I had done the same route two years ago it was still well worth the revisit and we were grateful for refreshments at the cafe in Faizor before dropping down to Settle for the return train home.

On Sunday morning a few people gathered on the bridge and platforms but having befriended the holiday makers in the Station House we walked down to the currently unoccupied Snow Huts for a great view of the iconic loco as it curved round from the jaws of Blea Moor tunnel. We mved on to Garsdale Head Station for a different view from Dandrymire Viaduct - during our wait I had a nose round an abandoned caravan in the station overflow car park only to set the damn thing off towards the tracks. I jumped out and it stopped moving to my great relief. Slightly behind schedule the Scotsman appeared heading south with the carriages full of happy customers and we moved on in absolute deluge through Mallerstang and back to the small site at  Brampton.

 

Monday was a little overcast and damp so we caught the train up to Carlisle and enjoyed the town centre, cathedral with its stunning Alhambra inspired blue ceiling and then toured Carlisle Castle and its military museum. Steak, wine and a bit of Monday quiz night telly ended a good day and we slept soundly being the only occupants.

Tuesday was settled enough to get out on the bikes for 52 miles up to Melmerby along quiet lanes, back via Brougham castle and a pub at Langwathby and then a final leg to Brampton once more with the line of the Pennine Hills as a backdrop to the east and the Lakeland Fells to the west.

Wednesday as hoped and forecast dawned bright and sunny so we moved on to park at Kirkland where a route up on to Cross Fell, the highest point on the Pennine Way started. An old bridleway wound slowly up to the higher fells and we continued on down to Greg's Hut a bothy renovated only last year that used to be miners accommodation during the working week. The standard of the work was top class and the bothy felt sturdy and fit for another hundred years in the exposed location. After lunch we continued up on to the summit of Cross Fell before returning via the Hanging Gardens of Mark Anthony which we failed to discover on the ground.

 

A small site near Penrith gave us a night on power as the heavens opened but Thursday dawned bright and sunny tempting us to park at Pooley Bridge and catch the Ullswater steamer down to Glenridding where lunch on the terrace of the Inn on the Lake was a real treat in the warm sunshine. 

We found a quiet pub with camping behind near Wigton and on a damp Friday carried on to a rain and windswept Silloth where one of us sat and read whilst the other took a tour of the town's highlights. The RNLI shop opened at 1 and was staffed by 3 jolly ladies who were tickled pink that we spent a fair bit on fund raising items for future gifts.

Finally to complete a very varied and entertaining time away we returned to the friends at Penrith for a final night enjoying an excellent meal once more and a comfy night on their drive.

 

Returning to Sheffield via York for another sobering care home visit was a steady enough journey - we had spent the morning at the Threlkeld Quarry and Mining Museum which was an absolute gem. Home to a large collection of vintage excavators reached by a short ride on a steam train we were absorbed by the sight of various machines tearing at a large bank of earth and rock with the main showpiece being a nearly 100 year old steam powered Ruston and Bucyrus 306 excavator that had been restored to working order after 50 years under water in a Bedfordshire Quarry whose lime stone waters had prevented rusting. The boiler even passed its safety inspection to operate at 80 psi with almost no work. This and similar heritage projects visited recently such as the Lancaster,Vulcan and S-C line were all inspiringly maintained and run by dedicated volunteers with a generosity and passion that is often under reported in mainstream media. During my time away I was hugely saddened by news of the earthquakes in Morocco and floods in Libya so hope to return to the former early next year and do what I can to support those who have lost so much.

Piccies here ------- take care all.

BACKING BRITAIN

A tough 55 mile ride from Llangurrig down to Rhayader, round the Elan Valley, on to Cwmystwyth, past The Arch and a return via two bothies left me tired but exhilarated, especially as now all 3 bothies have been found to be in good order. It was lovely to be back in Sheffield later that week and I took time to sort out all my maps and travel guides that I had been lugging around, probably for the last time as many of the guides are out of date and the internet provides more relevant information. Similarly my SatMap 1:25,000 maps cover most places as well as various cycling and walking apps. One of the Satmap Battery packs fell apart which just leaves me the one and a pack that will take 3 AAs if necessary, such a shame the company went under as the device has been one of my best ever purchases for outdoor pursuits.

 Mandy's lad and his girlfriend were dropped at the station at the start of their trip to Colombia and Central America after which we departed for a few days away in Lincolnshire staying initially at Binbrook after looking round the rather delightful Brigg. Three Romanian construction workers were in a caravan on the CL but otherwise it was very quiet and they were a friendly lot due to return home soon so in good spirits. We cycled 53 miles the next day down to Louth for market day where I sourced some antihistamines after almost swallowing a wasp and developing a ludicrous 'trout pout'. Pushing on to the coast near Donna Nook we failed to see the attraction of staying in, let alone purchasing, one of the statics that sit densely packed in along the coast. A highlight of the ride was an old deconsecrated church where you could almost feel the history in its poignant remains.

