The Nuts and Bolts of Van LIfe

So we've looked at selecting your van according to your budget and a carefully thought out approach to how, where, when and why you are going to use it.

You will recall my strong inclination to high top vans - look at these very basic calculations -

Van A : 2m wide x 2m high x 5m long = 20 cubic metres.

Van B : 2m wide x 2m high x 6m long = 24 cubic metres

Van C : 2m wide x 3m high x 5m long = 30 cubic metres

So : add a metre to the length on a low profile roof and you get an increase of 20% volume but still have back ache all day, add it to height and you get a 50% increase in volume with a more practical vehicle for occupying and manoeuvring. As pop tops generally slant you will add say 5 cubic metres when it's up but the high end space will be just air and out of reach and the low end tapers to less and less usable space and you don't have the advantages of storage, insulation or weather resistance of a fixed top.

Finally doors and windows : I prefer a full size unobstructed sliding side door as it allows use in a tight space, gives easier access and more importantly easier egress in the event of a fire or other emergency - so many vans now have a caravan sized door or the wide opening blocked by kitchen units. You cannot beat the feeling of lying in a warm bed with the door open to a memorable sunset or frosty dawn.

 

Having a rear tailgate is also preferable to my mind as it doubles up as a changing area, provides a shady area in hot sun (no need for a heavy expensive awning that needs retracting at the merest hint of wind) and is even the place for an al fresco shower if you have the portable kit or your onboard hose reaches. Again it might be that you can lie in bed looking out over the view - wonderful.

 

 

 

 

 Another more flexible option for an awning easily doable with a high top is a good tarp clipped to the roof and held aloft by your tailgate support poles and secured by guy ropes - not much to store and a tarp can have many other uses.

 

I have also found that tailgate mounted bike racks are sturdier than those attached to just one barn door and can carry more weight - your van struts may not hold the door aloft with this extra weight but the couple of sturdy old sectional tent poles (usable for your awning) will provide suitable props.

Whilst in this area and returning to previous themes a good bike rack on a tailgate, combined with a sturdy cover effectively creates the 'garage' that bigger vans aspire to promote. I store both bikes with both helmets locked on, the spare fuel can, track pump, folding table and two chairs beneath the cover. I use a long length of bungee cord to secure the cover even more firmly and prevent petty pilfering and have the hazard board necessary in much of Europe in situ - the pocket for this is a great place to keep a coiled water hose.

Anyway it's all about choice and for many casual users vans are about style, the 'scene' and so on - nowt wrong with that but when I see running bars, roof rails, chromed mirrors, bull bars, spoilers and the like I see unnecessary weight and expenditure and don't even mention lowering!!

 

Anyway on to other considerations and basically van life mirrors basic human existence with the same needs in the same order.

Air, Shelter, Water, Food, Security and Company which should all be linked to Sustainability.

These headings give the structure for the rest of this post.

AIR

Simple enough you might think but there are implications regarding van living.

Modern well designed vans will pay as much attention to ventilation as insulation but older or well used vans and many a self build will fall short.

Whilst it would be very hard to achieve in reality, a hermetically sealed van would of course prove fatal but it is possible to end up with quite a well sealed unit that could be dangerous. Gas is likely to feature in your van if only for cooking and needs careful thought in its use and storage - when burning it produces quite a surprising amount of water vapour on top of those boiling pans and kettles so good air circulation is important to keep your interior dry. Similarly LPG is heavier than air so can pool in unvented voids - use a proper sealed gas cupboard with plenty of drop outs. Cookers should not be used to heat up the van, although boiling (almost) the kettle for that first cuppa will take the edge off a frosty start. Vents for fridges or heaters should be kept clear and any grilles removed as necessary before use. A combined fire and carbon monoxide alarm, tested regularly is vital and at least one good sized fire extinguisher and a fire blanket should be in place.

The small dry powder extinguishers are not in my opinion big enough for van use (they also tend to settle when stored so should be shaken up regularly) and expiry dates noted. My preference is for one in the driving area to deal with an engine or dashboard fire and one near the cooking area -  often you cannot access front mounted kit when the seats are swivelled.

When cooking keep an eye on pans - they don't need to be bubbling away furiously, use lids and bring the kettle just to the boil to reduce steam and vapour. Washing up water produces a lot of steam - perhaps use site facilities or do it outside with a bowl. At night keep windows or roof vents slightly open as an average person will produce 500ml of water vapour overnight just by breathing.

Candles can give a nice atmosphere and do emit a surprising amount of heat - for many years I used a tray of tea lights floating in the sink but on reflection there were obvious safety and health considerations, but I was young and carefree : just carefree now although I guess a care element is approaching relentlessly

Wood burning stoves in a van are only likely to be of use in much larger vehicles than I am concerned with and come with a host of other considerations - plus benefits - but are outside my remit.

If you decide to use a portable generator ensure that its exhaust is discharging well away from any of your ventilation points, similarly you might run the engine for a period to warm things up, make sure your exhaust system is intact and well maintained.

Have your gas appliances checked and serviced regularly - the jets and thermal cutouts need to work properly, flues cleaned, all pipes should be secure, flexible hoses changed before their use by date and any regulators or isolation taps working properly. I will look at gas again later with regard to practicality as opposed to safety.

Finally don't overlook the gasses produced by 12v batteries charging - if yours is tucked away in an internal cupboard make sure the vent tube is in situ and discharging externally and keep flames away.

 

SHELTER

Obviously any van will provide a degree of shelter from the elements but again there are factors to consider. Larger  vans will be harder to heat although the degree of insulation will help. Plenty of other blogs deal with insulation for converters - one tip I would provide : if possible in the floor, both sides and even the roof incorporate a small duct running full length and leave a drawstring secured through it so should you ever need to run in additional pipes, cables or wires (and you will!) it should be far easier.

Stealth vans often minimise the number of windows but for me a van is to live in and enjoy and I spend time in places I want to look out on. Double glazed perspex windows with integral blinds are the gold standard but whilst I have two in the high top all the others are the standard single glazed panel van windows. However good quality thermal screens make a huge difference and are available for many specific makes and models - otherwise cut up camping roll mats to fit snugly, packets of suckers available from www.justkampers.com, and consider heavy duty lined curtains. I've recently added squares of mat to fit the two roof vents as well but do be aware of earlier thoughts on ventilation especially when using gas or candles. Any clothing acts as insulation if in cupboards as does bedding perhaps in overcab storage so leave it all as plumped up as possible in cold weather - my good down jackets are left puffed up when not in use - better for them and good insulators. Keeping empty spaces to a minimum helps and although as almost everything I own is here in the van I rarely have space to fill a few extra loo rolls or packets of cereal can fill cupboard voids without a huge weight penalty. I tend to shut off the bathroom area and just heat the living space until mid evening and have put an extra layer of cheap 'conference' carpet on the floor which is tough, hard wearing, easy to clean and can be removed and replaced as needed. 

