The Last Post

Well here we are - almost a year on and we are back in Orewa north of Auckland sorting out the contents of the van, deciding what to take home, what to send on and what to ditch - mostly our now rather threadbare clothes.

There has been nothing we brought with us that we have not used at some stage which is pleasing as we are always conscious of the limited space available - we may not need cold weather gear in Oz but will take some anyway and are already planning to add additional water and fuel storage plus somehow a second spare wheel! Anway this is all in the future so time to recall the events of the last few weeks.

After an inspiring few days around the Cape we headed down the west coast staying at isolated and empty campsites before a weekend in Pahia with Sue and Danny which included an exciting trip on the Mack Attack which took us on a roller coaster journey out to the Hole in the Wall in the Bay of Islands.

Back on the West Coast we visited the remarkable large kauris that are remnants of the once extensive native forest cover - moving and thought provoking and well worth the diversion.

After a day or two on the Pouto Peninsula where we walked on wide empty beaches but missed the ancient lighthouse we visited the Matakohe kauri museum which filled a whole day and was one of the best we have visited.

Back on the east coast we re-visited Tutukaka and then Whangarei before another stay at Uretiti DOC site from where we visited Marsden Point - NZ's only oil refinery explained through an excellent visitor centre.

Finally we returned to Tawharanui headland where the almost sinister predator proof fence enclosed us as we enjoyed a full moon on what was to be our final night in the van.

A slow puncture and a poor forecast encouraged us to head to Orewa a day early where we now sit awaiting the next phase of our travels.

Everything seems to be in place and with luck we will be able to post a more reflective piece before we set off home.

Final few NZ pics are here - some 3000 in total stored and that's after heavy deleting!!

TOPPING OUT

The North Cape has proved to be a wonderfully rewarding way to finish our trip with the warmth of this almost sub tropical area and lengthy spells of sunshine very much appreciated.

Our leisurely pace took us up the east coast with visits to wonderfully deserted beaches, another snorkelling session and some memorably quiet D0C sites right on the beach.

A short break at the excellent Acacia Lodge in Mangonui provided some home comforts before we headed for Cape Reinga itself.

En route the Te Paki dunes were a major highlight with the vast and extensive sand hills stretching out above Ninety Mile Beach where a night at a quiet camp site at Hukatere had been particularly special.

Moving Spirits Bay was memorable for its sense of tradition and meaning but we spent longer at Taputupotu as there were good walks available nearby. A kiwi family who had just embarked on living on the road full time had plenty of advice regarding Australia where they had lived for many years and were keen to learn about the many highlights of New Zealand - Jack and sarah even managed to communicate via their Nintendos!

The walk to the Cape was strenuous but worthwhile following a coast path that dropped to idyllic Sandy Bay with the odd sharp shower followed by hot sun manipulating the view across the Pacific.

Round at the Cape the merging of the Tasman and Pacific created a dramatic maelstrom with huge waves crashing together with the Three Kings Islands in the far distance. The finger post detailing distances to various places was for us quite significant listing as it did London, Tokyo, Bluff and the South Pole amongst others.

The following day we enjoyed a full day's walk out to Cape Van Diemen which felt like the end of the world surrounded on three sides by blue ocean - green lipped mussels the size of cricket balls were collected for tea before the long trek back along the deserted beach.

So we now head south with only a fortnight left on the road - Cape Reinga has been the perfect finale to ten amazing months - time now to get home and see everyone whilst looking forward to more adventures as a new chapter unfolds.

This link will take you to the latest humble photo offerings.

Northland - Winter (ish)

After a relaxing week in Orewa we have headed up the east coast of North Island staying in empty DOC sites and enjoying superb coastal walks under a warm sun as the weather has settled down considerably since June. A slow meander brought us to Whangarei with amazing scenery, memorable bays and remarkable views down across the Hauraki Gulf.

Unable to resist the alluring blue seas and distant islands any longer we booked with Dive Tutukaka for a day across to the Poor Knight's Islands where whilst others dived we enjoyed snorkelling in the clear waters teeming with a vast array of sub tropical fish and marine life. Sarah took the plunge - literally and was a star for having a go - enjoying with the rest of us the feeling of flying as we floated over the sea bed many metres below.

We are now in the picturesque village of Russell and cross to Paihia tomorrow with Cape Reinga our destination for next weekend.

The good weather has been welcome and even the evenings are getting lighter - this week's full moon provided a surreal seascape at Oakura as the gentle swell washed ashore not ten feet from the van.

Photos here - underwater photography is yet another steep learning curve!

Out and About in Auckland

Piha and the vast black sand beaches provided a final dose of wild country west of Auckland before we hit the motorway and arrived in Orewa at the start of a week long high pressure weather system. This enabled us to enjoy lunch in the garden, walks in to town and along the beach and a bike ride round the estuary.