Similar emotions came to the fore at the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Museum at East Kirby where a team of dedicated and skilled restorers are working on a surviving Lancaster bomber. By chance it was due to taxi out around the airstrip twice that day and we were suitably impressed as the 4 Merlin engines fired up one by one before the immense airframe moved out on to the grass with a number of enthusiasts occupying the cockpit, gunnery positions and rear section. It was hugely impressive and whilst waiting for the second event after lunch we very much enjoyed the large number of displays relating to the history of the Lancaster, Bomber Command and of course the remarkable Dambusters story. Lunch in the NAAFI was another opportunity to support the restoration project after which we were again mesmerised by the sheer power and presence of 'Just Jane'.

The complex was a former military airfield and the various buildings held cameos and exhibitions relating to wartime life - perhaps the most moving relating to the fate of those shot down over enemy territory and assisted in safe passage by courageous locals who often experienced severe retribution for their actions. All in all it was a moving and fascinating place to visit with far too much there to be fully related here. We were also allowed to stay overnight in the peaceful grassy car park - hugely appreciated.

 

The following day we pulled in to the Lincoln P&R to catch the bus in to town and visit the stunning cathedral which had been closed on our last visit a few years ago. Whilst enjoying lunch in the courtyard cafe the Red Arrows shot past directly overhead - a great sight but too fast for photos.

Moving on we stayed in Dethick where the friends I met in Germany are based and met a mutual friend Barry who has just secured an Irish passport thus banishing his Brexit shenanigans once and for all. We were staying there to pick up some clothing ordered in at Bakewell and I also had a cunning plan up my sleeve. Warning Mandy that we mysteriously had to be outside The Chakra Lounge cafe for 11. 30, this was merely a ploy to prevent her realising that we were about to jump on the recently launched Peak Sightseer open topped bus that follows a one way figure of 8 circuit every half hour to Chatsworth, Baslow, Hassop and Ashford in the Water. For £6 a head you can jump on and off all day and the experience of travelling through the scenery high up and just missing the tree branches and tunnel arches is certainly one to go for. We stopped at Chatsworth for an hour but on our return to Bakewell forgot to signal the bus to stop so were quite happy to go round once more, this time on the top deck again but at the front under cover as the continuing poor summer was letting the side down again. The service is a credit to Stagecoach and Derbyshire County Council and I emailed them positive feedback, mentioning in particular the friendly drivers who seemed to be really enjoying the service.

Back in Sheffield a new Shurflo water pump was waiting - stupidly leaving the old one running for several hours in Czechia had done the leisure battery no good (replaced earlier) but I was aware that the old pump was running more noisily, less efficiently, was not holding the pressure and had a slight leak. Access to replace it meant removing all clothing etc. from the wardrobe, dismantling my free standing shelves and easing up the floor to gain access, being fully aware of how brittle 20 year old plastic has become. I took photos of the plumbing and electrical connections as I went but remarkably even after 20 years the replacement pump had identical water and power connections - and even the four mounting holes lined up. I had ordered a new in line pre strainer but was surprised at how little had accumulated in the old one after 20 years and in the 6 years of my ownership almost full time use with a shower every day. Screw fit connectors were soon in place, the wires attached and a test run confirmed that all was well with quieter running, no leaks and pressure maintained so the floor panel, shelves and contents could go back in. I left the old pump tucked away in a void as it would make a serviceable spare but I fully expect the new one to see me out!

 

Monday saw the delivery of new outside seating which we manoeuvred in to place on the balcony with the help of Lynn and Steve - it's a good job he's well over 6' tall whilst I packed up for another trip south including some bottles and kegs from Bradfield Brewery for a forthcoming BBQ.

We joined Penny, a colleague I trained with 45 years ago, and Yolande a contact from Portugal who had met Penny when we took Mum out there in 2014 after Dad's passing almost a decade ago now, for a good meal at Zara's in Crookes. Yolande like me has to contend with the new Sheffield Clean Air Zone and is loathe to scrap a perfectly good camper van (other than being a T5!) that is much newer than mine but still falls foul of the regs. To this end as Sheffield has inexplicably included the congestion reducing ring road in its zone I merely travel one junction futher up on the M1 and then drive through densely populated urban areas passing many schools, care homes and the local general hospital - what a ludicrous situation......

It appears that my friend in Portugal may have sold the campsite that has been my refuge for many Christmases over the last 15 years but that does give me other options for the forthcoming winter with Italy, Tunisia, Greece and Turkey looming large - watch this space. Anyway it was good to catch up and the following day I headed across rural Derbyshire via Buxton and then Stoke to catch up with my brother in Shropshire. We arranged to meet up on mountain bikes and I left for Brecon and another shambolic lumber around the badminton courts. Over at Sennybridge I joined Crad and Dawn with their son and his Czech fiancee for a good meal at their local - the farmer owned Shoemaker's Inn that has a new tennant landlord.It was good to see the happy couple and Leah was of course very familiar with places in her native country I had visited less than a month ago.