Simple measures like an extra layer, thermal socks and even a beanie all help but at the end of the day in cold weather I am quite happy to spend out on heating either by hook up on sites or the built in heater I have - more later. For my 30 cubic metres of van a 750/1500w fan heater is more than sufficient and so far the compact Kampa Diddy Portable heater selling for around £20 seems to run reliably hour after hour. It has a tilt switch so is safe enough and doesn't have a radiant glow that whilst giving a nice evening ambience gives you a blinding headache at night if you try to sleep. The ultra compact cable free heaters like the Russell Hobbs RHPH2001 at 500w are a very neat option and incorporate timers, thermostats and often even a remote. Also blown air will help demist windows etc, dry out walking gear and even give you hot water if you direct it over a drinks bottle for an hour or two. Oil filled heaters are safe but usually bulkier. Bear in mind that whilst UK sites are gearing up to our ever increasing demand for power many sites abroad have a restricted supply and site owners don't take kindly to being summonsed - quick tip, keep a cabinet key in the tool box and you might be able to reset your pillar MCB/RCD yourself but you didn't hear that from me. Incidentally we were once on a secured but unmanned aire near Santander but couldn't get the barrier to lift on departure - close inspection of the  pillar revealed a manual over ride using said key : search www.screwfix.com, £2 for a basic one or considerably more for the full monty. Be aware that foreign campsites' electricity provision may not reach UK standards.

Keep the hot drinks coming in colder weather, move about regularly and perhaps have friends in - the average human gives out 100w of heat at rest so a group in a van will soon warm it up but remember that water vapour....

Your 3 way fridge running on gas will also put a little warmth in the van, they use very little gas - see later .

An excellent investment is a simple electric blanket - 12v versions are available but a basic single bed 240v blanket is usually rated at 40 watts so can be run off a small plug in inverter without too much detriment to the leisure battery.

 

 

Consider where you park up as wind chill is a significant issue so find a sheltered spot, possibly under trees if it's not raining or too stormy - far less chance of a frost or if you are small shelter between the big boys!

 

Again my preference for a high top van is underlined by wind, rain and snow - pop tops are great for 2/3 season use especially if it's scorching but driving rain can challenge even the best single skin fabrics and my pop top roof once lowered quietly overnight under the weight of settling snow. Strong winds exacerbate the situation and may cause damage - a high top may rock a bit but as most of the weight is low down - engine, gearbox, fuel tank, water tank, gas bottles etc they are very stable although this stability decreases with the larger vans that have great slab sides. Heavy rain can be noisy on any roof but relax - you are at least dry. Factory high tops are the most watertight but a good fibreglass roof should be OK but do check the seals around roof vents, TV aerials, solar panel cable entry points and so on are intact - water has a habit of reappearing a long and often illogical way from where it is entering.

Insulation works both ways so a well insulated van should be easier to keep cool and this is where your choice of windows and roof vents is important. Plenty of windows should open ideally opposite each other to promote cross flow but effective fly screens will be necessary - do not underestimate the Scottish midge  or the New Zealand black fly. A high top van will provide more shade opportunities especially if you have your DIY tarp awning. A linked consideration is that if you have fixed solar panels on your roof you will have to choose between solar gain and shady protection - hence my preference for a fold away panel with a decent cable that can be situated as appropriate - of which more later.

WATER and waste.

Water is heavy - a lot of water is a lot of heavy. We need to drink around 5 litres per day (but often don't) and use more for cooking, washing and flushing. An average UK household uses 350 litres per day or 140 litres per individual. This is not practical for van life but of course as with most of the developing world we can reduce this.

Using campsite facilities etc does reduce the onboard usage but I am focusing on off grid living as far as is possible so offer the following.

Most importantly do drink as much as you should - that is not where to make savings - but ensure that your tanks and pipes are clean - on a newly acquired van consider flushing through with Miltons or similar, change or service any filtration systems, ensure filler caps are clean, clearly labelled and preferably lockable - incidentally if these caps end up stiff then like your blade seal in the toilet cassette lubricate with a little olive oil.

Cassette toilets use far less water than domestic lavatories and may incorporate a separate flush tank. - I use a combined top, bottom and waste tank concentrated liquid from Olpro but use biological laundry tablets in the cassette - as they are septic tank friendly, cheap as chips and very compact to store - plus you've got them for the laundrettes who often dispense powder at a price not far off that of the finest Colombian Marching Powder - apparently.

 

A good shower head will still do the job even with the possibly lower pressure of a van system - incidentally if there is a long pipe length between heater and head fill a container with that first few litres of cool water rather than let it go to waste. Short hot showers are the order of the day - perhaps indulge once a week on a campsite especially if there's a lot of hair washing to be done - not my most urgent consideration these days...

 

 

 

 

You are likely to do your laundry at a machine elsewhere and even the simple stuff like using a mug rather than running a tap for teeth cleaning will make a big difference. When cooking use any hot water from draining veg to rinse off the worst of any plates or pans that will then get a proper wash and don't overfill those pans in the first place. Use foil to line grills and baking trays to reduce the need to wash up, adopt continental habits of using the same cutlery for different courses and a slice of bread to wipe plates as clean as possible. I also tend to wash up once a day saving on gas and water.

 

 

 

So how much to carry - I would say for a couple around 70 -100 litres would be about right - any more and you may well be compromising your MTPLM (Maximum Technically Permissible Laden Mass) as that is included - and amounts to effectively an extra passenger. The more you carry the less careful you tend to be and a still substantial amount of water sloshing about in a partially empty tank can affect vehicle handling. Inboard tanks are infinitely preferable but I've had to settle for a centrally mounted underslung tank that helps with handling but has affected ground clearance and proved so far to be difficult to insulate - given my 5.2m van length inboard location would have been difficult. A good modern van will have winterised tanks - insulated and possibly even heated.

 

 

So the 77 litres I have will, with care, last me about 5/6 days including a daily shower, all meals cooked, washing up, personal care and drinking water, for two people this drops to around 4/5 days. The Hozelock Pico Hose Pipe Reel at 10m in length with a quarter inch bore is ideal for filling, includes a spray nozzle useful for washing your van, bike, dog or muddy gear and costs around £30. It is very compact has a five year guarantee and unlike lay flat hoses or the coiled type will not kink whatever the pressure. A 10 litre collapsible bucket and funnel add to filling options and I also keep a 12v submersible water pump that would draw water from a suitable source.

Incidentally my Thetford C2 has an integral 15 litre flush tank which lasts about a fortnight and within reason doesn't of course need drinking quality water. The cassette holds around 20 litres and is easily removed for emptying. If you buy an older van and are a bit squeamish Thetford do a freshen up kit that includes a new toilet seat and lid and a whole new cassette - upgraded these days to include wheels and a towing handle - very welcome as a full one can be quite heavy to transport to the CDP. Again some vans now have rather smaller cassettes but of course these will need emptying more frequently.

I will return to this later but PLEASE deal with your waste responsibly - thoughtless, selfish toiletting (and littering) habits are the biggest threat to off grid living.