Staying in the house was quite a novelty and we made good use of the usual comforts to chase up the Australian transfer and address some of the tasks we will face when we return home in 6 weeks time.

Tuesday saw us drop the van in to Continental Car Services for a change of timing belt and water pump leaving us the day to catch a train to the Museum of Transport and Technology where an impressive collection of planes, trains and automobiles filled the day. The display of Ed Hillary's crossing of Antarctica using three Ferguson tractors was particularly impressive.

On Thursday we parked up at Devonport to catch the ferry across to Central Auckland enjoying the fabulous panorama of the waterfront shining in the bright sunshine. The Skytower was well worth a visit particularly on such a clear day with a few intrepid souls braving the jump - amazing.

The Maritime Museum rounded off the day with its extensive galleries and exhibits - a sister steam crane to the one moored down at Wellington and modern yachts vied for space with traditional Maori canoes, sailing dinghies and artefacts from the heyday of New Zealand shipping before the road network was improved and cheap flights arrived.

This weekend Sue and Danny return after their trip to Europe and we head north on Monday for our final leg - click here for pics.

West Coast of the North Island in Mid Winter

The wet weather that has followed us intermittently around North Island has largely dissipated to be replaced by cold nights but warm and sunny days - particularly on the coast. After much socialising in the Rotorua area we spent a couple of nights in a self contained and well appointed lodge where the out door hot tub was celebrated with a glass or two of fizz - 'tis a hard life on the road.

Raglan and the coast south were a delight - few tourists venture down the twisty unsurfaced road to Kawhia and we enjoyed the scenic isolation with vast empty beaches.

Here in Waitomo an area famous for its many cave systems we have enjoyed walks around the surface limestone features but resisted the temptation to venture underground.

We now head to Auckland which will be something of a culture shock but should enable us to finalise our onward plans before our final push to the heady sub tropical delights of Northland and Cape Reinga. Less pics than usual here as it is only a few days since we last posted.

East to West to East and back again.

We have criss crossed North Island taking in the Wairarapa, back through Tongariro, down the Whanganui River, around Taranaki and then along the Forgotten World Highway and through Te Urewera to the east coast once more giving us the chance to head around the wild and beautiful East Cape.

Deserted beaches, quiet villages and empty campsites combined with sunny warm weather to give us a memorable stage of our trip. Tolaga Bay with its pier was memorable as was the view from East cape lighthouse with Ohiwa providing excellent cycling around the inlet and lagoons - the shortest day of the year but back to T shirts and breakfasts outside.

Rotorua and its thermal and volcanic sights was remarkable and enjoyed from the comfort of Liz and John's excellent farmstay at http://www.lakeviewheightsnz.co.nz/

A major highlight on a perfect day was the trip over to the volcanically active White Island where water bubbled, sulphurous steam erupted and gas masks were issued -an amazing place to visit with the constant risk of another eruption.

We now head via Tauranga to Raglan for a treat for Sarah - riding and a comfy eco lodge before heading to house sit for a week in Auckland and start bringing this trip to a close.

The van has continued to perform well beyond reasonable expectations and we are both fit and well. Try this link for the latest pics.

North Island And A Touch of Winter

We crossed to Wellington where the Te Papa museum provided much of interest and a puncture late at night in the carpark - solved by replacing two rear tyres the following day.
The Wairarapa coastline was wild wet and windy with the highlight being 200 seals seeking sanctuary on the grassy verges as we drove to Cape Palliser lighthouse.

After enjoying the art deco and maritime aquarium of Napier we headed across to Tongariro for a superb walk on the slopes of snow clad and dormant Ruapehu before heading to the Whanganui River area.

Here we enjoyed the Athene Skyline Trail in good weather - recently it has been a mix of torrential rain and bright sunny days causing flooding and damage around New Zealand with South Island getting some heavy snow rendering areas we enjoyed earlier in the year inaccessible.

Mount Taranaki and the Surf Coast provided more impressive scenery on a grand scale before we took the Forgotten Highway across to Taupo enjoying superb native bush and the Whangamomona Hotel.

At Taupo the 'Craters of the Moon' and Hukka Falls were impressive - the former being steaming vents of volcanic gasses bubbling and hissing away as a result of changes following the constuction of a geo thermal power station.

Te Urewera National Park was a demanding 60 miles of twisting unsealed road that is still very much a Maori heartland - again people living in very isolated circumstances deep in unspoilt bush. It is an undervisited area and provided us with a couple of excellent walks through superb forest scenery.

Finally we have emerged on the East Coast once more and the mixed weather is showing signs of settling down as we head from Gisborne north around the Pacific coast highway.

DOC sites have provided good camping but when it has been wet the lure of power and hot showers has been too great and we also plan to have the odd treat in a bach or cottage during our final 3 months here.

Our visas for Oz and flights are in place with arrangements for shipping the van to be made when we pass through Auckland in early July.

Internet has been limited until today but we hope to post again soon, meanwhile the pics are here