Up at Lower Chapel Jan and Ian were hosting the Hereford Caving Club 'Summer' BBQ so we spent Friday putting up a marquee, organising seating and planning the food. I also undertook a repair with fibreglass of the washroom toiletry cupboard as a leaking insect repellent had eaten right through the plastic floor, the repair is far stronger than the original and the fumes soon evaporated. Inclement weather caused a few issues re the marquee later that day but things eased off on the Saturday and we all enjoyed a memorable evening, due in no small part to Dan's ingenious 'cave jenga' that involved a steel IBC container frame and wooden poles that recreated the sorts of squeezes and bending that caving often requires. It was a brilliant evening so many thanks to Jan and Ian for all their hard work and hospitality. A mate from Frome was enjoying his new Wild Ax Pulsar - a definite consideration should I eventually have to change vehicles but as yet I have no intention of doing so and will adapt to the new regimes of CAZs, LEZs and the like.

On Sunday afternoon I cycled up to Moel Prysgau bothy for the first time in a year - clear felling across the river has changed things a bit for access from the 'top track' but at least a screen of Sitka spruce has been left to retain the bothy's seclusion. All was well there although with no bridge thanks to some idiots breaking and then burning it a while back the feet took a soaking.

After a quiet night in the hills I had planned to ride the Sustrans route from Tregaron to Aberystwyth but my brother rang asking to bring our planned ride forward by a day so we met at Nant Yr Arian Visitor Centre later that morning for a long overdue - 40 years - ride together on the Syfydrin Black run - 20 plus miles of mixed, remote, challenging but hugely rewarding Black level trail. We chatted to a guy in one hamlet who has almost finished rebuilding a shell of a cottage that I have been observing over the years, noticed a completely new and stylish new build and looked down on an old farmhouse that is also undergoing restoration with solar panels and what may well be a bunk house. Coffee and cake as the hundreds of red kites arrived for their daily feast of raw chicken saw us going our parting ways but not before I had a quick whizz on his emtb - very impressive but not for me yet as I still enjoy the buzz and the burn.

This changed for me the very next day as after a night at Glangwy campsite near Llangurrig I cycled over to the Hafren Forest, up the tracks towards the sources of the Wye and Severn and then encountered almost wintery conditions on the slopes of Plynlymmon as a I crossed to the Sweet Lamb motor racing circuit. Even the shepherds gathering sheep looked cheesed off as I shot down to the A44 and crossed over for a return to Nant Rhys bothy with the intention of locking all access gates. A long climb up to the hut had me drooling over power assistance but I will hold out for as long as poss. due to charging and weight considerations. The bothy had seen a visit from a fellow, and local, bothy stalwart whose regular visits combined with NRW's new padlocks and restricted key holders' policy seem to be keeping on top of bothy misuse.

Back at Glangwy I dealt with the loo, cleaned the washroom, washed most of the muck off the bike and prepared for an early start to Sheffield following morning. I had found out that the Calor depot at Worcester still had some 3.9kg Propane cylinders despite their unwelcome and unpopular withdrawal by Calor UK. As it was more or less en route to CAK tanks at Kenilworth I called in and had a good chat with the lad there - he reckons the company cannot make a profit on smaller cylinders but as they are a quarter of the price of the nearest equivalent Camping Gaz 907s they could change this by charging slightly more : Flogas seem able to supply an equivalent at a competitive price but have a short term cylinder shortage. In a corporate world where being green is foremost in company literature it again seems ludicrous that the withdrawn Calor cylinders will be scrapped whilst Flogas commission thousands of new almost identical cylinders, surely a safety check and a respray would be better all round. Anyway with luck I now have enough to see me through Autumn after which I will be back on CG for my winter trips.

At CAK I wanted a Thetford Freshen Up kit to give me a new loo seat as the old one has split - they should strengthen their design and I will use the remainder of the fibreglass kit to do just that. The spare cassette can sit quietly in store but the yellow cap has gone in the van as a spare as they are so easily lost down a poorly designed disposal point. I also picked up a new fresh water inlet point and a length of pipe before heading up to Sheffield and an empty house as Mandy is on an unexpected cycling holiday in Mull. 

Thus today I replaced the old fresh water inlet and leaking filling pipe - this plus a small overflow tube and the washroom sink waste pipe all exit the van through a tight space near the rear swing arm. It took some ingenuity and a hairdryer for heat to ease out the old pipes and replace the new plus a section of rigid waste pipe to join the new filler pipe to the existing run to the tank but eventually all was done and that concludes a long list of minor repairs and tweaks that with luck will set me up for Autumn in the UK and another longish trip through winter and in to 2024.

Before then there  is much to look forward to as I head to Dumfries and Galloway next week, then down to Wales and Devon for house sits via a meet up on the Mendips before our trip to Lundy in October. November sees MOTs and the traditional Langdale break before I head south.

Further pics here.....