Grey water tanks are often overlooked but letting this out on your pitch is unfair on the next guys and environmentally unsound out in the wild. Grey water tanks will not need to be as large as the fresh water but should be within 10% and again underslung helps with handling. They are not as prone to freezing as the contents will be contaminated but if possible insulate them and the pipes as a frozen outlet is a real pain. Converters use pipes far narrower than domestic plumbing so be good at avoiding food waste going down the plug, minimise fats going the same way and keep a cheap plunger somewhere - you could store your kitchen or loo roll on it, suckered to a convenient point....

FOOD

With planning it is possible to take several weeks of food away which if you are heading to say Scandinavia is a big consideration but surely part of the joy of travel is sourcing and enjoying local food - I once met a couple in a large van who had prepared 200 frozen meals at home to avoid that foreign muck!

Dried food in tight lidded containers is recommended - whilst vans can be fairly well sealed mice (at best) are attracted by the warmth of a van and food crumbs if parked up for more than the odd night and ants will soon find their way to any sugary source of nutrition. Circles of ant powder around all wheels will deter them and good practice will deter rodents. In New Zealand I had mice eat their way through a bulkhead wiring grommet (fortunately not damaging the loom) and running behind panels to chew on the wooden spatula which despite washing still retained the taste of spag bol - I now use plastic utensils.

They had nested under the battery tray whilst I was parked up and were only defeated with traps and bait - nowadays if I leave the van anywhere for a period of time I place bait in the engine compartment as well as the interior.

I keep dried milk as a back up, a litre of water and some dried meals in case an unexpected overnight stay arises but not tins as they are bulkier and heavier but otherwise eat fresh local produce as far as possible. Some basic herbs, spices and other condiments are worth having and although you are likely to have just the two burners and possibly a grill it is possible to eat well. I generally cook twice a day especially in winter as the heat is always useful but only wash up once as per water saving measures earlier. Similarly I would cook extra spuds, rice or pasta to save gas using the excess in salads etc. Noodles and couscous use the least gas and adding your veg to the carbs pan as appropriate makes sense.

When using my grill I keep pots simmering above it, use lids to reduce water vapour - I usually open the roof vents when cooking to dissipate steam and again tend to grill more than just the planned meal using the cold for salads etc. I have a single electric ring rated at 1000w for when on hook up and an electric travel kettle both of which could run off my small genny (not simultaneously) and which won't compromise most hook up points.

Keeping food fresh is a consideration and a fridge essential. For occasional use a powered cool box is of use but a fridge will be more effective long term so you have a choice of absorption or compressor options. I find the 3 way absorption fridge to be the best and have the standard 60 litre model found in many vans and caravans. It has auto ignition, thermostats for the gas and 240v power sources and will run off the alternator when travelling. Only one source of power should be used at a time and gas consumption is very low - this and most other modern appliances will run on either propane at 37mb or butane at 28mb with the appropriate regulator. These fridges will not, and should not, run for long, if at all on your leisure battery, whereas the compressor fridges (often seen nowadays as they are easier to install avoiding the need for vents and drop outs) will run off a healthy leisure battery backed up by a good solar installation. Bear in mind that if this is fixed to your roof you may have to park in full sun to get the benefit. For UK use a main brand like Calor is most widely available and I have space for two 3.9kg bottles with cost currently ranging between £13 and £23 per exchange. If your local recycling centre is friendly enough you may be able to avoid the initial additional cost of your cylinders. Each cylinder lasts me 2/3 weeks depending largely on the numbers showering - fridge and cooking usage staying relatively constant - so about a pound a day. Bear in mind that in remoter parts of Scotland at busier times exchange cylinders are on a par with rocking horse manure and less popular brands may be even harder to source. The other option is Campingaz, usually the blue butane 907 cylinders that hold 2.75 kg of gas and again are exchanged but these are an expensive option in the UK at around £35 per exchange so 3 times the price - incidentally a nose round the back of a large Calor plant revealed that they fill Campingaz cylinders discreetly out of sight (presumably under contract) which strikes me as sharp practice at best.

 

Whilst in the UK I stick with Calor but for longer trips abroad switch to Campingaz which is widely available in much of Europe but not for example Greece or much of Eastern Europe and usually much cheaper than the UK especially in Spain. Italy's cylinders have a different logo and labelling scheme and so despite being Campingaz can be harder to exchange in France, especially as you get further from border areas. Both Calor (for the UK only) and Campingaz (pan European) have useful store locator websites at www.calor.co.uk and www.campingaz.com

Incidentally in Morocco they use cylinders compatible with 28mb Campingaz regulators but don't exchange your shiny EU cylinder as the battered often green relic won't be accepted back in the EU. As a full cylinder is only a couple of quid and refills around 80p you will be happy as a pig in **** anyway, just be aware that the multitude of colours are sometimes brand specific but Total (as in the petrol chain) seems commonest.

The final consideration over LPG choice is the ability to cope with low temperatures which is where propane is the clear winner.

Refillable cylinders from a company like Gaslow are a consideration despite high initial costs which would be recouped in due course but I have limited space to install them and not every country is comfortable with the refilling process - this applies to permanently mounted LPG tanks, as does the space consideration for me.

Finally a word of warning - treat gas with respect and steer clear of the online videos suggesting that you can refill cylinders yourself. The guys who do so may have more knowledge than you but probably less fingers. 

SECURITY

An important subject that deserves consideration - you will have a lot of capital invested in your van and a concentration of expensive gadgets and possessions.

Specific camper/motorhome insurance may well cover additional contents but will have strict requirements that all doors and windows should be secured  - read your small print. Often if you have left your vehicle to return home the cover will not apply whilst you are not in the same country as your vehicle.

My only experience of a theft was ironically whilst in supposedly secure airport parking at Milan - the company insisted on retaining the keys, moved the van off site and clearly staged a break in as items they stole could not be seen unless the deadlocked doors were open. They denied any knowledge or responsibility and over £1000 of equipment was stolen - choose a parking option where you keep the keys and the promised guard and CCTV actually exist. A great option in Lisbon was a company that used a multi storey car park where I secured a roof top space well away from 2 and 4 legged vermin and kept the keys. I even saw the van from my seat as we flew over the airport perimeter - very reassuring.

Regarding day to day concerns choose your parking carefully, a few quid in a monitored option far off sets the misery of dealing with broken windows, damaged bodywork or trim and replacing items - all possibly being dealt with in a foreign language and at great inconvenience. Set all your alarms, fit a highly visible steering lock, close all blinds, curtains or screens and perhaps leave a portable radio playing quietly. If you have bikes on the back perhaps reverse up close to a wall, similarly your sliding door could be tight to a wall as front doors can be harder to use as access and escape routes. I often leave a pair of shoes outside and have heard of people leaving heavy duty dog leads and a water bowl outside even if dogless. Unfortunately well meaning people in hot weather may jump in to rescue mode if they can't arouse the non existent dog - embarrassing all round....

It is also possible to fit additional external locks to vehicles or internal security measures such as straps linking the front doors together but windows and the huge skylights found on many vans are still vulnerable. A clever DIY modification might be to fit something like the Discarnect Battery Master Switch from www.richbrook.co.uk which allows you to disconnect the earth lead from your main battery whilst a small fusible link keeps essential monitoring equipment and the alarm running but blows if attempts are made to start the engine.

I try to take all expensive gadgets with me  - most are small and useful anyway leaving the thieves with little to take, but hide what you have to leave behind - buried in clothing or perhaps in those storage areas that aren't immediately obvious. Take photos of everything, including serial numbers, do the same for all your cards, travel documents, vehicle and driving documents, insurance policies (maybe downloaded), health policies and put the lot on a well hidden USB stick along with a list of contact numbers for all the above. My insurance company have issued a bottle of liquid microdots to be applied to all valuables and companies like www.selectadna.co.uk do kits for possessions, bikes or vehicles - worth a look. I have hidden a spare set of keys externally - real peace of mind, after all the spare set are no use at home, or make sure a responsible member of your party has the spare set. Ideally get a third set cut and if necessary programmed and ensure that they work - when I shipped the van out to NZ I discovered at the last moment that the 3rd set cut for the shipping company had not been programmed correctly and whilst they opened the doors they would not overcome the immobiliser.

 

 

Keeping your vehicle clean is less likely to attract attention from the forces of law and order but something big and shiny is a magnet to the light fingered so perhaps a finely tuned travel patina is a consideration. Again in Morocco which (as anywhere apart from the largest cities) is a very safe country there is usually a parking gardien who will keep an eye on your vehicle : good practice and a great way to engage with someone with local knowledge.

 

 

 

 

 

I keep a 'mugging' wallet on the dash with a small amount of local currency, old bank cards from long dormant accounts and a driving licence from an old address plus a broken smartphone to hand over. Thefts are often reported from overnight parking spots on motorways near larger cities across Europe so perhaps plan your journeys to stay elsewhere but basically if in doubt don't stay anywhere that looks suspicious - broken glass on the floor, poor lighting and 'just a feeling'.... I always leave the van in as ready a condition to get away as possible if it does feel dodgy ie facing outwards, nothing stored outside, keys handy, thermal screens off and everything stowed away in departure mode inside. You might even consider putting the nearest police station in your sat nav... on this note when setting up a new device it is good practice to put your neighbouring street in as home, after all you should recognise it and the thief will not be able to phone a friend and advise them that 23 Acacia Avenue's occupants are en vacances.

Think through your safety strategy (as you should practice a fire drill, trying out escape routes, location and accessibility of fire fighting kit, especially in the dark) and consider a grab bag containing all your most essential things plus a good torch and whistle to raise the alarm. I could if necessary retreat in to the washroom where a couple of defensive items are stored, two best not discussed but also an air horn, powerful strobe torch and an aerosol deodorant - both to quell the stench of fear but more usefully to spray in to the eyes. In reality these items should be a last resort as basically hand over what they want and live to fight another day - most things can be replaced - concentrate your energies on noting their appearance, accents, clothing, transport details, direction of escape and the like.

 

Right that's a lot to absorb and whilst I have referred to sustainability at times I will return to this theme in the next post which will look at the daily and more long term practicalities of van life covering such areas as off grid living, camping options, what you need on board (and perhaps more importantly) what you don't  

Basically 

Small is Beautiful

and

KISS - Keep It Simple (and) Sustainable

 

 

SO WHAT DO I KNOW ...................

 

 

As winter sets in we are all faced with longer evenings perhaps exacerbated by various restrictions beyond our control and as a long term vanner I am no exception to the challenges (but also opportunities) this presents.

As regular readers will know I generally head south in winter where the days might be warmer but the nights can often be colder and the hours of daylight not hugely different, although if like me you are not a huge fan of the rain usable hours can be much greater.

However events have over the years occasionally conspired either to prevent me from getting away or necessitated a premature return but as with any challenge in life there are lessons to be learned and opportunities taken - my recent trips to the Outer Hebrides and South East England described in recent blogs are a testament to this.

Now though I am looking at a few months in the UK with unpredictable limitations but fairly predictable wind and rain - plus I hope some of those precious cold clear spells that make winter a very special time.

I earlier described myself as a long term vanner which to date means living largely in a van since selling up a smallholding in the Brecon Beacons in 2005 and since 2011 living what is to all intents and purposes almost full time on the road. In reality I do spend time in other settings - a combination of hotel treats, house sitting, a very precious fortnight in Cumbria each year and occasional nights in bothies, under canvas, bivvying or hostelling. Thus I do not have the status of full time that insurance companies tend to steer clear of and remain UK domiciled for tax, health care and financial proceedings - of which more later.

 Anyway to the Blog Title - WHAT DO I KNOW.........

Well after so many years OTR quite a bit thank you, mostly shaped by my own experiences but also knowledge gained from chatting with and observing others, reading blogs, watching vlogs and even reading books - how quaint.

 So with cosy evenings to fill and having passed a significant birthday in March - roll on 40, I feel I should offer my thoughts, hints, tips, opinions and warnings to the many people intrigued by if not actually contemplating a similar approach to life.

It has been my pleasure and privilege to speak at and listen to many excellent and occasionally well polished presentations at the annual Horizons Unlimited  events in the UK and abroad - sadly unable to take place this year so if you were there some of the following may be familiar.

    GET ON WITH IT........

OK.  There is a lot to cover but for now I will look at vehicle choice - if you are contemplating a vehicle read on but even if you already have one in your possession read on too and feel free to challenge me, add to the discussion and share your experiences...

 

Budget is a good starting place as it may be fixed, limited or uncertain and straight away we find the nub of the problem - everyone's is different and may, indeed should, include an element of costs beyond the initial purchase as there will almost certainly be things you will want to do or add to the vehicle you find to make it just right for you.

And that I believe should be your starting point - it is for you, it may well become your home so every irritation or defect will face you every day, similarly if something does the job well and makes daily life even better then you will have no regrets.

So take your time and really look at what you want your van for : when you will want to use it, where you hope to travel, whether or not you have access to another vehicle, what are your hobbies and interests, what possessions you cannot do without and so on.

Also consider your ability (or just willingness) to deal with any issues that might arise either on the mechanical side or the habitation side.

Unless you really do intend to cross the Ghobi Desert or are a winter sports enthusiast (seriously consider winter tyres, chains or LSD - the diff not the drug- for when you need them) then AWD adds to initial and running costs, mechanical complexity, weight and may limit the size of underslung water and waste tanks. I met a couple in Morocco in a Unimog with a Unimog trailer a few years ago and he estimated tyre wear was 20p/mile and the guys in the expedition trucks struggle (as in fact do most motorhomes) with the narrow lanes of say Cornwall or the Vercors. Use your van to get near to these places but then your legs, wheels or public transport to explore them - you will be fitter, the place nicer and the local economy more sustainable.

Height is an oft overlooked factor re tunnels and bridges, a high vehicle costs more on the ferries and French peage network, can limit access to carparks in city centres or be a physical issue on smaller ferries.

 Similarly length as despite (sometimes because of) Sat Nav everyone will have to do a U turn at some point and even with reversing cameras it can be a stressful experience in something that you are heavily invested in - and want to sleep in that night!.

Hump back bridges, ferry ramps, tight bends and ever shrinking supermarket spaces should lead you to as short a vehicle as possible - bearing in mind that you may also want a bike or scooter on the back adding to the length of your rig and often capable of misleading your camera or sensors.

 

Personally I am a convert to diesel for many reasons - the generally improved MPG, lower price especially abroad and better availability in rural areas - although I appreciate modern petrol engines are squeezing quarts out of pint pots - and the relative simplicity and longevity of the diesel design - 500,000 HGVs in the UK alone must be right.....

Yes there are emission considerations but modern diesels are much improved and whilst we may be denied these choices within a decade I am sticking with it - for another very important reason to be discussed later. Cities that are banning diesels in their centres usually have excellent P&R facilities (3 cheers Canterbury), or as I often do, park or camp cheaply in a nearby regional town or village, hop on the bus or train, or cycle in as often the most environmentally conscious cities have the better provision for two wheeled travel and it gives you a handy way to flit between the various attractions.

I also feel diesel is a far safer fuel to be sitting on top of in the event of a shunt, when carrying spare cans and the engines are less prone to failure in wet conditions. As regards longevity my old Volkswagen T4 Short Wheel Base van had covered 345,000 miles on the original engine with no attention to the mechanics other than a new fuel pump operating spindle and was maintained mostly on the road by myself - a self taught grease monkey. 40 oil and filter changes from Norway to Christchurch (NZ not Dorset) over 12 years were I think a major factor in this - every 6000 miles plus air and diesel filters every 12,000. I am not a fan of these long life oils and whilst the current bus is every 10k miles and annoyingly due to the location of the filter impractical without a ramp I stick to it religiously and do the air and diesel filters myself every 10k miles as this combined with a premium diesel such as BP Ultimate or Shell V Power seems to have avoided injector issues. This fuel is also a consideration in another area - see later.

OK one downside - my small portable generator runs on unleaded so my spare can has petrol in it but over the years I have learnt never to go less than a quarter tank of full and there is now another consideration on this matter - see later. Generally I keep the tank full as there is less chance of condensation putting moisture in the filter and whilst there is a penalty in lugging 80kg of fuel around I feel the range of 600-650 miles is well worth having in reserve - something I know the adventure motorcyclists I have met envy and something that was a game changer in the Oz Outback.

 I do hope the Tesla Camper will match that.

Anyway back to the vehicle basics.

Again depending on your plans global availability of parts, brands familiar to mechanics in far flung places, tyres of an easily sourced size and the availability of dealers should you have a warranty to protect must be a consideration - the latter also applies to your conversion as many warranties require annual damp ingress surveys and habitation checks (an important safety issue anyway and ironically probably more important in a less used van).

An imported European conversion may use parts hard and/or expensive to source in the UK and also bear in mind that even some top notch conversions such as the VW California leave the main entry door on the dodgy side. Also the Europeans don't seem to like bacon or toast - surprisingly few have a grill - outrageous.

Good friends based in the UK elected to buy a LHD van as they travel mostly in Europe - a sound decision and worthy of consideration.

For me its RHD as that was the only option and very much a minor consideration despite extensive European mileage : I'm never in a hurry so rarely need to overtake and if the proverbial did hit the fan the suicide seat is usually empty.

So still focussing on the vehicle and mindful of the huge range of options here are some basics IMHO

 1) If you are going to do anything more than odd weekends and a couple of summer weeks out and about then get a high top van FULL STOP. This a far more important concern than the length for the following reasons - practicality when cooking, moving about, washing etc, storage, warmth and weather proofing. My good old T4 had a pop top for the first 6 years including two years full time in Oz and NZ, great for keeping cool but not so good in Tasmania's high country or en route through a wintry Europe to get to Southern Europe.

The fabrics do eventually deteriorate (even without the unwarranted assistance of a possum), need drying out if wet, can be noisy in high winds and need to be folded away carefully. Also whilst you can get roof racks to fit the actual elevating section I doubt it would be practical for say two heavy kayaks and having to offload the rack every time would be irksome and possibly an opportunity for theft.

 Even that quick coffee en route is a joy in a high top and the times I have been unable to access places have been very few (0 cheers for Derby P&R that has a 2.2m barrier).

Incidentally on the old van I changed to a high roof and noticed no difference in fuel consumption as the bikes were then beneath the roof line reducing wind resistance and turbulence so that bike covers last far longer (3 cheers www.bagsandcoversdirect.co.uk ).

 

 

As mentioned earlier toll motorways can be more expensive - take the road less travelled and relax - and on ferries length often counts for more than height although there may be less choice at busy times for overheight vehicles - incidentally quick tip : if possible have a fold up bike rack and put the bikes inside for the crossing to reduce your overall length. Be warned that many companies use manufacturer's databases and ANPR ( great for speedy ticketless booking) and will know the true length of your vehicle - be fair or it might cost you quite a surcharge or even lose your sailing.

2) So you've gone diesel, high, 2WD what about length?

I see absolutely no point in a fixed bed on anything other than top end luxury rigs as the wasted space is just being dragged around. You can't store stuff on it if you want to go to bed later on, very few of the so called garages beneath will take bicycles etc. Many are elevated to try and improve this storage leaving limited headroom and over cab beds whilst fun for kids often require gymnastic skills to access.

A well designed conversion will have seating that makes up a bed in minutes with minimal infill cushions, struts, boards or other irritations. Ideally look for flexibility as it should be possible to have one or two singles or a good double which should avoid any misunderstandings if you take your best mate away for the weekend for a few beers. Incidentally a blog later on will deal with space saving ideas but here's one - for the last 15 years I have used two down 4 season bags zipped together inside a duvet cover with a fitted sheet that can all be rolled up in to a very tight bundle in seconds. These quality bags are then available for backpacking trips with silk liners and have never been washed and look (and smell) as good as new. The less than five minutes it takes to make and break the bed each day is a small price to pay for having a van that is only 5.2m or 17' long - hugely practical as my all day every day vehicle.

Beware the  quirks of converters - my van was marketed as a four berth but only had belted seats for three. Also those kids beds in the roof - when they grow out of their shoes it's bad enough but might they soon outgrow that cute little roofspace, then what?

 

 

 

3) I am aware that budget is a major consideration but again consider how and where you are intending to use your van, how you feel about wild camping and the costs of campsites these days.

A 'full timer' could easily run up a bill of over £7000 per annum if using a site every night, even in Europe so a few quid spent at the outset to reduce this might be an investment. Sadly due to thoughtless and selfish behaviour by people new, and even worse, old to vanning I think our already limited opportunities to camp off grid will be futher reduced but it is still possible and can provide some of the best experiences. Combine this with the ongoing closure of many public facilities, an understandable reluctance to use shared facilities even on sites as a result of Covid and the convenience (ha ha) of an onboard facility I would certainly say definitely have at least a portapotti although consider how close you are (or in fact want to be) when your significant other needs to open that door in the wee or worse small hours.

Again having managed for the first 12 years with neither loo nor shower I wouldn't be without either now and the independence is probably saving me £50 - £100 a week on site fees so that investment would soon be repaid.

Downsides are of course more water and gas used and the need to deal with waste roughly weekly but as I tend to take one night a week on site for other reasons - see later - this is not a problem.

4) Width varies - I am under 2.2m (the van that is) so rarely face issues and a sliding side door means you can enter or leave even in a tight spot  but generally bigger and longer will mean wider and those fancy mirrors are a fortune to replace. Again transverse fixed beds will mean a wider vehicle so avoid!

5) Ground clearance is one of the most overlooked considerations and of significance, particularly if you want to get off the beaten track. Again vehicle length will affect grounding, AWD  vehicles may have raised suspension but steps, underslung gas and water tanks, flimsy drainage valves and waste pipes can all add to the issue - check carefully what is there and how it might be damaged.

Anyway that's enough to be going on with - next time more factors to consider with the actual conversion and habitation options.

 

 

SOUTH BY SOUTH EAST

After the highly successful trip to the Outer Hebrides we returned south and I then headed to my base near Sennybridge to change maps and clothing in anticipation of cooler weather.

I headed across to Bristol for a catch up with friends before briefly dropping in to Frome to plan the walks and rides for the forthcoming weekend with Pete.

Finally I headed to the area known loosely as Cranborne Chase and parked up at the Cashmoor Inn that allowed overnight stays, found via the Park4Night app.

 After a quiet night I set off on the bike for a day of exploring an area unknown to me despite having lived within an hour for three years whilst training forty years ago and then in Bristol for ten years again little over an hour away. Following numerous tracks, trails bridle paths, RUPPS and BOATS I stitched together a very enjoyable ride including the impressive Badbury Rings hillfort and the old WW2 airfield at Tarrant Rushton then heading towards Salisbury before returning along Ackling Dyke, an old Roman road, for a second night at the pub.

A good walk the following day saw me passing through the Rushmore Park Estate at Tollard Royal and checking out the Win Green parking area for an overnight with the guys from Bristol before moving on to another P4N stop at the Rainbow on the lake at Steeple Langford

I'd forgotten a water hose so nipped in to Wilton garden centre for a very useful compact 10m hosereel that uses a microbore pipe that will not kink unlike lay flat and collapsible hoses. In Salisbury I went to the Tesco store to book a flu jab as my GP in Brecon had run out, picked up some touch up paint and bumper stops to prevent bike handlebars catching the tailgate paintwork and then headed back to Win Green to meet Pete in time for a walk back through Rushmore again. Sunny weather and autumn colours combined with extensive views to make for a grand afternoon.

After dusk Nick and Bill arrived for the night and we walked out to the trig point for superb star gazing and the longest shooting star any of us had ever seen.

 

Win Green

 The following morning we set off along the Ox Drove track towards Salisbury, added a loop towards Downton and then cut back past Salisbury race course for a ridge track all the way back to the start. There is a vast choice of tracks in the area and I will certainly be back to explore further.

Nick and Bill headed home leaving Pete and I to enjoy another quiet night before on the Sunday  walking from Bradbury Rings and eventually moving on to a small certificated site for the night as I was in need of water and hook up. The simple field based site amongst woodland was idyllic and allowed us to start a ride in to the New Forest on the Monday without moving the vans. Pigs were hoovering up the acorns on the roadside edges as we crossed heathland, deciduous woodland, some coniferous plantations and various trails in yet another area that I will return to in the near future.

On Tuesday I had booked to visit the Army Flying Museum at Middle Wallop which whilst almost deserted gave me a fascinating insight in to the history of this oft overlooked sector of the British Army.

 

Perhaps the display I found most thought provoking was the home made IRA mortar fashioned out of a Calor Gas cylinder - such devious/deviant tactics made helicopter transport of troops essential as it did many years later in the Middle East and Afghanistan.

Nearby I stayed the night up a narrow track near Figsbury Ring, one of the area's many hillforts, and right on the boundary of Porton Down. A speedy and efficient appointment at Tesco saw me duly jabbed and the cupboards filled before I headed down to the Solent and parked up in Lee on Solent for a ride along the coast to Warsash where the small passenger ferry links with Hamble. Further down at Gosport I stayed on another P4N recommendation where the council allow overnight stays for £10/24 hours. From there I walked round to Gillicker fort enjoying the maritime traffic including a cargo ship delivering a wind turbine blade, the IoW hovercraft, the Queen Victoria heading to Weymouth for a Covid enforced winter at anchor, assorted car transporters and freighters and rather poignantly the Brittany Ferries ferry heading across to Cherbourg that perhaps in different times I might have actually been on.

A windsurfer was enjoying the last of the light as I settled in for a quiet night.

 

 

 

First thing the following day I was on the bike to the Gosport ferry terminal where I left it locked up, took the short hop across to Portsmouth with good views of our two new aircraft carriers and spent a day mesmerised by the Mary Rose Museum. The sheer volume of artefacts, information and displays was a credit to the team behind this remarkable project but I was still unprepared for the sheer size of the actual ship's hull that has been recovered, preserved and is now presented for all to see. It is a visit to be recommended but does need a full day to itself.

 

 

 

Back at Gosport it was another lovely sunset and a quiet night with just two other vans for company. 

 Moving on I stayed the night above Goodwood Racecourse in the Sussex downs ready to visit the Weald and Downland Museum of Rural Life, an impressive collection of old houses, workshops and other rural buildings carefully rebuilt on a large 40 acre site. In a corner a large barn and adjacent work area are the set for the Repair Shop which was filming its Christmas Special.

 

It wasn't far then to move on to Amberley Museum which focusses more on transport and machinery as well as rural skills and yet again it was a very worth while visit with displays covering public transport, power and telephone communications, rural skills, lime manufacture, brick making and quarrying. The old chalk mine had been used in the Bond film 'A View to a Kill' doubling up as a gold mine above San Francisco and seeing the demise of Grace Jones.

Some of the quarry wagons are still painted in the green of the evil Zorin whose Z symbol is also visible. I took a night on another small certificated site and was grateful for the shelter of the tree belt as a storm blew through. There was no hook up but my small genny purred quietly outside to reinvigorate the leisure battery and provide hot water. The following morning water and waste were dealt with before I continued eastwards.

A walk up to Chanctonbury Ring on a grey afternoon offered great views but I decided to stay in an empty car park at Cissbury ring with the genny running again to give me an idea of its fuel consumption - around half a litre an hour. Later on a large 4x4 pick up with the BiMobil camper pod attached to the tray arrived so I killed the genny for the night and slept soundly as the heavens emptied.The following day was a much brighter affair so I nipped up to the summit for good views to the IoW, Brighton and inland towards London.

Hastings was an interesting place with its castle and priory after which I moved on to the surprisingly busy Birling Gap at the eastern end of the Seven Sisters Country Park.

The eponymous cliffs were a truly spectacular site and I walked beneath them on the shingle beach before heading over the tops for a view of Beachy Head at sunset. The Beachy Head pub allowed overnight camping so I booked for an excellent meal, a couple of welcome pints and the paper in a comfortable environment - all credit to Vintage Inns for this initiative. As van numbers increase I hope even more rural pubs follow their lead as it would be a welcome boost to their trade and ease pressure on  campsites.

Arriving at Dungeness on a stormy day was surreal as it bore more than a passing resemblance to the barren west coast of North Lewis with single storey houses squatting low on a windswept coastal strip.

I overnighted further east but returned on the bike the following day to see more and take a few photos.

The broody nuclear power station sits behind a shingle bank with the old and new lighthouses close by whilst pulled up above the high water mark were numerous fishing boats.

 Laundry was done in Deal as I passed through in wet and windy weather choosing again to stay on a small site for water and power before heading to Canterbury.

 

 Here again all credit to the local authority who have dedicated a section of the P&R to motorhomes for a few pounds a night with a free bus in to the city and water and waste available. Alongside is the Kent Drive In cinema - not something I have seen before and I question the idea of two showings with over 150 cars at each sat with their engines running for two or more hours at a time...

Anyway it did not disturb me and I enjoyed the cathedral the following day. The sense of history attached is brought home by the tombs of Archbishops, the various chapels, the cloisters and the superb stonework both inside and out. The old streets of the mediaeval centre were interesting to explore and I had a quiet night at the P&R with perhaps half a dozen other vans staying.

 

 

More unsettled weather saw me moving on to the Isle of Sheppey staying high on a shingle bank that offered parking between Minster and Sheerness with good views over the Thames estuary. That night 45mph winds blew constantly but the van was warm and dry and the shipping provided much interest.

News of the second English lockdown began to filter through so I decided a retreat to Wales that was about to exit its local fire break might be sensible in due course. Thus a Tesco at Sheerness saw my supplies replenished and whilst I waited to see if a friend needed a lift out of London I moved on to near Chatham only to find the historic dockyards had closed the previous day for the winter season.

However a walk around the extensive marshlands and bird reserve at Cliffe more than made up for it with much of interest at sea, sand and shingle extraction on land and the old Cliffe fort slowly losing its battle with subsidence and regrowth. This area had once been eyed as an alternative to expansion at Heathrow but this now seems unlikely. The RSPB guy seemed happy to lock me in to the large car park overnight which suited me fine and by 09.30 the following morning I embarked on a trouble free journey west and back in to Wales.

Restrictions here ease tomorrow so I will begin a round of bothy inspections, yesterday Jan and I had a very satisfactory day above Abergavenny dealing with a disgusting pile of rubbish left by irresponsible visitors. Huge thanks to her for the assistance and a place to lie low for a couple of days and to Crad and Dawn over at Sennybridge for the same.

A selection of pics sit here.

Moving On

So several months further on and after many changes at various levels it is time to restart the blog.

Life is different for all of us but I still have a passion for travel and have adapted to the new circumstances that prevail and as always prefer to look to the future rather than dwell on the past, mindful that when I do look back over the last 15 years of van life that it has been a rich and varied experience.

With international travel restricted I decided to revisit parts of the UK and explore hitherto unknown areas so in early September headed north initially to Skipton where Craven District Council have an enlightened and welcome approach to camper vans, allowing overnight stays in designated bays of the central car park.

The ticket machine had a mind of its own and resolutely failed to issue the desired motorhome ticket and I ended up with a £15 ticket that entitled me to seven consecutive parking sessions. This I interpreted as allowing me to stay three nights plus the relevant day periods, longer than originally intended but with a flexible schedule I took advantage of the adjacent Leeds to Liverpool canal and cycled back towards Saltaire that afternoon.

A full day took me over the Peninnes towards Burnley with a good pub lunch at Foulridge near the tunnel. The towpath is rough in places so more suited to a mountain bike than tourer but offered fine views on a sunny day.

Another day long excursion took me over Embsay Moor on a superb bridle path before dropping in to Cracoe and passing through Wharfedale past Bolton Abbey to Ilkley with another good lunch at Burnsall where staff and customers were getting used to the new methods of ordering and paying for food. A climb over Ilkley Moor put me back on to the canal for a return to Skipton and the final night of an unexpected but very enjoyable stay there.

I met an old friend in the Forest of Bowland for a good walk above Slaidburn and stayed the night on the quiet road over towards Ingleton.

Moving north again I enjoyed a good walk in the Howgills with extensive views across to the Lakeland fells before finding a quiet spot for the night in the countryside south of Appleby in Wesmorland.

 

 

Dufton provided the starting point for the excellent High Cup Nick, a deeply incised valley with the hard rock of the great Whin Sill key to the formation of this remarkable feature. It was a stunning day and as the village car park was empty on my return I stayed the night and enjoyed a quick pint at The Stag before a quiet and cosy night in.

 

 With a few days in hand before I met up with Mandy I decided to explore some of the Seven Stanes mountain bike trails in Southern Scotland and the Borders so headed initially to Newcastleton NE of Carlisle. I'd managed to get a gas bottle exchanged in Longtown - the huge increase in camper and caravan use in the UK had created a national shortage - and enjoyed a good days ride before settling down for the night on the remote road over to Langholm in a thick fog.

North of Langholm just off the A7 I stayed on a small certificated site for the night to avail myself of the usual services and left for another Stanes location : Glentress near Peebles  and tackled the rewarding red route before staying the night at Innerleithin a few miles east which is one of Forestry and Land Scotland's excellent stay the night locations.

On leaving the following morning I detected a rattle in the exhaust and spotted a cracked joint which would require attention fairly soon. However it did not prevent me from meeting Mandy and her brother for a night at the superb Kelpies near Falkirk and the following day I arranged for ATS at Stirling to take a look. The parts would take a few days to arrive which put paid to our plans to meet up with our friends in Dumfries and Galloway so we decided to return to Glentress and Innerleithin for a good walk, a mountain bike ride and a great route along the Tweed Valley to Selkirk again staying at the stay the night facility.

A return to the Kelpies gave us a memorable ride along the Union Canal towards Edinburgh before we dropped down to the Forth Crossings and cycled over to North Queensferry to get a superb view of the famous Forth Bridge. Our return along the south shore of the Forth to Grangemouth took us through the grounds of Hopetoun House and past Blackness Castle with the oil refinery looking surreal as the skies darkened.

 

The exhaust was done as arranged despite the wrong part being supplied initially - magically the correct one arrived within half an hour which begs the question as to why I had had to wait 5 days initially.

Anyway Mandy had enjoyed an archery session in local woods with her brother and we set off north with the van full for water, food gas and fuel but needing a laundrette as local ones were closed. The garage at Lix near Killin had a self service machine so we loaded up and popped down to see the Falls. Unfortunately on our return the machine had been faulty and the wash failed - we tried the other one only to find it too was faulty and sat for an hour whilst it whirred its way through the programme.

Our base for the night was another stay the night location at the start of the route up Ben Lui after which we returned to the Green Welly service area for a working washing machine before exploring Glen Orchy and watching some kayakers on the falls.

That night we met Pete and Jan at another stay the night spot further down Glen Lochy - it was good to see old friends after so long and we enjoyed a socially distanced catch up.

A glorious day saw us head back to Tyndrum, park at Bridge of Orchy and walk over to Loch Dochard - lunch by the river and a break at the Loch gave us a long but enjoyable day in perfect conditions.

 

 

Friday saw us going our separate ways as we gave Jan a lift to Oban for the ferry to Barra and Pete headed off in search of more Corbetts Loch Arkaig way.

 

 

Oban was bathed in sunshine and busy but not crowded as we passed a couple of spare hours - Jan had kindly bought fresh crab sandwiches but lost hers to a sneaky seagull - before boarding the CalMac ferry for a superb 5 hour crossing. Porpoise tracked the boat as we passed through the Sound of Mull and the Skye Cuillin dominated the skyline as we crossed the Sea of The Hebrides.

After disembarking we drove the couple of miles round to Vatersay using the short causeway and were soon parked up near the Community Centre at Siar Beach.

A local crofter collected £5 as a contribution to the upkeep of the facilities before we walked down to the beach for a perfect sunset.

On the Saturday we were up early to walk over to the abandoned village and return to the van in time to meet Jan with her hire bike. We then set off to ride round Barra, having lunch at Barra airport as a flight took off from the beach and returning to Castlebay in time to catch the fish and chip van that evening. It had been a superb day but as we set off  back to the van a sea fog drifted in creating an eerie atmosphere. Vatersay was still in the sun so we enjoyed another quiet night.

We returned to a beach near the airport for lunch before catching the afternoon ferry to South Uist and camping by Smercleit beach in breezy conditions - a walk on to Orasay before the tide covered the causeway was followed by a quiet night lulled to sleep by the sounds of the sea.

 

From Smercleit we followed miles of sandy but firm tracks through the dunes running parallel to the coast and reached Drimsdale before returning in to a stiff headwind along the island's only real road. The winds were heralding the arrival of a storm so on the Tuesday we crossed to Benbecula on one causeway and to North Uist on another to take a pitch at the Carinish campsite which as a result of Covid guidance was taking self contained vans only. We sat out the bad weather with Scrabble and reading and hoped Jan in her tent was warm and safe back on Barra.

 

Wednesday dawned bright and sunny so wet set off to do a circuit of North Uist passing some lovely traditional black houses, a charming folly and covering a total of 57 miles. The eastern side of the island seemed to be more water than land and we had lunch at a beach that looked to be a perfect overnight stop near Hosta. A second night on the site saw us filled up with water and power as we headed off to Lochmaddy to book our ferry over to Harris, visit the museum and gallery and enjoy a coffee on the decking overlooking the harbour. Back at Hosta we spent time on the beach before another great sunset.

 

We stayed a second night but moved up in to the dunes for the perfect spot and enjoyed a day on the beach before a windy night but with stunning views.

The short crossing to Leverburgh gave us plenty of time to set off from the port and ride over to the pretty church at Rodel before following some of the Golden Road (so called as it had been hugely expensive to build in such difficult terrain). The bikes gave us the freedom to be nosy and we took various side tracks to quiet hamlets and remote crofts such as Quidnish and Aird Mhighe with some good views of seals basking on the rocks.

A night above Luskentyre bay was fine and allowed us to complete the rest of the Golden Road passing more crofts, hamlets and a few very stylish new build properties before we moved down to park by the stunning Luskentyre bay with its vast expanse of golden sands at low tide.

Before moving on we cycled round to the new Community Centre at Borve which has motorhome facilities and then drove to Tarbert and round to Miabhaig for a walk to the eagle observatory further up the glen. 

No luck on that front but we met the keeper with a freshly shot stag in his truck and enjoyed a quiet night with a couple of other vans further down the road.

Tuesday saw us setting off for a tough day starting with the climb back over to Tarbet where a new Calmac ferry terminal is being built and a new whisky distillery is waiting for their first product to mature. We took the road out to Scalpay reached by a substantial bridge and eventually saw signs out to the lighthouse reached by a rideable track. This was an impressive spot with superb views, an eye catching array of buildings and an honesty box for very welcome teas and coffees. The return to Miabhaig ended with a fast descent back to the van but still no sign of the elusive eagles.

Wednesday the 30th of September saw us heading over to Rhenigidale for a coast walk past an old croft to a secluded beach and the start or end of the postmans's walk back to the Scalpay road. A solitary seal watched us as we enjoyed views across to the northern tip of Skye. On Great Bernera we stayed the night at Bostadh with its ancient village and neatly kept cemetery with a sunset enjoyed from a slightly chilly vantage point facing Flodda - as October was approaching we were very aware that life on these windswept islands would be hard work now for many months.

Round on the Valtos peninsula we parked above the beach for the night with a few surfers and on the Thursday took the coastal road to the dead end at Mealasta where during WW2 several hundred troops had been stationed to man the military observation posts. It was a remote place and a brief shower had us sheltering under a solitary boat hull for lunch before we returned north and dropped off to beautiful Mangersta beach. There were some very impresssive eco builds there that blended well in to the scenery and one owner had a quirky sense of humour judging by some of the art installations. Returning to Valtos we were rewarded with an eagle soaring overhead and passed through the gorge delighted to have at last seen such a magnificent bird.

The first day of October saw us setting off on the bikes again but heavy rain persuaded us to turn back, seeking shelter in a small bothy for lunch before a superb rainbow heralded brighter skies. We drove to the closed community campsite for a tank of water before then returning down the Mealasta road to walk the cliff tops, visit a natural arch and admire the impressive sea stacks.

After another memorable night I took laundry down to the store and did a shop whilst Mandy enjoyed the beach and a walk through the valley to meet me. The weather was grey and showery but we still enjoyed visiting the old Norse kiln and mill, a broch and the Callanish stones before spending a very stormy night at the Butt of Lewis lighthouse. 

Stornoway on a Sunday is very quiet as no shops or services open so we were soon away for our final night up at Tolsta where we walked on a huge beach before visiting the Bridge to Nowhere, cleared some mindless litter from the car park and headed round to Stornoway on the Monday morning for a couple of hours before our journey to Ullapool. This was a calm crossing with another sighting of porpoise or dolphin and a visit from the coastguard helicopter adding to the excitement.

From Ullapool we drove to south of Inverness for the night and arrived back in Sauchie in time for another archery session. 

Having been so impressed by High Cup Nic we returned to Dufton for the night, enjoyed a superb lamb pie in The Stag and then walked up to see the remarkable feature on a windy but dry day.

The final night of this relatively short but fun packed trip was spent in Skipton to break the journey and all was well when we returned to Sheffield.

Since then I have been off again but will reveal the details of that trip in the next post.

More than enough photos from this trip can be found here.